Box Turning - Must Haves?

[Jake Hillestad]

I'm looking to start getting into turning boxes. Up to this point I've been mostly a spindle turner and dabbled in natural edge bowls. I currently turn on a Oneway 1224 and have a decent arsenal of tooling - mostly Dway and Thompson.

Obviously everyone has preferences that will very task to task. My question is this (particular to boxes) - is there anything you find you wouldn't want to be without or something that may be a luxury but is exactly the tool for the job? Tooling, rests, work holding, etc.....

Thanks in advance.

 

[Owen Lowe]

A square-edge scraper is pretty indispensable for sizing the lid/base mortise and tenon (I actually use a bedan for this). It can also be used down the inside of the base to get straight sides.

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

Boxes are fun because they don't need a lot of tools, or big pieces of dry wood.
My usual tools for boxes are spindle gouge ( for shaping the outside and hollowing ), parting tool.
A chuck is nice to have, but jam chucks are used by many.
Optional tools are Square end scraper with the left side sharpened to clean up and square the inside.
A hunter tool can be used to clean the inside end grain where it is difficult to sand.
A 'point tool' or 1/4" round skew to decorate the inside of the top or bottom.
A chatter tool to decorate the top ( end grain ).
Sometimes I cheat and use a forstner ( or other large drill ) bit to remove the bulk.

 

[Richard Coers]

A good chuck with dovetail jaws. I hate having to grip more than 3/16" when working high end materials. A good flexible neck light is valuable so you can focus the light when working the inside or out. I use a bedan to size the mortise and tenon. Probably the most valuable tool would be Richard Raffan's book on box making.

 

[RichColvin]

My MDF rose engine lathe ... for the lids!

 

[Dean Center]

I agree with the above recommendations. To me, the only tool for end grain work that is special and that makes a huge difference is a hunter tool or hook tool or termite tool (in order of my experience with them and preference)

 

[hockenbery]

Maybe thread chasers if you are of mind to make threaded lids

sort of repeat of what others have posted
square end scraper, parting tool, spindle gouge, and #4 hunter will take care of the basic box,
A termite or hook tool can improve the hollowing.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

My MDF rose engine lathe ... for the lids!

Are you selling it?

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I'm looking to start getting into turning boxes. Up to this point I've been mostly a spindle turner and dabbled in natural edge bowls. I currently turn on a Oneway 1224 and have a decent arsenal of tooling - mostly Dway and Thompson.

Obviously everyone has preferences that will very task to task. My question is this (particular to boxes) - is there anything you find you wouldn't want to be without or something that may be a luxury but is exactly the tool for the job? Tooling, rests, work holding, etc.....

Thanks in advance.

I have a huge arsenal of tools, over 24 years collecting them. For boxes I use my Doug Thompson 5/8 Lyle Jamieson Spindle gouge a lot. I can hollow a shallow box in seconds. Another one is the Jimmy Clewes box scraper but I converted it to a mini round nose NRS. (do not tell Jimmy) Probably the best tool for the very bottom is a Mike Hunter #4, leaves a glossy finish, you will scratch it of you start with 400 grit. Of course, anybody can make a box, I took mine to the next level, hand chased threads, and now, some with carved feet. Beware: box making is an addiction, you can't just make one... Aloha

 

[john lucas]

I love the Hunter #4 for box interiors. I used to hate sanding box interiors. Using the Hunter tool I often dont even sand the bottom and just lightly on the sides. Here is my video on that tool. About 5 minutes in I show turning the bottom of a box.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfp2kvhH6Mo&t=343s

 

[Bill Blasic]

For boxes a Jimmy Clewes box scraper is a must. Made from a Tompson scraper.

 

[Tom Albrecht]

A Boxrest from Robust: http://www.turnrobust.com/?s=box+rest

Negative rake scrapers from Boxmaster: https://boxmastertools.com/

 

[robo hippy]

Well, there is no end for what you could get...... I do recommend going to Boxmaster and Jimmy Allen. He has taken over D Way tools. He has the widest selection of NRSs out there, and some are double ended. He also has a really nice box tool rest. I generally use scrapers for my hollowing, though using a gouge to drill like a spoon drill bit is great for going down the inside. If I am doing a mortice and tenon for box and lid, I keep a 6 inch straight rule to put against both surfaces so I can eye ball them for being perfectly parallel to the lathe bed. This is essential for the '3 second drop' test for a perfect fit, where it takes 3 or so seconds for the lid to fall off. I like a skew chisel type of NRS for adjusting the shoulder of a threaded box for 'timing' the threads so the grain lines up. For smaller boxes, I keep some of the soft pvc pipe rings with a slot cut in them, so I can put the lid and box back in the chuck to finish turn the bottom and the tenon on the lid for a clean cut and finish. I don't use any of the ring type cutters or the Hunter tools. I find the NRS will do every thing, and very clean as well. I have maybe a dozen different NRS tools for boxes....

robo hippy

 

[Jake Hillestad]

Thanks everyone, looking into suggestions now.

