Jeff O’Quinn

[Jeff O’Quinn]

Hello from Madison, MIssissippi.

I began turning on the Harbor Freight 12” lathe about 6 years ago. Mainly bowls, mugs, cups, and a few boxes made out of glued up layers of cut lumber. Also a few tool handles. I tend to just give them away to family and friends. I have lost all the pictures of my previous turnings many phones ago and have only a few items left lying around the house. Nothing special, but I enjoy making this type of item and my family and friends like the, as well. My favorite part is the final coating to see how the wood grains will pop out. I was hoping to get a table saw soon so that I could blank up some more intricate patterns.

Alas, my lathe motor finally gave up. It’s fried and the local electric motor repair shop said it would be cheaper to just buy another. But when looking at the price of a new one I found that it would likely be more cost effective to purchase a new HF lathe. She had a good run and was a great bang for the buck. HF made sense when I wasn’t sure if I would really take to the hobby, but now I am sure. So with that in mind, I will be in save mode for a good product upgrade, looking at a couple options both new and used.

Also, what forum is the best place to discuss lathes and hardware? I have questions and seek advice.

The big bowl shown here is broken, the cat knocked it off the shelf where it was sitting. Due to the springy nature of the thinner wood, it wouldn’t fit back together. It’s a shame, I liked it.

The smaller bowl was the 2nd piece I made. The first I dropped and it shattered long ago.

The darker cup was my first attempt and everyone liked it so I made many more with variations here and there. The lighter cup was my last piece before the lathe gave out. The glue failed and it’s coming apart at the seam.

I often coat them in Amazing Clear Cast from Hobby Lobby.

 

[John K Jordan]

Hi Jeff! The Woodturning Discussion Forum seems to be where most discuss lathes, ask for recommendations.

I personally think you'll be better off with a non-HF lathe.

1) The biggest question might be what kinds and sizes of things do you imagine turning in the future. That may help determine the lathe size.

2) The second is how limited is the budget. If you already have a good selection of useful tools you have an advantage over starting from scratch.

3) Another consideration is the power requirement where you'll use the lathe - some of the larger, stronger, and perhaps better lathes require a 220v circuit. But many great lathes run on 110v.

It looks like you are primarily turning from glued up boards. That is fine, but at some point you may want to find some solid turning blanks. If you have a decent bandsaw you can make your own. Many people like to turn wet/green wood, easy to get and easy to turn (too easy, IMO). I'm one who prefers turning dry, stable wood so I cut up log sections into blanks and dry them before turning.

It's sad that glue joint separated. What kind of glue did you use? And what kind of clamps? I build from boards often, especially when turning larger things like Beads of Courage boxes. This lets me use kiln-dry wood planks and finish pieces quickly without significant shrinkage and warping. An example, from walnut and cherry:



I cut, mount and partially hollow each layer before gluing, make sure the mounting surfaces are perfectly flat (I use a big sanding stick as per Harvey Meyer) to flatten each mounting surface. Partial hollowing each layer makes the whole thing quicker and easier to hollow when done.

This was the first one I with thick layers. I use Titebond glue with pressure as even as possible (probably used more clamps than I needed!). It's important not to use TOO much clamping pressure or it can squeeze out too much glue and make a weak joint. And make the wood on each layer is not too smooth - the glue needs a little roughness to grab.



Since than I started using a book press with a single large clamp screw instead of using that big mess of clamps.

Big changes in grain orientation at a joint can also weaken a glue joint. Sealing well and protecting from big temperature/humidity swings can help too.

If you have the need to glue end grain to end grain (or nearly the same thing: angled grain to angled grain), consider inserting a thin layer of veneer or thin board with flat grain between the layers. That's what I did here with walnut veneer glued between the thicker sections that all have the grain running vertically. I got this tip from the glue-up professional, Frank Penta!



Sometimes I use epoxy to glue different species together, especially where high strength is important.

JKJ

 

[Chris Fairbanks]

Welcome Jeff!

 

[Jeff O’Quinn]

Hi Jeff! The Woodturning Discussion Forum seems to be where most discuss lathes, ask for recommendations.

I personally think you'll be better off with a non-HF lathe.

1) The biggest question might be what kinds and sizes of things do you imagine turning in the future. That may help determine the lathe size.

