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Magnetic tool holders - good idea, bad idea

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I have been using magnetic tool holding strips to hold my turning tools on a wall rack for years. I'm now just getting back into turning and found my tools are now magnetized and attach themselves to the tool rest.
I don't know if I can demagnetize the tools like you can a screwdriver or not.

Question - has anyone experienced this problem and what are your thoughts on the effect and the subject?
 

john lucas

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You can buy demagnetizers at Radio Shack. I have never used the magnet demagnetizers. I have an electronic one that I've use for years to magnetize and demagnetize my screwdrivers and tweezers for camera repair.
 
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You can demagnetize them easily, using the same method as for your screwdrivers. My question is why bother? The alloy steel seems to shed its grinding dust just fine for me, and I'll take whatever help I can get holding the tool to the rest. Bought my strips about a dozen years ago, and wouldn't be without 'em. Every rack I had built prior to purchase collected more shavings than they did.
 

john lucas

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I'll agree with Micheal on that. I only have one magnetic tool strip but it hasn't bothered me at all having them magnetized. The odd thing is only half of them are magnetized. All but two are HSS so I'mnot sure why some hold the magnetizm and some don't.
 

hockenbery

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I dislike magnetized tools.

I find they do not slide freely along the tool rest.

I get better curves and a smother tool finish when the tools slide freely.
I routinely file and wax the tool rest and keep the tools clean where they contact the rest.

If I have to overcome resistance on the tool rest I don't get a smooth cut on the wood and my surface and curve are compromised.

I find a light touch with the tools give me better results. Magnetic tools don't respond to a light touch for me.

I do use a magnetic holder for my hollowing tips. They never contact the rest and never mangeize the hollowing bars,

happy turning,
Al
 
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magnetized Tools

I don't know if I care for magnetized tools or not.:confused: I'm trying to get back up to speed with my tool control and I think it’s throwing me off. Either that or my hands are just shaking too much.:eek:

Anyone have any suggestions for improving tool control? I know practice, practice, practice. That’s what I'm into, I've gone back to the basic between center exercises.

Any additional suggestions would be appreciated.:)

Cheers
 
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Magnetized tools

1.) I use a magnetic strip on my wall to hold my tools....no sweat.. when I go to use them, I demagnetize with a neat little item (from Rockler, about $2). No problem....do not understand you guys!!!!
 
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$2.00 that's in my price range, I'll check out Rockler and see what they have.:cool2:
 
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Anyone have any suggestions for improving tool control? I know practice, practice, practice. That’s what I'm into, I've gone back to the basic between center exercises.


It's in my tag line. I strongly suggest an overhand grip as the best for keeping the tool on the rest and avoiding those unscheduled inputs as it gets thrown against it. Use the mechanical advantage to swing the working end of the tool into the cut at the proper presentation. You're going to like getting minute movement at the business end for big input at the control end. Then you can begin the push with the stabilization hand if that's what the cut requires.

Underhand grips and pushes rather than swings make you very conscious of chips on or dings in your rest, or perhaps, though I'd say it's more perception than reality, a gram of magnetic attraction masquerading as friction. For those obliged to use underhand grips because they're by God going to use that expensive gouge with the drawn-back wings and are using a tool lean versus a rest ... well, why not pick up that handle above 45 and get yourself some support other than your fingers. Control will increase with every degree as you approach 90.
 

hockenbery

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Eric,
One of the best things to improve tool usage is to turn lots of the same small object. Turn 40 bottle stoppers, 20 Christmas ornaments, 10 boxes.
Magnetism definitely bothers me.

Turning a delicate finial with a tool rest that has nicks or with a tool that doesn't slide freely is virtually impossible.

Turning a thin walled goblet or details on bottle stopper requires moving the tools smoothly. any resistance works against that free movement.

Nicks on a tool rest and a tool that requires force to overcome a magnetic hold will make for poorer quality on delicate work. I also believe it makes for poorer quality on any surface.


just my thoughts,
Al
 
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a small sidetrack

While talking magnetism, how about the magnetic dishes some folks attach to the tops of their headstocks for holding small parts? It looks tempting for holding things like chuck keys and allen wrenches. I wondered if I'd get in trouble with the electronics of my speed control (Jet 1642). Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike Hamilton
 
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Probably no effect, unless the feedback circuitry relys on some Hall effect sensor. I know the Teknatool folks were using optical sensing on the DVR which was sensitive to dust, but I would suspect that even your manual might not have the information you need. Then again, what good is background information when there's an easy answer? Put your parts on the strips on the wall. I do, even though my lathe's mechanical speed.
 
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Magnetism on the Headstock

While talking magnetism, how about the magnetic dishes some folks attach to the tops of their headstock's for holding small parts? It looks tempting for holding things like chuck keys and allen wrenches. I wondered if I'd get in trouble with the electronics of my speed control (Jet 1642). Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike Hamilton


I have a goose-neck work light, which has a strong magnetic base, mounted on the headstock of my PM3520B without any problems so far. I believe the mass of the cast iron headstock disperses the magnetic flux fields. However, I just read that the clicking I hear on power up & down is a relay inside the inverter. So I'm going to pay more attention to the PM's operation for a while.

Cheers, Eric
 
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I use a magnetic dish on the headstock of my 3520B with no problems.

Eric, the clicking noise you hear might be a known problem with the 3520B, and it is related to the key in the drive pulley. I don't have the details to hand, but you can check the Powermatic forum on this site. Something about the key being too short, and the pulley wobbles just a tad, causing the click. I think it is when the belt is in the high speed setting. I mostly use the low range, so have not attempted the fix.

Bob
 
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