Chainsaw Choices

[cypher]

For those of you that harvest your our wood blanks using a chainsaw, what brand and size do you use? I am looking to buy a new one and don't really know much about them. What is a good chain lenght? gas or electric? good price range. I would not imagine i would be harvesting stuff that is too large but i woudl think the bigger the better.

 

[Charlie Harley]

Bigger the better is good advice up to a point. Too big and it's unwieldy for what we do.

Think about the biggest log that you'll cut and add about 2-3". That's your bar length. Chain saws are rated by the length of the bar and not the chain.

Cost? You'll get what you pay for. Home Depot sells big-box brands for big box prices. The small chainsaws are low cost and are okay for small work, but once they break or wear you might as well buy a new one. They're very hard to get parts and usually not cost effective to repair.

I prefer a quality chain saw bought from a dealer who also services his equipment.

As to manufacturer, look at who has service facilities in your area. Stihl is very popular in Cincinnati and used by all the rescue crews. My dad uses all Stihl equipment on the farm so I admit my bias towards that brand.

Husquevarna (sp?) is another quality brand that dominates in some areas, again because of the availability of service.

I haven't found an electric chainsaw that is good for much more than pruning limbs. I wouldn't even think about one.

And now time for my safety lecture... Please always wear safety glasses when working with chainsaws. You can't squint or blink fast enough to prevent an eye injury. Also, get good instruction about how to use a chainsaw. They're wonderful tools, but one ruh-roh and they can be deadly.

 

[Jim Stoppleworth]

I'm quite happy with my 20" Husqvarna 455. It's gas, I got it on sale and I'm pretty sure it was $289. Stihl is another good brand.

Jim

 

[dkulze]

Welcome to the bottomless pit (or should I say topless pile) of milling your own wood.

Most folks end up with a name brand chainsaw with a 16" bar. 14" is too short, 20 is a bit more than needed. Also, folks usually end up with a Stihl or Husquevarna (or equivalent), as they last forever, work extremely well, and are easy to find parts for. Husque fan here.

I'd also recommend a 14 or 16" electric. These come in awfully handy when you need to mill logs at home and it's raining out. You can fire it up right in your shop and even use it to balance pieces on the lathe before you start turning (if you have a locking spindle, chainsaw and unlocked spindle is a no-no).

Dietrich

 

[flyrod444]

The size of chainsaw depends on the size of you lathe in a way. I have 24" swing lathe so I tend to make large bowls at times. I have a Stihl 026 that I use if walking a ways to cut a small burl of a tree, but I like the 20" bar on my old Husquevarna 61 for cutting wood into workable size. I just got through sizing a big piece of apple that I had to cut from both sides with a 20" bar. When slabbing out blanks, lay your wood on its side and it cuts much better than trying to cut down through the end grain. Word of warning, if you have little time on a chain saw, BE CAREFUL!!!! They can be very dangerous if not used with a lot of care. One of my friends has a stihl with a 36" bar if something big comes up. It is extremely dangerous and he only uses it when someone is with him.
Jack

 

[Rob Wallace]

Stihl is still the name for best quality....

For those of you that harvest your our wood blanks using a chainsaw, what brand and size do you use? I am looking to buy a new one and don't really know much about them. What is a good chain length? gas or electric? good price range. I would not imagine i would be harvesting stuff that is too large but i woudl think the bigger the better.

I took Bill Grumbine's advice from last summer (....received in Louisville at the AAW Symposium, over a beer!) and recently bought a Stihl MS 260 Pro when my old McCulloch died this past March. The MS 260 Pro is an EXCELLENT saw overall (18 inch bar) and lots of power. I am sure it will handle pretty much anything I will need it to do, as far as cutting turning stock. Yes, the bigger the better to a limit. You will want to have bar capacity to handle cuts bigger than you think at first; I suggest an 18 inch bar as a minimum.

