Current best options for bowl sanding tools?

[Scott Horton]

It was on instagram. The following link:

Emiliano Achaval on Instagram: "Sanding tip! The most boring yet most important part of woodturning. Thank you to @turningwood.com_ for the great soft pads and the tips during your demo!! This is a Kou natural edge bowl. #keawoodturningstudio #hawa

229 likes, 3 comments - maui_woodturner on November 11, 2022: "Sanding tip! The most boring yet most important part of woodturning. Thank you to @turningwood.com_ for the great soft pads and the tips..."

www.instagram.com

May or may not work for you. Instagram is weird sometimes.

Thanks. Link worked.

 

[Paul Grenier]

I have tried the Inertia Sanders and found them mostly useless. I have a Sioux Angled Sander, which while it works is heavy,and somewhat awkward for the inside of bowls. I've switched to Ken Rizza'a small Pneumatic Random Orbit sander and haven't looked back.

 

[Lars Hansen]

@James (#33):
The model is called GSR 12V-35 HX PROFESSIONAL

@Scott (#35):
I use sanding pads from Hope in the UK.
Sadly Simon Hope recently discontinued the ¼" hex shaft type, so I'm looking for a future supplier.

@Randy (#36):
Not being a production turner, I have no need for very fast sanding. The "2" speed setting of the Bosch suits me fine and never burnishes or cuts too deep.

The most important feature to me is the very short distance from your hand to the point where the sanding dics touches the wood. No strain on your wrist and forearm and easy access into tight curves.

 

[Mike Novak]

I’m new to the hobby (1 year) and don’t do volume production, so take this for what it’s worth.

Starting out, I had trouble with fingers, so I started using a random orbit palm sander on outside, and a drill with 2” pad for the inside.

After reading these forums, I have moved away from power sanders. I’m spending a little longer with the bowl gouge to get a better starting point, and I have improved my on lathe hand sanding.

I now wrap sandpaper around a worn out drywall sanding sponge or use fingers for the small areas. I run the lathe slow. Like 150 RPM for a 6” bowl. At this speed, the sandpaper does not heat up so it lasts much longer, and by using the sponge I’m using a large area the sandpaper so it goes quickly. For the fine scratches left at the end, a few seconds hand sanding with the grain takes care of them.

 

[Scott Horton]

@James (#33):
The model is called GSR 12V-35 HX PROFESSIONAL

@Scott (#35):
I use sanding pads from Hope in the UK.
Sadly Simon Hope recently discontinued the ¼" hex shaft type, so I'm looking for a future supplier.

@Randy (#36):
Not being a production turner, I have no need for very fast sanding. The "2" speed setting of the Bosch suits me fine and never burnishes or cuts too deep.

The most important feature to me is the very short distance from your hand to the point where the sanding dics touches the wood. No strain on your wrist and forearm and easy access into tight curves.

@Lars Hansen My little Bosch drivers only have 1 speed, older models than yours. Is your "2" setting faster or slower? I've had them for many years. I agree they are a good size for sanding. Problem may be pad holder compatibility though.

 

[robo hippy]

I will use 3 inch discs, well the over sized ones from Vince, because as some one commented the 3 inch disc has more than double the surface area of a 2 inch disc. That was a good tip because the 3 inch discs last a lot longer than the 2 inch discs. I keep a hard interface pad on till I get up to 180 or 220, then I switch to a medium interface pad. The reason is that in grits up to that 220 range, I am sanding, which means cutting and smoothing out any ripples. Yes, I still get some ripples.... Above 220, you are doing more buffing out abrasive scratches. I never go above 400 on my utility pieces. The reason is that since they are intended for daily use, it is a waste of time. If I do go above 400 grit, then I go to a soft interface pad. In grits above 400, you are pretty much polishing out scratches from the previous grit.

robo hippy

 

[Scott Horton]

I will use 3 inch discs, well the over sized ones from Vince, because as some one commented the 3 inch disc has more than double the surface area of a 2 inch disc. That was a good tip because the 3 inch discs last a lot longer than the 2 inch discs. I keep a hard interface pad on till I get up to 180 or 220, then I switch to a medium interface pad. The reason is that in grits up to that 220 range, I am sanding, which means cutting and smoothing out any ripples. Yes, I still get some ripples.... Above 220, you are doing more buffing out abrasive scratches. I never go above 400 on my utility pieces. The reason is that since they are intended for daily use, it is a waste of time. If I do go above 400 grit, then I go to a soft interface pad. In grits above 400, you are pretty much polishing out scratches from the previous grit.

robo hippy

What pads do you use? Who’s sandpaper?

