Has anybody tried Trend Tool Cleaner? (I have some.) Should I use a scrubby pad, etc.? I do have Johnson’s Paste Wax, and have used it in the past. Jus wonder whether there is something better out there.
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Lathe bed lubrication & rust prevention
- Thread starter Russell Karkheck
- Start date
After a thorough cleaning with a Scotch-Brite pad lubed with WD40 and then wiped clean with acetone, I apply a solution of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits with a bit of paper towel. This is wipe-on thickness. The mineral spirits evaporates quickly, and then the surface gets a wipe down with a clean piece of paper towel. Once dry, the coating protects against rust, lubricates, and does not gum up with saw dust. This is pretty much all that I use now for band saw tables, table saw tables, the jointer tables and planer bed. Turning wet wood on the lathe sometimes requires touch up with Johnson’s paste wax to keep things sliding smoothly.
To make the solution, get wide mouth jar, like a salsa jar, and fill it half way with mineral spirits. Take a bar of paraffin (canning wax) and shave it into the mineral spirits. When the wax no longer dissolves, the solution is saturated and ready for use. Most of the time, the solution will be clear, with maybe some flakes on the bottom. If the temperature drops, it may turn cloudy. Simply move it into a warmer area. I keep an acid brush in my jar of mix.
To make the solution, get wide mouth jar, like a salsa jar, and fill it half way with mineral spirits. Take a bar of paraffin (canning wax) and shave it into the mineral spirits. When the wax no longer dissolves, the solution is saturated and ready for use. Most of the time, the solution will be clear, with maybe some flakes on the bottom. If the temperature drops, it may turn cloudy. Simply move it into a warmer area. I keep an acid brush in my jar of mix.
Thanks, Bruce. I really appreciate your taking the time to answer my question. I’ll have to get some paraffin and try that!
I use Fluid Film & it works nicely. You can get it at Lowe’s.
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Johnson’s Paste Wax was the best product in my opinion, but unfortunately it was discontinued several years ago. Chestnut Microcrystalline Paste Wax is a good produc for this purpose. Personally , I would never scratch up my lathe bed with a ScotchBrite pad. If you have a lathe that has a rusted bed. I would use silicon carbide paper on a sanding block and dry sand the bed. Using any lubricant would just create a sludge that clogs the sandpaper, reducing its effectiveness and shortening its useful life.
I still have a two 1/2 used cans of Johnsons paste wax the will last a very long time. I do use the white Scotchbrite pads (1000-1500 grit). Tried other products, but hard to beat Johnsons paste wax.
Any paste wax without silicone will work.
What's wrong with Silicone?
I won't let silicone get anywhere near my shop. Used to do a lot of wooden boat restoration. Once you get silicone on your wood it is impossible to properly glue or finish the wood. Any wood on a boat with silicone calk on it had to be removed and replaced.
Silicone causes “fish eyes” in finish coats
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I just use wd40. Been doing that for 20 years or more.
I forget when (it's easy enough to look up, if you aren't lazy like me), but a while back Fine Woodworking did a very thorough, objective test of a bunch of products. Results were surprising. I have taken the article to heart and now use CRC-3-36 for machine beds, ways, etc.
I haven't found anything as good as GlideCote for my lathe beds (and jointer tables etc.) Works great (it is specifically formulated for this), easy to apply (spray can). If I have to clean, I use WD-40, but I wouldn't rely on that for lubricating the beds.
John Jordan was a proponent of WD-40.
Does anyone know if Minwax's paste wax product contains silicone?
Does anyone know if Minwax's paste wax product contains silicone?
Steven, if you do happen to remember the date of that issue it would be helpful. I get FWW, but not the electronic access.
Has anyone tried Boeshield T-9? I use it on my bike chain, but haven’t tried it on a lathe bed. It seems like it would be a good product to use for this purpose.
boeshield.com
Shop & Woodworking Tools - Boeshield
boeshield.com
I'll be the outcast here. I don't use anything at all on my lathe bed ($7,000 these days). After turning wet or dry wood, I wipe off the ways with a towel or blow it clear with my air nozzle and just leave it at that. It has become stained but remains rust free using this process. As for waxing, I don't. It's probably not much risk, but I want the tail stock to stay in one place and not slide on a too-smooth surface. I do occasionally wax the underside of the banjo to allow it to better slide but that's it.
I've been using Boeshield on mine for many years and am happy with it. I have a few cans around for the shop, bike chain, etc but when I run out of the shop can I think I might switch to regular WD40 based on comments here.Has anyone tried Boeshield T-9? I use it on my bike chain, but haven’t tried it on a lathe bed. It seems like it would be a good product to use for this purpose.
Shop & Woodworking Tools - Boeshield
I turn a lot of green wood so the bed of my lathe develops light rust or tarnish occasionally. I remove this with a scotchbright pad or 200 grit paper after a quick scrape with a putty knife. After that i rub a block of parifin on the bed ways. It does not clog ,get sticky or interfear in anyway and is easy to renew. Quick and inexpensive. Other machine surfaces I buff with a scotch bright pad or steel wool and then apply paste wax. Tree wax is my favorite. Did I mention that I live in Hawaii where rust is as prevelent as termites?