I also own a Bosch electric chain saw for when I am trimming blanks, making sections through log pieces, etc. It's a lot quieter around the neighbors here at home than firing up the gas saw (I can even use it at 10 or 11 pm at night in the driveway under lights, or in the garage, without disturbing any people). Little noise, if any, and no exhaust fumes. I got it on sale at Home Depot for around $ 90. It's really convenient to have available.

Having one of each (gas and electric) is a good idea if you're a "suburban" turner like me. If you're out in the country and noise isn't an issue, one quality gas saw will work fine. I have been told by many professional arborists and foresters that Stihl is still the name on top of the brand list of quality chain saws. I considered the ca. $ 525 investment to be amortized over the 15-20+ years this saw will be alive and working for me. I didn't even consider other brands.

Good luck with your "saw search"...

Rob Wallace

 

[George Guadiane]

How Big Is Your Lathe Swing?

One consideration might be the swing on your lathe: If your bar is at least a little longer than the swing on your lathe, you can know how big a chunk to cut out of a log for your lathe (if you are doing it that way) and you can do it in one cut which usually gives you clean edges for handling. It might also make it easier for sawing round on the bandsaw (if you are doing it that way).
Safety Safety SAFETY!

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

MS 310 Stihl does a fine job of cutting with a 18" blade.

 

[jcollazo]

I have the Husqvarna 350 with 16" bar. Lightweight and plenty powerful.

Joe

 

[Aaron G+11]

Like most things, your needs should dictate your choice. I cringed at the $550 cost of my husky 575, until it quickly and gracefully went through a four foot diameter log. I haven't taken the 20" pouland out since. Having a lathe with a 24" swing, a bar length of 28" makes ripping bowl blanks a one pass manuver. Less time sawing, more time for turning.

Brands: Stihl or Husky. Husky are less costly
Size: It is a balance between capacity and wieght. Get one in the mid range of the bar you plan to use.
Saftey: At the least, read the owners manual. Sound obvious, but. An "all in one helmet" (face shield, hearing protectors and hard hat) are a great value.
Where to get: Bailey's (www.baileys-online.com) or a local supplier

 

[dkulze]

Chainsaw safety 101:

-Your chainsaw loves you. It wants to kiss you and be your friend. This is not a good idea. Remember the direction the chain is going and that it's basically a misshapen wheel and will try to make the saw roll up, down, toward you, away from you, or sideways, depending on how your holding it. This becomes dangerous when you stop paying attention or are not prepared for the motion/pressure. Care and a light touch will prevent most injuries.

-If you wear glasses or sunglasses, you WILL be picking chips out of your mouth, nose, and eyes. Face shield is the way to go. At the very least, safety goggles. Gloves too. The blade is sharper than you think and you'll bump up against it and take a chunk out.

-Don't relax until the chain stops. Some of the worst injuries I've heard of happen when you finish a cut and lift, withdraw, lower the saw before the blade has stopped. It's still moving and it will still kick, or kiss your leg nicely when you lower it.

-Give your full attention to the saw and the saw alone, resulting in a branch on the head, half a log crushing your foot, springback from a tree sending you flying, or a crushed pickup truck/roof/sunroom. Don't forget that the saw isn't the only thing there that might kiss you. Plan things out ahead of time.

-Don't forget that what you're standing on moves too. Shavings, logs, scrap, ice, mud, wet grass, etc.

-And, finally, my favorite. That little metal cover on the carborator? It gets hot. Trust me.

Have fun and cut safe,
Dietrich

 

[David Somers]

Cypher,

So far folks have been focusing on face and ear protection, and gloves. All very needed.

Please don't forget Chaps and protective footwear (steel toed boots). Kickback from the saw is more likely to catch you on the leg or foot depending on what you are doing. They cost, but are worth it.

And I think this was said before....but find a class on chainsaw use. See if the US or state Forest Service has offices near you and might do a class, or can suggest someone who can teach one. They are very worth while. Some things with a chainsaw are NOT common sense or intuitive. Take a class and avoid developing bad habits that could truly hurt you someday.

