Electric vs Pneumatic sanding

[Craig Hertzog]

I've been using cordless drills for my sanding but in looking into other options, I see alot of people like corded over cordless, I just never liked the idea of extra cords running around. But I've also been seeing some say pneumatic works better for them. What are your preferences? I'm debating giving the pneumatic sander a go

 

[Bill Blasic]

Pneumatic just plain uses a lot of air. I don't know whats cheaper using a corded drill or running the compressor constantly. My guess corded is cheaper. I have DeWalt corded drills that I have been using for over 20 years. 20 years ago on a good day on Ebay I could get 4 brand new DeWalt drills for $30, that's total not each. I still have a few new ones cached in the shop. I've tried pneumatic but I prefer corded, works ad good as anything else.

 

[Vincent Vogel]

I use a battery powered drill for grits up to 180 and an air operated random orbit sander from woodturners wonders for 220 grit and above. It only uses 3 scfm of air so my small compressor keeps up. Both types have their advantages and places of usefulness.

 

[Jaramiah Severns]

I use corded simply because I never want to be interrupted by a dead battery or an empty air tank. Totally understand not wanting another cord strung across the shop, but it’s worth the trade off for constant, reliable power to the sander IMO.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Some day if my cheapo 60 gal HD compressor ever dies I'll invest the several thousand dollars in a compressor that will make enough air to run a pneumatic sander. I love the little Grex sander I have, but I do have to stop regularly and wait for the compressor to catch up whenever I try to use it. If you do any amount of sanding you'll find that air is expensive, it takes a lot more electricity to compress the air than to run a sander directly.

I'd be willing to pay a lot for an electric sander made with a similar very small form factor to the Grex using a modern brushless motor-- a 2" sander shouldn't really need a three pound motor.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I too use a Grex random orbit for finish sanding, but it is an air hog and not powerful enough for rough work. Random orbit scratches are much less visible than rotary or plain orbital. Pneumatic sanders typically run at a very high speed- I taped a block under the trigger as a speed control.

I use a compact Milwaukee cordless rotary sander/polisher that runs at 2800 rpm for roughing. It's a bit larger than the Grex but not by much. If I could get a corded unit the same size and speed I would, to avoid charging and replacing batteries. M12 sander/polisher Metabo makes a corded random orbit sander that might be worth looking at. Metabo

 

[Russ Braun]

I use cordless drills because I have a bunch of them. Lots of batteries as well. Being a GC, I always ran into a need for a drill when I didn’t have one; off to the big box store. When I retired, I was shocked at how many I had acquired over the years. Regarding quality of sanding, if I don’t put my glasses on, it’s fine, haha!

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I used a pneumatic RO sander exclusively for about a year. I bought a corded angle drill several months ago. What I found is that the drill removes scratches and tool marks much better than the RO. I use the electric drill for the first grit, and then the pneumatic after that. Way fewer scratches to deal with. I have a 20 gallon Kobalt compressor from Lowe's. I forget what I paid, but $400 or so. I can drain it of air, but it takes an hour or so of heavy sanding. Not a great compressor, but adequate.

 

[Craig Hertzog]

I used a pneumatic RO sander exclusively for about a year. I bought a corded angle drill several months ago. What I found is that the drill removes scratches and tool marks much better than the RO. I use the electric drill for the first grit, and then the pneumatic after that. Way fewer scratches to deal with. I have a 20 gallon Kobalt compressor from Lowe's. I forget what I paid, but $400 or so. I can drain it of air, but it takes an hour or so of heavy sanding. Not a great compressor, but adequate.

Yeah, I have the Kobalt quiet tek compressor, I really like it. I may have to give pneumatic sanding a try. I've also been seeing some people are using die grinders and some are using pneumatic sanders. After looking at them, I don't see much difference in the 2 except, I'm guessing, the sander is RO

 

[Craig Hertzog]

I use a battery powered drill for grits up to 180 and an air operated random orbit sander from woodturners wonders for 220 grit and above. It only uses 3 scfm of air so my small compressor keeps up. Both types have their advantages and places of usefulness.

I'll have to look into this one at Woodturners Wonders

I too use a Grex random orbit for finish sanding, but it is an air hog and not powerful enough for rough work. Random orbit scratches are much less visible than plain orbital. Pneumatic sanders typically run at a very high speed- I taped a block under the trigger as a speed control.

I use a compact Milwaukee cordless rotary sander/polisher that runs at 2800 rpm for roughing. It's a bit larger than the Grex but not by much. If I could get a corded unit the same size and speed I would, to avoid charging and replacing batteries. M12 sander/polisher Metabo makes a corded random orbit sander that might be worth looking at. Metabo

The Grex looks interesting, may have to check that one out

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Yeah, I have the Kobalt quiet tek compressor, I really like it. I may have to give pneumatic sanding a try. I've also been seeing some people are using die grinders and some are using pneumatic sanders. After looking at them, I don't see much difference in the 2 except, I'm guessing, the sander is RO

I forgot to say I use a cheap RO from Amazon. I have two of them so I don't have to switch mandrels. They leak a bit after a few months but for the most part I get by fine with them.

