Chasing Threads, a Second Chance.

[Emiliano Achaval]

I started chasing threads about 5 years or more ago. I have turned hundreds of boxes. I'm always looking for new to me woods that are dense enough to do it. I have a big old milk crate with what I call my box of learning mistakes. I save them so I can reuse them for reverse threaded chucks. The last few years, I noticed that some woods that were borderline are now ok for chasing, I had tossed them in the box after deeming them not worthy. Well, looks like it was me not worthy. Not enough experience. On some of the questionable woods I can now chase threads. Practice does give you perfection. Bill Jones said it takes at least 100 boxes to start to understand thread chasing and to get the hang of it. Since I do it the old traditional English bone grubber way, I do not use timber that some people would use CA. Moral of the story is, do not give up on chasing threads. it takes a bit of practice. Some people get it faster than others. In some woods is easier than in others. Working on Boxwood and Palo santo, just to name my 2 favorites, makes it easier, almost like cheating. African Blackwood makes you work for it, in part because is so dry. Compared to a big calabash, I hardly make any money on my boxes, but I love making them. To quote my hero, Bill Jones, "After 50 years, there still a sense of accomplishment whenever I end up with a nice fitting thread"

 

[RichColvin]

Emiliano,

I don’t hand chase my threads, but I think your wisdom applies to many things in life. It is like Malcolm Gladwell’s 10,000 hr rule. You just gotta put in the work to get good.

Rich

 

[john lucas]

Yes it definitely takes practice. I know my friend Mark StLeger can chase threads in hard maple. I can't. I just need a lot more practice. That being said here is a question for you. Do you think it's a timing thing. I've always wondered and I"m talking subtle here, but if you had more or less pressure going forward on the thread will it cut cleaner. The reason I ask is when cutting metal threads on a metal lathe your always cutting on the forward side of the thread. I have intended to run a test one day where I push a little to cut the threads instead of letting the thread pull me to see if I get a cleaner thread.

 

[robo hippy]

Oh, can't remember his name, but a guy from Holland. He uses that Hope threading jig. He likes to start cutting from the bottom of the cut and work his way to the top. Most of us seem to start at the lip and work our way down to the bottom.... I do need to experiment with hand chasing some time. I have a stash of boxwood that has been drying for about 4 years and it came from my property. I also still have a stash of mountain mahogany which Allen Batty said was the only north American wood that was good for hand chasing threads in. More practice is needed. The softer hardwoods, like big leaf maple, just don't like to take threads, even if I chase them with walnut oil or CA glue.

I did pick up a Baxter threading jig, but have yet to really put it to work.

robo hippy

 

[john lucas]

I use the Baxter threader all the time because most of the woids I use will not take hand chased threads. I also have one of the first prototypes of the chef warekits threader. It works well. The later model is more refined.

 

[brian horais]

I started chasing threads about 5 years or more ago. I have turned hundreds of boxes. I'm always looking for new to me woods that are dense enough to do it. I have a big old milk crate with what I call my box of learning mistakes. I save them so I can reuse them for reverse threaded chucks. The last few years, I noticed that some woods that were borderline are now ok for chasing, I had tossed them in the box after deeming them not worthy. Well, looks like it was me not worthy. Not enough experience. On some of the questionable woods I can now chase threads. Practice does give you perfection. Bill Jones said it takes at least 100 boxes to start to understand thread chasing and to get the hang of it. Since I do it the old traditional English bone grubber way, I do not use timber that some people would use CA. Moral of the story is, do not give up on chasing threads. it takes a bit of practice. Some people get it faster than others. In some woods is easier than in others. Working on Boxwood and Palo santo, just to name my 2 favorites, makes it easier, almost like cheating. African Blackwood makes you work for it, in part because is so dry. Compared to a big calabash, I hardly make any money on my boxes, but I love making them. To quote my hero, Bill Jones, "After 50 years, there still a sense of accomplishment whenever I end up with a nice fitting thread"

I really admire your persistence Emiliano and especially enjoy seeing your threaded boxes. For me, I use the Chefmate EZ Threader rig to cut threads. It is accurate but takes some skill in setting up correctly. Because I only cut threads occasionally, I find the Chefmate unit a great solution. The only problem is I have to relearn the thread dimension adjustments each time I use it. Keep those hand-threaded boxes coming!

 

[Lars Hansen]

@ Reed (#4): Maybe you are thinking of Ronald Kanne?

