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Down the rabbit hole of multi-axis work, came across the multiple conjoined hollow forms by Hugh Mckay. I can see how the individual voids can be hollowed out on a lathe but it would seem most of the exterior forms have to be carved. Is there some turning magic that my small brain is missing?
tripot
teapot
 
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Location
Traverse City, MI
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www.lylejamieson.com
Down the rabbit hole of multi-axis work, came across the multiple conjoined hollow forms by Hugh Mckay. I can see how the individual voids can be hollowed out on a lathe but it would seem most of the exterior forms have to be carved. Is there some turning magic that my small brain is missing?
tripot
teapot
You have it correct. Hugh hollowed the inside on the lathe multi axis and carved the outside. He did the outside on the lathe too as a holding device and had rotary cutters on a platform and used the lathe to rotate the piece by hand to rough them out. Outside of course also multi axis. Here is one of my multi-axis non-figurative pieces I did after I had worked with Hugh. 18 inches high hollowed to 1/4-3/16 inch wall thickness. 1712584037563.png
 
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Thanks, Lyle, that makes sense and is very helpful. Can I assume you do the exterior first?

Is Mr. Mckay still creating art? I understand he moved from wood art to glass casting.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
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Location
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www.lylejamieson.com
Thanks, Lyle, that makes sense and is very helpful. Can I assume you do the exterior first?

Is Mr. Mckay still creating art? I understand he moved from wood art to glass casting.
Yes, Hugh is mostly working with glass sculpture last I heard he does not turn much anymore. It is an inside-out process. The inside shapes need to be done first while you have waste wood around to manage the multi axis hollowing. I have developed a template process to follow the shape I want with my laser system. Even with that aid, it is a long patient process to make pleasing shapes inside-out. Some of my torso sculptures take 3 to 5 months. With the inside turned, the outside is carefully carved to a uniform wall thickness. You cant cheat too much and leave thick wood in there, it will likely crack. See my web site gallery for more examples.
 
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Again, thank you Lyle. Using a template and laser is such a great idea. I was aware of your multi axis sculptural work but did not until recently give any thought to the pieces being hollow. When hollowing vessels from green wood after first shaping the exterior I have found I have to work fast or wrap/bag/seal the piece between sessions to avoid cracking. Does working from the inside out give you more leeway in that regard? This makes me wonder how carvers working in the round with solid timber typically deal with this issue.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
117
Likes
404
Location
Traverse City, MI
Website
www.lylejamieson.com
Again, thank you Lyle. Using a template and laser is such a great idea. I was aware of your multi axis sculptural work but did not until recently give any thought to the pieces being hollow. When hollowing vessels from green wood after first shaping the exterior I have found I have to work fast or wrap/bag/seal the piece between sessions to avoid cracking. Does working from the inside out give you more leeway in that regard? This makes me wonder how carvers working in the round with solid timber typically deal with this issue.
Only in the turning world is the need or desire to work without cracks. Wood sculptures that are bigger that 4-5 inches thick will end up with cracks. Yes, it is better when turning green wood to do it all in one session. I spend a lot of time in my Bowl Basics DVD talking about green wood handling, John Jordan has an entire DVD dedicated to green wood.
 
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