Dave

 

[GeorgeH]

Point of view:
You can cut thirty inch material with a 16" bar; you've just gotta make two passes. I don't see any reason to buy a chain saw with a bar longer than sixteen inches for slicing up logs of the size we typically use (except you guys who make dining room tables on your lathes) for wood turning.
My wife bought me a 16" Homelite XL-12 chain saw twenty five years ago. I've cut hundreds of cord of oak, pine, cedar and madrone (about sixteen cord per year over twenty years) using that saw and it's never let me down. My Homelite was still cutting when the Jonsered, Husqvarna, Stihl and other saws were being worked on by the folks in the forest cutting near me and I still use it today. Keep it sharp, keep it clean and use top quality fuel and oil.
I like the idea of having a small electric chain saw for trimming up blanks when preparing them for the lathe. Rigging up a suitable cradle to rest atop a pair of saw horses where you can clamp the blank down solidly while trimming is all you need to make short work of the task. Pushing rough-hewn logs through the band saw can be dangerous.
One final point - dkulze "Chainsaw Safety 101"
Some good tips there. I have an air conditioned boot that stands as an endorsement for his comments. I'm grateful that it didn't get any deeper than my socks. :cool2:

 

[Jake Debski]

Many county extension services offer chainsaw safety courses. These should be a must for saw users.

 

[Brian Hahn]

I have a couple of gas chain saws and the Stihl is my favorite.

I typically use an electric chain saw for blank preparation. I burned out a $90 home center model and replaced it with a Makita. The difference was night and day. Stihl and Husky also have good electric chain saws if you are willing to invest in a tool that will last.

 

[waltben]

Best cut for the buck . . .

Although you'll pay a bit more for one, a Stihl will last longer and cut better than anything from a big-box store. I've three: a 250/18" for trimming branches and general stuff, a 260 Pro/20" for felling and sectioning, and a used 360/25" that I only use for halving larger logs. The Stihl chain size and pitch for both the 250 and 260 outcut about anything I've ever had in the past. You can do a lot more cutting in the same time, as well as the saw outlasting any other brand.

 

[Stuart Ablett]

I was lucky, I grew up around chainsaws, the the family members who taught us how to use them, knew what they were doing :cool2:

You have gotten some great advice, my best advice to you is to find a chainsaw dealer, not just a storefront that sells saws, but one that has a workshop fixes saws too.

Often, you can get a good deal on a slightly used saw, a lot of "Pros" who make their living with a chainsaw, will trade it in after a certain amount of time, depends on the guy.

If you can find a deal on a traded in, refurbished saw like that, you could be a lot of dollars ahead, and, if you buy it from a shop like that, you have somewhere to take it, to servicing.

Don't discount electric saws, I have two, a 12" Makita, that is fairly light weight, but with a sharp chain, it will cut big stuff...............

Little Makita

I also have an older Shindaiwa, that has a 20" or so long bar on it......

Shindaiwa Workhorse
..... it has amazing torque, and cuts well.

The electrics have the advantage of being quiet, and while they cut well, they do NOT cut like a good gas saw, you also have to drag the cord around, which can be a real pain if you are doing some limbing, it gets tangled up.

Chaps, mitts, steel toed boots, full face shield (I like the mesh ones, they don't fog up) and hearing protection, if you are running the gas saw.

Learn to sharpen your chain, do it often, you will save time.

Good luck, stay safe.

Cheers!

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Here's a different perspective.

When I first started woodturning, I was convinced I needed to replace my cheapo Poulan Pro with a Stihl. Years later I'm still waiting for my cheapo to die and I'm no longer convinced Stihl is the best answer for me.

In my area you can buy two Poulan Pro chainsaws at the big box for the price of one similar sized (bar length) Stihl at a speciatly dealer.

