Food safe finish for utility bowls

[Cary Hulse]

Hi everyone.
New here and relatively new to turning. Been turning for a few years on an old Delta from the 1930's, mainly in trial and error mode. Trying to learn what I can to improve.

Wondering what folks would recommend for a workhorse finish for basic utility bowls. Looking for something food safe and good for daily use bowls around the house.
I've seen many mentions of "Tried and True" but realizing they have multiple products. From their site, it sounds like any might be good for bowls, but wondering if either the Danish Oil or the Original would be better (meaning easier to use/apply and holds up better with general use). Or is there is something else y'all would recommend?

Thanks in advance

 

[Jaramiah Severns]

There are many threads on this that will come up if you search the forum, but some common options are Danish oil (Tried & True is my preferred brand) and walnut oil (Mike Mahoney makes a great version).

 

[Mark Fairchild]

There are many threads on this that will come up if you search the forum, but some common options are Danish oil (Tried & True is my preferred brand) and walnut oil (Mike Mahoney makes a great version).

Ditto

 

[Cary Hulse]

Thanks for the replies. So Tried and True Danish Oil is preferred over their "Original" finish?

 

[Brian Gustin]

Hi everyone.
New here and relatively new to turning. Been turning for a few years on an old Delta from the 1930's, mainly in trial and error mode. Trying to learn what I can to improve.

Wondering what folks would recommend for a workhorse finish for basic utility bowls. Looking for something food safe and good for daily use bowls around the house.
I've seen many mentions of "Tried and True" but realizing they have multiple products. From their site, it sounds like any might be good for bowls, but wondering if either the Danish Oil or the Original would be better (meaning easier to use/apply and holds up better with general use). Or is there is something else y'all would recommend?

Thanks in advance

Ive used Tried & True products and I like them a lot. They work very nicely for bowl finishes (where they should be food safe) - Tried and True Varnish is, if you read their website info, a polymerized linseed oil with a Pine Resin to give it a little more hardness and shine - Tried & True Original is a mix of the same Polymerized Linseed oil and natural Beeswax - This stuff is a great top finish, but not necessarily conducive to adding other finish over top (due to the wax content) and finally the Tried & True danish oil is just pure Polymerized Linseed oil - Of the three, Danish oil will have the quickest results from the time it is finished to the time it is use-ready - Original can take a week or two for *each coat* to fully cure , and depending on how thick you coated it in the first place, possibly longer - The thinner you coat them , the quicker the cure so, multiple thin coats will result in a cured finish a lot quicker - and by "Thin" I mean barely enough to dampen the wood - if you slather on a whole bunch, it is way too thick (A pint can can finish several hundred bowls - My original pint can, which I STILL have and haven't used up yet, has finished over 100 small to medium bowls to date)

A lot may depend on how patient you can be to present a finished bowl - If you don't consider it a problem to lay on a thin coat (and buff it out, and gently roughen surface with scotch-brite pad equivalent to 4-Ought (0000) Steel wool (I'd rather not use steel wool on wood) once a week over 4 to 6 weeks (4-6 coats) before calling a bowl "finished" , then Tried and True may suit very nicely, but if you need a "one and done" finish then probably a commercial walnut oil, salad bowl finish (or no finish at all - Antique bowls never HAD a finish applied to them, it was just the raw wood, you can get a surprisingly nice polish and sheen by using lathe shavings as a final "sanding" buff/burnish) might do better for you. All really depends on your level of patience (and whether you can convince someone an "unfinished" bowl is finished.. although one could just as easily apply some Mineral oil from the drug aisle of your local dollar store - it is sold as a laxative - and use that as a "sorta" water-resistant (there ain't no completely waterproof finishes for wood, unless you count epoxy resin, maybe)

There really ISN'T any good reliable finish that holds up against kitchen use (and washing) - it eventually needs maintenance (aforementioned mineral oil, or use beeswax or canning paraffin or a combination of those, or re-coat with more tried & true, for example) Most wood spoons (even the cheap ones you find in dollar store) have NO finish at all to them for that reason - a coat of oil or wax can help keep it from absorbing food stains and odors, if rinsed right away , but if left to sit in dirty dishwater or used saucepans, etc (and for bowls, leaving leftovers to sit in them for extended periods) , no matter what finish (even a varnish or polyurethane) - the food odors and moisture (and colors) will eventually absorb into the wood itself.... So Wood utensils and bowls are quite useful, can be nice to have, but they DO require rather abit more maintenance effort than your typical modern kitchenware.

