friction polish for bowls.....Mylands/Shellawax

[Jeff Gilfor]

That's interesting. My original recipe for FP had me adding carnauba wax, then I tried without, once I started doing the Beall Buff thing. Seems to give me a better finish, but it's only been a year, so the jury is still out.

Have been experimenting with other additives as well; poly for instance. Also testing a spirits based friction polish with shellac, tung oil, and spar varnish. Even tried an acetone, tung oil, and poly mix for hand rubbing (actually liked that quite a bit).

I am obsessed with finishes.

 

[Mark Mandell]

When I used carnauba and other wax finishes (carvings and spindle turnings) I found that it was easy to get too much on the wood, so my personal rule was "less is more", especially when it involved open pored woods. A thinner, more liquid preparation was easier for me to apply evenly and prevent excess getting built up in details and pores. I don't use a power buffer on any turnings.

 

[Bill Boehme]

...... stupid Deft people I've had to switch brands.....

I can't tell any difference in the Deft spray lacquer since the company was acquired by PPG Industries. Deft had a very strong presence in the aerospace finishes market and that is what attracted PPG. The Deft retail spray lacquer finishes are still being manufactured in the same plant with the same formulation as far as I can tell.

 

[Bill Dalton]

I can't tell any difference in the Deft spray lacquer since the company was acquired by PPG Industries. Deft had a very strong presence in the aerospace finishes market and that is what attracted PPG. The Deft retail spray lacquer finishes are still being manufactured in the same plant with the same formulation as far as I can tell.

It's just hard to find around here, central Florida, and I'm lazy about tracking them down. Besides then I would have less to whine about. 🙄

 

[Bill Boehme]

It's just hard to find around here, central Florida, and I'm lazy about tracking them down. Besides then I would have less to whine about. 🙄

For a short while it seems to be in short supply, but Ace Hardware stores carry it. I think that Home Depot doesn't because of some agreement with other paint suppliers.

Lately, I have switched to using a pre-cat lacquer in a rattle can that a former member of our club, Leon Novikoff, used in his custom furniture business for on site touch up work. I think that it works better than the retail rattle can lacquers that I have tried. The cans were labeled Novikoff lacquer and our club continues to order cases to supply our members who prefer it over other spray lacquer.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

It's just hard to find around here, central Florida, and I'm lazy about tracking them down. Besides then I would have less to whine about. 🙄

Try Amazon . I got 3 cans for less than $7 each. This was just last week

 

[hughie]

The Ubeaut range of products are available in the US but were originally developed for local Australian wood as the USA products were at the time few and far between. The inventor of the Ubeaut range is an ex woodwork teacher and runs one of the most successful forum site on the net for wood worker, metal worker etc and has written a book on finishing.
I agree with the comments on MSDS's they only list the dangerous components and any propriety components or full recipe will rarely be on the MSDS forms.
I have used the many of the products from the range and have found them to be good products and do what they are supposed to do. But I can see as a dedicated face plate turner there can be problems. How do you turn or finish the bottoms of your bowls? As I have found you can apply the friction polish in two goes where you unable to get right around in the first go.

 

[Odie]

The Ubeaut range of products are available in the US but were originally developed for local Australian wood as the USA products were at the time few and far between. The inventor of the Ubeaut range is an ex woodwork teacher and runs one of the most successful forum site on the net for wood worker, metal worker etc and has written a book on finishing.
I agree with the comments on MSDS's they only list the dangerous components and any propriety components or full recipe will rarely be on the MSDS forms.
I have used the many of the products from the range and have found them to be good products and do what they are supposed to do. But I can see as a dedicated face plate turner there can be problems. How do you turn or finish the bottoms of your bowls? As I have found you can apply the friction polish in two goes where you unable to get right around in the first go.

Hi Hughie.......

Thanks for your input to this thread. For now, I have a small amount of Mylands friction polish and some Dr. Kirks EEE crème to try out. I'm currently working on a Nigerian Movingai (spelling) bowl with outstanding fiddleback figure, and I don't want to experiment with friction polish on this piece. I'll pick out a plain grain piece of wood to test out the friction polish......soon, I hope! If things look good, I'm not opposed to getting the more expensive Ubeaut products, but I want to see how this goes before committing.......

