Collet Based Quick Change Handles

[Pat Patterson]

I have been playing around with removable handles for the past few months. Two approaches. Black pipe and a set screw. Not very pretty but they work fine. Second one I used a thumb screw to make toolless. The other 3 use brass compression fittings. They tighten with about 1/4 turn with a wrench
Easy to make and so far work fine.
Pat

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[Scott Horton]

I'm liking @Dennis Weiner 's plan of using a 3/4 modular handle. And getting or making your own bushings. Then every tool can fundamentally be adapted to being a 3/4 tool with a bushing. If I had deep pockets Ashley's system looks very nice. And that's fundamentally what she's doing I think. Unlike a ER collet system, with a cam system, I'd not expect the 3/4 handle to be substantially different weight than a 5/8.

After checking out the Vicmarc handle, it seems to check all the boxes. Cam style, hollow handle, but the handle is covered in a softish PVC (not foam) that has flats on both sides. I really like the flats addition. Vicmarc pointed me to a nice guy in CA who ships to the US and has them in stock. Eh, I may hate it and go back to wood handles but I figure now, when I'm new is a good time to start off with a plan that has some flexibility.

The only think I don't like on the Vicmarc is the (ugly to me) blue color. Then again, I won't have any trouble finding it LOL.

Oh, and the Vicmac handles are pretty fat relatively @1.6" (1.5" at the flat), compared to everyone else who's pretty consistently at 1.25". I don't have the experience to know if this will be a pro or a con.

Vicmarc Turning Tools | Branches to Bowls

Quality Turning Tools by Vicmarc

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Tool Handles

Tool Handles Turning tools

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[Mark Jundanian]

I can't see the problem. That's a lovely blue color.

 

[Dennis Weiner]

The two Vicmarc handles are approximately 14" & 18" long. Good sizes for most turning and reasonably priced. If I bought only one, it would be the 18" because I do more bowls and forms than spindle turning. I think that this would be a good start. However, down the road, you may need other lengths depending on the direction you take in the types of items you may turn.

 

[Clifton C]

Scott, here is my little story about fat handles, pro or con...

I remember a young lady, well into her eighties, in a handle making class who turned an almost two inch diameter egg shaped swell just behind the ferrel. I made some sort of comment as to the clunky look, but she, having wisdom and being kind, explained that thinner handles aggravated her arthritis and she was so looking forward to turning with a handle she had made herself, and one that wasn’t modified with a big clunky blob of sticky duct tape (her fix for skinny handles). I showed her how to wire burn some decorative lines and while I may have been a bit biased, by the end of the class I thought her handle was the best looking of the bunch…

Ps. Just to be clear... I am not trying to talk you out of buying new tools ... Just relating why a larger diameter handle might be an advantage.

 

[Scott Horton]

Scott, here is my little story about fat handles, pro or con...

I remember a young lady, well into her eighties, in a handle making class who turned an almost two inch diameter egg shaped swell just behind the ferrel. I made some sort of comment as to the clunky look, but she, having wisdom and being kind, explained that thinner handles aggravated her arthritis and she was so looking forward to turning with a handle she had made herself, and one that wasn’t modified with a big clunky blob of sticky duct tape (her fix for skinny handles). I showed her how to wire burn some decorative lines and while I may have been a bit biased, by the end of the class I thought her handle was the best looking of the bunch…

Ps. Just to be clear... I am not trying to talk you out of buying new tools ... Just relating why a larger diameter handle might be an advantage.

Thanks Clifton. I wondered if the fatter handle wouldn't be easier on old hands like mine. One will by definition have more rotational control for the same amount of twist force. I've ordered a Vicmarc from the very nice gentleman in CA to give it a try. Plug for him here, I have no affiliation, Ken Rude, www.branchestobowls.com.

 

[Tom Yip]

Just completed these a few days back. In short, both Robust and Jimmy Clewes have their strength. Jimmy Clewes QR system uses a cam lock so it only accepts shank of one size unless you use an adapter. Robust uses collets. Collets are cheaper than the adapters and it's easier to switch tools. What's nice about the Jimmy Clewes's system is that the tool does not rotate further as the cam lock tightens. So if you like square handles like the Thompson's, it will be easier to align the flute of gouges to a handle surface.

 

[Scott Horton]

Just completed these a few days back. In short, both Robust and Jimmy Clewes have their strength. Jimmy Clewes QR system uses a cam lock so it only accepts shank of one size unless you use an adapter. Robust uses collets. Collets are cheaper than the adapters and it's easier to switch tools. What's nice about the Jimmy Clewes's system is that the tool does not rotate further as the cam lock tightens. So if you like square handles like the Thompson's, it will be easier to align the flute of gouges to a handle surface.

Tom, curious how you drilled the thompson handle?

 

[Tom Yip]

Tom, curious how you drilled the thompson handle?