My Poulan starts on the second or third pull every time. I would say that a third of the Stihl owners I know never manage to get their saws started when we get together for group cuts.

If and when my Poulan stops working, I can buy a new one within 30 minutes. Sthil's last forever, so you have it repaired (takes days or weeks) rather than buy a new one. Most Stihl owners I know try and repair their chainsaws themselves. It's a long trip to a service center and repairs aren't cheap. I know a couple Stihls that have been sitting on the workbench for months and they probably aren't going to be cutting wood again any time soon.

My Poulan chainsaw cuts wood. Stihls have bigger engines for the same bar length (which is one of the reasons they cost a lot more). If I was making a living cutting wood, I would definitely pay more to have a bigger engine, but I don't make my living cutting wood and If it takes me 30 seconds longer to cut through a 24" log with my 16" chainsaw, it doesn't really matter. In most cases, the condition of the chain has a larger impact on the speed and quality of cut anyway.

I'm not saying that a Stihl insn't a good choice, I'm just saying that a cheap Poulan Pro from the big box may be a better overall value for the average woodturner that doesn't cut wood for a living or have acreage to clear.

Ed

 

[hockenbery]

It really comes down to what size trees you will cut and to some extent the size blanks.

An electric saw can be real useful around the house and even indoors on occasion (they do throw some oil so keep this in mind). I have 16" poulin.

I started out with a 16" homelite then a 20" poulin and now a 24" Stihl 440.

Having the 24" saw gets me invited to lots of big wood. Bigger saws cut faster, are heavier, and don't run out of gas very often because they hold more.

I recommend getting a saw from a dealer who will service it.
Stihls and huskys are real good saws.
there are many others that are ok.

I see two philosophy's among commercial tree folks. most use good saws and keep them running for ever but quite a few use cheap saws and buy new ones every year.

happy turning

 

[Jake Debski]

In my mind the Dealer and his proximity to my location is of prime importance. The dealer must be a full service pro. Even if you do your own repairs he will have the parts you need when you need them. The Brand Name is of secondary importance. Most Brand Names will serve you very well if taken care of properly. Sharp chains, fresh fuel, and a new spark plug from time to time go a long way toward keeping you in the "free wood" business.

 

[Gretch Flo]

fla chain saws

When visiting Fla I had used my brother-in-law's Poulan. He never used it I used it once per year for 4-5 years. Last year, I couldn't get the thing to work, and when investigating the plastic tubes were rotting-tried to replace them, but unsuccessfully (I had run the gas out each time). Raced to Sears, as I was leaving the next day (I hate sears). The Sears saleman, who did chain sawing himself said in Fla, that with the heat, humidity, "they all" rot, unless kept in air conditioned comfort. This one was kept in the garage. Was he blowing fog???? Ps I bought an 18" craftman (I believe he said Poulan makes them) floor model and got the saw for 50% off. Worked fine this year. At home I have a 280, and a 290 Stihl. The newer one had to have $100+ (? forgot the exact cost) repairs 3 months after the warentee ran out. :mad: Other than that they work fine. I cut alot of firewood(about 30 facecords per year), and of course my woodworking wood. Gretch

 

[Hugh]

I own three different chainsaws - 16", 20" & 42" - either Sthil or Husq. I never seem to use the little one. The saw that I go for most of the time is the 20".

The reason most people have trouble with starting chain saws is that they never do any maintenance on them. You have to clean the air filter often - no matter which saw you have (other than electric). Sometimes you have to change the spark plug.

Also another safety thing I think is to have the chain sharp. The saw cuts easier and you are not so apt to use too much pressure to cut - because if you slip...things can happen. Learn how to sharpen your saw chain. Takes a bit of practice, but once you learn it only takes 10 minutes to sharpen a chain.

Be safe with the saw. Don't cut wood when you are tired, etc. A great tool but if you drop your guard for a second - it will come and get you.

