Help with a Sthil chainsaw model

[Tom Lewis]

Every time the subject of chainsaws comes up Sthil has a large devoted following on this forum. I have used Poulans for the last 15 years or so, but am thinking about getting a Sthil when my present Poulan gives out.
The problem I have is all the different Sthil models to choose from.
I like a 18" long bar and heat my house with wood so I do a lot of cutting each year.
Those of you who have Sthil's, which model do you recomend. Thanks, Tom

 

[Mjonesrdg]

Chainsaw selection

I highly reccommend that you talk to your Stihl dealer and tell him what you will be doing with the saw. The choice made will depend upon the aswer to a number of questions.

I have an 044 (older model) with an aftermarket aircleaner and a 9 pin drive sprocket that will buck a 20" diameter oak (FAST)with a minimal effort on my part.

I have a new 025 with the tool-less chain tensioner and EZ start that is so sweeeet, that I use it for all of my trimming to make blanks...regardless of the diameter or species.

For cutting firewood...anything more than 2 cords per year...and I'll be running 'Old Betsy" for falling, bucking, limbing and halving rounds. You'd want at least the 036 magnum for efficiency.

Find out what saw fits your needs, and buy the next biggest one. No one ever seems to complain about a saw that a little too big, while many will complain about the saw being too small.

The most important part of happy cutting will be your learning about chain, and how to properly sharpen it.

Hope this helps!

 

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Tom, I like you used a Poulan before getting my Stihl. After a lot of research and a good long talk with my dealer I chose the MS260 with the adjustable oil pump and decompression valve. The saw is lightweight and has the metal bottom end. If you get the models with plastic and anything happens like using the wrong gas you won't have to scrap the saw. It is a professional model that a number of tree services in our area use and can put up with a beating. Hope this helps.

 

[Dario]

Look at the MS280 (54 cc) and see if you like it. I personally won't buy a saw with less than 50 cc displacement (unless it is a climbing saw). I believe the MS260 is 50 cc but though you can put an 18" bar on it, it might be over its bar range for optimum performance.

One thing you might want to know is that the smaller Stihl saws are (mostly) no longer made in Germany. Their bigger professional saws are still German made. While MS440 (70 cc) is my favorite, the fact that it is still made in Germany made it more so. It is a beast of a saw though and heavier. It does make up for faster cutting though esp if you handle big pieces.

Good luck with your choice.

 

[Scott Blackman]

Another difference in the models is the mid-range vs. professional. I believe in the professional version, it adds the anti fatigue dampening. If your planning on running for longer periods, you might want to factor that in.

I have a MS361 and 20" bar, with enough power to drive a 24". No regrets. Starts very easy, and comfortable.

I don't think you'll be unhappy with a Stihl.

Check out the site for a the models www.stihlusa.com


Scott (Frostyford)

 

[C Edward Moore]

Scott is RIGHT!

You just got a good suggestion from Scott. Get the MS361 with a 20" bar and you will be a happy camper.

I feel an obligation to mention that someone who took our advice and got the 361 made an interesting first cut. He applied some downward pressure , cut the log in half, and kept going right through his saw trestle, also cutting it in half. He admitted being impressed with his new saw.

 

[Scott Blackman]

It's a great saw...Get a sharp chain and it's like butter.

Of course, my only comparison was a 16" homelite, that when I recieved it, was told it didn't like to start..."spray starter fluid into the chamber". Man was that saw abused before I got it... I just threw it around trying to start it.

Scott (Frostyford)

 

[MichaelMouse]

The wonderful thing about dealerships is that you don't have to get your information from some pimpled and pierced, grammar-challenged "associate," but can deal with someone more knowledgeable. I suggest you see the dealer and remind him/her that you do heat with wood, and are experienced in the use of a chainsaw. Should get you a response somewhere in the middle, and with something besides a training chain.

If you're going to fell and limb your requirement will be different from just bucking delivered cordwood. I often wish I had a shorter bar when limbing. For ripping turning stock it would be nice to have a bar length beyond the capacity of the lathe so you wouldn't have to bury the nose in the block. It would also be nice to have a skip-tooth chain, but with dry wood or medium-dry hardwood, that can be a jarring experience when crosscutting. From your location, it would seem that hard wood will not be much of a problem. Talk to the dealer, s/he will have to look at your angry face if you end up with something unsuited.

