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Chain Sharpening

Dean Center said:
John L. Do you think the teeth get shorter faster using a grinder?
Click to expand...

I'd like to know what John L. thinks about this too!

From my experience they don't get shorter faster if sharpened the way I do it - adjust the amount position of the tooth on the grinder to take of just enough as needed to sharpen (or repair) that tooth. This can make some teeth a little shorter and some teeth longer but that doesn't affect the cut. I think it's a myth that the teeth need to be the same length - the chain will even cut fine some ground down to a nub and even with a few missing teeth!

They don't do this at the shops I know - they seem to set the machine to the shortest tooth on the chain and automatically grind all to match - it's quick and easy for them but it does reduce the overall chain life. Seeing how the local shop sharpened was one reason I bought a grinder.

That, and that some who sharpen don't know enough to check and shorten the depth gauges as needed. I have one friend who always got his chains sharpened at the local shop and after several sharpenings the saw wouldn't cut as well and they told him the chain was worn out and sold him a new one. But these chains still had a lot of life - just needed to adjust the depth gauges (I use a stone in a rotary tool for that). I fixed up some of the "worn out" chains he kept and he said they cut like new!

The local shop didn't even know about the cheap little tool that checks the depth gauge heights and lets you know when and how much to shorten them. (lay it across two teeth so the depth gauge is in the slot and you can feel if it's needs shortening.) But in two minutes they found the tool and ordered one for me. Maybe they should read the manuals for the saws they sell - Stihl spells all this out in their manual.

Warning: shortening the depth gauges more than needed can make the saw much more aggressive - OK at times but don't let it catch you off guard!

JKJ
 
I do tend to flip my bar some times, though I don't use it like I used to any more. I did have one that would cut very nice curves, but not straight, then found out about having the bar straightened out. Well, the "fixed" bar lasted an hour or two before it went wonky again. I ended up getting a new bar. Also, there can be a very nice burr along the edge of the bar from where the chain rubs. Watched another technician at a saw shop cut himself with it. Lesson learned before I did it to myself.

robo hippy
 
I used the hand file method, I use the 2-1 Stihl in the field but when I get home I use the 12v one mentioned in the Youtube video above; that one works REALLY well and you can get it at better prices if you shop around. The only thing I did was import some Stihl raker gauges from the UK (Stihl does not sell them in the USA) and those are MUCH better than anything available stateside and I can knock those back to the line suggested by the gauge with a couple of swipes of the flat file. It doesn't make sense to mess with the 12v version to do those, it's not worth the setup time and I can leave the 12v cutter set up for my bars.

I have 4 chainsaw with different chains for different uses (e.g. milling) and so the 12v beats the 2-1 as I can use it easily at different angles
Ed
 
John K Jordan said:
I do take files when my chainsaw goes to the woods, just in case, but normally use a chain grinder in the shop since it is so much faster and can give a sharper chain. I first bought a cheap grinder from Northern Tool and learned my lesson. Got a good Oregon from Bailey's Online, my go-to for everything related to chainsaw and arborist things, PPE, etc..

Bailey's Online Homepage

www.baileysonline.com www.baileysonline.com
If I can't find what I want on their website I just call - they've always been very helpful.

But the best thing to take to the woods is a spare bar and chain! Just swap with a worn chain and sharpen both when I get back to the shop.
Ever pinch a saw in a kerf? Just take off the head, put on the spare bar and chain, and cut the pinched one free.

Someone mentioned the excellent practice of flipping the bar at each sharpening and filing the bar smooth as it wears. Another thing is handy: after a while the groove in the bar can widen and the chain can get sloppy, lean from side to side, cause the cut to wander, and accelerate the wear. Long ago I bought a tool made for squeezing edges of the bar to better fit the chain and extend the life.

And one of the best things I got, the same month I bought this farm, was an education. Some was from several books but especially from this little book, "The Good Woodcutters Guide"
He explains the what and the how and the what NOT to do, warns against ways things can go wrong that can injure or kill.

How can you guard against what you can't imagine?

JKJ
Click to expand...
I agree completely about education. My local county extension offers regular chain saw safety classes. They are terrific.
 
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