 

[Jaramiah Severns]

Thanks for the replies. So Tried and True Danish Oil is preferred over their "Original" finish?

Correct. That’s my preference for utility pieces.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Thanks for the replies. So Tried and True Danish Oil is preferred over their "Original" finish?

I use both. My go-to is the Original. As Brian pointed out, Tried and True is the most pure stuff you can buy. Most "Danish oils" are linseed oil and varnish, plus drying agents. T&T has none of that.

I tend to apply these finishes too heavily. As Brian points out (and I have read) you only need enough to change the color of the wood. T&T Original is pretty simple:

1. Apply a thin layer.
2. Wait an hour and then wipe off any excess.
3. Wait 24 hours and then either repeat, or call it done.
4. Burnish with #0000 steel wool.

I generally apply just one coat.

 

[Dean Center]

For utility pieces, I prefer an oil finish, which are food safe when cured and easily maintained. "Danish Oil" finish is usually a mix of oil and varnish, possibly with driers mixed in. "Danish oil" can produce a nice soft, satin result, looking much like an oil finish, and can be speedy to apply. Personally, I don't see the purpose of the varnish, prefer to avoid driers, and so stick with solely oil finishes, mostly walnut.

Also, learning by trial and error is a very common method of getting into woodturning, but working with a coach or mentor you can learn safe practices from the start, and make progress dramatically faster. You local woodturning club probably has such people available. (Probably Catoctin Woodturners in Leesburg, or Woodturners of the Virginias in Mt. Jackson--or Both!)

 

[Stan Pressner]

I use Mahoney's or Doctor's walnut oil and love them.

 

[robo hippy]

I won't put anything on my bowls that I can not eat straight out of the can, and this rules out solvent based finishes. This leaves vegetable oil finishes, and for me that is the Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil. Tung oil does work, some use grape seed oil, and I have heard of some using hemp seed oil. The walnut oil takes a week or so to cure, and UV light and heat, like an incandescent light bulb under it help speed things up a bit. The walnut oils in the grocery stores, some will cure, and others won't. Other vegetable oils can work, but you don't want any build up. They work fine for seasoning a cast iron skillet or a carbon steel pan, but they need heat to polymerize. After initial coating, I don't coat them any more.

I do have a bunch of bowl turning videos up on You Tube.

robo hippy

 

[Grant J Barlow]

For me, it depends on the wood. If I am turning a dark wood, i.e. Cherry or Walnut, I use Mahoney's Walnut oil. The food grade oils from the grocery store will no polymerize and can go rancid. For light colored woods like Maples I use food grade Mineral Oil, which is in the baby section of your local pharmacy. Mineral oil does not harden and will need to be re-applied every so often.

 

[Cary Hulse]

I won't put anything on my bowls that I can not eat straight out of the can, and this rules out solvent based finishes. This leaves vegetable oil finishes, and for me that is the Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil. Tung oil does work, some use grape seed oil, and I have heard of some using hemp seed oil. The walnut oil takes a week or so to cure, and UV light and heat, like an incandescent light bulb under it help speed things up a bit. The walnut oils in the grocery stores, some will cure, and others won't. Other vegetable oils can work, but you don't want any build up. They work fine for seasoning a cast iron skillet or a carbon steel pan, but they need heat to polymerize. After initial coating, I don't coat them any more.

I do have a bunch of bowl turning videos up on You Tube.

robo hippy

I've always worried about "food" oils turning rancid. Is that not really a concern?
I do understand that many woodworking oils have unsavory additives to make them cure.

 

[hockenbery]

I've always worried about "food" oils turning rancid. Is that not really a concern?
I do understand that many woodworking oils have unsavory additives to make them cure.

Some vegetable oils can get rancid. I’ve used walnut oil from Whole Foods for many years it dries in a few days and I have never had a problem with it going rancid. We used it in our kids class. Never had any kids with allergies.

I use Waterlox on most of my bowls intended for food use. Once dry all the nasty stuff is in the air we breath and in no danger of getting into food in the bowl except from air contact with those dispersed airborne chemicals.