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Yes it definitely takes practice. I know my friend Mark StLeger can chase threads in hard maple. I can't. I just need a lot more practice. That being said here is a question for you. Do you think it's a timing thing. I've always wondered and I"m talking subtle here, but if you had more or less pressure going forward on the thread will it cut cleaner. The reason I ask is when cutting metal threads on a metal lathe your always cutting on the forward side of the thread. I have intended to run a test one day where I push a little to cut the threads instead of letting the thread pull me to see if I get a cleaner thread.

I just added it one Mark StLeger chasers. Very well made. We exchanged some emails. I chase threads with an armrest. With it, I can put just enough pressure on the female chaser. You do need a bit of pressure. Threads come out better with just the right amount of it. Timing is very important. That along with speed. Most people chase too slow and end up with drunken threads. Or I should say, start with drunken threads from the get go. I chase at 425 rpm with my 16tpi. About 380 with my 19 tpi.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I really admire your persistence Emiliano and especially enjoy seeing your threaded boxes. For me, I use the Chefmate EZ Threader rig to cut threads. It is accurate but takes some skill in setting up correctly. Because I only cut threads occasionally, I find the Chefmate unit a great solution. The only problem is I have to relearn the thread dimension adjustments each time I use it. Keep those hand-threaded boxes coming!

I notice that you do not need relief on either of the threads. I believe the female relief makes the lid sit right. There is a bit of space for the lid to finish closing. Without it, you can end up with a lopsided lid. I would like one of those jigs to make Koa threaded boxes. THank you Brian!

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Oh, can't remember his name, but a guy from Holland. He uses that Hope threading jig. He likes to start cutting from the bottom of the cut and work his way to the top. Most of us seem to start at the lip and work our way down to the bottom.... I do need to experiment with hand chasing some time. I have a stash of boxwood that has been drying for about 4 years and it came from my property. I also still have a stash of mountain mahogany which Allen Batty said was the only north American wood that was good for hand chasing threads in. More practice is needed. The softer hardwoods, like big leaf maple, just don't like to take threads, even if I chase them with walnut oil or CA glue.

I did pick up a Baxter threading jig, but have yet to really put it to work.

robo hippy

I have a to-do list. I have had "Mountain Mahogany box" on the list for years now! Should be dry by now, LOL

 

[Bill Blasic]

I admire your persistence Emiliano, I did a hands on with Mike Mahoney on threading by hand. Thank God for the Baxter Thread Master, with it I have been able to thread every wood I have tried. I know that for me "easier" is my mantra. I recently got my second Baxter (the BTM 12.5) and lo and behold it fits and works on every one of my 10" or 12 1/2" lathes, nice that the mini and midi lathe makers made the slot in the bed the same size. To be truthful the Baxter Thread Master is the only piece of equipment that if something happened to it I would instantly buy another as I have always looked at it as a work of art because it is so well made. Emiliano we can compare notes next week, see you there.

 

[hockenbery]

chase threads with an armrest. With it, I can put just enough pressure on the female chaser. You do need a bit of pressure. Threads come out better with just the right amount of it. Timing is very important. That along with speed. Most people chase too slow and end up with drunken threads. Or I should say, start with drunken threads from the get go. I chase at 425 rpm with my 16tpi. About 380 with my 19 tpi.

I’m not super good at chasing threads. I find it quite pleasurable.
I use the armrest too because Alan Batty used one.
I learned to do it by spending some time with Alan Batty at an AAW trade show. Alan was cutting threads in the Craft-supplies booth. He wasn’t getting a crowd just 2-3 people and just me who hung around for about a 1/2 hour.
Alan gave me enough instruction to use the thread cutter I got at craft supplies when I got home.
Got a decent thread on my 3rd try.

Speed - Alan said - watch the spindle threads. Turn at the highest speed you can see the threads. That is about 350 for me.

Alan’s secret was to chamfer the leading edge slightly and cut the first thread on the chamfer then gradually turn as you let that thread pull the tool into the next thread. Keep repeating until the thread is in line.

I have cut a lot of threads at 500 on the mini lathe’s lowest speed. I always feel a little rushed at that speed. 500 is just too fast for my comfort.

 

[john lucas]

Yes I learned hand chasing on my old Delta Reeves drive lathe at 500 rpm. You gotta be quick to do that. It was so much easier when I got my Nova lathe with fixed speeds. The lowest was 250. I'm still saving to buy a different thread size for my Baxter threader. I want courser than 16 for larger boxes.