 

[Steve Worcester]

We sell inertia sanders, but I am not a fan of them. Since it is totally dependant on the surface feet per minute of the work you are turning. Want it to go faster, turn the lathe speed up.
I have been using a cordless Milwaukee polisher (2438-22x) lately and I really like it. Use it on the lower speed.

 

[Scott Horton]

We sell inertia sanders, but I am not a fan of them. Since it is totally dependant on the surface feet per minute of the work you are turning. Want it to go faster, turn the lathe speed up.
I have been using a cordless Milwaukee polisher (2438-22x) lately and I really like it. Use it on the lower speed.

Steve. I like the look of that tool too. I can’t tell from its docs what kind of pads it uses. Are the Milwaukee proprietary or a universal fit?

 

[Lars Hansen]

Scott, the #2 setting is the fastest. Sorry, I'm not familiar with the older model and don't know what rpm it runs.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I have been using the Milwaukee M12 cordless sander/polisher that Steve mentioned and really like it for its compact form and high rpm (up to 2800 rpm in low range). I have a spindle adapter to go from the metric thread to SAE. I use a Grex pneumatic random orbit sander for the final grit in the sequence on interior surfaces- it's an air hog relative to its power but gives a finer finish than a rotary sander. For exterior surfaces I use a Festool 5" random orbit sander. I use both 2" and 3" discs on the smaller sanders depending on the curvature and use interface pads on Roloc mandrels from Woodturners Wonders. I also use the Woodturners Wonders inertia sander with the long handle to get inside hollow forms.

 

[robo hippy]

I use the blue discs from VincesWoodNWonders. He doesn't send me samples any more because I don't turn as much. The blue stuff just cuts far longer than any other abrasive I have tried, and with the samples he sent me, none seemed to cut better than the blue and I always went back to it. The Abranet seems to be good stuff. My experiments with it seemed to indicate that in the coarser grits, like up to 220 or so, the standard abrasives would cut faster, and my guess is that there is more abrasives on the solid discs than the mesh discs. Once you get to 220 and above, that does not seem to be an issue. I like Vince's firm pad more than any other. It has a 1/4 round profile on the edge which makes it fit into the transition area of a bowl far better than one that has a square edge. Vince's discs are over sized. I prefer that to one that is the same size as your interface pad. The hook part of the discs can leave serious scratches in your work if your disc is not perfectly centered, and how often does that happen? I have been wanting to get some of the 3M cubitron abrasives. At present, they are only available in 2 and 3 inch discs. If you have a lot of details on your bowls, like beads, then you do have to stay back from them a bit to avoid losing the 'crispness' of the details. I prefer a smooth outside and inside. Some consider that to be boring, but I don't have any problems selling everything I make....

robo hippy

 

[Scott Horton]

I have been using the Milwaukee M12 cordless sander/polisher that Steve mentioned and really like it for its compact form and high rpm (up to 2800 rpm in low range). I have a spindle adapter to go from the metric thread to SAE. I use a Grex pneumatic random orbit sander for the final grit in the sequence on interior surfaces- it's an air hog relative to its power but gives a finer finish than a rotary sander. For exterior surfaces I use a Festool 5" random orbit sander. I use both 2" and 3" discs on the smaller sanders depending on the curvature and use interface pads on Roloc mandrels from Woodturners Wonders. I also use the Woodturners Wonders inertia sander with the long handle to get inside hollow forms.

Yes, the Grex is to air hungry for my small compressor. re the Milwalkee, can you elaborate on your interface adapter? WTW site doesn't specify what female thread is in their Roloc Mandrel.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

re the Milwalkee, can you elaborate on your interface adapter? WTW site doesn't specify what female thread is in their Roloc Mandrel.