RO Pneumatic Sander

 

[Tony Rozendaal]

I sanded with a pneumatic drill for a few years but have switched back to electric. I don't keep track of my electric bills that closely, but my sense is that the electric drill is much more efficient than the pneumatic. I do still use an old Harbor Freight orbital sander (unfortunately it doesn't seem to be sold anymore) for certain things like scratches in end grain cherry that just wont go away with anything else.

The pneumatic drill makes such a cool sound, but that is the only thing I miss about it as the electric cord is much more flexible than the air hose.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I sanded with a pneumatic drill for a few years but have switched back to electric. I don't keep track of my electric bills that closely, but my sense is that the electric drill is much more efficient than the pneumatic. I do still use an old Harbor Freight orbital sander (unfortunately it doesn't seem to be sold anymore) for certain things like scratches in end grain cherry that just wont go away with anything else.

There's no question that pneumatic tools are less efficient. A typical 5" r.o. air sander will require 15 cfm @90 psi, keeping a 5 hp compressor going full time. An electric unit the same size will use about a tenth the kilowatts. Air tools have the advantage of light weight, compact size and motor longevity,

 

[Doug Freeman]

For sanding slower is better.

A big downside to air powered is speed adjustment, IME. I’ve never used an expensive air driven, they may be better. The ones I have used were more difficult to get “just the right speed” vs a cheap electric drill. I use a cheap HF router speed control for the HF close quarter drill I use.

For an ros I use a cheap automotive var speed polisher with 2 & 3” pads - small form factor, works great.

If you have a large quiet air supply I suppose air driven is ok, but you still have to deal with the tool exhaust.

From a capital investment perspective, electric is superior. Large, quiet compressors are expensive to buy, and more expensive to operate vs electric tools.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

There's no question that pneumatic tools are less efficient. A typical 5" r.o. air sander will require 15 cfm @90 psi, keeping a 5 hp compressor going full time. An electric unit the same size will use about a tenth the kilowatts. Air tools have the advantage of light weight, compact size and motor longevity,

FWIW, my cheapo sanders use 4 CFM (or at least that's what is advertised).

Edit:

I was wrong. The ROs use 12 CFM.

I don't doubt that the electric are more energy efficient. I moved from Vegas (20 years there) to TN two years ago. My power bills are so small in comparison to Vegas, that any difference between drill and air is unnoticeable to me. My record cooling bill in Vegas was $777 one July. I rarely crack $300 here.

 

[Craig Hertzog]

FWIW, my cheapo sanders use 4 CFM (or at least that's what is advertised).

Yeah, the ones I was looking at all pull under 4

 

[Richard Coers]

I use a Bosch adjustable right angle drill. You certainly don't need high speed air or electric drills to do a proper job. My objection of pneumatic is the huge air compressor grinding away to drive a tiny sander. https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-...MIpPng4ZaLhwMVG39vBB0jpQVHEAQYAyABEgL1efD_BwE

 

[JeffSmith]

I've found pnuematic sanders to be noisier - whether from the tool itself (the cheaper ones anyway) or the compressor cycling on and off and much less friendly to control of the speed than a good old corded or uncorded electric drill. The sped control is much better - sandpaper lasts longer and less heat is easier on both the paper and the wood. Haven't tried the newer ROS air sanders yet; I'd guess they're better on most counts, but in my world, a little slower does a better job.

I go to the shop to exercise my creative muscles, make something I can be proud of or see if that idea that seemed so good in my mind's eye was worth the effort - not to see if I can produce a body of work in record time or feel that I'm on the factory floor bringing the latest technology to bear on the problem of finishing my work.

In truth, I've stopped power sanding with grits over 320 or 400 in favor of final hand sanding with the grain. It goes pretty fast and allows a careful examination of the finish as you work and uses almost no energy that didn't start as food.

The Luddites weren't completely wrong...

 

[robo hippy]

I tried a pneumatic Sioux angle drill, and it kept the compressor running non stop, which uses far more juice than the corded drill. I did try a Milwaukee cordless drill once and the battery ran out too quickly for my tastes. I don't mind the cords, well, maybe I am just used to them. With the random orbit sanders, they do work better with the finer grits, but if you have to take out tool marks with 80 or 100 grit, they are not efficient.

robo hippy

 

[odie]

I've been using the no longer made corded Milwaukee, and Sioux drills (when you can find them) for many years, and they are industrial grade. I did try one of the knock-off imitations of these drills once, and concluded they are not made with the same quality. The only place these Milwaukees are used is for very aggressive sanding in the interiors of bowls. These drill/sanders have torque on demand that far exceeds the usefulness of air powered tools.

