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Food safe finish for utility bowls

Joined
Sep 24, 2024
Messages
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Location
Front Royal, VA
Hi everyone.
New here and relatively new to turning. Been turning for a few years on an old Delta from the 1930's, mainly in trial and error mode. Trying to learn what I can to improve.

Wondering what folks would recommend for a workhorse finish for basic utility bowls. Looking for something food safe and good for daily use bowls around the house.
I've seen many mentions of "Tried and True" but realizing they have multiple products. From their site, it sounds like any might be good for bowls, but wondering if either the Danish Oil or the Original would be better (meaning easier to use/apply and holds up better with general use). Or is there is something else y'all would recommend?

Thanks in advance
 
Joined
Feb 28, 2021
Messages
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Location
Roulette, PA
Website
www.reallyruralwoodworks.com
Hi everyone.
New here and relatively new to turning. Been turning for a few years on an old Delta from the 1930's, mainly in trial and error mode. Trying to learn what I can to improve.

Wondering what folks would recommend for a workhorse finish for basic utility bowls. Looking for something food safe and good for daily use bowls around the house.
I've seen many mentions of "Tried and True" but realizing they have multiple products. From their site, it sounds like any might be good for bowls, but wondering if either the Danish Oil or the Original would be better (meaning easier to use/apply and holds up better with general use). Or is there is something else y'all would recommend?

Thanks in advance
Ive used Tried & True products and I like them a lot. They work very nicely for bowl finishes (where they should be food safe) - Tried and True Varnish is, if you read their website info, a polymerized linseed oil with a Pine Resin to give it a little more hardness and shine - Tried & True Original is a mix of the same Polymerized Linseed oil and natural Beeswax - This stuff is a great top finish, but not necessarily conducive to adding other finish over top (due to the wax content) and finally the Tried & True danish oil is just pure Polymerized Linseed oil - Of the three, Danish oil will have the quickest results from the time it is finished to the time it is use-ready - Original can take a week or two for *each coat* to fully cure , and depending on how thick you coated it in the first place, possibly longer - The thinner you coat them , the quicker the cure so, multiple thin coats will result in a cured finish a lot quicker - and by "Thin" I mean barely enough to dampen the wood - if you slather on a whole bunch, it is way too thick (A pint can can finish several hundred bowls - My original pint can, which I STILL have and haven't used up yet, has finished over 100 small to medium bowls to date)

A lot may depend on how patient you can be to present a finished bowl - If you don't consider it a problem to lay on a thin coat (and buff it out, and gently roughen surface with scotch-brite pad equivalent to 4-Ought (0000) Steel wool (I'd rather not use steel wool on wood) once a week over 4 to 6 weeks (4-6 coats) before calling a bowl "finished" , then Tried and True may suit very nicely, but if you need a "one and done" finish then probably a commercial walnut oil, salad bowl finish (or no finish at all - Antique bowls never HAD a finish applied to them, it was just the raw wood, you can get a surprisingly nice polish and sheen by using lathe shavings as a final "sanding" buff/burnish) might do better for you. All really depends on your level of patience (and whether you can convince someone an "unfinished" bowl is finished.. although one could just as easily apply some Mineral oil from the drug aisle of your local dollar store - it is sold as a laxative - and use that as a "sorta" water-resistant (there ain't no completely waterproof finishes for wood, unless you count epoxy resin, maybe)

There really ISN'T any good reliable finish that holds up against kitchen use (and washing) - it eventually needs maintenance (aforementioned mineral oil, or use beeswax or canning paraffin or a combination of those, or re-coat with more tried & true, for example) Most wood spoons (even the cheap ones you find in dollar store) have NO finish at all to them for that reason - a coat of oil or wax can help keep it from absorbing food stains and odors, if rinsed right away , but if left to sit in dirty dishwater or used saucepans, etc (and for bowls, leaving leftovers to sit in them for extended periods) , no matter what finish (even a varnish or polyurethane) - the food odors and moisture (and colors) will eventually absorb into the wood itself.... So Wood utensils and bowls are quite useful, can be nice to have, but they DO require rather abit more maintenance effort than your typical modern kitchenware.
 
Joined
Sep 19, 2023
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Location
Columbia, TN
Thanks for the replies. So Tried and True Danish Oil is preferred over their "Original" finish?

I use both. My go-to is the Original. As Brian pointed out, Tried and True is the most pure stuff you can buy. Most "Danish oils" are linseed oil and varnish, plus drying agents. T&T has none of that.

I tend to apply these finishes too heavily. As Brian points out (and I have read) you only need enough to change the color of the wood. T&T Original is pretty simple:

1. Apply a thin layer.
2. Wait an hour and then wipe off any excess.
3. Wait 24 hours and then either repeat, or call it done.
4. Burnish with #0000 steel wool.

I generally apply just one coat.
 
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
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Location
Bozeman, MT
For utility pieces, I prefer an oil finish, which are food safe when cured and easily maintained. "Danish Oil" finish is usually a mix of oil and varnish, possibly with driers mixed in. "Danish oil" can produce a nice soft, satin result, looking much like an oil finish, and can be speedy to apply. Personally, I don't see the purpose of the varnish, prefer to avoid driers, and so stick with solely oil finishes, mostly walnut.

Also, learning by trial and error is a very common method of getting into woodturning, but working with a coach or mentor you can learn safe practices from the start, and make progress dramatically faster. You local woodturning club probably has such people available. (Probably Catoctin Woodturners in Leesburg, or Woodturners of the Virginias in Mt. Jackson--or Both!)
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
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Location
Eugene, OR
I won't put anything on my bowls that I can not eat straight out of the can, and this rules out solvent based finishes. This leaves vegetable oil finishes, and for me that is the Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil. Tung oil does work, some use grape seed oil, and I have heard of some using hemp seed oil. The walnut oil takes a week or so to cure, and UV light and heat, like an incandescent light bulb under it help speed things up a bit. The walnut oils in the grocery stores, some will cure, and others won't. Other vegetable oils can work, but you don't want any build up. They work fine for seasoning a cast iron skillet or a carbon steel pan, but they need heat to polymerize. After initial coating, I don't coat them any more.

I do have a bunch of bowl turning videos up on You Tube.

robo hippy
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
10
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43
Location
East Dubuque, Illinois
For me, it depends on the wood. If I am turning a dark wood, i.e. Cherry or Walnut, I use Mahoney's Walnut oil. The food grade oils from the grocery store will no polymerize and can go rancid. For light colored woods like Maples I use food grade Mineral Oil, which is in the baby section of your local pharmacy. Mineral oil does not harden and will need to be re-applied every so often.
 
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