Copper pipe for ferrule

[Alex Ku]

Copper pipe for ferrules

Brass ferrules or brass compression nuts are not exactly cheap.

Is there anything wrong with using copper water pipe for ferrules?

Thanks,
Alex

 

[KurtB]

Ferrule

I have used both, and have not noticed any difference as far as the tools go. The copper pipe should be the straight sections, though, because the coiled stuff is so soft it does not like being cut.
Kurt

 

[nicktodd]

ferrules

I have used copper pipe and electrical conduit. All worked great.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Brass pipe nipples used to be cheap, but the price took a big jump about a year ago. Fortunately (for me), I have a stash of brass nipples that I bought before the price increase. I have salvaged used brass plumbing fixtures to get usable parts.

 

[Alex Ku]

Yep. Brass is expensive now.
Larger brass compression nut costs $7 (for one) at our local hardware store.

 

[Greg_Haugen]

There's nothing wrong with Copper at all. I usually buy 18" or 2 ft. lengths of pipe at the hardware store, along with a pipe cutter-you'd have alot of ferrules. I've also been making ferrules out of nylon braided cord, per David Ellsworth's instructions. I really like those as well-most of the my tools I'm handling has "cord" ferrules, it's also a nice "identifer" for your tools to have a certain color or pattern for the ferrule.

 

[Alex Ku]

I've also been making ferrules out of nylon braided cord, per David Ellsworth's instructions.

Greg,

Do you have a link to this instruction?

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Mike Hunter]

Another choice

The hardware stores generally have a great selection of springs. These springs are available in all diameters and lengths. Just grind off sections to your needed length.

Merry Christmas to all.

 

[rsser]

For smaller size spindle and bowl gouges you don't need ferrules at all.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Greg,

Do you have a link to this instruction?

Thanks,
Alex

It is in his video on hollow turning.

 

[Brian Hahn]

I use copper water pipe for most of my ferrules. It's a great way to use up the small leftovers and salvaged sections of pipe. Many of my ferrules still have traces of solder on them.

 

[jffink]

Greg,

Do you have a link to this instruction?

Thanks,
Alex

The instructions are also in the new book "Ellsworth on Woodturning" (that I just received as a Christmas gift). In essence, he turns a recess like one would for a metal ferrule, whips that recessed area with nylon cord and coats the whipping with superglue. The whipping appears to be the same procedure as I learned years ago for whipping the end of ropes to keep them from unraveling. I expect that a google search would turn up instructions for whipping (though you'll probably also get links to S&M sites).

Merry Christmas to all!

John

 

[Alex Ku]

John,

what diameter of cord David Ellsworth is using?

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Joe Greiner]

Mason's twine is a good source of 100% nylon cord. The size is listed as #18 (whatever that means) - seems to be about 1/16" or 1.5mm. May be available in many colors to help identify particular tools if you like.

I have a stash of brass plumbing fittings, from a garage sale several years ago, so I haven't tried the pipe route yet.

Joe

 

[Greg_Haugen]

Alex,
You've gotten great feedback on ferrules. The instructions are in Ellsworth's "T" tape, now called "tools for hollow turning". It is also in his new book, which I highly recommend for any turner-bowl or vessel turner or not something can be gained from that book for anyone. I'd go to a local craft shop to look at their "braided nylon" cord selections. The stuff I'm currently using is more than a 1/16" and slightly under an 1/8". Basically, a loop is made on one side (and a "tail" on the other) is made over the recessed area and then the cord is wrapped over the loop. When it's fully wrapped the end of the cord that was being wrapped is placed into the loop end, then by pulling the "tail" it will pull the looped end (and the loose end of the wrap)slides under about half way back under the wrap. If you go to far, just wrap it again. I run a steady bead of CA (thick, is what I have and use) around the front and back of the wrap and then zig zap over all of it. After smearing the CA into the wrap with a finger, wiping off your finger in some shavings before you glue yourself to something, a spritz of accelerator and it's done. Better instructions are in the book or on the video, but that's the basics of it.


Mike Hunter's tip about using the springs is another excellent option. I haven't done that yet but I've been able to see it on other turners handles.

 

[bob elliott]

Do you have a link to this instruction?

Thanks,
Alex

This is not the greatest pictorial, but you may get something from this. My grandmother taught me this method back when I was a Cub Scout.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I have considered using copper pipe for a ferule. Good idea, thanks.
Wyatt

 

[Jim Curlee]

I use 3/4" copper pipe couplings. they cost less than 2 bucks each. Depending on the length of ferule you want you could get 2 ferules out of each coupling.

 

[kenvalaska]

Knife builders and "old salts" use decorative wraps to hold things together, add texture for grips, and to just look good. Google search of knife making supply sites will have tutorials for plain and more fancy wraps.
Ashley's book of knots has pages of decorative wraps. Seine line is used locally as being all nylon and a top dressing of epoxy seals it nicely (System 3 207 hardner is popular).

Ken Vaughhan in Juneau Alaska

 

[jffink]

John,

what diameter of cord David Ellsworth is using?

Thanks,
Alex

The cord diameter isn't specified in the book, but from the pictures, I'd guess that it is about one-eighth of an inch. I doubt that the cord diameter is very critical — it just needs to be strong enough to do the job, whatever one believes that to be. Here's a quote from "Ellsworth on Woodturning" in which David defines the ferrule's job:

"A lot of the ferrules I see on homemade and commercial tool handles are too small in diameter to do their job. One ferrule I saw allowed only 1/8" of solid wood between it and the shaft, and I doubt that it would have held under stress. I don't believe a ferrule is supposed to keep the handle from breaking away if you get a severe dig in the wood. It's there to keep the shaft from flying out of the broken handle." — David Ellsworth

I have never broken a turning tool, and I'm not an engineer, but I suspect that a properly sized metal ferrule, being stronger than a "nylon cord plus superglue" ferrule, would make the handle less likely to fail in the event of a major dig in. However, one might wonder if a properly sized nylon cord ferrule would be safer precisely because it could allow the handle to fail in a somewhat controlled way during a dangerous dig in. Sometimes failure is a good thing.

By the way, I've used scrap copper pipe for ferrules on homemade handles.

Regards,
John

 

[BNeddow]

Copper pipe for ferrules

I made quite a number of copper ferrules over the years but stopped after hearing comments by Allan Batty at the Utah Symposium. He insisted that copper ferrules break and that you should only use brass. Has anyone had this experience?

Recently I have been using oilit bearing, which are quite inexpensive compared to brass, and were recommended to me by the bearing dealer I frequent.

 

[Brian Hahn]

I made quite a number of copper ferrules over the years but stopped after hearing comments by Allan Batty at the Utah Symposium. He insisted that copper ferrules break and that you should only use brass. Has anyone had this experience?

Actually, I've had exactly the opposite experience. I've had a number of thin brass ferrules break - apparently just from the expansion of the wood with changes in humidity. But I've never had a copper water pipe ferrule break.

 

[john lucas]

I've tried them all. Copper is OK but comes loose over the years. The same with smooth brass ferrule's. I've also used aluminum. I score the insides with a steel scribe and then use epoxy and they last a long time before coming loose but eventually the wood movement breaks the bond.
Any string will work. I've use Dental floss, braided nylon, and just plain string. I soak the string with thin CA after lashing it on. It lasts a long time but eventually also has to be replaced.
I still think the Brass compresson nuts and brass sweated copper to threaded adaptors work the best. I never worried much about the price because these things last forever. I have some very old tools with them.