Should we do a GoFundMe for Odie? He really does need the Fluke vibration analyzer.
If it's in the cards, I'd rather you do a GFM for a new Robust AB, instead! 😱
-----odie-----
Should we do a GoFundMe for Odie? He really does need the Fluke vibration analyzer.
If it's in the cards, I'd rather you do a GFM for a new Robust AB, instead! 😱
-----odie-----
I'll kick in a nickel. 🙂
Should we do a GoFundMe for Odie? He really does need the Fluke vibration analyzer.
Odie
I understand what you are trying to do, but don't expect that eliminating vibration at the headstock will always mean less vibration at the workpiece. Headstock vibration at a speed might be the workpiece, but could also be bearings, drive belt, etc. In some instances you can reduce the headstock vibration, but it might increase the workpiece vibration. Load does factor in vibration that is seen.
Your tool feed depends on the rpm, if the lathe slows down so should the feed controlled by you. This can be controlled by a cnc machine if you want that. What you propose is the first step in a cnc lathe design. Is this what you want? Stick with a human controlled lathe if you don't. I do not want to rain on your idea but this is what I think this idea could possibly lead to. Personally I would like to remain in the loop as I am sure you also do. That's what makes it personnel. Good luck on your quest for the best vibration detector.
Changed the rubber bands a few times but haven't come up with any improvements.
May well be available in the cnc arena. Conceptually not difficult - a 2 axis accelerometer tied into an existing electronic speed control. Software for calibration of signals and sensor to speed control function, signal conditioning parts, etc.I envision an automatic variable speed lathe that is controlled by the detection of vibrations emanating from the cut of the tool while in progress. It would seem such an automatic speed adjustemt, according to the detected vibration might be possible in this age of computerized electronics.
Hi Odie, I'm intrigued by your vibrometer. Can you help me understand how to attach one, similar to yours, to my headstock? I agree with Clifton. #92 🙂Five years ago, I started this thread, and built my own "vibrometer", thanks to the input here. I'm still using it every day, and on every bowl I put on my lathe. I consider it to supply me with valuable information for finding the best possible rpm for any given piece of spinning cross-grain wood on the lathe. This is a great help in finding the ultimate cut.....a cut that requires the least amount of sanding that is possible. When that objective is met, then the least amount of deflection from a perfect geometry is possible. This is not withstanding that each piece of wood will have natural warping during the course of turning it into a bowl. Depending on the species and grain pattern, this can be minimal, as well as major. This can't be avoided, but the changing of shape, due to aggressive sanding certainly can be minimized!....and, this is the focus of this thread.
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Even though no fixed rpm is perfect, because the act of applying a tool to wood where the resistance to the cut fluctuates, it does get me to the best rpm that can be had. Other sources of detection.....fingers on the bedways, lamps on the headstock, etc., help in determining this ultimate rpm.
I really enjoy following your quest.
Hi Odie, I'm intrigued by your vibrometer. Can you help me understand how to attach one, similar to yours, to my headstock? I agree with Clifton. #92 🙂
Is lathe vibration the biggest concern or is the tool deflecting away from the work twice in every revolution of a flat grain workpiece a bigger problem? My theory is the action of this turning against the grain deflects the tool resulting in micro tear outs in the workpiece. I wonder if using weighted tools in the 50 to 100 pound range might result in dampening the tool deflection resulting in better quality turnings. Of course, you'd have to eat your spinach to get arms like Popeye.
I've noticed tool rigidity in CNC and automatic lathes (and even OT machines) give far better quality turnings than hand held tools. Better quality turnings mean less sanding.
In general a bandsaw’s product is a cut and sawdust. Most turnings produce shaving and a round surface.For sure turning from square to round creates far more dust and shavings than 4 band sawed off corners.
Interesting question!I have no idea if an interrupted cut in wood is hard on woodturning gouges, possibly it prematurely dulls them? But I can't imagine it doesn't have an effect.
Depends on the blank size and weight and the object.bandsawing takes too much time compared to turning.
Or it's just what they find efficient.Along the line of good turning practice I've favored rounding blanks on the bandsaw rather than turning from square to round. In metal turning that's considered an interrupted cut. Interrupted cuts are hard on metal cutting tools. You have a short cutting followed by a bang as the next corner hits the tool. I have no idea if an interrupted cut in wood is hard on woodturning gouges, possibly it prematurely dulls them? But I can't imagine it doesn't have an effect.
For sure turning from square to round creates far more dust and shavings than 4 band sawed off corners.
I suggested this a while ago with at least one poster saying bandsawing takes too much time compared to turning. My thought is it's kinda a macho thing like "I don't need no stinkin' bandsaw".
never would have suspected that. Fascinating.sometimes the best rpm is a faster rpm than where any vibration is.....and, sometimes it's slower.