 

[JeffSmith]

One thing I haven’t seen mentioned is a thin parting tool - the D-Way ultra thin parting tool works well when parting lids for best grain match. It’s always handy when I make boxes.

 

[Michael Perez]

I have a huge arsenal of tools, over 24 years collecting them. For boxes I use my Doug Thompson 5/8 Lyle Jamieson Spindle gouge a lot. I can hollow a shallow box in seconds. Another one is the Jimmy Clewes box scraper but I converted it to a mini round nose NRS. (do not tell Jimmy) Probably the best tool for the very bottom is a Mike Hunter #4, leaves a glossy finish, you will scratch it of you start with 400 grit. Of course, anybody can make a box, I took mine to the next level, hand chased threads, and now, some with carved feet. Beware: box making is an addiction, you can't just make one... Aloha

Hello Emiliano. I’m looking for info about Jimmy Clewes box scraper, I just read your comments.
I’m about to buy it for flattening the bottom of the boxes and the walls.
First I was thinking in buying the d-way box master (same tool) but it’s not in stock and its just 1/4 inch thick, then also was looking for Robust box scraper but i decided for Jimmy Clewes because of the thickness and thompson steel. But you mentioned that you changed the shape of your Jimy y clewes maybe is there another way to flatten the bottom of the box?
I was doing it with my skew chisel (radiuses edge) and it’s difficult to be dead flat, I’m not getting an even surface maybe it’s my technique.
please do you have any advice or recommendations before I buy the tool?
greetings.

 

[William Rogers]

One of the fun things making boxes is adding texture or using inlay material with them. I use the Sorby micro spiraling tool and a chatter tool a lot to decorate boxes. I also use inlay of various materials in my boxes.

 

[Bill T Tucker]

All good advice above with different methods for achieving good results. But one essential is the ability to see inside the box while cutting the inside...may I suggest an inexpensive solution...a small LED wand with magnets that runs on AC current (batteries fail at the worst possible time). Stick it to the inside of the tool rest facing the open box and it will light up the interior...got one from Cindy Drozda for $35 and Love it.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I recommend looking at some of the box making videos that Richard Raffan made, shows what you need and how to.

Richard Raffan making boxes

 

[Kevin Jenness]

All good advice above with different methods for achieving good results. But one essential is the ability to see inside the box while cutting the inside...may I suggest an inexpensive solution...a small LED wand with magnets that runs on AC current (batteries fail at the worst possible time). Stick it to the inside of the tool rest facing the open box and it will light up the interior...got one from Cindy Drozda for $35 and Love it.

I have that same light- it's great! Bright and tiny with a strong magnet and runs off line power. Good for hollow form openings as well.

She also has several scrapers made of 10V steel. The straight sided flat bottomed one with rounded edge is quite useful. Drozda scrapers

 

[Michael Perez]

One of the fun things making boxes is adding texture or using inlay material with them. I use the Sorby micro spiraling tool and a chatter tool a lot to decorate boxes. I also use inlay of various materials in my boxes.

Thank you , I’m preparing blocks of wood with different colors for adding accents, I’m also about to buy a 1/16 beading and the diamond point tool from D-way, I don’t have tool for textures but I‘be read that it also could be done with a dremel bit that has similar texture.

 

[Michael Perez]

All good advice above with different methods for achieving good results. But one essential is the ability to see inside the box while cutting the inside...may I suggest an inexpensive solution...a small LED wand with magnets that runs on AC current (batteries fail at the worst possible time). Stick it to the inside of the tool rest facing the open box and it will light up the interior...got one from Cindy Drozda for $35 and Love it.

Hello, thank you I’ve been using a flex led light and also an architect lamp type but after reading your comments just checked the small LED from Cindy Droza and it’s really amazing very ingenious, it’s just a smart alternative.

 

[Michael Perez]

I have that same light- it's great! Bright and tiny with a strong magnet and runs off line power. Good for hollow form openings as well.

She also has several scrapers made of 10V steel. The straight sided flat bottomed one with rounded edge is quite useful. Drozda scrapers

thank you, After checking and overthinking about the tool for the bottom of the boxes I think that the Jimmy Clewes could be a good option because it’s 3/4 wide and 3/8 thick and I’ve been reading that the scraper needs to be hefty and it’s one of the thickest, the others are mostly 1/4 thick.
But for now I’m also think in modifying just a little my radiuses skew, maybe flattening just a little portion of the edge.

