Gray backdrop 2700K LED / 5000K LED
Bounced off cieling
View attachment 29148 View attachment 29149
Here is my primary rule when shooting: The eye will always be drawn first to stand-out colors (like the blue highlight) or the brightest area of the image (highlights and background). If your goal is to draw the eye to that portion then great -- if not, then you need to do something to diminish the draw.
Little things first:
<Ahem> One of the first things I notice is the blue highlights from the window! You need to completely block it or shoot at night.
Next is the specular highlight in both images to the right of center about 1/3 down from the rim. That's a secondary light that I feel is unneeded because the first image is completely lit from above and behind the turning and the highlight in question doesn't appear to be adding much fill. If you recreate the first image's setup, use white bounce cards to fill the front and lower portion of the turning.
Now on to the main light: Is it adjustable in its color range (i.e., the 2700k/5000k you noted)? The second image is much better for color accuracy, so do that from now on.
I prefer the main light's placement in the first image as I'd rather not see that bright reflection from it that appears in the second pic. However in
both images my next tip is to try to shade the light from falling so fully on the background above and behind the turning. (This goes back to the eye being drawn to bright areas.) You can accomplish this with large foam-core or similar sturdy cardstock. Choose either white or black color as you don't want to introduce a color cast from light reflecting off a colored material. Make sure that whatever you use doesn't cast its shadow on the turning. The goal is to tone down that bright area so that the top of the turning is a brighter element than the background.
I think you're getting closer to where you want to go, so keep at it!