Don't forget hearing protection also.
Hugh

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Gretch - It's a safe bet that the Sears sales droid that told you plastic rots faster in Florida because of heat and humidity didn't know what he was talking about.

Ed

 

[dkulze]

A quick note on sharpening: I have a Dremel with the rechargable lithium battery. Greatest little gadget I've ever owned. Extremely light and very portable. Holds a charge forever.

With this, takes about 2-3 minutes to do a quick field sharpen on my saw. This matters because I end up hitting sand, dirt, metal, rock, etc imbedded in the wood pretty regularly when milling (urban/rural mix so everything from staples to fencing to barbed wire). Admittedly, sharpening without a guide doesn't make for the smoothest cuts but it's fast, dirty, and works fine. I end up going through chains a bit faster due to removing more material but, by the time it's ground down good, it's missing teeth anyway.

Oh, and if you take up sharpening, don't forget to take a little off of the depth guides every few sharpenings. A sharp blade doesn't do much good if the teeth aren't actually hitting the wood.

Dietrich

 

[cypher]

WOW!!! this is a lot of great advice. Thank you everyone for your input. After looking through all the suggestions I think i may go with the Poulan Pro 18" or maybe even the 20" for the extra $30. I have a Poulan service center close to my home and I have used a Poulan 14" before with good success. I really like the Husky and Sthil modles but the price is a little high for as much as i think i would use it. I am going to my local service center to see if maybe i can find a used of refurbed one for a better price. I have used chainsaws many times, but I do not have a lot time on a chainsaw so i will definetly look into a safety class in my area.

The advice on sharpening is good to know. I was under the impression that it was better to just replace it instead of sharpening it. but i guess that could get pretty costly.

Speaking of replacement . . . i have to say i know even less about chain types. I understand they come in diffrent pitches and i think teeth count?

What is a good chain type to use for harvesting blanks? does it depend on the type of wood?

 

[David Somers]

Cutrtng a large log with a small saw

Earlier in the post someone mentioned using a smaller (16") saw to cut larger logs by simply making two passes. That is doable, but keep in mind one of the greatest risks of kickback is when the tip of the blade is in the wood. You need to be extremely careful when doing that. If you regularly do this kind of cutting you should really look at a larger saw.

Dave

 

[Jake Debski]

Gretch - It's a safe bet that the Sears sales droid that told you plastic rots faster in Florida because of heat and humidity didn't know what he was talking about.

Ed

Ed, can't say for sure but I think the salesman was partially correct. I have 2 old saws, one Pioneer and one Poulon + an Echo trimmer. They were fine until I got newer equip. and rarely used them any longer. I think the lack of use and the high summer heat inside my storage shed caused all three to experience the same fate. I'm in the Northeast so it took considerably longer to happen but the fuel lines in them disintegrated. I'll wager it happens to all 2-cycle equipment eventually. I've had this stuff a long time. The Pioneer 30+ years, Poulon 18 give or take and the Echo was used when I got it 11 yrs ago.

BTW, the first symptom of this is hard starting and difficulty keeping it running.

 

[dkulze]

Cypher, if you get a new chain each time it needs sharpening, you'll be replacing your chain about once a week. Depending on the wood, I usually sharpen my chain about every 2 hours of cutting time. If there's no damage, it's just a quick touch up. If the wood was hard or has a high silicates content (birch, aspen) it will be a more thorough sharpen. Just think of it as a big, loud chef's knife for wood.

Don't worry about pitch at this point. Your standard chain will do just fine. The pitch and chain type comes in more if you're focused on specialty work, such as milling beams with a chainsaw mill, or doing extensive ripping. For your everyday milling work, keeping that bugger sharp and tuned is all you need to worry about.

Oh, and Poulon is a quite serviceable chainsaw.