 

[robo hippy]

A question for those who hand chase threads, do you make sure the recess and tenon are spot on parallel to the bed of the lathe before starting to cut?

I did look at the Chef Ware kit and the Hope threading set up, and they don't appeal to me. Main reason is that you have to spend time setting up to make sure it is square to the lathe bed. I have seen several different methods of making sure they are square, but just don't want to mess with it. With the Baxter and Klein set ups, they go in dead on square. The Hope system makes more sense to me. Some thing about pivoting the set up out of the way just appears to make things more difficult to get lined up again properly. I haven't used either one, and maybe I should. I do believe that the tenon and recess need to be spot on for parallel to the lathe bed because the thread cutter can make it close, but not spot on. Bonnie taught me to use a 6 inch steel rule applied against the recess or tenon and then eyeball it to see how close you are. I believe Ronald Kanne was the turner I saw, and he used a variation of this before he started cutting threads.

robo hippy

 

[brian horais]

Robo, I agree that setting up the Chef Ware unit takes some effort. Especially if you pivot the unit to check thread fit and then re-align it on centerline. Getting the interior walls of the jar parallel to the centerline is the first important step when turning the interior. I use the 6 inch steel rule trick as well and eyeball it against the lathe rail to make sure it is parallel to centerline. You can also use the body of the Chef Ware unit to sight against the lathe rail to make sure the unit is parallel with the centerline when you are setting up the threading unit. If I used the unit more I might come up with a better alignment process/tool. For now, it is a re-learning process each time I use it. If everything is set up well, the threads come out very nice (with the proper wood of course...)

 

[hockenbery]

do you make sure the recess and tenon are spot on parallel to the bed of the lathe before starting to cut?

Parallel by eye - except for the leading edge where I put a short chamfer.
For the male thread you need an escape gap. As soon as the chaser gets to the gap you pull back.
Without the gap the chaser hits the wood, stops, scapes off the thread leaving grooves.

This chamfer is what Alan Batty showed me.
The first thread is cut on the chamfer. each pass with the the chaser the angle is closed a bit and another thread is cut.
After 3-4-5 passes the chaser is cutting parallel to the ways and you are cleaning up the threads.

 

[john lucas]

The Chefwarekit jig works quite easily. I was concerned about aligning just like you are saying but it was a non issue. I think it's because we are only threading 3/8" long or so. If we were making threads that needed to be parallel for 3/4" that might be a different story. The advantage of the Chefware kits over the Baxter is that is will fit any lathe with a simple adjustment or an inexpensive adaptor.
The only problems I have had with threading is I got some drunken threads that looked like an S instead of an accurate thread. I was practicing for my AAW demo on threading and all of the sudden these came out every time. I was panicking and called Mark StLeger. He knew immediately. I was not keeping the chaser parallel to the bed. I paid more attention to that and the problem went away. My Demo went great.

 

[Dean Center]

I have a to-do list. I have had "Mountain Mahogany box" on the list for years now! Should be dry by now, LOL

Mountain Mahogany is dry from the get go. It only grows in places too hostile to life to support any other shrub, notably juniper. Places where it may rain once every couple of years. I would bet that upon arriving in Hawaii, the wood would not dry further, but absorb moisture until in reached equilibrium.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I admire your persistence Emiliano, I did a hands on with Mike Mahoney on threading by hand. Thank God for the Baxter Thread Master, with it I have been able to thread every wood I have tried. I know that for me "easier" is my mantra. I recently got my second Baxter (the BTM 12.5) and lo and behold it fits and works on every one of my 10" or 12 1/2" lathes, nice that the mini and midi lathe makers made the slot in the bed the same size. To be truthful the Baxter Thread Master is the only piece of equipment that if something happened to it I would instantly buy another as I have always looked at it as a work of art because it is so well made. Emiliano we can compare notes next week, see you there.

I'm always saying that I need a jig, then I could in there make Koa boxes and cut threads. I'm going to pick your brain about the Baxter. See you soon!

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Mountain Mahogany is dry from the get go. It only grows in places too hostile to life to support any other shrub, notably juniper. Places where it may rain once every couple of years. I would bet that upon arriving in Hawaii, the wood would not dry further, but absorb moisture until in reached equilibrium.