The one I am using on the Milwaukee has a 12-24 female thread, but I also have a couple with a 1/4-20 thread. I believe the tool arbor is 9 x .75mm female.

 

[Scott Horton]

The one I am using on the Milwaukee has a 12-24 female thread, but I also have a couple with a 1/4-20 thread. I believe the tool arbor is 9 x .75mm female.

I meant, besides that, where did you find the adapters?

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I meant, besides that, where did you find the adapters?

On amazon or ebay.

 

[Dave Hulett]

never saw the advantage of any angle drill. I use a 12v dewalt cordless with a 6" extension and 2" pads. Works great and I can get into any place an angle drill can and it's a whole lot lighter

 

[hockenbery]

Inertial sanders are great for some things worthless on others and they don’t work off the lathe at all.
Great for spheres and ornament balls.

I use a 3/8 90 degree makita reversible .drill for most work.
We have 2 that are about 30 years old one stopped going in reverse about 15 years ago.
These have gone way way up in price. They are comfortable to hold one and two handed. Work great off the lathe.
The paddle switch is easy to use. I often slide a finger under the paddle to limit the speed.
Reverse is nice when sanding off the lathe.
The 90 degree puts everything close tho the work makes it easy to sand a hollow form on your lap.


I do some sanding with rotary flex shaft carver. We have Foredomes. These a great for carved or uneven surfaces. Great with various small drums and the 3M bristle discs. They work with the Velcro pad disc but I find that uncomfortable for me to use very long.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Inertial sanders are great for some things worthless on others and they don’t work off the lathe at all.
Great for spheres and ornament balls.

I use a 3/8 90 degree makita reversible .drill for most work.
We have 2 that are about 30 years old one stopped going in reverse about 20 years ago.
These have gone way way up in price. They are comfortable to hold one and two handed. Work great off the lathe.
The paddle switch is easy to use. I often slide a finger under the paddle to limit the speed.
Reverse is nice when sanding off the lathe.
View attachment 48494

You must have bigger hands than I. I have one of those but it never occurred to me to try it for bowl sanding - It would definitely be heavy and awkward for me compared to my Sioux angle drill, Grex r.o. or the little lightweight Milwaukee sander polisher. I occasionally use arbor extensions if nothing else will do but I find they increase runout and decrease control. I much prefer a compact tool I can use one-handed and get the nose in close to the work. Long barrel right angle tools would seem to work best for platters and shallow/large radius vessels. To each his own.

Those Makita drills are good in their place though. Mine is 30 years old and is always in my cabinet install drill box. Mine has a screw stop on the paddle to limit top speed.

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

I use the blue discs from VincesWoodNWonders. He doesn't send me samples any more because I don't turn as much. The blue stuff just cuts far longer than any other abrasive I have tried, and with the samples he sent me, none seemed to cut better than the blue and I always went back to it. The Abranet seems to be good stuff. My experiments with it seemed to indicate that in the coarser grits, like up to 220 or so, the standard abrasives would cut faster, and my guess is that there is more abrasives on the solid discs than the mesh discs. Once you get to 220 and above, that does not seem to be an issue. I like Vince's firm pad more than any other. It has a 1/4 round profile on the edge which makes it fit into the transition area of a bowl far better than one that has a square edge. Vince's discs are over sized. I prefer that to one that is the same size as your interface pad. The hook part of the discs can leave serious scratches in your work if your disc is not perfectly centered, and how often does that happen? I have been wanting to get some of the 3M cubitron abrasives. At present, they are only available in 2 and 3 inch discs. If you have a lot of details on your bowls, like beads, then you do have to stay back from them a bit to avoid losing the 'crispness' of the details. I prefer a smooth outside and inside. Some consider that to be boring, but I don't have any problems selling everything I make....

robo hippy

I love the blue discs. They work really well and hog off lots of wood!

