Cleaning chuck and do you use a lubricant when reassembling?

[Arthur McViccar]

So one of my chucks was very hard to operate and I decided it was time. So I watched a couple of cleaning and care of videos on U Tube. One of the presenters suggested using Rem Oil on moving parts when reassembling. Took mine all apart, cleaned real well using toothbrush and compressed air. Reassembled now and working just fine. But it got me to thinking and I was wondering if other woodturners are using a lubricant when reassembling. Seems like I read somewhere years ago that it was not a good practice to use lubricant on a chuck. Apparently this oil dries and so leaves no residue behind to collect sawdust, wood chips, etc. But does provide a "slick" surface for mating parts that slide together. Your thoughts?

 

[hockenbery]

I have never lubicated my vicmarc 120 or 3 ONEWAY strongholds.
Never taken them apart
Blow them out with compressed air if I think about it. 4-5 times a year.
The vicmarc is baby of the bunch - bought it in 2007. The first strong hold in 1994.

 

[Ron Solfest]

I have never taken any of my Stronghold’s or Talon apart, but I blow the dust out a few times each year. I purchased another used Stronghold a few months ago that was pretty dirty and stiff. I blew it out well and then sprayed any crevices liberally with Boeshield T90, let it dry, and it works like new.

 

[Wally Crawford]

I finish on the lathe and eventually get a build up of shellac on the chuck. I have taken my Nova's apart, soaked in alcohol, cleaned with a brass "tooth brush" dusted with baby powder and reassembled. Work like new.

 

[Randy Anderson]

I blow mine out with an air hose from time to time when it feels like it needs it but don't take them apart. I have sprayed a bit of dry lube into the gears a few times over the years but only because I feel I'm supposed to do something for metal on metal moving parts. A good cleaning with the air hose always seems to get them moving easily again.

 

[Phil Hamel]

One of my cheap ones started rusting after turning a very wet piece of oak. I ended up taking it apart for cleaning and reassembly. It rusted again pretty quickly and started binding again. I took it apart the second time and gave it a good cleaning with a wire brush. I then coated it with a liberal amount of paste wax. Let it dry and buffed in. Hasn't rusted again and works great now!

 

[Doug Freeman]

I take each chuck I get, new or used, apart and clean with ms to get any oily greasy residue off, wipe down with a drying rust inhibitor (I use Alox), then use paste wax on all friction surfaces. Blow them out occasionally with an air hose after that.

Remoil is a good choice, it just takes a while to fully dry. A better choice is dupont Chain Saver (walmart, other places), dries faster, leaves a waxy coating behind. Best chain lube I’ve used in 50 yrs of motorcycle riding.

 

[Tom Gall]

As others have said - compressed air. I blow out the dust when finished using and sometimes while still in use.
Below is my reply to a similar post in March 2016. Do a search for more discussions on this subject.

I don't think I have ever disassembled a chuck to clean & lubricate. I bought my first 4-jaw chuck in 1991 (checked my inventory list ) and have 9-10 chucks. I frequently blow them out with compressed air, but if I ever think they need some lubrication I mount the chuck on the lathe. First, find a cardboard box just large enough to sit on the lathe bed and still clear the top of your chuck - then cut off the opening flaps. Place under the chuck to catch any drips. Liberally spray the scroll & each jaw slide with WD-40 and then opening and closing with the key and more spraying (the cans with the thin tube works real well). After you have it all "juiced up" with WD-40, stand the box up on the bed as close to the headstock as possible. Turn on the lathe - fast!!! The box will catch all the spray! Stop and wipe any residue (if any) on the chuck body with a paper towel.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

take jaws off, 3 in 1 oil on backside of stronghold, buyer got good deal

 

[Pat Wisniewski]

I rebuilt a very old Vicmarc 120 that came with the Stubby lathe I purchased used. It had no chrome finish on it, totally back to the dull grey base metal, as if someone had soaked it for too long in old-fashioned carburetor cleaner. The Allen key sockets on the pinion gears were so worn out they were almost round and very sloppy.

Understandable as when I tried to tighten and loosen the jaws it was like trudging through sludge!
I ordered replacement pinions and once they arrived I disassembled it and cleaned every part. Once back together you could still feel some drag due to the worn and roughened metal on metal.
It is a spare, so I don’t use it much.

I’ve never done it before but I’m thinking of using some “Blaster Garage Door Lubricant”.
It is a newer silicon-based lubricant (not the old lithium grease garage door lubes) which doesn’t attract dust, dirt, grit.

Anyone use a product like that?

 

[Ric Williams]

I’ve never done it before but I’m thinking of using some “Blaster Garage Door Lubricant”.
It is a newer silicon-based lubricant (not the old lithium grease garage door lubes) which doesn’t attract dust, dirt, grit.

Anyone use a product like that?

I would suggest avoiding using any silicone products around any woodworking spaces. Getting even traces silicone on wood can cause finishing nightmares that often can't be corrected without a lot of hassles. I learned of it from luthiers who dread having to do finish work on instruments that have had silicone polish on them even once.
Others may scoff at the idea, but they were all pretty adamant about it, and I'd rather not find find out the hard way. There are plenty of alternative dry lubes and waxes you can use on a chuck that won't contaminate the wood. Just my $0.02.

 

[Darryn Achall]

I would suggest avoiding using any silicone products around any woodworking spaces. Getting even traces silicone on wood can cause finishing nightmares that often can't be corrected without a lot of hassles. I learned of it from luthiers who dread having to do finish work on instruments that have had silicone polish on them even once.
Others may scoff at the idea, but they were all pretty adamant about it, and I'd rather not find find out the hard way. There are plenty of alternative dry lubes and waxes you can use on a chuck that won't contaminate the wood. Just my $0.02.

I have restored several wooden yachts. Any spot with silicone calk is a tear out and replace the wood. Wood with silicone on it is nearly impossible to work with.

 

[Pat Wisniewski]

Thank you both for saving me from potential disaster!!
No silicone!!

 

[Bill Giffin]

NO SILICONE !!!!!!!!

 

[Arthur McViccar]

Thank you all for your comments. I did not buy the RemOil and will continue to just use compressed air and a toothbrush, when needed.