I believe @robo hippy gave it to me at the Portland Symposium. It should be super dry by now. But, you are right, where I live, super dry wood has 14.2 moisture content.

 

[robo hippy]

I got a bunch of the Mountain Mahogany some years back. It was growing at 8500 foot elevation outside of Las Vegas/lost wages..... The Forest Service was thinning for fire safety. They were going to use it for fire wood.... Went with a buddy and loaded up. He had to show them how to write a firewood permit..... Tried to get a fret board for a guitar made with it, but for some reason, it didn't seem to want to stop moving. I got it at the peak of the wet season there, and needed to wear a dust mask to turn it.

robo hippy

 

[Mike Peace]

I got a bunch of the Mountain Mahogany some years back. It was growing at 8500 foot elevation outside of Las Vegas/lost wages..... The Forest Service was thinning for fire safety. They were going to use it for fire wood.... Went with a buddy and loaded up. He had to show them how to write a firewood permit..... Tried to get a fret board for a guitar made with it, but for some reason, it didn't seem to want to stop moving. I got it at the peak of the wet season there, and needed to wear a dust mask to turn it.

robo hippy

I need to make a box with the last piece left from what you sent me years ago. Great threading wood.

 

[Mike Peace]

I started thread chasing about 10 years ago starting with 16tpi. I got some 20 tpi chasers which are easier to use as long as you are using "uranium enriched wood" as someone referred to pricey exotic woods suitable for thread chasing that fine a thread. I learned hand chasing from watching all of Sam Angelo's videos. Hand chasing is a very Zen like activity I enjoy. Much of my woodturning activity for that year was in turning threaded boxes and am usually successful in chasing Bradford Pear. I got a thread chasing jig later in the same year I started hand chasing and prefer a jig for 10tpi that I use for large acorn boxes mostly from domestic woods that are not suitable for hand chasing. I find 10tpi much more challenging to hand chase than 16 tpi. But I find it faster to hand chase 10tpi in cross grain pine to make screw chucks for reversing a box than using a jig. It is amazing how easy it is to hand chase 10 tpi in cross grain pine. The threads are not pretty and might not hold long term but do fine for a temporary screw chuck.

 

[john lucas]

I turned threaded boxes using 3 different methods today. Hand chased threads in epoxy, the Baxter threader and the Chefwarekits threader. Tomorrow I will be cutting threads using one of my older home made threading jigs and will try out a new one I just built this morning. Should be a fun and interesting day. The Baxter is still my prefered method. It's just so precise it's easy to sneak up on the perfect fit for the wood your using. I'll post photos of my new jigs after I play with them tomorrow.
The box with the finial was done using epoxy filled grooves. I addes a waste block for the male threads. The idea is to only have a really small kerf and no wood cut away so the grain aligns better. The spalted lid box had a threaded insert inlayed onto the top for the male threads so again only the smallest of kerfs was needed and this helps the grain align especially on twisted grain. The box elder box with texture was done with the Baxter threader and I cut through the bottom and added a plug to show how to repair that problem. The skinny box with holes was done with the Chefwarekits threader. It was a difficult wood to cut clean and I got the walls too then. When I textured the outside the tool tore through so I cut each hole larger with my Dremel. The texture was added to both of these because I wanted to show how you can hide the poor grain alignement.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I turned threaded boxes using 3 different methods today. Hand chased threads in epoxy, the Baxter threader and the Chefwarekits threader. Tomorrow I will be cutting threads using one of my older home made threading jigs and will try out a new one I just built this morning. Should be a fun and interesting day. The Baxter is still my prefered method. It's just so precise it's easy to sneak up on the perfect fit for the wood your using. I'll post photos of my new jigs after I play with them tomorrow.
The box with the finial was done using epoxy filled grooves. I addes a waste block for the male threads. The idea is to only have a really small kerf and no wood cut away so the grain aligns better. The spalted lid box had a threaded insert inlayed onto the top for the male threads so again only the smallest of kerfs was needed and this helps the grain align especially on twisted grain. The box elder box with texture was done with the Baxter threader and I cut through the bottom and added a plug to show how to repair that problem. The skinny box with holes was done with the Chefwarekits threader. It was a difficult wood to cut clean and I got the walls too then. When I textured the outside the tool tore through so I cut each hole larger with my Dremel. The texture was added to both of these because I wanted to show how you can hide the poor grain alignement.

