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- Jan 27, 2005
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Too cold to go outside, still looking at metals.
Where I can get prices without requesting a quote and dealing with salespeople CPM-15V is 67% higher priced than CPM-10V. It also offers almost twice the wearability so 15V is actually cheaper over the life of the tool. When it comes to shaping or sharpening the alloys, both fall around 30-35% of the machinability of 1% carbon steel which I assume is mild steel. The people that make it say to use CBN or a special ceramic aluminum oxide to shape or sharpen it. I couldn't find the SG wheels to fit standard bench grinders, perhaps a seven inch wheel, no real information. However, using any of the more common aluminum oxides flattens the grit on the wheel or belt and is not the preferred method of sharpening 10V or 15V per the maker.
I haven't looked for other sources but a bit of trivia or maybe something useful to someone that frequents gun shows and such, stellite is used for some machine gun barrels. I think it gives about fifteen times the life of a standard barrel at about fifteen times the cost. A wash in terms of life but saves a lot of labor and of course the barrel doesn't fail in combat. One barrel would be a lifetime supply of stellite, might cut with a water cutter but I don't know.
It is interesting to explore all of this, I even found the steps of how CPM is made. In the end I think the KISS rule applies for me though and quality M-2 may indeed be better than the 10V with the sharpening equipment I have. I think I will still buy CPM when I can, when I get enough tools I'll have to upgrade to CBN wheels!
Hu
Fifteen times the cost for a stellite barrel might possibly mean fifteen times the total cost if it includes labor.
When comparing 10V to 15V, technical data often doesn't translate into discernible differences under real world conditions where things can't be so clearly defined as they are in a controlled test.
When the 15V tools first came out, I asked a person whose initials are D.T. at the SWAT symposium what the big deal was about 15V as compared to 10V since the 15V tools were quite a bit more expensive. He said something to the effect that the 10V tools were more than adequate when doing a cost vs. performance comparison. And, that's all that I'm going to say about that. Talk to D.T. if you want to know more.
FWIW, my favorite bowl gouge is a Sorby half-inch M2 gouge. It has a flute that is highly polished with no milling marks and is a bit more V shaped than the Crown M4 PM bowl gouges. It seems to go a bit longer than the Crown tools between sharpenings, but that is very subjective and not based on any sort of honest testing.
Another favorite of mine for removing lots of wood fast is my ¾" Henry Taylor Kryo bowl gouge. I have it ground with steep wings and about 45° nose angle. It does a great job of holding its edge.
I have four Thompson bowl gouges plus several other Thompson tools. The bowl gouges are nice and hold an edge well, but I don't care for the stair-step milling marks in the flute. D.T. says that they aren't any rougher than any other brand, but that simply is not true. If I were sharpening them on a 43 grit AO wheel maybe I wouldn't mind the the jagged cutting edge, but when using my Tormek to create a final finishing edge, there is a scratch pattern left on the wood. The same issue might exist with a 400 grit grit CBN wheel to create a polished bevel. The resulting sawtooth cutting edge is only a problem if I am working on wood that doesn't sand well because of variation in grain hardness. or if it is punky.