(IMHO, if you need any kind of powered sanding on bowl exteriors, then you need to refine your lathe methods further. Exteriors of bowls need to be hand sanded only without the need for anything coarser than 180gt.)




I also have a Grex 2" RO sander, and it's a great tool......however, I very seldom have the need to use it. Nearly all my RO sanding is done by hand.

In the past 42 years, I've used everything you can imagine for powered sanding.....everything.....and the above is what works best.

-o-

 

[Terry McDowell]

I like a battery powered angle drill and a 2 inch sanding disc. Works well on all size projects.

 

[John Ames]

I don't see this as a "this or that" question... Depending on how many things you turn, the real answer is both, if you can afford it... Because of the nature of the junk wood I turn, I use everything from the "normal" air tools and electric drills to rasp files, 4" belt sanders and automotive Roloc discs spun at 20,000 rpm...

Every single piece of wood is different and the more tools you have in your tool belt (literally and figuratively) the better.

 

[hughie]

My compressor would be running non-stop with air tools and I as turn in long stints battery operate tools didn't seem viable. So I use mains power, but I bring them from overhead to avoid the usual floor clutter.

 

[Brad Barker]

I've been using cordless drills for my sanding but in looking into other options, I see alot of people like corded over cordless, I just never liked the idea of extra cords running around. But I've also been seeing some say pneumatic works better for them. What are your preferences? I'm debating giving the pneumatic sander a go

I have used pneumatic a lot but recently switched back to electric and cordless. Pneumatic’s are fast, lightweight and easy to control but you must have an air compressor that will keep up. That hasn’t been a problem for me since I own a large 6 hp version on a 50 gallon supply tank. My pneumatic sander broke so I started using a right angle slow speed drill/sander which I prefer now over the pneumatic model. My main concern was my compressor is 30 years old. I’d like to keep it running for many more years. The pneumatic sander requires a lot of airflow to keep it going. A small air compressor won’t work.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

After taking a couple of in-person turning classes where I had air die grinders available, I would say that the biggest advantage to air driven tools is that they are capable of higher rpm's than cordless or electric drills. Right angle cordless or electric work well for normal sanding of the inside and outside of bowls and the outside of hollow forms. However, they just don't generate enough speed to do any carving/decoration quickly and easily. It takes a much longer time to cut a groove or other decorative carving than an air driven die grinder. The downside of all air tools is that they require a compressor which generates a sufficient amount air which means that the specs must be sufficient to keep the tool going. I don't have the space or need for a large compressor on a regular basis. This is true for all air-driven tools, carvers, etc. They just work better when carving or creating surface decorations.

I believe there are turbine type systems which can be used for carving and probably some sand carving, but they are generally a little pricey.

So, for regular sanding I use a passive sander from The Sanding Glove for the outside (and sometimes wide open insides) of bowls and hollow forms. I use a right angle electric sander for the insides of open forms when I can and then hand sand the rest. I'm not in love with sanding but then I'm not a production turner so don't have that many pieces to sand.

If you have the shop space and can fit a large enough compressor with air lines to your lathe, it's a great addition to the shop for other uses also. It just doesn't work for me from a space standpoint.

 

[Dean Center]

I use a corded drill because it's lighter than a battery operated drill. The balance is different, too and I may have convinced myself that the corded is more maneuverable. Probably just lighter and therefore easier to handle.

 

[Dennis Weiner]

I find very little difference in results between electric and pneumatic sanders in my turnings!! Owning either will not make me a better turner. However, I can achieve better and faster results overall with a Random Orbital Sander. Most of 3" or smaller ROS used in woodturning are pneumatic. The known electric 3" ROS is the Metabo corded. However, if you search Amazon for random orbital "polishers" in the automotive department, you will find quite a few 2", 3" Electric Random orbital sanders and pneumatics. If the situation calls for it, I also use a detail finishing sander with a custom pad so I can use my 3" disks.
I do not use ROS or detail sanders with the lathe spinning. However, I may use the electric right-angle drill with the lower grits while the lathe is moving.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I have both the Grex and Metabo sanders, both basically brand new. When I got the Grex I had a Black Max air compressor that scared the bejesus out of me every time it started up. The grex could run it out of air in a flat minute. Sometime in the future you will see this in the for sale area. The Metabo, well I just don't know why it sits in the cupboard? Must be a reason will have to explore that and see why I haven't used it. The one thing in my sanding that is a must are the Skilton Mandrels, there is not a better made mandrel that I have found. I buy them from Steve Worcester out of Texas. They last 10 times longer than any mandrel I have ever used.