 

[Cary Hulse]

Thanks for all the responses.
I think I'll give the T&T Danish oil a try.
Most of our utility bowls are for things like candy, fruit, or dinner rolls. I've never used one for "wet" foods.
I like the idea of leaving them plain too. Seems like they'd get darken and get something of a patina overtime that might be really nice - or maybe not (kids with jam hands, fingerprints and whatnot...)
Wish I had a Whole Foods nearby. I'm not optimistic that what my local grocery carries would be very good. Honestly can't recall ever seeing walnut oil in the store.

 

[robo hippy]

I did run into a guy once at a show, and he never put anything other than olive oil on his bowls and claimed he never had any problems with it going rancid. I know that for cast iron skillets, you want them to get to 400 to 500F for the oil to polymerize. I would not subject a wood bowl to those temperatures. I have had people ask me to fix bowls that had gone sour. Most of them had some build up on the insides of the bowls. To me, this was more from not washing the bowls out than anything else. I do rinse mine off every time I use it, and use a plastic scrubby to remove any gunk. If there is build up, then I use soap. Oh, the only way to fix a bowl that has gone sour is to burn it....

robo hippy

 

[Cary Hulse]

... Oh, the only way to fix a bowl that has gone sour is to burn it....

robo hippy

My work isn't exactly museum quality, but given the time I have in making them, I'd definitely prefer to avoid the firewood treatment.
Though I have a few that probably deserve that anyway.

Can't imagine using olive oil. Wouldn't even use that on my cast iron (though I love to cook with it).

 

[GRJensen]

The latest edition of Fine Woodworking magazine has a good article on food safe finishes by "Dr. Spalt" ... Dr. Seri C. Robinson. She is a wood anatomy professor at Oregon State University and a bio artist who specializes in spalted wood. The bottom line, according top her, is the safest finish for items used with food is no finish at all.

 

[Dean Center]

I've always worried about "food" oils turning rancid. Is that not really a concern?
I do understand that many woodworking oils have unsavory additives to make them cure.

The 3 botanic oils that cure and do not go rancid are walnut, linseed/flax, and tung. Ordinary vegetable oils such as canola, corn, sunflower, saffron, peanut, and olive don't cure.

If you've never seen walnut oil in your supermarket, you are either buying groceries at a dollar store or not looking hard enough . Walnut oil is used in French cuisine and will probably be way up on the top shelf or way down on the bottom shelf in the cooking oil section of most supermarkets, and they'll probably only have a few cans of one type.

That being said, Mahoney's is heat treated to speed curing and reduce allergy potential, which is not necessarily true of culinary walnut oils. In our area, La Tourangelle (c.f.) is the commonly available culinary walnut oil, and is "roasted", which maybe means it's heat treated like Mahoney's, except it doesn't smell the same as Mahoney's. In any case, I've used it when I didn't have any Mahoney's on hand and it seemed to work fine, even though it smelled strongly with a roasted nut aroma after applying. The grocery store walnut oil used to be less expensive, but it's gone up in price and that's no longer the case.

 

[Cary Hulse]

The 3 botanic oils that cure and do not go rancid are walnut, linseed/flax, and tung. Ordinary vegetable oils such as canola, corn, sunflower, saffron, peanut, and olive don't cure.

If you've never seen walnut oil in your supermarket, you are either buying groceries at a dollar store or not looking hard enough . Walnut oil is used in French cuisine and will probably be way up on the top shelf or way down on the bottom shelf in the cooking oil section of most supermarkets, and they'll probably only have a few cans of one type.

That being said, Mahoney's is heat treated to speed curing and reduce allergy potential, which is not necessarily true of culinary walnut oils. In our area, La Tourangelle (c.f.) is the commonly available culinary walnut oil, and is "roasted", which maybe means it's heat treated like Mahoney's, except it doesn't smell the same as Mahoney's. In any case, I've used it when I didn't have any Mahoney's on hand and it seemed to work fine, even though it smelled strongly with a roasted nut aroma after applying. The grocery store walnut oil used to be less expensive, but it's gone up in price and that's no longer the case.

I admit, I haven't ever looked for it (never cooked with it either). I'll have to look.

 

[Cary Hulse]

Found it. As you suggested, they only had one brand and it was hiding in the health food isle (not an isle I frequent).
Oiled a few bowls today. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out.
Appreciate all the help here.