And another Oh, Dave's right that having the tip in the wood is more dangerous. That's where the light touch and the awareness of where the saw will want to go comes in. I end up with my tip deeply imbedded and cutting on a regular basis and have had minimal trouble with kickback, primarilly because I don't force the cut and I'm prepared for it to move. I also avoid cutting with the tip moving across the surface. I want it either deep in the log, where it's well contained, or not engaged at all. Those folks who do chainsaw carving with the tip are nuts.

Where I've been almost zapped has usually been when cutting brush or limbs and the saw touches something other than what I was intending to cut. It jumps, engages something else I wasn't intending to cut, and starts running all over the place. That's a scary place to be and I try to avoid it.

Dietrich (A.K.A. Stubby)

 

[David Somers]

Another thought on the decay of the material. Ozone. If your garden shed has a running motor (like a well pump or some other wound motor in it) that can produce ozone and that will decay rubber and plastic. Or if you are within the smog zone of a city the ambient air pollution will contain a fair amount of ozone. Or...if you live on top of an active volcano and regularly have sulphuric acid in the air that can do it too. Though maybee that is not as common in your neck of the woods as it is in mine? <grin>

Dave

Ed, can't say for sure but I think the salesman was partially correct. I have 2 old saws, one Pioneer and one Poulon + an Echo trimmer. They were fine until I got newer equip. and rarely used them any longer. I think the lack of use and the high summer heat inside my storage shed caused all three to experience the same fate. I'm in the Northeast so it took considerably longer to happen but the fuel lines in them disintegrated. I'll wager it happens to all 2-cycle equipment eventually. I've had this stuff a long time. The Pioneer 30+ years, Poulon 18 give or take and the Echo was used when I got it 11 yrs ago.

BTW, the first symptom of this is hard starting and difficulty keeping it running.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Jake - I could see storage in a very hot environment contributing to deterioration of plastic, but the Sears Guy assertion that saws need storage in "air conditioned comfort" to prevent plastic rot is baloney. Garages here in South Florida certainly don't get all that hot.


Jake and Dave - In addtion to high heat in a closed shed and the effects of ozone and other airborne pollutants, I wonder if reformulation of gasoline in recent years might be contributing to deterioration of parts. Specifically the addition of alcohol. Although, I never drain the gas out of my chainsaw and I don't run it dry after each use and I haven't noticed any problems yet. Better find some wood to knock.

Dave - We don't have much of a problem with sulphuric acid fumes here in South Florida, but some areas might have difficulty with meth lab fumes. I bet they would do a job on a chainsaw. Nothing worse than getting ready to carve up a competing dealer and the chainsaw won't start.

Ed

 

[David Somers]

Ed,

The gasoline theory is interesting, but I am not sure if it affects the plastic or the engine itself. Here in Hawaii the State has backed off the requirement that boats use gasahol after a whole series of complaints came in claiming that the fuel change had damaged boat engines. I have not seen any type of confirmation of the cause of damage though from a reputable source. The whole fuss has been based on claims by boat owners and mechanics, and not confirmed through tests. In other words, it is all anecdotal. I haven't been reading about complaints from Auto owners and mechanics about similar problem in auto engines which I find interesting.

Regarding the Meth lab fumes.....might be a great way to supercharge the chain saw, kind of like modifying the engine to run on nitro. Plus you can supercharge the owner as well!! Whooohooooo! Think I will stay away from the sound of running chain saws from now on!

Dave

Jake - I could see storage in a very hot environment contributing to deterioration of plastic, but the Sears Guy assertion that saws need storage in "air conditioned comfort" to prevent plastic rot is baloney. Garages here in South Florida certainly don't get all that hot.


Jake and Dave - In addtion to high heat in a closed shed and the effects of ozone and other airborne pollutants, I wonder if reformulation of gasoline in recent years might be contributing to deterioration of parts. Specifically the addition of alcohol. Although, I never drain the gas out of my chainsaw and I don't run it dry after each use and I haven't noticed any problems yet. Better find some wood to knock.