I believe that you mentioned in the past that you had a metal lathe there fore you have the best most versatile machine to cut threads with. The only things necessary to add to the machine lathe is an adapter for the headstock to hold your wood turning chuck and a small router mounted to the top slide. If you or anyone else is interested I can supply photos of my setup and a quick run down of how to do it.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Not to beat a dead horse but there is only one tool in my woodturning inventory that if something happened to it that I would replace instantly without reservation are my Baxter Thread Masters. I worked turning steel for almost 38 years and I know quality when I see it. I've seen or used every threading jig commercially made (including one 3d printed). None can compare with the Baxter for ease of setup and accuracy and quality. Victor Arrighi is a Master Machinist whose work is impeccable. It is so easy to cut perfect threads with the Baxter and I can cut them with just about any wood with accuracy to .001 and with repeatability (have not tried Balsa wood but threads pine just fine). Yes the Baxter costs more than the others but you get what you pay for in spades. The only other tools I approach with such fervor are Thompson and Hunter tools.

 

[David Crane]

I believe that you mentioned in the past that you had a metal lathe there fore you have the best most versatile machine to cut threads with. The only things necessary to add to the machine lathe is an adapter for the headstock to hold your wood turning chuck and a small router mounted to the top slide. If you or anyone else is interested I can supply photos of my setup and a quick run down of how to do it.

Don, I am interested in learning how to cut threads using a metal lathe. Any guidance or photos you could post would be appreciated.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Don, I am interested in learning how to cut threads using a metal lathe. Any guidance or photos you could post would be appreciated.

The first order of business is to study thread cutting on the metal lathe (Google it). Note that the top slide is set to 29 degrees, the 60 degree tool is then set to perpendicular to the lathe axis and the tool is fed into the work piece with the dial on the top slide. The only difference for cutting threads in wood is to mount a router on the top slide with it's axis the same as the lathe axis and that is able to cut both male & female threads.
I will put together some photos of my setup at a later date.

 

[robo hippy]

I have been bowl sanding like crazy because the only show I do any more is this weekend. I just got my Baxter threading machine and it looks to be a considerable upgrade from the Klein jig I learned on. I do have a big stash of box wood that has been curing for almost 4 years now. Will get to that later this year. May even try hand chasing.... I did find the instructions that came with the Baxter jig to be insufficient for standard boxes though. Without the work shop I did with Bonnie, I would have had to done a lot of 'experimenting'. I will get a video up eventually.....

robo hippy

 

[john lucas]

I believe that you mentioned in the past that you had a metal lathe there fore you have the best most versatile machine to cut threads with. The only things necessary to add to the machine lathe is an adapter for the headstock to hold your wood turning chuck and a small router mounted to the top slide. If you or anyone else is interested I can supply photos of my setup and a quick run down of how to do it.

My metal lathe is a Smithy and requires changing all the gears manually to get the desired pitch and slow the motor down. I havent done it yet because it looks like an all day process.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

My metal lathe is a Smithy and requires changing all the gears manually to get the desired pitch and slow the motor down. I havent done it yet because it looks like an all day process.

Ya it is handy to have the quick change gears plus I added a VFD on mine so I can slow it down even more.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Don, I am interested in learning how to cut threads using a metal lathe. Any guidance or photos you could post would be appreciated.

I started a thread in the "Tips & Tutorials" section.

 

[john lucas]

I've been re doing my home built threader and experimenting with a new simplified version. The one with the vise works in the traditional way. The screw on the top pushes a half nut down on the threaded rod to reduce the slop in the threads. The other threader is my version of a jig sold by craft supplies for a very short time. To use it you create a small step in your turning that is the depth of your thread. After aligning the all thread shaft parallel to the bed and aligned with the intended thread. Then twist it slightly so the cutter pushes into the small step. Then cut your thread. Seems crude and inaccurate but I made 2 male and female tests with it and both threads worked.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I've been re doing my home built threader and experimenting with a new simplified version. The one with the vise works in the traditional way. The screw on the top pushes a half nut down on the threaded rod to reduce the slop in the threads. The other threader is my version of a jig sold by craft supplies for a very short time. To use it you create a small step in your turning that is the depth of your thread. After aligning the all thread shaft parallel to the bed and aligned with the intended thread. Then twist it slightly so the cutter pushes into the small step. Then cut your thread. Seems crude and inaccurate but I made 2 male and female tests with it and both threads worked.