 

[robo hippy]

I do oil my bowls for sale, it just makes them look and "feel" better. After the initial oiling, I generally don't put anything on my personal use bowls. They don't really need it. Mike Mahoney also doesn't put any oil on his personal use bowls and plates.

robo hippy

 

[Doug Freeman]

Tou will find differing opinions on what is “food safe”. The FDA recognizes curing finishes like varnish and lacquer as food safe once cured - any “bad stuff” is encapsulated in plastic and passes through the “plumbing” without issue IF somehow ingested.

My rule is to use walnut oil if utensils will touch the surface, or any finish for “dry food”. Walnut oil dries fairly soft, so it gives a bit with utensil use, and is easily “repaired” by wiping some more oil on. A harder varnish will look worse with wear.

Using something to stop absorption of food liquids is my goal in using walnut oil vs no finish. The tried and true and other linseed oils without chemical driers are all very similar to MaHoney’s and other walnut oils. Havent tried the french roasted walnut oil - dont know if it actually dries or not.

Drying - Mahoney’s does actually dry, but takes a long time at room temp. I put a drop on a non-porous surface and kept it in the house. It took a couple of months to dry. I did the same and put it in my little hotbox that runs at about 100-110F, and it dried in 3-4 days. I suspect the same behavior with the chem free linseed oils.

 

[John Grace]

Hi everyone.
New here and relatively new to turning. Been turning for a few years on an old Delta from the 1930's, mainly in trial and error mode. Trying to learn what I can to improve.

Wondering what folks would recommend for a workhorse finish for basic utility bowls. Looking for something food safe and good for daily use bowls around the house.
I've seen many mentions of "Tried and True" but realizing they have multiple products. From their site, it sounds like any might be good for bowls, but wondering if either the Danish Oil or the Original would be better (meaning easier to use/apply and holds up better with general use). Or is there is something else y'all would recommend?

Thanks in advance

Personally I prefer Dr's Woodshop Walnut oil with Carnuba wax

In a pinch...I'll use Butcher's Block from Depot

 

[Steve Worcester]

If I want a glossy finish, General Finishes salad bowl finish. It is a build finish, takes alot of coats, but sands well and buffs great. I have salad bowls 20ish years old that still look great. Either it holds up well ore we need to eat more salads, or both.
For an easy finish, Mahoneys oil. I sand to 600 (so mush silkier of a feel than 320-400) and put a few coats on . It is easy to work with and easy to repair. I use it on pizza cutter handles for the same reason.

 

[John Grace]

Tou will find differing opinions on what is “food safe”. The FDA recognizes curing finishes like varnish and lacquer as food safe once cured - any “bad stuff” is encapsulated in plastic and passes through the “plumbing” without issue IF somehow ingested.

My rule is to use walnut oil if utensils will touch the surface, or any finish for “dry food”. Walnut oil dries fairly soft, so it gives a bit with utensil use, and is easily “repaired” by wiping some more oil on. A harder varnish will look worse with wear.

Using something to stop absorption of food liquids is my goal in using walnut oil vs no finish. The tried and true and other linseed oils without chemical driers are all very similar to MaHoney’s and other walnut oils. Havent tried the french roasted walnut oil - dont know if it actually dries or not.

Drying - Mahoney’s does actually dry, but takes a long time at room temp. I put a drop on a non-porous surface and kept it in the house. It took a couple of months to dry. I did the same and put it in my little hotbox that runs at about 100-110F, and it dried in 3-4 days. I suspect the same behavior with the chem free linseed oils.

Tou will find differing opinions on what is “food safe”. The FDA recognizes curing finishes like varnish and lacquer as food safe once cured - any “bad stuff” is encapsulated in plastic and passes through the “plumbing” without issue IF somehow ingested.

My rule is to use walnut oil if utensils will touch the surface, or any finish for “dry food”. Walnut oil dries fairly soft, so it gives a bit with utensil use, and is easily “repaired” by wiping some more oil on. A harder varnish will look worse with wear.

Using something to stop absorption of food liquids is my goal in using walnut oil vs no finish. The tried and true and other linseed oils without chemical driers are all very similar to MaHoney’s and other walnut oils. Havent tried the french roasted walnut oil - dont know if it actually dries or not.