 

[Craig Hertzog]

I have both the Grex and Metabo sanders, both basically brand new. When I got the Grex I had a Black Max air compressor that scared the bejesus out of me every time it started up. The grex could run it out of air in a flat minute. Sometime in the future you will see this in the for sale area. The Metabo, well I just don't know why it sits in the cupboard? Must be a reason will have to explore that and see why I haven't used it. The one thing in my sanding that is a must are the Skilton Mandrels, there is not a better made mandrel that I have found. I buy them from Steve Worcester out of Texas. They last 10 times longer than any mandrel I have ever used.

I’ll have to look into that. Not familiar with the Stilton mandrel

 

[RichColvin]

When I was in plant operations, the most expensive utility was compressed air.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

When I was in plant operations, the most expensive utility was compressed air.

No doubt, but then you have to ask why air powered tools are so commonly the choice.

 

[Gary W Miller]

I've been using cordless drills for my sanding but in looking into other options, I see alot of people like corded over cordless, I just never liked the idea of extra cords running around. But I've also been seeing some say pneumatic works better for them. What are your preferences? I'm debating giving the pneumatic sander a go

Well there's been a lot of good answers and I tend to agree with Jaramiah and even if there was an advatage to using air, you still have an extra "cord" (read hose) hanging a round. I have all 3 but my go to sander is the one Odi refered to. It'a an old Sioux and it just keeps going.

 

[GRJensen]

I use a Makita corded angle drill for power sanding. I have a set of pneumatic sanders, but can't stand the racket from my 60 gallon compressor. I have 2 Bosch cordless drills, but I hate dealing with batteries and have never used them for sanding.

 

[Art Chamberlin]

I used battery powered DeWalts for awhile, but the batteries don’t last very long (their total lifetime I mean), and they are too expensive to run out and keep replacing the batteries. I also wore out the gears, probably from overuse. I switched to a Makita and have had better luck. But I’m sure it won’t last either. I think a drill is primarily designed for drilling, not continuous use.

 

[Ric Williams]

After much experimentation, I've settled (for now) on using a corded Makita right angle drill (an excellent tool, but pricey) for rough sanding and a compact pneumatic ROS for finish sanding. The pneumatic ROS does make my compressor (Quincy 2hp 20 gal portable) come on, but it seems to keep up ok. If someone made a good corded electric ROS that wasn't too bulky and expensive and handled Roloc h&l pads, I'd probably give it a try. I initially used the smaller pneumatic palm ROS that Woodturners Wonders sells, but I found the palm paddle trigger to be too sensitive, and mostly due to my own incompetence, I kept hitting the trigger paddle when changing pads, and I knew it was just a matter of time before I hurt my hand from unintended activations. The one I have now looks more like a right angle die grinder with a conventional finger operated lever that I find much easier to control. But that's just me. YMMV

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I tried the HF die grinder for sanding but way too fast. I use both a Job Max corded and a PROS from WTW RO Pneumatic. To me cost is negligible compared to sanding supplies and other tools. My little 20 gallon HF 30 year old compressor does the job and have never run out of air. I do mostly use the electric as it seems to remove wood faster. I think there is a place for both. Cordless would be nice but add in cost of batteries and weight and to me is a no brainer.

 

[Bob Vaughan]

When I was in plant operations, the most expensive utility was compressed air.

30-40 years ago I read a study about the expenses of air operated tools. The conclusion was that the energy was expensive but the performance difference in the hands of the operators was more than worth it. That study was focused on manufacturing rather than recreational activities.

When I power sand, I'll use electric, but I rarely power sand and instead use shear scrapers.

 

[Darryn Achall]

Started out turning and using a cordless drill for sanding. Ended up with elbow trouble from holding the trigger down for long periods. Bought a corded drill that has a trigger lock! More importantly, I resolved to improve my skills to the point where not so much sanding is needed! Still might be sanding too much but only half as much as I did 4 years ago.

 

[Brian Gustin]

Started out turning and using a cordless drill for sanding. Ended up with elbow trouble from holding the trigger down for long periods. Bought a corded drill that has a trigger lock! More importantly, I resolved to improve my skills to the point where not so much sanding is needed! Still might be sanding too much but only half as much as I did 4 years ago.

That's pretty much me, to a T - Except I still use my Makita cordless drill (2 of them) for sanding but as noted, skills improved to where time spent sanding is more and more minimal.

 

[Dave Hulett]

bought a grex a few years back. my 135psi compressor couldn't keep up. Then last year I bought woodturner wonders new 2" rbo. didn't think it was worth it and found a buyer on this forum.. A little bit of pressure and rotation would stop My 12v dewalt cordless works great.