Is this bodark?

[Charlie M]

I've started turning a new wood to me. I was told it is bodark and this one grew near Dallas. However, what pictures I have seen of the bodark wood show a much darker redish orange. This log is a uniform bright yellow inside the sap wood ring. In fact, drilling out the center with a Fostner bit produced a yellow powder that looked just like sulfer.

The log was cut fairly recently, so it makes nice chips with a sharp lathe tool. If it is bodark, is it a stable wood like mesquite that I can go to finish form right away or do I stop at the rough turn thickness and let it dry for six months?

Also looking for suggestions on a good finish for this type wood.

Charlie M

 

[hockenbery]

Charlie,

It looks like Osage Orange called Bodark in the French colonies from wood of the bow. It could be mulberry they look real similar. the mulberry is a bit fuzzier when it is turned.

The Osage limbs have thorns.
I turn face grain hollow forms from Osage Orange. As long as I get an even wall thicknes of 3/16 or so I haven't had any problem other than the normal warping as the wood dries.

I've done quite a few natural edge bowls. I like to take advantage of the white sap ring.

I don't think I've turned any pieces with the pith in. I suspect it would be unusual to not get some small cracks in the pith area.

The bright yellow/ orange will eventually turn a rather nice brown color.
Osage is one of the hardest native woods we have.

Happy turning
Al

 

[Max Taylor]

is this bodark

Sure looks like it to me. By the way, it is spelled Bois 'd Arc. That is my French language lesson for the day, and yes, it is hardddd and beautiful. Leaving the pith in will cause cracking.Cant help with the finishing, Max

 

[underdog]

Bodark is the vernacular way of saying the French "Bois d' arc".

It's also called Osage Orange, Hedge, Hedge Apple, etc.

It is not only related to Mulberry, it's also related to various other trees including the Breadfruit tree and it's relatives.

If you do a Google image search for Osage Orange, you'll see countless examples of the fruit, the tree, and bow staves.

And yes, it's highlighter yellow. I was really amazed at it the first time my chainsaw bit into an old downed log of it one day....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osage-orange

And yes it looks like Osage Orange to me also.

Have fun! It's a spectacular wood that polishes up and really looks ten foot deep.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Looks like Bois d'arc to me. But to answer one of your questions, it is no where near as stable as mesquite and will crack like all get out wet to dry. Especially since you have existing cracks in it. Your best bet would be to turn the cracks out and leave thick. Let it dry (6-12 months) and re-turn. If you want to try to salvage with the cracks in ot, maybe alcohol drying or just leave it thick and let it dry in a paper bag, changing the bag every week or so.

Hard wood, cantankerous.

 

[George Guadiane]

In fact, drilling out the center with a Fostner bit produced a yellow powder that looked just like sulfer.

The log was cut fairly recently, so it makes nice chips with a sharp lathe tool. If it is bodark, is it a stable wood like mesquite that I can go to finish form right away or do I stop at the rough turn thickness and let it dry for six months?

Also looking for suggestions on a good finish for this type wood.

Charlie M

I got some burled Osage Orange (which is what I think you have there), and the tree had been down for some time. I took some (OK, A LOT of) pieces from the stump. Many are over 20 inches in diameter. Some cracked a lot, the rest almost not at all. Everything that I have turned so far has been turned to finish with little to no cracking and little to no shifting... Maybe because it had been dead for a couple of years, and dried out a bit.
The only serious checking I seemed to get was at the burl tops... When they were cut into while turning, they opened up like little baby bird mouthes looking for food, after a fairly short time. Even those cracks were not too bad, I started CA gluing them as soon as I stopped turning them and that kept them from splitting.
I waxed all of the blanks and kept them in cardboard banana boxes, they seem to keep just fine, but they are in a steady moisture and temperature environment.
I would try turning some to finish and some part way... Use the better method for the rest.
Finish: Shellac, oil sanded with Bee's Wax burnished in, water based poly all have worked well for me.

 

[Hugh]

As everyone has said already - Osage Orange. Makes everything in your shop turn yellow from the dust - especally when you cut a bunch on the bandsaw. Fun stuff to turn. Hard, but cuts nicely. It will turn a nice brown color when exposed to UV light. So try to keep the finished product out of the direct sunlight. Krylon has a UV block that comes in a spray can. Not sure how well it works - but I spray my vessels with it before I put on the multi coats of Deft. Makes great tool handles, etc. I would cut away the cracks - I think they will continue through the piece as it drys. Try a little CA glue on the pith in the bottom or drill and plug. Have fun.
Hugh

 

[Charlie M]

bodark - osage orange

Thanks for the comments and suggestions on the new-to-me wood. This chunk I hollowed out yesterday is already showing new shrink-split signs. I flooded the ones showing this morning with CA. I'll see how far this goes.

Then I'll probably use a lot of the remaining log chunks to make smaller accent pieces for other woods.
Charlie M

 

[Al Neighbors]

Charlie (hope I spelled that right), I don't know where you are, in Texas. I'm in the NW, in Childress. I reckognise that chunk of wood like it's related to me. I cut and turn a lot of Bois d'Arc.
Green, if you turn it thin, with no pith, it'll dry and warp, but it shouldn't crack... much, if any. I rough-turn most of mine, and soak the roughs in soap solution for a month. Then I dry it in a refrigerator/kiln, and return it in about 5 or 6 months. Warps a little, rarely cracks.
Cured, it's hard as heck, but it still turns nice with sharp tools. But cured end grain will require smaller, sharper cutters than side grain, especially if you're turning deep across the toolrest.
I've finished it with: Lacquer; 25/75 Lacquer wash; Danish Oil; Tung Oil; Minwax Wood Conditioner; and no finish. And Lemon Oil on tool handles. All of these with buffing. It's all beautiful. Gets darker with age and exposure to UV light.

 

[Charlie M]

Al,
I'm in Benjamin, which is about 80 miles south of you. This coming Saturday, I hope to drive the 120 miles to Lubbock for the South Plains Woodturners meeting. I have not had a chance to make a meeting in several months and so far (knock on wood ) nothing appears to be getting in the way this time.

Charlie M

 

[Carole Valentine]

Charlie,
I have been told that one way to tell if it's Mulberry or Osage is to put some of the shavings in water. Supposedly, Osage will turn the water yellow while mulberry will not. Have been meaning to test that, but just never get around to it.

 

[Hugh]

Osage Orange chips and sawdust used to be used for fabric dye. Some may still use it. I do not know what would "fix" the color after it has been dyed though?
Hugh

 

[Charlie M]

Charlie,
I have been told that one way to tell if it's Mulberry or Osage is to put some of the shavings in water. Supposedly, Osage will turn the water yellow while mulberry will not. Have been meaning to test that, but just never get around to it.

That is interesting! I've experience with mesquite stains as my concrete shop floor is well patterned from mesquite sawdust and chips that got wet. I went out and tried this test. The chips and sawdust sank immediately and after a few hours soaking, the water has taken on a yellow tinge. So, most likely the wood is Osage Orange assuming the tale about Mulberry is really true.
Charlie M