Dave - We don't have much of a problem with sulphuric acid fumes here in South Florida, but some areas might have difficulty with meth lab fumes. I bet they would do a job on a chainsaw. Nothing worse than getting ready to carve up a competing dealer and the chainsaw won't start.

Ed

 

[Jake Debski]

....................................................................
Although, I never drain the gas out of my chainsaw and I don't run it dry after each use and I haven't noticed any problems yet. Better find some wood to knock.........................

Ed

Ed, I don't drain my gas either, but I do add gas stabilizer in late fall. Our local dealer suggests putting stabilizer in every fresh mix, but I don't. It is good to have the saw ready just in case the weather contributes a new batch of blanks.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Rotten Gas Lines

Gents,

Regardless of where you live or store your saw, none of it has anything to do with the gas lines falling apart. That issue is governed by two factors. 1. The quality of the tubing used and its chemical resistence to gas, and 2. whether gas is stored in your saw. Yes, yes, I use Stabil, etc. too, but I do so to preserve the gas in the gas can. If you want to prevent your gas lines from rotting and bypass the No. 1 issue, it's quite simple to do.

DRAIN THE SAW'S GAS TANK BACK INTO THE CAN WHEN YOU'RE DONE FOR THE DAY.

Then fire it up and let it idle to pull all the gas out of the lines. Lastly leave the gas cap loose to allow the tank to vent. I've had my small Stihl for 17 years. The second year I had to have the saw basically rebuilt because all of the lines had pinholed and cracked, even with Stabil in the saw. The lines rotted out in only 4 months over the Winter in my unheated garage. Complained to an arborist friend about the cheapo gas lines in my saw, and he just shook his head and explained the real cause. I learned my lesson and I'm still running with the same set of gas lines for 15 years in that Stihl. I do, however, change fuel filters each year.

If you store gas in your saw's gas lines, they will rot; some faster than others, but rot they will.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Mark - I would expect the fuel lines to be resistant to whatever fuel was in use at the time the saw was manufactured. Sadly, I've learned that my expectations aren't always consistent with the profit objectives of today's manufacturing companies. I really should follow your suggestion and drain the gas from the saw and run it dry after each use. It would only take a minute while I'm cleaing up the saw............... Alright, you convinced me. I'll start doing it.

Ed

 

[Stuart Ablett]

I agree with Mark, I always empty my tank when I'm done, and then run the saw a minute to use any gas in the carb. I have my hand on the kill switch, so when you hear the saw start to rev up, you hit the kill switch. The saw will run faster, rev up, when the gas is running out, as it is running lean. Letting it completely run out, and die is NOT a good idea, IMHO.

This way of doing it was shown to me by a pro logger in BC Canada, who had was retired at the time but still cut firewood with us, his old Stihl saw was a LOT older than I was, and would start on the first pull every time.

Cheers!

 

[waltben]

To empty or not to empty

I've never emptied saws, mowers, trimmers, generator, washer or any of the other gasoline thingies I've got sitting around, and have never had any line 'rot'. Only gas powered issue I've had in twenty years was a B&S plastic tank developing some stress cracks from poor engineering. One thing I've done for the past two years that's different is to use only premium for two stroke fuel. Haven't had to use Stabil, and they all start a whole bunch easier.

 

[Jake Debski]

Gents,

Regardless of where you live or store your saw, none of it has anything to do with the gas lines falling apart. That issue is governed by two factors. 1. The quality of the tubing used and its chemical resistence to gas, and 2. whether gas is stored in your saw. Yes, yes, I use Stabil, etc. too, but I do so to preserve the gas in the gas can. If you want to prevent your gas lines from rotting and bypass the No. 1 issue, it's quite simple to do.

DRAIN THE SAW'S GAS BACK INTO THE CAN WHEN YOU'RE DONE FOR THE DAY.

Mark, I never gave any thought to emptying the tank after each use. It makes sense and is quite easy to do. I guess I can now turn off the air conditioning in my garden shed!