Both of your jigs are just a version of the Klein style jig and like all of the jigs of that style it uses the 60 degree double angle mill so that you must either back off the work piece (Y axis ) or revers the lead screw with the mill in place. The X-Y table would allow you to use the Y axis after noting it's setting on the dial to move the work piece out of contact with the cutter then back the work piece out without any concerns for thread slop. The X axis, after noting it's setting on the dial can be used to back the entire jig away so that the fit with the mating piece can be tested.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Not to beat a dead horse but there is only one tool in my woodturning inventory that if something happened to it that I would replace instantly without reservation are my Baxter Thread Masters. I worked turning steel for almost 38 years and I know quality when I see it. I've seen or used every threading jig commercially made (including one 3d printed). None can compare with the Baxter for ease of setup and accuracy and quality. Victor Arrighi is a Master Machinist whose work is impeccable. It is so easy to cut perfect threads with the Baxter and I can cut them with just about any wood with accuracy to .001 and with repeatability (have not tried Balsa wood but threads pine just fine). Yes the Baxter costs more than the others but you get what you pay for in spades. The only other tools I approach with such fervor are Thompson and Hunter tools.

I forgot to talk about this in Chattanooga. But you have answered my question. Sadly, Mr. Baxter wasn't there. I will search for him online. I would like to use the jig to make threads on Koa and Milo boxes.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I have been bowl sanding like crazy because the only show I do any more is this weekend. I just got my Baxter threading machine and it looks to be a considerable upgrade from the Klein jig I learned on. I do have a big stash of box wood that has been curing for almost 4 years now. Will get to that later this year. May even try hand chasing.... I did find the instructions that came with the Baxter jig to be insufficient for standard boxes though. Without the work shop I did with Bonnie, I would have had to done a lot of 'experimenting'. I will get a video up eventually.....

robo hippy

I think that it is against the law to use Boxwood with a threading jig. I'm thinking of getting myself a Baxter jig to be able to cut threads on Koa boxes.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Not to beat a dead horse but there is only one tool in my woodturning inventory that if something happened to it that I would replace instantly without reservation are my Baxter Thread Masters. I worked turning steel for almost 38 years and I know quality when I see it. I've seen or used every threading jig commercially made (including one 3d printed). None can compare with the Baxter for ease of setup and accuracy and quality. Victor Arrighi is a Master Machinist whose work is impeccable. It is so easy to cut perfect threads with the Baxter and I can cut them with just about any wood with accuracy to .001 and with repeatability (have not tried Balsa wood but threads pine just fine). Yes the Baxter costs more than the others but you get what you pay for in spades. The only other tools I approach with such fervor are Thompson and Hunter tools.

Have you tried the Hope jig? Recently some one posted a link to his video and it showed a swing away feature that none of the other Klein style jigs have. The hinged feature allows you to move the the work piece away from the cutter without affecting the settings.

 

[john lucas]

the Chefwarekits threader has a swing away feature that allows you to check the fit of the threads. The Baxter jig has a set able stop to let you slide the jig back to check for fit.

 

[GRJensen]

I have an early version of the Chefware Kits jig ... there is a Youtube video by Paul Judkins that I found very helpful. I have thought about upgrading the jig, but with some help from Sam Angelo I have become fairly adept at hand-chasing threads.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Since the Baxter is built for your lathe there is little to no slop with the Baxter and the ways of your lathe ( from all my machining experience I always pull anything sliding in the ways towards myself) so positioning is basically absolute. It comes with a stop to set it against and Like John says you can move the Baxter back for checking. When moved back it is 100% in the same place it was and a .001 adjustment if needed will give you a .001 adjustment. One of the most important feature of the Baxter is that when you put it on your lathe it is in perfect parallel alignment with your target, absolutely no fussing to get into alignment it is there. And yes this piece of equipment moves in and out in thousands of an inch. With the 16 TPI installed I always take 2 cuts. First cut is .020 and second is .015 that gives me the .070 difference needed for thread match between male and female threads. I have no problem threading pine without CA glue with that method. And yes I tried the Hope (before the take away) and I found it somewhat difficult to get it set up properly for parallel cutting of the threads. I have just sent my BTM-12.5 back to Victor at Best Wood Tools so he could turn it into the BTM-12.5X which will give me the 5" threading capability and in and out fast auxiliary slide like I have on the other. Hey as long as you're happy with your choice of equipment that's all that matters.