 

[Michael Perez]

I recommend looking at some of the box making videos that Richard Raffan made, shows what you need and how to.

Richard Raffan making boxes

Hello, thank you yes, now my wife and i are watching boxes videos from many woodturners including Richard Raffan.
this are our movies for now instead of HBO.
greetings

 

[Doug Freeman]

I don’t have tool for textures but I‘be read that it also could be done with a dremel bit that has similar texture.

This kit is for a tool to hold dremel bits for texturing. There are many diy methods, all using bushings. This one uses roller bearings. I’ve had mine for 5-6 years, works great.

Mini-Texturing Tool Kit for Woodturners

Mini-Texturing Tool Kit for Woodturners - this mini-texturing tool hardware parts kit provides the hardware necessary for you to build a superb texturing tool sold at Highland Woodworking.

www.highlandwoodworking.com

Chatter tools are easy to make - web search them. Hacksaw blades make good blades for them.

A diamond point tool is easy to make/grind. Utube has videos. ~1/4” rod ~6” long is all that’s needed.

Any scraper, or piece of steel of the proper material and dimensions, can be turned into whatever scraper type/shape wanted - just set the grinder platform at the needed angle and create the shape. M2 works well enough for me, havent found the need for m42 or v10 for scrapers. A burnished burr lasts a lot longer and cuts better vs one off the grinder.

A Robust box rest works well to insert into deeper boxes to support the scraper. There are other brands also.

 

[Michael Perez]

This kit is for a tool to hold dremel bits for texturing. There are many diy methods, all using bushings. This one uses roller bearings. I’ve had mine for 5-6 years, works great.

Mini-Texturing Tool Kit for Woodturners

Mini-Texturing Tool Kit for Woodturners - this mini-texturing tool hardware parts kit provides the hardware necessary for you to build a superb texturing tool sold at Highland Woodworking.

www.highlandwoodworking.com

Chatter tools are easy to make - web search them. Hacksaw blades make good blades for them.

A diamond point tool is easy to make/grind. Utube has videos. ~1/4” rod ~6” long is all that’s needed.

Any scraper, or piece of steel of the proper material and dimensions, can be turned into whatever scraper type/shape wanted - just set the grinder platform at the needed angle and create the shape. M2 works well enough for me, havent found the need for m42 or v10 for scrapers. A burnished burr lasts a lot longer and cuts better vs one off the grinder.

A Robust box rest works well to insert into deeper boxes to support the scraper. There are other brands also.

Thank you so much, totally agree with the diamond point from a rod, also saw cheap ones for other brands
and as you mentioned it’s just from a rod sharpen to an angle, what make me think in D-way is that they have the hole shaft shaped as a pointed tear, do you think it will make the difference and worth the 55 dollars?

 

[Richard Coers]

You can make simple boxes with a parting tool, a scraper, and a 4 jaw chuck. That's all that is necessary to start.

 

[Michael Perez]

You can make simple boxes with a parting tool, a scraper, and a 4 jaw chuck. That's all that is necessary to start.

Hello thank you, im lucky that I have almost everything you mentioned except the scraper for flattening the bottom of the boxes, I was doing it with my skew but maybe it’s better with a dedicated scraper.
for the scraper I’m between Jimmy clewes 3/8 thick and 3/4 wide or Robust 9/32 thick and 3/4 wide.
I just made one box and just start a second one I’ll attach a picture.
if you have any advise I’ll thank a lot

 

[Doug Freeman]

what make me think in D-way is that they have the hole shaft shaped as a pointed tear, do you think it will make the difference and worth the 55 dollars?

I’m sure the dway tool works well and would be easier to sharpen, but I would never pay $55+ shipping for something so easily made in the shop and not used a great deal. While a piece of m2 rod would be better, a dull drill bit could be used - put the twist end in the handle, and dont blue it while grinding, it will loose its temper. I use 2 - one at 30 deg per side, and one at 20deg per side.

I like to make my box bottoms with a round corner, sometimes the bottom is fully curved like a bowl. Easier to sand if needed and stuff comes out of the box easier. Just how I like ‘em, either way works.

As for scrapers, I use hi value ones (low price, good enough steel) from psi, benjamins best. They are thick and my hardness files say they are over 65 Rc. Buy the cheapest of the size desired, and grind the wanted shape, flat top or nrs.

 

[William Rogers]

Thank you , I’m preparing blocks of wood with different colors for adding accents, I’m also about to buy a 1/16 beading and the diamond point tool from D-way, I don’t have tool for textures but I‘be read that it also could be done with a dremel bit that has similar texture.the Sorby

Michael, you can make your own “Elf” tool that would use burs to create texture (I made one) and possibly ha handle for the Sorby tool. However I would buy the Sorby tool with the handle as you can’t make the wheels IMO.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

Has anyone mentioned calipers? A set of calipers and a accurate ruler are nice to have. I use them to measure the lid opening against the box opening to get a good fit.