 

[Gretch Flo]

Stabil

Gents,

Regardless of where you live or store your saw, none of it has anything to do with the gas lines falling apart. That issue is governed by two factors. 1. The quality of the tubing used and its chemical resistence to gas, and 2. whether gas is stored in your saw. Yes, yes, I use Stabil, etc. too, but I do so to preserve the gas in the gas can.

Ok Guys-I am still confused. We had this thread about a year ago. My log splitter had green junk all in the fuel lines. Then I had problems with my minitiller. and my chain saw. (at different points.) One place in Mich told me NOT to use stabil in the fuel for the chain saw, and another Stihl dealer in Mass told me NOT to put Stabil in the gas for the chainsaw. His explanation was a dilution factor and was hesitating trying to come up with an explanation.(He was German). Both places stressed getting good gas. So I use mid to premium gas, making sure not to get too much on hand for the ridamower, rototiller, minitiller, and log splitter.
I will just put the older gas in the car which uses it right up. I am not a mechanical wizard as are you guys, and just need to be told what to do without a confusing MM science!!!! Gretch

 

[Mark Mandell]

Stabil

Ok Guys-I am still confused. We had this thread about a year ago. My log splitter had green junk all in the fuel lines. Then I had problems with my minitiller. and my chain saw. (at different points.) One place in Mich told me NOT to use stabil in the fuel for the chain saw, and another Stihl dealer in Mass told me NOT to put Stabil in the gas for the chainsaw. His explanation was a dilution factor and was hesitating trying to come up with an explanation.(He was German). Both places stressed getting good gas. So I use mid to premium gas, making sure not to get too much on hand for the ridamower, rototiller, minitiller, and log splitter.
I will just put the older gas in the car which uses it right up. I am not a mechanical wizard as are you guys, and just need to be told what to do without a confusing MM science!!!! Gretch

Gretch,

The only reason to use Stabil is if you're going to be storing the gas for some time. The new fuels tend to degrade just sitting in the can for as little as month, and their ethanol content actually attacts water vapor. From what I've been told, stabilizer will extend a good fuel's shelf life for up to 6 months. The issue with 2-cycle mixed gas is that hobbyists and homeowners are usually in the position of having to hold some in the can for more than a month between saw sessions. You can't put the leftover mix in your car or truck, and, unless your town has a drop-off for oil and gas/oil mix, your only other alternative is to either let it evaporate or burn it in a controlled fashion; neither is a good choice for our climate, and both are often illegal. Stabilizer in the stored fuel is then a good option.

I buy gas, and then mix in the oil as I need it at no more than a half-gallon at a time. That way I never have much of a "mixed" leftover problem. I don't put the stabilizer in until I know that I'm storing those leftovers.

My other small engine units (generator, log splitter, snow blower) use different fuel line material than those small tubes in my saws. I do store gas in those machines, with stabilizer, for no more than 3 months during their use seasons, but I turn off their tanks and run the lines and carbs dry just as I do with the saws. Since these are 4-cycle engines, I can drain their tanks and put the gas in my truck at the 3-month point. All these engines start right up on regular gas. I tried higher grades, but saw no difference in performace, so I save the extra money for a better grade of beer

Simple way to approach this is to not store gas in your chainsaw, and try to mix only what you'll use.

Hope this helps.

mm

 

[Jake Debski]

Mark,

Virtually all the Power Equipment Dealers I've talked to in our area recommend using premium gas. Until recently I never got a convincing answer to, why? Talking to the local dealer for Sthil about this, his answer was, " in small engines regular gas detonates leaving unburned residue. Premium on the other hand burns a touch slower and more completely. The advantage is, longer engine life and easier starting. I switched to premium and the only place I noticed any obvious advantage is in my garden tractor. When I shut it off I no longer get that far to frequent, BANG, backfire. I'm sure the neighbors horses, my wife, and our 2 dogs are greatfull. I wonder if she minds being put in that company??