Drying - Mahoney’s does actually dry, but takes a long time at room temp. I put a drop on a non-porous surface and kept it in the house. It took a couple of months to dry. I did the same and put it in my little hotbox that runs at about 100-110F, and it dried in 3-4 days. I suspect the same behavior with the chem free linseed oils.

IMO...if a company's litigation lawyers won't allow them to state 'food safe' on their product then I won't put them on pieces I sell as such. With so many excellent food safe products available the big question is quite simply...why take the risk?

 

[Doug Freeman]

IMO...if a company's litigation lawyers won't allow them to state 'food safe' on their product then I won't put them on pieces I sell as such. With so many excellent food safe products available the big question is quite simply...why take the risk?

I wont pretend to know what is required or not to be labeled food safe. I do know I have a copy of the FDA reg that states what finishes are food safe when CURED, so I dont consider it a risk.

For holding dry food items, such as fruit, nuts, etc I have no issue using solvent finishes such as poly or blo. Anything that utensils come in contact with, I use walnut oil, as it is easy to repair the scratches and the person may not allow blo time to cure. I have no issue with whatever you are comfortable with.

 

[Lou Currier]

This is what I generally use. A little goes a long way.

https://a.co/d/cLToUWX

 

[John K Jordan]

I have a copy of the FDA reg that states what finishes are food safe when CURED

I have several books written by finishing experts who all say the same thing. Maybe they researched and found the same FDA info.

I personally like multiple coats of "danish" oil. I'm seldom in a hurry. I don't usually apply enough multiple coats to build up a film to buff to a gloss, although that will work. I usually reapply coats, letting each dry overnight, until the wood will hold no more. That way I know the pores are sealed as well as they are going to be. Then I do whatever it takes to result in the soft satin finish I prefer. Often that involves wet-sanding (or steel-wooling) the surface with a bit more danish oil. I sometimes wet-sand following earlier coats, especially on wood with larger pores - this tends to make a smoother surface as well as knock down any dust particles that may have dried on the surface.

I read that even the major companies (such as Watco) that sell "danish" type finishes have occasionally and quietly changed their formula. A typical recipe for shop-mixed "danish" is equal parts of three things: BLO, varnish, and solvent. At one time Frank Penta taught: BLO, polyurethane, and mineral spirits.

Note that BLO, boiled linseed oil, used to be actually boiled in a drum so it would polymerize (set up) when used. This method was later changed to being heated and held at about 570°F for several days in an oxygen-free environment - keeping the oxygen out is apparently important. I understand that these days, the BLO we can buy is usually chemically treated linseed oil. One source said the use of metallic dryers was common. Uetreated seed/nut oils may not set up in a reasonable time or at all.

Some mix in japan drier to speed up the curing time. Note that at a long time ago japan drier was processed with lead and other metals. That might not be so good to eat.

All this is what I read, not what I know.
The last time I checked, I was still not a chemist.

JKJ

 

[John Grace]

I wont pretend to know what is required or not to be labeled food safe. I do know I have a copy of the FDA reg that states what finishes are food safe when CURED, so I dont consider it a risk.

For holding dry food items, such as fruit, nuts, etc I have no issue using solvent finishes such as poly or blo. Anything that utensils come in contact with, I use walnut oil, as it is easy to repair the scratches and the person may not allow blo time to cure. I have no issue with whatever you are comfortable with.

Question...what finished by 'name' or what finishes by both 'brand & name'. After all...not every can that says 'danish oil' on it is the same. Just a thought...

 

[Jim Grieco]

Hmmm, surprised no one has mentioned Odies Oil. Food safe right out of the jar. Water resistant once cured. My go-to when not needing a poly.

 

[hockenbery]

IMO...if a company's litigation lawyers won't allow them to state 'food safe' on their product then I won't put them on pieces I sell as such. With so many excellent food safe products available the big question is quite simply...why take the risk?

Waterlox says food safe when cured. Look under countertops

Where to Use Waterlox - Waterlox Coatings Corporation

Wood surfaces perfect for Waterlox wood sealers, stains and finishes.

waterlox.com

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

The latest edition of Fine Woodworking magazine has a good article on food safe finishes by "Dr. Spalt" ... Dr. Seri C. Robinson. She is a wood anatomy professor at Oregon State University and a bio artist who specializes in spalted wood. The bottom line, according top her, is the safest finish for items used with food is no finish at all.