 

[hockenbery]

You must have bigger hands than I. I have one of those but it never occurred to me to try it for bowl sanding - It would definitely be heavy and awkward for me compared to my Sioux angle drill, Grex r.o. or the little lightweight Milwaukee sander

To each his own.

Those Makita drills are good in their place though. Mine is 30 years old and is always in my cabinet install drill box. Mine has a screw stop on the paddle to limit top speed.

I find the 90 degree more comfortable than the 45 angle. You are the opposite - makes it all fun to have differences.

I do mostly hollow forms and do most of my sanding off the lathe.
Mine has a screw stop on the paddle too. I just find it a whole lot quicker to slide a finger under the paddle

 

[Doug Freeman]

Corded Drill speed control for sanding - all the models discussed have some form of paddle/lever speed control. I found it a pita to try to maintain just the speed I wanted, particularly during an all day sanding marathon (finish up many pieces together).

I use a router speed control to set the speed I want, and hold or tie down the drill lever. Hand/fingers dont get as tired, no overspeed screw ups, hold the drill different ways, etc. Lot more control and less fatigue. I use the one from HF (which is adj inside the box) for less than $20.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I use the Ridgid JobMax with the hex bit attachment. Have a battery powered also but figure the battery will drop out in mid job so corded works.

 

[Dave Hulett]

I have tried the Inertia Sanders and found them mostly useless. I have a Sioux Angled Sander, which while it works is heavy,and somewhat awkward for the inside of bowls. I've switched to Ken Rizza'a small Pneumatic Random Orbit sander and haven't looked back.

I'm with you. ... completely. not impressed with inertia sanders and recently bought a Rizza 2" RBO. haven't been able to use it much yet, but early impression is I think it's going to be good.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I wonder if anyone has experience with this Bosch adjustable head drill? Curiously, while reading this thread last week, my Neiko (from Amazon) angle drill fried a bearing. It still runs, but sounds like a can of rocks. The rear bearing holder is just part of the plastic case, which somewhat melted and deformed. It seems to be the red version of WW’s angle drill. On his site, Ken shows his opened up, and it looks identical to the inside of mine. I don’t see any difference between the two, other than the color of the case, so have decided to upgrade a bit. If this were corded, I’d be jumping at it, as I generally like Bosch tools.

 

[odie]

I wonder if anyone has experience with this Bosch adjustable head drill? Curiously, while reading this thread last week, my Neiko (from Amazon) angle drill fried a bearing. It still runs, but sounds like a can of rocks. The rear bearing holder is just part of the plastic case, which somewhat melted and deformed. It seems to be the red version of WW’s angle drill. On his site, Ken shows his opened up, and it looks identical to the inside of mine. I don’t see any difference between the two, other than the color of the case, so have decided to upgrade a bit. If this were corded, I’d be jumping at it, as I generally like Bosch tools.

Battery operated tools have come a long way since their beginnings, but I'm having a hard time understanding why someone would choose one if working at a single station where a power outlet was readily available.

That swivel head design of the Bosch does look like something bowl turners might find useful.....

-----odie-----

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I agree Odie, but just can’t find anything like this that is corded. I’ve had a Bosch cordless drill for over a decade that still gives good service, and reasonably long charges. This one looks like it could be comfortable in the hand, and could double as a backup drill when needed away from the lathe.

 

[odie]

my Neiko (from Amazon) angle drill fried a bearing. It still runs, but sounds like a can of rocks. The rear bearing holder is just part of the plastic case, which somewhat melted and deformed. It seems to be the red version of WW’s angle drill. On his site, Ken shows his opened up, and it looks identical to the inside of mine. I don’t see any difference between the two, other than the color of the case

There was a discussion about this at one time.....might have been on a forum somewhere else......can't remember. I sold the Nieko drill that I had, so can't do any direct comparisons, but the drivetrain of the industrial grade Milwaukee and Sioux 55° angle drills were noted to be more heavy duty than the Chinese knock-offs. They might be OK for someone who only occasionally use their drill for sanding, but for someone like me who is active in bowl turning every day of the week, year after year, I really do need the more durable innards of the Milwaukee drills I've been using.