 

[Tom Lucas]

A box scraper and box rest are essential, especially for bigger boxes. A box scraper is sharpened on the left edge and across the end. The end is angled to slightly less than 90 degrees so as to not catch the bottom. I ground mine onto a Thompson 3/4" scraper. This type of scraper makes straight sidewalls and is quick about it. It can be aggressive and leave a rough wall. The trick is to take small bites as you get close to finished diameter.
I have 2 box rests - a large Robust, and a small Bestwoodtools. I use them both. You can pretty readily get by without the small one when making fairly shallow boxes. But having one makes it quick, mindless, and safe. For bigger, deep boxes I wouldn't attempt without the large box rest or use a captured hollowing system. Some low profile rests can be inserted into the box to better support the tool close to the cut. This works, but attack angle is limited and so is visibility.

There are lots of options to hollow the center and shape the bottom.

My technique is to hollow the center with a gouge. Cut down the edge with a box scraper. Clean up the sweep in the bottom with a round nose scraper. Finish cut with a Hunter or NRS. Might not be like the pros, but it's what seems to work best for me.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

I have 2 box rests - a large Robust, and a small Bestwoodtools. I use them both. You can pretty readily get by without the small one when making fairly shallow boxes. But having one makes it quick, mindless, and safe.

I just learned something new, I can go to bed now. lol I'm not sure how I missed learning about box rests but wow! thank you so much for mentioning it. After reading your post I spent some time researching box rest and they sound really helpful. I have a couple of other rests such as a J and S shaped rests but not a box rest. I suspect a new rest will soon join the others.

 

[Michael Perez]

Has anyone mentioned calipers? A set of calipers and an accurate ruler are nice to have. I use them to measure the lid opening against the box opening to get a good fit.

Thank you, totally agree i have a digital caliper, rulers and very tiny double square that is also nice for checking squarenesses of the lid and box in general.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

That Robust box rest is very useful even if you never make boxes. Note the pin is removable.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

That Robust box rest is very useful even if you never make boxes. Note the pin is removable.

That's good to know. I occasionally turn beer steins and a box rest would be very helpful.

 

[Michael Perez]

A box scraper and box rest are essential, especially for bigger boxes. A box scraper is sharpened on the left edge and across the end. The end is angled to slightly less than 90 degrees so as to not catch the bottom. I ground mine onto a Thompson 3/4" scraper. This type of scraper makes straight sidewalls and is quick about it. It can be aggressive and leave a rough wall. The trick is to take small bites as you get close to finished diameter.
I have 2 box rests - a large Robust, and a small Bestwoodtools. I use them both. You can pretty readily get by without the small one when making fairly shallow boxes. But having one makes it quick, mindless, and safe. For bigger, deep boxes I wouldn't attempt without the large box rest or use a captured hollowing system. Some low profile rests can be inserted into the box to better support the tool close to the cut. This works, but attack angle is limited and so is visibility.

There are lots of options to hollow the center and shape the bottom.

My technique is to hollow the center with a gouge. Cut down the edge with a box scraper. Clean up the sweep in the bottom with a round nose scraper. Finish cut with a Hunter or NRS. Might not be like the pros, but it's what seems to work best for me.

Hello, thank you so much for all the valuable recommendation and I also think that a box scraper will be better than the radiuses skew im using. The box rests are totally new to me, do you think that for boxes around 3" and 3 1/2 " do I also need box rest? from how deep will be a must?

 

[Michael Perez]

That Robust box rest is very useful even if you never make boxes. Note the pin is removable.

hello I just saw it at the wood turning store. I’ll have to ask if it’s compatible with my Rikon lathe 70-150 vsr. What are the other benefits of using a box rest besides doing boxes?

 

[Michael Perez]

Michael, you can make your own “Elf” tool that would use burs to create texture (I made one) and possibly ha handle for the Sorby tool. However I would buy the Sorby tool with the handle as you can’t make the wheels IMO.

Thanks, I have some dremel bits that are similar shape could I just put it in my dremel and try or it wouldnt be appropriate ?

 

[Doug Freeman]

Thanks, I have some dremel bits that are similar shape could I just put it in my dremel and try or it wouldnt be appropriate ?

I tried that years ago when I first learned about using dremel bits. Too much rotational drag on the tool bit, and its difficult to support the dremel tool on the tool rest properly. It kinda works, but the tools that have less drag and have a shaft to place on the tool rest (like the elf and the kit I linked to) are far superior.