2) The second is how limited is the budget. If you already have a good selection of useful tools you have an advantage over starting from scratch.

3) Another consideration is the power requirement where you'll use the lathe - some of the larger, stronger, and perhaps better lathes require a 220v circuit. But many great lathes run on 110v.

It looks like you are primarily turning from glued up boards. That is fine, but at some point you may want to find some solid turning blanks. If you have a decent bandsaw you can make your own. Many people like to turn wet/green wood, easy to get and easy to turn (too easy, IMO). I'm one who prefers turning dry, stable wood so I cut up log sections into blanks and dry them before turning.

It's sad that glue joint separated. What kind of glue did you use? And what kind of clamps? I build from boards often, especially when turning larger things like Beads of Courage boxes. This lets me use kiln-dry wood planks and finish pieces quickly without significant shrinkage and warping. An example, from walnut and cherry:

View attachment 72658 View attachment 72659

I cut, mount and partially hollow each layer before gluing, make sure the mounting surfaces are perfectly flat (I use a big sanding stick as per Harvey Meyer) to flatten each mounting surface. Partial hollowing each layer makes the whole thing quicker and easier to hollow when done.

This was the first one I with thick layers. I use Titebond glue with pressure as even as possible (probably used more clamps than I needed!). It's important not to use TOO much clamping pressure or it can squeeze out too much glue and make a weak joint. And make the wood on each layer is not too smooth - the glue needs a little roughness to grab.

View attachment 72660

Since than I started using a book press with a single large clamp screw instead of using that big mess of clamps.

Big changes in grain orientation at a joint can also weaken a glue joint. Sealing well and protecting from big temperature/humidity swings can help too.

If you have the need to glue end grain to end grain (or nearly the same thing: angled grain to angled grain), consider inserting a thin layer of veneer or thin board with flat grain between the layers. That's what I did here with walnut veneer glued between the thicker sections that all have the grain running vertically. I got this tip from the glue-up professional, Frank Penta!

View attachment 72661

Sometimes I use epoxy to glue different species together, especially where high strength is important.

JKJ

Thank you for the information and response. I use the same type clamps you show here. I believe I was using Grizzley Wood Glue, it seemed to work fine before but maybe I should look further. This is the first one I had separate this way. But no guarantee there wasn’t some operator error.

For lathes - after some thought I have decided to get something serviceable for the time being probably used on fb marketplace and once I get my kid out of high school in 2 more years, invest in something better up to $3k, maybe more. Maybe 16” swing and as high power motor with 110V. I just want something with a bit larger bowl capability and while the 3/4hp motor was a little under power for my use, I think 1hp would be fine.

So for now I just need to get by with maybe even a good midi. There are a few deals in fb right now I will get advice on the other forum.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[John K Jordan]

Maybe 16” swing and as high power motor with 110V. I just want something with a bit larger bowl capability and while the 3/4hp motor was a little under power for my use, I think 1hp would be fine.

You might look for a used Jet1642. These have 16" swing, long bed, sliding headstock, 1hp motor with a VFD for variable speed, reverse, etc. Full size (1/4"x8tpi) spindle. The banjo uses a stout 1" post for the tool rest.

That was the first "real" lathe I got nearly 25 years ago. Used it in three different shops. I kept it as a second lathe in my current shop until I gave it to a friend recently. Excellent machine. Easy to disassemble and move. I'm 75 and getting feeble but I was still able to take mine apart and load it onto a trailer without injuring myself! I liked it so much I bought a second one used from a club member, had both in the shop at one time.

You might get a good used one for $1000 or a bit more, maybe less. They do have a 220v model but I think the 110v fine (and doesn't need special wiring. I've turned everything from tiny miniatures to almost 16" bowls or platters.

For $3k you might find a used PM3520. I found a "b" model for that cost and it came with a bed extension. Does need 220v though so I ran another line from the breaker box.

There are LOTS of other models out there. Many are good. There are almost as many opinions as there are people.
I would personally stay away from a lathe with Reeves drive variable speed.

I never tried Grizzly wood glue. But it's hard to beat Titebond for most applications.

JKJ

 

[Chris Fairbanks]

What ever you do, try to stay away from lathes that use Reeves drives to control the speed. I had nothing but issues when I first got back into woodturning 20 years ago with the Reeves drive on my jet 1442. Good luck!