Dulling down a finish

[Randy Heinemann]

I generally put Satin or Matte finishes on my bowls and hollow forms. Recently I've used Satin Wipe-On poly (specifically MinWax). It has resulted in a great finish but is a little too shiny for my liking. I sanded to 600 grit on a mahogany hollow form I recently turned, with sanding with 400 grit sandpaper between 5 coats of the wipe-on. What is the best way to dull the finish just a little after my final coat? Very fine sandpaper (like 1200 grit)? Synthetic "steel wool"? I've used it in the past; both 0000 and much finer (2200 grit), sometimes getting the result I want and sometimes no. I was wondering whether there is a more certain method of dulling a finish after the last coat. My results with the methods I've tried have been inconsistent.

 

[JeffSmith]

If I need to dull a finish, I typically apply ren wax with 0000 steel wool or very fine synthetic pads. A light buff with a microfiber cloth and done. Seems to work for me.

 

[hughie]

I use either matt or satin Wipe On Poly, the trick for me is to wait till it hardens it may take a couple of days depending weather. If you have several coats of Satin it will dry fairly shiny you can either add a some matt to knock it back some, or buff with brown buffing compound on a cotton/linen buff. The first time you hit it with the buff it will dull it down at this point change to a clean buff and buff lightly to the shine you want.
Alternately use Minwax Antique oil straight onto the bare wood rub it in vigorously till it cant take any more then buff. Dont wait buff right away till it takes a low shine, all up it should take you about 10-15 minutes from start to finish.

 

[Roger Ziegler]

You might consider this process as "undoing" all the fine work that you did to this point ... bit I sometimes rub the "finished" object with mineral oil and a little (very little) pumice (grade FF), applied with a small felt block. Even less aggressive is Rottenstone. I find it results in a nice luster, even over a Matte or Satin finish. Try these ideas on a scrap piece first to judge the results. I never tried this with a lubricant of Walnut oil or another oil finish, but that might also work. I have only tried this on small turnings, never on a bowl over 4 inches in diameter. Use a slow speed on the lathe, there is no need to build up heat from friction. Good luck.

 

[Brian Gustin]

Or, buff it down with a wadded-up brown paper bag.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I have buffed various turned pieces and furniture (for example, table tops) with paper bag sheets. It works well to smooth the surface without sanding through the finish and stain. However, it does not seem to take the shine off, at least with with polyurethane. The attached pictures are of a piece that raised the issue of shiny versus dull finish again for me. When I finished it with Satin MinWax Wipe-On Poly it got just a bit too glossy for my liking. However, after several coats with sanding in between and then putting a coat of Briwax on with 0000 synthetic "steel wool" and buffing it off with a cloth, the final result seemed to be right for my taste. The shading around the rim is Nordic Bronze Chroma-Gilt. The wood is mahogany from a 1 1/2" board of laminated strips; 4 layers glued together (so a lamination of laminated wood). The mahogany is old wood that is completely stable and, because it's made of laminated strips, it doesn't change shape much. I made a bowl from the same with polymer clay inlay awhile back that's in my library on this site.

Anyway, thanks for the suggestions. I will keep them in mind for the future.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Many choices, depending on what you want. I only use "gloss" finishes and then "finish the finish" to achieve the desired sheen for film finishes. The flatteners in satin finishes just cloud the film. A rubbed out finish essentially always looks better than whatever came off the brush or sprayer, deeper and less plastic than the starting point. 0000 steel wool is almost always the starting point, it takes off any nubs in the finish and leaves a nice matte finish. From there I use a Beale buff on many turned objects, and then polishing compounds to take it up to whatever level of gloss you desire. For polyurethane it's important to let the finish harden for a couple of weeks before rubbing it out. Things like conversion varnish can take some work to rub out, but it can be done (not sure I'd recommend it, though I did it on an electric guitar body to good effect).

For decorative objects shellac is beautiful, is quick to apply, and rubs out or polishes up quickly and nicely. Shellac buffed with wax is gorgeous and feels nice. You have the added flexibility of colors from garnet and ruby to blonde to slightly enrich the colors. If it doesn't need water/alcohol resistance, or to withstand a lot of handling, shellac is really hard to beat.

 

[Richard Coers]

Buy an assortment of Abralon by Mirka. Use the course grit for a flat finish, the finest grit will give you gloss.

 

[Dean Center]

I use the gray scotchbrite material to reduce gloss with a WOP finish, then buff as Roger suggests. As you point out, though, sometimes it seems to work better than others.