dust collection images

[ebrannon]

I am looking to improve the collection of dust around the lathe. I have a good quality Oneida system, but I just have a single drop above the lathe. It pulls in the fine particles that float up, but it seems most drop DOWN. My initial thinking is to construct a hood that can slide behind the lathe and be movable.

I would like to see images of what people have done that maximizes the collection. Also, experiences with hoods and best place to position it.

See the attached image. The 5" drop is just visible in the top of the image.

 

[MichaelMouse]

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Dryer-Duct.jpg

Magnet to the rear or front, dust stream directed down and into the maw. It'll do better'n 95%.

 

[Andy Chen]

Dust Collection Setup

My lathe has a built-in mounting bracket. I mounted my dust hood (attached to a cyclone dust collector) on an articulated stand similar to Gary Sanders' light stand and bolted it to the bracket. As shown in attached photos the setup is very versatile. You can move the hood anywhere along the lathe right where you are sanding. My architect's lamp is mounted on a similar stand and the lamp and hood can move independently without getting into each other's way.

 

[robo hippy]

The only thing wrong with this one is that it only goes on for sanding, and I can't turn with it on the lathe. That version will be next improvement. The more enclosed your piece is, the more dust is collected.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZsVc7qVx7A

robo hippy

 

[Richard Jones]

Here's mine. Big Gulp in the rear, attached to the headstock via a piece of T-track, so it slides along with the headstock, and pivots and slides front to back. HVAC floor boot in the front. Plug for that is shown on the ways. That is just stuck on the front of the ways with 4 big RE magnets.

 

[john lucas]

I gave up on collecting the bigger chips. Because of all my varied turning styles chip collection was useless. You would need 10 times the volume of suction that I have to collect those. In fact I was cleaning the shop the other day and found shavings on a shelf that is 1 foot from the ceiling, 10 feet away from the lathe.
I have a 4" hose connected to a 5x12 air conditioning vent sitting right behind whatever is turned. I can move it to pick up as much as possible.
For the rest I just use a garden rake and a broom to sweep them up later. I don't have to empty the dust collector as often since it's all on the floor.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

My approach is simple and works well for me. I have an 8-foot section of 4-in flexible hose attached to the overhead DC system that loops down almost to the floor and back up to near the lathe spindle. The free end has a band clamp with a large rare-earth magnet epoxied to it. Therefore the business end of the hose can be positioned in a wide variety of locations as needed. I can't prove it, but I believe that the airflow pattern for suction into an orifice is roughly the reverse of that for air being blown from the orifice. If so, then when designing the collector geometry one should think in terms of what would produce the most airflow past the object being sanded if the system were blowing air instead of sucking it. As shown in the picture, the air inlet in my system is pointed at and close to the turning. BTW, the curvature of the flexible hose is produced by stitching together several loops of the reinforcing wire with a piece of steel wire.

Dennis

 

[Ron Rutter]

My approach is simple and works well for me. I have an 8-foot section of 4-in flexible hose attached to the overhead DC system that loops down almost to the floor and back up to near the lathe spindle. The free end has a band clamp with a large rare-earth magnet epoxied to it. Therefore the business end of the hose can be positioned in a wide variety of locations as needed. I can't prove it, but I believe that the airflow pattern for suction into an orifice is roughly the reverse of that for air being blown from the orifice. If so, then when designing the collector geometry one should think in terms of what would produce the most airflow past the object being sanded if the system were blowing air instead of sucking it. As shown in the picture, the air inlet in my system is pointed at and close to the turning. BTW, the curvature of the flexible hose is produced by stitching together several loops of the reinforcing wire with a piece of steel wire.

Dennis

I think you should experiment with a pick-up at least 6" square. You might be surprised at the improvement in picking up fines. A higher volume lower velocity is always better! The existing setup tunnels. Ron

 

[john lucas]

For a short while Powermatic had a dust collector hood for sale that looked like something NASA would design. It had a central aerodynamic sort of wing that I assume helped speed up the flow of air and help funnel it down. I could not find it on their website. I thought about buying one a while back but didn't go to the trouble of calling them to see if it exists.

 

[MichaelMouse]

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/forces/isq.html

Closer you get, better things work. If you power sand, it's easy to adjust the pickup and the producer positions to get maximum benefit from both gravity and proximity. Restriction of the inlet size will give some increase in velocity, though the impeller is really only capable of a certain volume at any given pressure, so it's not a worthwhile course of action overall.

Production of long shavings can lead to rats nest clogs in any bend or restricted area of the DC hose. I use a bag to collect the big stuff. Bit of a modification in cutting technique will collect almost every shaving from the outside of a bowl as produced, while a tabletop and back wall takes care of what's produced from the inside without having to bend, reach and shovel.

 

[john lucas]

MM I was thinking the Powermatic dust chute was trying to take advantage of the Bernoulli theory and of course probably the inverse square (I'm a photographer and had to use that law many many times in lighting)

 

[MichaelMouse]

Difficulty applying the principle here is what I mentioned in the post. The impeller in the DC itself. It will only move so much air at X inches resistance. Can't vary the motor rpm, which might help - or not, if their design team has optimized angle and scoop - get more volume going, so best you can do with a Bernoulli concept would be to give some direction to the flow. To use your photo lighting analogy, barn doors will not add to the light, just control the spill.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

I think you should experiment with a pick-up at least 6" square. You might be surprised at the improvement in picking up fines. A higher volume lower velocity is always better! The existing setup tunnels. Ron

I would agree on the higher volume part, particularly if you are trying to flush out a large area. However, sanding dust comes off the work piece at a rather high velocity and a higher velocity of air at the work piece moving toward the collector is needed to capture it before it spreads out and is breathed in by the turner. When I sand, I am able to see a column of dust moving directly from the sander to the mouth of the hose.

 

[ebrannon]

good information

I want to thank everyone who made a suggestion or posted a video or information.

What I did was construct a plywood box that I attach behind the piece on my aux bed. I can move it in and out as well as rotate. The 5" line will connect to the rear of it.

I am also rigging up a small computer fan to create a small amount of laminar flow of air towards the intake. I understand from a few of the commenters that a small amount of airflow over the piece makes a huge difference.

I should have everything tested in a few weeks (waiting for my flex hose to arrive).

In the longer run, I like what Robo Hippy built. For large sanding jobs that will create a lot of dust, it seems like the ticket. Much like the hood One Way has, but of course, at a fraction of the cost.

thanks.

Ed