What type of chain do you use? I will stick with reduced kickback, but for halving rounds, I've wondered if a ripping chain would be advantageous. I hear chainsaw log milling units use a different chain.
Thanks for the quick replies. We don't do a lot of logging in central Iowa. I think I'll try the skip tooth. I will rely on the dealer that my tree guy recommended(Sthil dealer). It sounds like a ripping chain is not worth having.
While the ripping chain will cut into endgrain I rarely cut into the endgrain with it.Why would anybody cut straight into the grain, like Al did cut some platters?
We have a few commercial Koa operations on our family ranch. I have yet to see any loggers carrying a chainsaw with a ripping chain unless they are slabbing with an Alaska mill. Any logger or I can tell you that to get the full benefit of a ripping chain you need a minimum of 90cc and up. I do not see the benefit of ripping chains in electric chainsaws or the benefit of owning several electric chainsaws with ripping chains as you told us you do. Maybe you can tell us more about your electric chainsaws production work, this is the very first one for me and I'm very puzzled by it.Most sawyers have several chainsaws that they use for various tasks in processing trees, most of them will have at least one chainsaw set up with a ripping chain.
I have several electric chainsaws that I use when processing logs into bowl, spindle and flat slab blanks, I have several ripping chains for one of them that I use when I cutting flat slabs.
My chainsaw shop, not the big box store, asked me what I was cutting. I told them about my bowl making and that I cross cut and ripped log sections. They said a skip tooth design would be best for what I do. No complaints. I did learn how to hand sharpen my chains to the point to where those who REALLY know how to sharpen them don't laugh at me any more.... I do need to get a mechanical chain sharpener. By the time the teeth get worn down maybe half way, they are starting to drift as I cut because of uneven sharpening...
robo hippy
I have the same saw with a 20 inch bar. It's all I've needed so far. Fyi be careful opening the fuel cap, the tank becomes pressurized and if it's not close you empty you can get a little fuel spraying out.Thanks all for the great info. Since my tree guy recommended Sthil and they are my closest dealer, l bought a MS271. Since my experience is low, l went with Sthil's standard low kickback chain. I trimmed up a walnut crotch today, and l was pleased with this unit. After l wear out a couple chains, l will probably try a full chisel skip tooth chain. I do anticipate the vast majority of my cuts will be cross grain and "side" grain, but l do think l will make some end grain cuts. One additional note: I found the discussion a while back on holding your log for chain sawing very helpful. I'm using that cherry log that l allowed to check way too much for my support. You guys are a great help.
I've tried a variety of methods to 'sharpen' chains, with marginal success in my hands. Last fall, I bought the Stihl 2 in 1 chainsaw file. It's kinda funny looking and rather pricey, but works very well. It's easier to get a consistent angle than with other handheld guides, and apparently filing the tops of the chain guides each time helps more than I would have guessed.