Hi Scott, I don’t need to drill the Thompson handle. I called and placed an order of a handle without the nose. the no-nose handle has a hole with i.d. approximately 31/32 if I recall, and it’s a stepped hole, it’s slightly more narrow after 1.5” or so.

 

[Scott Horton]

Hi Scott, I don’t need to drill the Thompson handle. I called and placed an order of a handle without the nose. the no-nose handle has a hole with i.d. approximately 31/32 if I recall, and it’s a stepped hole, it’s slightly more narrow after 1.5” or so.

So the clews just fit? Nice.

 

[Tom Yip]

I need to turn a thin sleeve with hardwood to fill the gaps. So I got a piece of very hard scrap wood, drill a hole and then turn the outside. The QR chuck has a shank of 7/8”

Once the sleeve is done, test fit and epoxy the parts together. I did the glueing of the handle and sleeve first, then the chuck.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I need to turn a thin sleeve with hardwood to fill the gaps. So I got a piece of very hard scrap wood, drill a hole and then turn the outside. The QR chuck has a shank of 7/8”

Once the sleeve is done, test fit and epoxy the parts together. I did the glueing of the handle and sleeve first, then the chuck.

Or you can use one of these like I did for mine. Did have to finesse the outside a little with a file on the lathe.

Sleeve Bearing,I.D. 7/8,L 1-1/2

 

[Stan Pressner]

I had found it on their page, but no one carries them, a least not USA resellers.

Branches to Bowls has them.

 

[Scott Horton]

That’s where I got them. I’m all set now. Made my own bushings.

 

[Dave Hulett]

I'm interested in one of the ER collet quick change handle options out there. Like the one Robust makes. My experience with collets in other apps is it takes one move to tighten, and 2 to loosen. On my mill's ER32 collets for example, I tighten with a spanner wrench. When you loosen you have to first loosen the collet ring with the spanner, then turn it about a half turn where it gets tight again, then the second wrench loosening releases the tool. (First is loosening the ring, second is the ring pulling the collet out of the taper). Regular routers use these kind of collets, too and behave the same.

Seems like the other ER collet-in-a-handle options would behave similarly. What's your experience with them as far as the ability to hand tighten and hand loosen while still holding the tool safely? I'm a little worried about tool rotation if it's not tight, and how hard it is to get loose if it's properly tight.

I've considered these:
Woodcut Twin Collet (ER20)
Axminster (ER20) - comes with a "optional" spanner
Simon Hope Quick release (Acetal collets that advertise no lockup)
Jimmy Clewes (Don't know what's inside his)
Robust (ER25 or ER32)

Carter products makes an R8 collet based handle as well, but it would behave different than an ER. And theirs are solid metal which I'm not a big fan of.

@Steve Chaplin ? I saw in an old post you had one of them.

I own both the Robust and the Jimmy Clews QR. I wasn't crazy about the Robuse because of the weight. sold them (multiple collets) to another club member who like it for the same reason. go figure. I love the Clews QR's I have two of them. one for 1/2" shafts and another for 3/4" shafts. They are lightweight and work great. love 'em​

 

[Steve Chaplin]

I have the Robust ER 25 and 32 collets. They are a single turn to tighten/loosen. After loosening requires tapping the bottom of the handle against the something hard like lathe bed or workbench to loosen the tool.
There was an issue where a tool did not want to tighten up well because of being slightly undersized and the collet cover not having enough travel. Just putting an oring into the collet holder underneath the collet fixed this and I do this now for all the collet holders as also prevents any loosening with vibration.

 

[Doug Agee]

I have the Robust ER 25 and 32 collets. They are a single turn to tighten/loosen. After loosening requires tapping the bottom of the handle against the something hard like lathe bed or workbench to loosen the tool.
There was an issue where a tool did not want to tighten up well because of being slightly undersized and the collet cover not having enough travel. Just putting an oring into the collet holder underneath the collet fixed this and I do this now for all the collet holders as also prevents any loosening with vibration.

Great tip Steve. Do you happen to know the o ring size? I will need to get some. Thank you.

 

[Steve Chaplin]

I just grabbed them out of my kit. But did just measure, the ER32 is od 1 5/16" and the ER25 is 1". Both using a 1/8" section. I recommend getting a kit if you don't have one, always need o-rings.


Here is pics of the ER25:

 

[Doug Agee]

I just grabbed them out of my kit. But did just measure, the ER32 is od 1 5/16" and the ER25 is 1". Both using a 1/8" section. I recommend getting a kit if you don't have one, always need o-rings.

View attachment 52731 View attachment 52734
Here is pics of the ER25:

View attachment 52732 View attachment 52733

Thank you, Steve. I appreciate the info.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Old thread I know.

Why wouldn't one of these work? Too big? Heavy? Tool slips? Supposed to hold up to a 5/8 drill bit. $30