I've got a Stihl with a 20" bar, semi-chisel chain, and from the homeowner range - 029. Enough displacement for what I do, which is buck about 10 full cord of hardwood a year and clean up the woods and grounds. It's the one my dealer recommended as the replacement for my 032 when its magneto died 10 years after the saw ceased to be made. Swapped for parts and some cash from me, and got this one.

 

[waltben]

I've three Stihls, with 18", a 20" and 25" bars. The smaller one is a 250 with the easy start feature that my dealer talked me into about three years back, and the 20" is a 260 (not the pro version) that I picked out myself. The two actually weigh very close to the same (I'm 63, so that means LIGHT!), and I've come to really like the 260 more. It has more than enough power to pull the 20" bar and 3/8" chain through oak and is a bit easier to maneuver since it's physically slightly smaller than the 250. If you're going to cut a lot of wood, you might consider the 260 Pro version, but I'm certain either will last you a long time (just like my 20+ year old Poulan did before it died and I switched to Stihl).

 

[Bill Pottorf]

Tom, I definitely agree with Scott, Ed, Michael and those who support the 20" bar. I also have the MS361 with the 20" bar and am really glad that I went for that. I have even thought of getting the 24" bar but have not for the time being. If you are planning on getting the Stihl, get the saw you need the most. I think that you need a bar that cuts turning blanks for the size of lathe you have. I have a 24" throw but am happy so far with the 20" bar. I don't turn too many blanks larger than that. When you are harvesting the wood for turning, it is much easier to make just one cut across the log rather than have to cut from both sides all of the time. The MS361 has ample power and the ease of starting with the decompression button. It is a really nice - but more expensive - Stihl saw. You would not be sorry.

Bill

 

[Donna Banfield]

We have 3 Stihl chainsaws. The first one was the Stihl 460, with 2 bars; a 20" and and 36". We bought the Stihl 460 when Dave's Sachs Dolmar finally bit the dust after nearly 20 years. Well, it didn't really bite the dust, we gave it to his brother, who only needed it to cut a few times a year. Dave simply got chainsaw envy when another woodturner friend showed up with his Stihl 390.

About a year later, the same friend showed up with his 'limbing' chainsaw, the Stihl 170. I used it to rough out some blanks for the lathe, and commented on how much I liked that saw when compared to my Husqvarna 141. Dave was also using it to limb trees -- we're building a post and beam barn and felling our own trees for the beams.

Four months later, I was Christmas shopping for Dave and remembered how much he liked the MS170. Called the friend who owned the first one, picked his brain, and then drove to a dealership and bought the saw, carrying case, extra chains, and winter bar oil. Apparently, Dave remembered the same thing, because there were TWO MS170's under the tree that year. So we now have a pair of MS 170's. And I couldn't be happier!

 

[Mr. Don]

Saws

TEN DASH FOUR on the Stihl....go with the longer bars when given a choice.....when you are cutting 2+ cords a year plus "shop wood"....the extra reach of those bars will save your back in the long run!!! Plus...plan on sharpening your own chains....it costs an arm and a leg to bring them to a shop!!! I use a Dremel setup...works great in moderation.

 

[hazard]

I have a stihl 044 and 066. The 044 was bought for my granberg chainsaw mill with a 20" and 36" bar. After a year of milling I decided it was time to upgrade to something will more power. I use the 044 for everyday cutting when I am in chainsaw shape. I am a small guy at 165lbs and cutting with this saw for 4hrs straight kills me. I really don't like cutting over my head with this saw.

I break the 066 out when I am sawing big stuff but otherwise it stays on my mill.

I grew up using a older stihl 026(80's model) and I loved this saw. Only problem with it was it either the chain ran all the time or the saw died. When this got really old my father got a stihl 025. I don't recommend this saw. Way underpowered for anything besides cutting 1" branches.

This winter I am thinking of getting the stihl 260pro. Almost as expensive as what I paid for the 044 in 1996.

I have used stihl 029 and 031 which were great saws for say stuff under 10" but if you are planning on cutting bigger stuff I would have more power. You will never regret it.

I also recommend sharpening your own chains until you ruin the points on the teeth. I sharpen mine with a hand file without a guide. 5 pulls or pushes per tooth. Make sure the teeth on the file are going away from teeth on the chain. I flip the file over when I sharpen the teeth away from me. Not sure if that makes sense.

If you can't tell I am a stihl fan. I have had the 044 since 1996 and without any problems. It has never been serviced. My only complaint is that it gets some vapor lock with I start it after it is warm. Hard on the fingers. With cutting and milling I probably have 200-400hrs on it. Not ever sure anymone. The 066 has a few hundred hours on it without problems.

Chris