Too bad Milwaukee and Sioux both discontinued the old-style shape that was so applicable to bowl turning.....but, they can still be readily had on eBay in "used" condition. I have bought a bunch of them and have them in storage.....anywhere from NIB to good slightly used condition. In 40 years of constant bowl turning, I've worn out several of them, but I now have what I think is a lifetime supply of the Milwaukee 55° drills.

Expect to pay more than the Chinese knock-offs for a good used one, but IMHO, it's a good buy for what the intended purpose is.

-----odie-----

 

[Dave Landers]

I fried 2 of the niko

Curiously, while reading this thread last week, my Neiko (from Amazon) angle drill fried a bearing. It still runs, but sounds like a can of rocks. The rear bearing holder is just part of the plastic case, which somewhat melted and deformed.

I burned up 2 of those Neiko drills in as many years (plus the one I Frankenstein'ed from the parts of the other 2). I'm now using this Milwaukee - had it for 3-1/2 years, still good. Maybe not as good as whatever antique Odie uses but miles beyond the Neiko. Only thing I don't really like is there's no speed control - but I made my own limiter (added a screw to the trigger).

 

[Lars Hansen]

@ Lou (#65):
Yep, I own one. Runs fine but a bit too slow for my taste. And more important: It's shape and weight makes it heavy to handle.
It comes in really handy, though, when used with the head angeled at 90° in really tight spaces.

 

[Ric Williams]

I bought myself one of the Makita DA301 right angle drills for Christmas a couple years ago and haven't looked back. I have average size hands and arthritis in both hands and find the Makita much more comfortable than the usual angled drills. I found the one sold by WTW to be more awkward in size and balance. The Makita fits my hand better and the paddle trigger is easier on my arthritis, plus the Makita is quieter and runs smoother. Just my $0.02...

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Good feedback all. Thank you!

 

[Neil S]

As is often the case, I’ve gone in a slightly different direction. This is a Guinevere cable drive, powered by a stationary motor, or in my case a defunct craftsman lathe headstock.

I find two advantages over using a drill as a sander. First is noise. A lot from the drill and almost none from my set-up. (I find that high noise levels in the shop add stress and reduces the amount of time I can spend without fatigue)
The second thing is handling/maneuverability. I’m comfortable handling this overhand, underhand or like a pencil.
Its fitted with a 3inch soft sanding pad and Norton 3x disks.

The restrictions are that it only goes forward. If your lathe reverses, that isn’t an issue. If you push hard, which you shouldn’t, the cable wants to wind up.

View attachment 48446

Likewise, I went over to a similar arrangement of my own construction for the same reasons. The motor on mine is reversible so I added a reverse switch. Many flexible drive cables are constructed to only run in one direction, but I found one source that will run in both directions and I've been using that one cable now for quite a few years. The motor runs at slower revs than a drill, which is OK for the the finer grits but occasionally I would prefer it to be a bit faster for the coarser grits. I use Tim Skilton's drill mandrels and Vince's interface pads on those. I have a separate mandrel/pad for every size and grit I use. The chuck on the flex shaft allows for a quick keyless change of grit/pad size as I work up through the grits.

​

PS - If you prefer an inertia sander, my turning colleague and friend Tim Skilton makes one that has a good reputation and is sold through multiple outlets here and in the US through...

TurningWood.com: Skilton Passive Sander Handle 2" Mandrel w/free 3" Mandrel!

Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: Skilton Sander

Skilton Passive Sander Handle & Pads - Lee Valley Tools

www.leevalley.com

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I burned up 2 of those Neiko drills in as many years (plus the one I Frankenstein'ed from the parts of the other 2). I'm now using this Milwaukee - had it for 3-1/2 years, still good. Maybe not as good as whatever antique Odie uses but miles beyond the Neiko. Only thing I don't really like is there's no speed control - but I made my own limiter (added a screw to the trigger).

Dave, I just found the Milwaukee you showed on eBay and bought it. Arrived today. It looks unused and runs fine, for $69. Only problem, it came without a chuck key! Contacted seller who quoted listing which said “exactly as shown here.” Listing didn’t show a chuck key. None of my other keys from other drills is a fit, but I got Milwaukee customer service who are sending me one for $6 plus shipping. They weren’t sure how much shipping would be, but thought about $5. Still happy with my purchase, but no key, really?

