Box Finish

[Bill Alston]

I have some threaded boxes planned and I’m considering what finish to use. Most of them will be in pale woods like Maple, Holly, Plane etc. My two go to finishes are normally just oil and wax or sanding sealer and Microcrystalline wax. Anyone care to comment on their favourite finish for boxes, particularly in pale coloured woods?

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

I don't turn many light wood boxes, but if I did, I would probably skip the lacquer as it may yellow or make the white wood look off white and just finish by either buffing with the Beall system, or using abrasive wax, followed by some type of polish, like beeswax.

 

[Gary W Miller]

2 coats of Cellulose lacquer sealer. "0000" Steel wool rubbed back right to the wood. Renaissance wax lightly applied and power buffed instantly. Renaissance wax doesn't show finger prints or attract dust.

 

[robo hippy]

Spray lacquer does not stand up to heavy use. I do put it on the inside of my boxes. If you use a penetrating type of "Danish" oil, the smell never goes away. I have come to prefer the Rubio monocote. I do finish up a bunch at one time. I prefer it to the Osmo. Standard wipe on poly will work fine on the outside.

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

I haven't broken out my air brush for but I know others who use color effectively with a variety of things made with light-colored wood. Or enhance with woodburning. Or both. Or texturing, perhaps with a contrasting filler. Or carving.

JKJ

 

[Richard Coers]

Spray lacquer does not stand up to heavy use. I do put it on the inside of my boxes. If you use a penetrating type of "Danish" oil, the smell never goes away. I have come to prefer the Rubio monocote. I do finish up a bunch at one time. I prefer it to the Osmo. Standard wipe on poly will work fine on the outside.

robo hippy

Little boxes rarely get heavy use in my experiences, plus lacquer sprayed inside a tight lid box will stink for at least a year. Absolutely don't put wipe on poly inside a box, it stinks longer. Shellac or water based is the preferred inside finish, if not both inside and outside.

 

[Larry Copas]

favourite finish for boxes, particularly in pale coloured woods?

Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic lacquer. Clear as water in the can and the same way on the wood. Has UV absorber to help keep wood from changing color. Available in different sheen's. Meets Kitchen Cabinet Manufactures Association (KCMA) standards for resistance to stains if sanding sealer is put down first. I normally don't use sanding sealer on boxes. I sprayed this on all the woodwork and kitchen cabinets in my house 12 years ago and it still looks great.

Best oil I have found for white woods is Livos. It is a small step down from the SW lacquer for color retention.

Anybody using water based? I tried some years ago and liked the appearance but it did not hold up. I hear big improvements have been made.

 

[Bill Alston]

Thanks for all the comments so far. I realised I have the book on boxes by Chris Stott, and in the finishing section sanding sealer and wax seemed to be the preferred finish at the time.

 

[John K Jordan]

Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic lacquer. ...

Anybody using water based? I tried some years ago and liked the appearance but it did not hold up. I hear big improvements have been made.

The late great John Jordan, the famous one, told me he sprayed matte acrylic on all of his pieces. (I think he wasn't going for the glossy look, but for protection)
Perhaps someone else has more information.

And an extremely wonderful local woodworker and turner, Mo Whitson, who has also sadly passed away, said he used water based on all of his pieces. I have wonderful table and several of his benches. They have defied both scratches and water.


BTW, that gentleman floored and trimmed his house with bubinga, guatambu, and other incredible wood.

Ha, can't say the same about holding up for that Yamaha classical I bought in the '60s and terribly abused over the next half-century+
Still sounds the same, though!

JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

Oops! My bad. I use Bulls Eye Spray Shellac. Learned that from Bonnie Klein. Any odor is gone in seconds.

robo hippy

 

[Dean Center]

On the inside of boxes, which get nearly no contact in use, I use friction polish. Put it on when the inside is done and sanded, easily apply a little friction since it's still on the lathe, and it's done.
Outside, you're on your own--everybody's aesthetic is different.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Spray lacquer does not stand up to heavy use. I do put it on the inside of my boxes. If you use a penetrating type of "Danish" oil, the smell never goes away. I have come to prefer the Rubio monocote. I do finish up a bunch at one time. I prefer it to the Osmo. Standard wipe on poly will work fine on the outside.

robo hippy

Just looking at the Monocote. What substance(s) comprise the accelerator?

 

[robo hippy]

It is a 2 part system. Without the "hardener" it takes a month or so to set up fully. With the hardener, it is safe to touch after over night sitting. I don't really know the chemistry of it. It isn't as stinky as Danish oils, and pretty much safe to use inside without the whole house stinking, or shop.... There are a number of You Tube videos about it. Most will put 2 coats on rather than "monocoting" it. Some will finish with an acrylic finish that comes from the auto industry, but I don't really know about that. I think it is better than Osmo, which many like. Better protection. A little tiny bit of it goes a looooong way, far more than you would expect. I think it is only available from the makers in Texas some where. They do have indoor and outdoor formulas, and all sorts of tints. I prefer the clear.

robo hippy

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

. I have come to prefer the Rubio monocote.

Robo is this what you use? https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/oil-plus-2c-130ml

 

[Doug Freeman]

For a quick water clear finish on smaller items, say 6”x6” or so, Parfix 3408. I use it a lot. Mark Sillay demos it

View: https://youtu.be/8AzjdN7eaJk?si=mfy5ud-wbCszEf0Q