I have two honing "sticks/paddles," I think one purple and one green, no idea what the grits might be. Purple doesn't seem to remove metal fast enough to be practical, the green feels very coarse in use as if leaving scratches. Also have a found metal honing plate, likely diamond, that also doesn't seem to remove metal fast enough to be practical. So I'm wondering what "grit" honing devices other use to touch up the cutting edge on bowl gouges. I understand very well the technique, and get narrow shiny lines at cutting edge and heel (hollow grind) but don't see improvement in the surface.
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Cutting Edge Honing Grit
- Thread starter Don Stephan
- Start date
I have three el cheapo Chinese, no grit numbers just coarse, fine and super fine. The coarse isnt that coarse so it gets used most of the time. But what I have done is insert a 1000grit diamond lapping plate in the centre of my CBN wheel, this takes care much of my hand honing
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Grit size does not affect the finish quality of the cut except when using the edge as a shear scraper. I have a diamond scraper that has 300 and 1000 grit. I mist often use 1000 simply because it removes less steel.
What I have found it can have an effect of edge durability, using 1000grit to produce an edge will produce a keener and more durable edge. The finish of course is due to technique and species has art to play as well.
OK, I'm trying to picture it and sort of curious what it looks like...
Didnt have any images earlier on, its a 150mm disc or 6", 16mm bore, of course you have move the sharpening gear around. But it works well and the discs are not expensive on eBay
Attachments
I’ve tested several hand-held diamond honing things - for the most part I stick with one brand, the EZE-LAP honing paddles. These are, from the top, super fine, fine, and medium. I like them so much I contacted the manufacturer years ago and bought a lifetime supply at a good discount. I have no idea what the grit “numbers” are.
I have them in five different grits in all grits but for turning tools I mostly use the super fine. I don’t remember what color the next coarser one is but the coarsest has a black handle.
Other diamond and ceramic hones are useful for some things: long tapered, etc. I have larger, thick diamond plates but rarely use them.
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I like these better than some others because of the way they are made. For use, I hold the end of the handle against my palm and put the tip of my pointer finger on in the curved area just behind the diamond plate - this gives me more control when honing gouges and such,
I also use them when sharpening hand scrapers, both along with a little jig I made to flatten the edge, and to remove the any sharpening burr from the corners before turning a burr with a carbide burnisher.
As for bowl, spindle gouges, scrapers, and skews, I may use the extra fine to touch up the edge once or twice, then it’s back to the 600 CBN grinding wheel or 1200 grit Tormek wheel to resharpen, removing the grinding burr with the leather wheels on the Tormek. I want shaving sharp tools.
I do the same for scrapers and NRS, sharpening on 600 grit CBN and removing the grinder burr with the superfine diamond paddle before turning a burr with a hand-held burnisher. I just do it what I’ve learned what works for me over years of trying different things.
JKJ
I have them in five different grits in all grits but for turning tools I mostly use the super fine. I don’t remember what color the next coarser one is but the coarsest has a black handle.
Other diamond and ceramic hones are useful for some things: long tapered, etc. I have larger, thick diamond plates but rarely use them.
,
I like these better than some others because of the way they are made. For use, I hold the end of the handle against my palm and put the tip of my pointer finger on in the curved area just behind the diamond plate - this gives me more control when honing gouges and such,
I also use them when sharpening hand scrapers, both along with a little jig I made to flatten the edge, and to remove the any sharpening burr from the corners before turning a burr with a carbide burnisher.
As for bowl, spindle gouges, scrapers, and skews, I may use the extra fine to touch up the edge once or twice, then it’s back to the 600 CBN grinding wheel or 1200 grit Tormek wheel to resharpen, removing the grinding burr with the leather wheels on the Tormek. I want shaving sharp tools.
I do the same for scrapers and NRS, sharpening on 600 grit CBN and removing the grinder burr with the superfine diamond paddle before turning a burr with a hand-held burnisher. I just do it what I’ve learned what works for me over years of trying different things.
JKJ
Well, for coring blades/tips, I use coarser stones, like 220. For shear scraping, I use a burnisher to form a burr. Much more durable than the grinder burr. I guess it depends.... Some lapping fluid can help as well.
robo hippy
robo hippy