• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Jim Hills for "Journey II" being selected as Turning of the Week for May 6th, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Glues

B

Bill W

Joined
Apr 13, 2005
Messages
1
Likes
0
I'm new to woodturning and would like to know what types of glue to use in glue-ups?. Can a person use the fast drying Cyanoacrylates or use the slower glues like Elmers?

To give you a clue as to the projects I am interested in turning would be staves to create a bowl. I hope this is enough info to describe my purpose.

Thanks
 
R

roger dunn

Joined
Feb 15, 2005
Messages
18
Likes
0
Location
Shine, Washington
glu

Bill,
CA glue might not give you enough 'open' time to position and 'clamp' your staves. I've found Titebond II to work well for segmented turning. It might 'creep' on you so get really tight fits.
good luck
Roger Dunn
 
R

RSetina

Joined
Apr 16, 2005
Messages
8
Likes
0
I am new to the forum and was just browsing and come upon your question. Great site by the way. I am new to turning too. I have only turned 3 segmented bowls so far but everyone has been impressed with how they turned out thankfully.
I use Titebond II also. One segmented glue up took so long to put together, 18 pieces, I asked a Rockler employee if there was something that wouldn't set as fast and he suggested Titebond III. It gives you about a half hour to get put the pieces together he said. Good luck with you turning. :)
 
B

Bob Hadley

Joined
May 15, 2004
Messages
118
Likes
10
You might try a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue or Titebond's version of same. It is slow setting and doesn't skim over like yellow glues.

Your joints have to be close to perfect for Poly glues though, otherwise any gaps will not be bonded despite the presence of the cured glue "foam" in the void. But clean and tight joints are also a requirement for yellow glues to be reliable. If the joints are sloppy epoxy is the only glue that will provide reasonable adhesion.

I've turned several poly glued projects and you don't notice the glue line when cutting. But I suspect that is more a function of the tight fit and thin film of adhesion than glue rigidity. For sure it is easiest to turn away the squeeze-out from poly-type glues than any other.

Perhaps the only caveat is it may leave a visible dark line on blond woods like maple and birch. In that case you may want to use something else.

BH
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top