 

[Dave Hulett]

I have been using a 12v dewalt with a 6" extension/2" pads and pretty happy with it. Recently bought one of Woodtuner Wonders 2" RBO. It has a right angle head and small due to air power. Jury's still out on that one. I had a right angle drill once but didn't find any advantage at all and returned it. But the Bosch with an adjustable angle sounds very interesting. The last thing I need is introducing another battery system into my shop...... but will take look at it.

 

[Sarah S Elkind]

The passive sander work OK IF you have enough surface area that does turn the sander, so on the outside of bowls that works good enough, but on say the inside of a bowl, it won't work at all close to the center.
I have a home build one and I have used it a few times, but as I said only on the outside of the large enough turnings, these sanders do not work as well as a powered one where you can control the speed of the disk regardless of where on the turning you are sanding View attachment 48403

I’m kind of sorry to learn this. Your explanation of the shortcomings of passive sanders makes sense. I was attracted to them as an elegant design.

 

[hockenbery]

I’m kind of sorry to learn this. Your explanation of the shortcomings of passive sanders makes sense. I was attracted to them as an elegant design.

Passive sanders are like most tools in that they are good at some tasks and poor at others and you need to develop a technique that works for you.
The center inside a bowl doesn’t move enough at any rpm to energize an inertial sander. - not good inside a bowl

An ornament ball or sphere will energize the inertial sander over the whole surface
It’s an excellent tool for these and doesn’t leave sanding scratches.

I usually sand hollow forms and NE bowls off the lathe - inertial sander doesn’t work well here either.

Depending on the task I choose a power sander, inertial sander, paper….

Many of the turners in my club use inertial sanders for appropriate tasks.

You can try an inertial sander by making one in 2 minutes. Drill a 45 degree blind hole the diameter of your Velcro disc mandrel shaft on a 6-8” length of broom handle. stick the waxed mandrel shaft in the hole. It will work quite nicely until the hole wears and it begins to wobble. By then you should know if you want to get or make one with bearings.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

/snip/snip/ Curiously, while reading this thread last week, my Neiko (from Amazon) angle drill fried a bearing. It still runs, but sounds like a can of rocks. The rear bearing holder is just part of the plastic case, which somewhat melted and deformed. It seems to be the red version of WW’s angle drill. On his site, Ken shows his opened up, and it looks identical to the inside of mine. I don’t see any difference between the two, other than the color of the case, so have decided to upgrade a bit. If this were corded, I’d be jumping at it, as I generally like Bosch tools.

I have a Milwaukee 55 degree drill I use for sanding, it was when my son was using it that it started to sound bad, so he stopped using it and called me about it, I got it and opened it up, the rear bearing being only a shielded bearing had gotten wood dust in it and had seized up and then had turned in the plastic housing and melt/wear the bearing opening.

So as I had nothing to loose, I removed the bearing and got a new sealed bearing, made some 2 part epoxy and put some on the housing where the bearing sits, closed the housing with a small gap, so that there would be some clamping on the bearing when closing it after it was done.

Next day opened the housing and with a razor-blade knife cut the pressed out epoxy away and reassembled the drill.

This happened several years ago, and the drill is used any time I need it, works just like before.

So yes you can fix yours if you like, it will cost you some time, a bit of epoxy and a sealed bearing

These are my sanding drills, the Skill variable speed trigger switch stopped working, and so I replace that one with a new drill.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Thanks Leo! You’ve inspired and challenged me. I’ll see if I can get the bearing off and effect a similar fix. It’d be good to have a spare to turn to if need be.

 

[Lennart Delin]

My main option is a ordinary drill. However, to make it easy to change grit I have modified quick release sanding discs with a foam layer and velcro fastening. Just a second to change grit. For stationary sanding I think carbatecs contour sanding is outstanding. https://www.arbortechtools.com/us/shop-online/power-carving/attachments-accessories/contour-sander