I've got headstock confusion.

[Mike in CA]

As a very new member, I've very much enjoyed my first two days here, reading as many threads as I can. Taking a slight break at work, I can't believe I'm getting paid to visit here! (for a short while)

I'm confused. I'm a novice turner, using a Jet 1236. When does it become necessary, or conventient, to turn the headstock around 180 and use the short bed. I have an adaptor, like an extra arm, for use in the banjo that would allow me to use the rest at an extended reach, I'm assuming while it's mounted on the short bed.

Second, is it normal to lean half way over the bed to gouge out a bowl under the lip. (leaning way out to the right to get the tool inside on the left) Is there another way.

By turning the heastock off axis, is that considered "outboard turning?"
I have Kieth Rowley's book, I believe he doesn't go into this much at all.

 

[john lucas]

You have already discovered why some people like a swiveling head. You can swivel the head about 45 to 90 degrees and then be able to hollow the bowl without bending over the lathe. That's the reason my lathe has a sliding head.
You can also rotate the headstock 180 degrees and do the same. I think outboard refers to turning anytime the lathe isn't lined up with the tailstock or the bed of the lathe.
the extension you mention is fairly fragile so be careful when using it. It you get a good catch you can break it. Always make sure you have the tool in contact with the tool rest and the bevel rubbing as you cut and you will probably be OK.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Outboard turning generally refers to turning on lathes that have a threaded end on the spindle on the outboard side of the headstock. I think that the term originated from the days when headstocks were fixed in position. Additionally, Many lathes that were set up to do outboard turning used LH threads because they did not have the motors wired to be reversed. With true outboard turning, you have to adjust to the concept of doing things in a mirror image fashion. These days, may lathes have motors directly on the headstock so the whole assembly can be swiveled, in addition to sliding along the length of the bed. I believe that the term used when the head is pivoted so that it is no longer in line with the tailstock is "off-axis" turning (not to be confused with "multiple axis turning" where the axis of the object being turned is changed). When a lathe can be pivoted, there is no particular reason to have an outboard end to the lathe and so the outboard side is usually just a handwheel. I was not aware of a short bed for the 1236 -- are you sure that it not an extension for the bed? Abot leaning over the bed: David Ellsworth sits on the bed of his lathe like riding a horse -- that would require a bigger lathe than the 1236.

Bill

 

[Mike in CA]

To John & Bill

Thanks for the replies.
The "short bed" is actually a short length, less than 6", of 'ways' that reside on the left end, under the handwheel. It's a perminente feature to the 1236. I had assumed the only way to take advantage of it would be to turn the headstock 180. I did not realize it's also possible to use the head at 90 or 45, or some variation. I can imagine that would make using the tool rest a challange.

I'm trying to picture it use now. If I rotate the head, I'll still use the rest on the, now left side of the lathe, and the work will still be rotating counter clockwise. I'll just be able to face it straight on, with plenty of room to move my tool handle out over the right to gouge out under the lip.

I think that's how it works, am I missing anything else.
Thanks again, I'm picking up alot here!

 

[MichaelMouse]

There is another way to work over the ways, and that's to make the cuts with different tools. You can choose those with the form and grind which allow you to cut just below center, and with the gouge nearly parallel to the toolrest. Gives good tool support, too. Some people even use curved rests to gain better tool control. Just remember that wood wants to be cut pretty much across and peeled along the fiber or "grain," down hill. It complains by ripping, catching, pulling against the tool and throwing chips and making dust if it's not being cut as it prefers.

Undercutting the inside edge of a bowl is a bit of a fooler. If you cut down from the rim you're actually picking up the grain("going up hill"). You want to come from under the rim back toward yourself to get the best surface. I use a fingernail gouge myself, where the handle's short enough to maneuver around the extra iron in the way. What you end up with is the classic cove as from spindle turning, where you have to scrape the final point of transition at the bottom of the cove.

If you're after something with an underside parallel to the rim rather than a cove, I'd go with a hollowing scraper or a pointy gouge.