Has anyone used a friction polish over a Danish oil base? I believe the label said something to the effect that an oil based finish could be used underneath the FP......not sure how well that would work. I usually apply Danish oil after completely finishing the bowl and it's been removed from the waste block, and foot turned. This would require putting on the DO while still connected to the waste block. It is my usual procedure to completely sand a bowl for finishing, part the bowl from the waste block, and then completely finish turn the foot using Jumbo Jaws on a Oneway Stronghold chuck. It would be my preference to not alter my methods/procedure to accommodate friction polish......we'll see how it goes!

Thanks to everyone else for the discussion here, as well.......😀

ooc

 

[Jeff Gilfor]

I have used various brands of friction polish over oils (tung, BLO, and walnut). Also, I have applied (and currently am playing around with) a varnish blend over shellac and tung oil friction polish for some pieces that require a more rugged finish. All of these have been compatible.

I do not use Danish oil, but I'm gonna' go out on a limb and guess that, since it is simply a mixture of oil(s) and varnish, it should be compatible with any shellac-based friction polish. I personally do not like the creme friction polish that U-Beaut makes as, for me anyway, I can't blend different areas together as well as with a liquid formulation. That makes doing anything that requires several sections to be finished separately (like larger items), difficult if not impossible to be made to look seamless. Could just be me though.

 

[hughie]

Hi Hughie.......

Thanks for your input to this thread. For now, I have a small amount of Mylands friction polish and some Dr. Kirks EEE crème to try out. I'm currently working on a Nigerian Movingai (spelling) bowl with outstanding fiddleback figure, and I don't want to experiment with friction polish on this piece. I'll pick out a plain grain piece of wood to test out the friction polish......soon, I hope! If things look good, I'm not opposed to getting the more expensive Ubeaut products, but I want to see how this goes before committing.......

Has anyone used a friction polish over a Danish oil base? I believe the label said something to the effect that an oil based finish could be used underneath the FP......not sure how well that would work. I usually apply Danish oil after completely finishing the bowl and it's been removed from the waste block, and foot turned. This would require putting on the DO while still connected to the waste block. It is my usual procedure to completely sand a bowl for finishing, part the bowl from the waste block, and then completely finish turn the foot using Jumbo Jaws on a Oneway Stronghold chuck. It would be my preference to not alter my methods/procedure to accommodate friction polish......we'll see how it goes!

Thanks to everyone else for the discussion here, as well.......😀

ooc

I think Odie go with what your familiar with and leave off the new finishes and use them on run of the mill stuff. I have used DO under many finishes successfully the key is to make sure its thoroughly dried out on the surface and for me this has taken several days. Although never friction polish, sorry.

 

[Odie]

I think Odie go with what your familiar with and leave off the new finishes and use them on run of the mill stuff. I have used DO under many finishes successfully the key is to make sure its thoroughly dried out on the surface and for me this has taken several days. Although never friction polish, sorry.

Will do, Hughie.......

I'm not dissatisfied with my usual finishing methods......just looking for some alternative options.......😀

ooc

 

[Jeff Gilfor]

I occasionally use the tried and true jam chuck method for finish turning oddly shaped items. I have a few of them, of various sizes, in my cabinet, each attached to a faceplate.

These are great for trying out new finishes! When I'm done testing, I simply cut away a thin layer and have my nice clean jam chuck ready for another test or project.

Beats screwing up a turning.

 

[Odie]

Update......

I decided to try out the FP over some DO this morning......

There is some shine to the FP, but left a little streakiness in the result. The bowl is a piece of Redwood with slight burl figure. Redwood soaks up the finish like a sponge, so not sure if I'll have better results with other species. So far, it looks promising, but I'm going to try to remove the streakiness with some EEE on the Beale buffing wheel with this one.

You can see the FP has a little better sheen than these three other bowls that have yet to be buffed. They all have just the DO applied, at this time.

Quilted maple, Honduras Rosewood, curly Movingui, East India Rosewood, Redwood

Pictures take a couple hours ago.......

ooc