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
I'm also in the mostly-do-nothig crowd. Helps to live in a low-humidity environment. Wet wood or water gets wiped up or blown off. If I forget and get a little surface rust, I just hit the spot with steel wool - or sandpaper and maybe WD40 if I was really delinquent. Dyes and finishes usually I hit with a spray of denatured alcohol and wipe. Cured epoxy or CA is addressed with a razor blade scraper. I rub a candle on the underside of the banjo when it isn't gliding to my satisfaction (same candle gets used on a tool shaft or the tool rest sometimes, too). But basically no preventative maintenance - mostly just reactionary.
Used WD40 on my bed, but it is stainless and doesn't rust. I use the WD 40 for ease of moving the banjo, tail stock and head stock. I tried Tim Mehling's Fluid Film because I had it on hand and have to say the he is on to something. I sprayed it on and the next morning wiped off the excess and the banjo it almost fluid in it's movement. Time will tell which one I stay with.
I’ve tried several of the waxed based spray preventives, like t9 and industrial versions, as well as Dupont chain saver I use on bike chains. They all worked to some degree. In the end, paste wax worked best, and is easier to use, as there is no overspray, and its cheaper. Your results may vary.
Has anyone tried Boeshield T-9? I use it on my bike chain, but haven’t tried it on a lathe bed. It seems like it would be a good product to use for this purpose.
Shop & Woodworking Tools - Boeshield
I have, and really like it. I've standardized on it as a "base coat" on machine tables and such. My process is to apply T-9 then wipe down with a rag. I then apply paste wax in the usual manner on top of that and mostly just refresh the paste wax unless I something happens where I feel the need to do a more thorough cleaning and recoating. My shop is climate controlled these days, but in the past the T-9 made a significant difference in keeping ahead of any rust problems.
Folks considering T-9: Note that it's not recommended to leave on a heavy coat of T-9, as it will tend to thicken up in place. This is actually recommended for long-term storage (think cosmoline, but less messy). For regular maintenance, you want to wipe off the excess.
What do stainless steel owners use to keep things sliding easily? An air-hose?
Tom Albrecht- I have used WD-40 since I got my AB, but after reading this thread, I tried and really like Fluid Film. My AB has a 3HP motor which makes the headstock heavy to move. The Fluid Film worked much better than the WD-40, and the banjo and tailstock are effortless.
Would that be the Red can or the Black can?
Tom- Didn't know there were different products, but mine is red.
Quick update: I tried Bruce Whittaker's method with mineral spirits and paraffin. I like it! Thanks, Bruce!
I am quoting this from another thread, a post response by Odie. I got this bottle of graphite powder and have to say it works way better than any other method I have tried including Boeshield, WD-40, various waxes. All of them work maybe for a day or two and then the banjo gets hard to move again. This graphite powder gets into the pores of the lathe bed and lasts much longer.Howdy Doug......
I'm using a graphite powder, and have made up a little dispenser kit that attaches to the side of my lathe with a magnet. There is a little homemade pad applicator in the kit.....takes less than a minute to refresh the bedways with graphite powder.....banjo slides super easily. I have to do this once or twice a week, and it's very quick to do......
-----odie-----
Graphite / 1 Ounce Bottle / 99.9% Pure Military Grade / 44 Micron Powder / USA | eBay
44 Micron Powder. The item for sale is 1 Ounce (28 Grams) of Graphite (Carbon). Graphite is commonly used a dry lubricant where oils and greases are not ideal. GRAPHITE DRY LUBRICANT. 99.9% Pure Military Grade.www.ebay.com
I think WD40 helps in cleaning using a scotch brite pad or some wire wool, but it won`t last. After working wet wood (almost everyday) I clean the lathe and bag all the shavings( in order not to have a humid environment) and oil the metal parts that are prone to rust. I also rub a piece of Paraffin wax or carnauba in the lathe bed and helps a lot. Some will say that if you wax the bed, the banjo and tailstock won`t lock but in practice that does not happen.
I do as little as possible and am indifferent to a bit of tarnish here and there.
If components like the banjo or rotating headstock stop moving readily I puff some graphite onto the mating areas. If that isn't sufficient due to wood resin build up I spray with a little INOX-MX3 or WD-40.
If components like the banjo or rotating headstock stop moving readily I puff some graphite onto the mating areas. If that isn't sufficient due to wood resin build up I spray with a little INOX-MX3 or WD-40.
I also use CRC-3-36 for rust prevention around my humid garage. It's my preference on the lathe, but I'll use WD-40 if it's handy too. For tools that might sit for a while, including things like spare drive centers, etc., I try to stick with CRC-3-36 because it works well and I have a lot of rust issues otherwise. For the lathe itself, I don't think it matters too much what I use. I vacuum the shavings, blow off the dust, and put a light coat of oil on the ways/banjo/tailstock when I'm done and I've never had rust issues on the lathe itself. The ways have a dark patina now which seems to help resist rust.
WD40 seems to work really well for me. Applied in conjunction with scotchbrite pad.
During a promo I received a tube of Slick Stick from WoodTurnersWonder. I admit I was skeptical, but it has performed flawlessly on bed ways and tool rest. No rust and a smooth, effortless slide.
WD40 for over 40 years. May not be the best on the planet but with 5-10 second application every few days, it is good enough..that is for a cast iron bed. SS bed works but not as well.
I use a scotch brite pad and sewing machine oil, then clean with acetone and apply paste wax.