I was going to recommend the same article, I would say this is best explanation of wood and food safety you could find.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Question...what finished by 'name' or what finishes by both 'brand & name'. After all...not every can that says 'danish oil' on it is the same. Just a thought...

This is an article from Bob Flexner. Hilighted within note he references the FDA reg “21CFR175.300” which you can find online and read for yourself. It discusses types of finishes, not mfr or product name.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I have several books written by finishing experts who all say the same thing. Maybe they researched and found the same FDA info.

I personally like multiple coats of "danish" oil. I'm seldom in a hurry. I don't usually apply enough multiple coats to build up a film to buff to a gloss, although that will work. I usually reapply coats, letting each dry overnight, until the wood will hold no more. That way I know the pores are sealed as well as they are going to be. Then I do whatever it takes to result in the soft satin finish I prefer. Often that involves wet-sanding (or steel-wooling) the surface with a bit more danish oil. I sometimes wet-sand following earlier coats, especially on wood with larger pores - this tends to make a smoother surface as well as knock down any dust particles that may have dried on the surface.

I read that even the major companies (such as Watco) that sell "danish" type finishes have occasionally and quietly changed their formula. A typical recipe for shop-mixed "danish" is equal parts of three things: BLO, varnish, and solvent. At one time Frank Penta taught: BLO, polyurethane, and mineral spirits.

Note that BLO, boiled linseed oil, used to be actually boiled in a drum so it would polymerize (set up) when used. This method was later changed to being heated and held at about 570°F for several days in an oxygen-free environment - keeping the oxygen out is apparently important. I understand that these days, the BLO we can buy is usually chemically treated linseed oil. One source said the use of metallic dryers was common. Uetreated seed/nut oils may not set up in a reasonable time or at all.

Some mix in japan drier to speed up the curing time. Note that at a long time ago japan drier was processed with lead and other metals. That might not be so good to eat.

All this is what I read, not what I know.
The last time I checked, I was still not a chemist.

JKJ

Tried and True claim they use no dryers or chemicals. FWIW

 

[John K Jordan]

The latest edition of Fine Woodworking magazine has a good article on food safe finishes by "Dr. Spalt" ... Dr. Seri C. Robinson.

I have her spalting books - fantastic. That's where I found out that the beautiful black lines we treasure are not the spalting but the zone lines of defense between fungi colonies.

Even more fantastic, Sir Google just let it slip that Seri writes SciFi books under the pen name J.S. Fields - I'd bought and read all of the Ardulum books and I had no idea Dr Robinson wrote them. The stories in the books do include a rather unique wood baisis.

I watched the FWW Shop Talk Live with Sari Robinson as guest.

STL326: No Finish? No Problem! - FineWoodworking

Seri’s book about wood toxicity and maintenance can be found on Amazon: Living with Wood: A Guide for Toymakers, Hobbyists, Crafters, and Parents A great guide for budding wood workers, […]

www.finewoodworking.com

BTW, this egg is a result of one of my favorite accidental maple spalting tests:

The photo doesn't show it well but the deep green color is something I haven't seen before.
By coincidence, photographing like this tied in to a comparison Dr Robinson made between honeybees and fungi in wood.

JKJ

 

[John Kananis]

Hmmm, surprised no one has mentioned Odies Oil. Food safe right out of the jar. Water resistant once cured. My go-to when not needing a poly.

I've become a little partial to this stuff for a lot of things. I also use poly, shellac, lacquer, etc, etc but for an oil finish, I'll go with either polymerized tung oil for kitchen utensils and high use items or the Odie's for low luster bowls and the like. And the wax smells really good too lol. Not saying that I don't like watco Danish oil or the doctor's walnut oil because I do but I don't think of reaching for them unless I'm looking to build coats, which the Odie's isn't as demanding of.

 

[Jim Grieco]

And the wax smells really good too lol.

Ditto!

 

[Lou Currier]

One thing to consider is if the item is to be used as a salad bowl, will the finish stand up to the acids in tomatoes? Recently I had to refinish a bowl for a customer who used her bowl for salad and the tomatoes ate through the finish.

 

[robo hippy]

One thing about the "safe when fully cured" finishes. Some people are hyper sensitive to the solvents and curing agents.

I did find Seri's books interesting. I have signed copies!

robo hippy