Cleaning out worm holes

[Raif Harik]

Hello, I was wondering if there was any easier way to clear out the bug poop from worm holes. I'm talking about the fairly dense material packed in the holes that you can get out with dental tools and air.
I'm thinking maybe if I soak it in something before or after it's turned? IDK but here's a piece that I just did. I was pickin poop outta that thing for hours. Got to where I had a pretty healthy understanding of each bugs digestive system. Not wanting to do this again.

 

[robo hippy]

One friend said he pressure washed the pieces to get the 'frass' out. I did the dental pick method once, and found out it was a lot of work. Some thin CA glue can solidify the frass so you can sand it. The problem with doing that is like the problems I had with natural edge bowls, one or two pieces of bark would fall off, or some one would pick the piece up by the bark and break it that way.......

robo hippy

 

[Marc Banka]

I leave it all in until I’ve finish sanded the piece, then remove. This keeps the edges sharp, not rounding over, which will happen if you remove it first.
Nice thin walls help, as most of it will push through, or even fall out on its own.
I clean them with pick and compressed air.

 

[Dave Landers]

It is a pain to remove. Like Marc, I remove the frass after the piece is turned and sanded.
I remove it, don't like leaving it in - even if "stabilized" I don't trust that I won't end up with a pile of dust under the piece sometime later.
I use a combination of dental picks, small burs in a dremel tool, compressed air - whatever works.
I also use those needle things for inflating footballs, and sorta sharpen the end so the air blows out straight instead of to the side. Sometimes helps - use it as a pick that also blows.

There have been several pieces where I decided the time involved in de-frass-ing was not worth what I'd end up with, so those got burned.

 

[Randy Anderson]

I've done my share of sitting at the bench picking it out and agree, I don't like to put CA on it and leave it. I've found that in addition to sharp little metal picks that the very small flat blade screwdrivers that you see hanging in a set at the drug store HW aisle work well. Cheap ones for very small screws, glasses, etc. I've always called them jewelers screwdrivers. The tiny flat blade acts like a mini scraper to drag it out and scrape the sides of the hole rather than just poking holes in it till it crumbles out.

 

[Monty Ivy]

I deal with bug holes by not dealing with them at all. Blanks and or first turnings that exhibit frass or holes larger than 1/8", are culled and added to the fire pit. Life is too short to turn crappy wood.

 

[Randy Anderson]

It's a tough call sometimes but I know that often some of the first things to sell at markets are natural edge bowls or vases with bug activity. I've often seen people go straight to it on the table and think it adds natural character to the piece. There's a fine line between too much and just enough, does it match the overall look of the piece, etc but it can be a great fit for some pieces and worth the effort.

 

[odie]

I have my air nozzle cranked up to 120psi, and after a direct shot, much of the gunk comes out. No need to worry much about what doesn't readily come loose. After the DO is applied, it acts as a glue and seals what's left in place. I did try some dental picks, but inevitably, you end up making the worm hole look worse. Still use the dental picks sometimes, but not to worry if bug stuff doesn't easily come loose.....don't get overly determined to clean up the holes. The end users don't seem to care about this as much as you do, and it's very true that they do consider bug holes to add character.

-o-

 

[Tom Gall]

Never tried this ... but it might work. Use a small wire wheel (1"ø or so) in a rotary tool (Foredom, Dremel, etc.) in combination with a dental pick type tool to loosen up the frass if necessary. 1) Turn piece to final shape - almost. 2) Clean out bug stuff. 3) Make a final cut or two to remove any wire wheel scratches or possible rounded edges. 4) Sand.

If anyone tries this please let us know the results.

 

[Dave Landers]

Life is too short to turn crappy wood.

This is true. However, each of us has our own definition of "crappy"

 

[Raif Harik]

Dang poop. I think for my money, or lack there of, I'll go with the suggestion of turning the walls a little thinner. I do think that would make the stuff come out easier, except of all the shallow ones. IDK, I'll give it a try.
Re crappy wood. I don't know what it is, but for some reason I seem to only use crappy wood. I think it's my new england puritan roots that make me feel like I'm not good enough to turn my good wood. I should save it till I'm worthy. Thanks mom.
Raif

 

[Will Armstrong]

I do like the character of my crappy wood and agree with Raif-- I do tend to save the best wood for something worthy or "special". I don't make a living from turning so I actually enjoy the time and process of digging out the holes. I find it meditative. I don't have a dental pick so I ground down an old drill bit.