Blanks w/o Bandsaw

[Mark Mandell]

Mark,

I just saw the photo of you and your saw. Two things stood out in my mind.

First really nice saw.

Second the chip stream is so weak I can't even see it.

Have you tried cutting with the engine running????? 🙂

happy turning,
Al

Thanks Al [although I didn't make the thing 😉 ]

Yeah, I tried that "power thang", but it was quite a bit noisier and used a whole lot more gas and oil. 😀

Saw and me got a workout that day, and there were ribbons a-plenty. I was not unhappy when the chain started going dull some hours later! The piece in the picture was the very bottom of a walnut crotch and I nailed both pithe centers in the one cut. Center was heavy purple and the oohs and ahhs came out when the two halves fell apart.

M

 

[-e-]

mark, what are you running 372? 385? ...

i've been using rip-chains from Granberg (http://www.granberg.com/) which i really like especially since they're just down the road

 

[Mark Mandell]

mark, what are you running 372? 385? ...

i've been using rip-chains from Granberg (http://www.granberg.com/) which i really like especially since they're just down the road

WHAT?!!!

e, say it ain't so, PL-EEEESE

You're using Granberg rip chain in a hand held saw? That is NEVER [ever] to be done according to every cutter, sawyer, and logging supplier with whom I've ever spoken. Granberg chain is designed to be used as a true ripping chain in their Alaskan Mills. It is optimized to cut smoothly across endgrain only as when cutting lumber. It runs cooler and clogs less easily in that application, and is made from full-comp stock by grinding off the top plates on every other left/right cutter set, but leaving the rest of the cutters intact to work as scoring knives. It's got HUGE kickback potential, and needs the mill's bracing to be safe. Oregon also makes a dedicated milling chain called "RD" that is a different design.

Skip tooth is often confused with Granberg chain, but, in fact they are very different. Skip-tooth provides the similar benefit of reducing the stress on the engine with fewer cutters so longer bars can be used on smaller power heads which can then run at higher rpms.

My 372 [not 385] will pull a 28" full-comp chain or a 32" skip. I have and use f/c chain, but really only when crosscutting courser fibered woods like oak, walnut, and such.

Mark

 

[underdog]

Found that jig for circle cutting on the table saw. It's in Jim Tolpin's book; "Table Saw Magic". He's using it to cut sheet goods, but I suppose that one could get some ideas for cutting bowl blanks. The folks over at the Woodweb had some good ideas..

 

[-e-]

not a good idea:

i'd be very cautious using a t/s for green wood -- i've heard of some very bad injuries from this ....

 

[-e-]

WHAT?!!!

e, say it ain't so, PL-EEEESE

You're using Granberg rip chain in a hand held saw? That is NEVER [ever] to be done according to every cutter, sawyer, and logging supplier with whom I've ever spoken. Granberg chain is designed to be used as a true ripping chain in their Alaskan Mills. It is optimized to cut smoothly across endgrain only as when cutting lumber. It runs cooler and clogs less easily in that application, and is made from full-comp stock by grinding off the top plates on every other left/right cutter set, but leaving the rest of the cutters intact to work as scoring knives. It's got HUGE kickback potential, and needs the mill's bracing to be safe. Oregon also makes a dedicated milling chain called "RD" that is a different design.

Skip tooth is often confused with Granberg chain, but, in fact they are very different. Skip-tooth provides the similar benefit of reducing the stress on the engine with fewer cutters so longer bars can be used on smaller power heads which can then run at higher rpms.

My 372 [not 385] will pull a 28" full-comp chain or a 32" skip. I have and use f/c chain, but really only when crosscutting courser fibered woods like oak, walnut, and such.

Mark

well, actually ... a rip chain is really a bad idea if you are not experienced, have a small saw, or if you are falling trees and limbing -- but for ripping log sections in a pretty controlled environment, it's works well. and once the blade is solid into the wood, it slices right through. though, you have to be particularly cautious when doing back-cuts, and i dont try to carve with a rip-chain.

skip-tooth chains are better than your standard chain for ripping but wear-out quickly.

so yes, there is greater potential for kickback but the cuts are so much easier, quicker and cleaner, and thus less cutting time for me.

and yes, i wear my sexy orange hat and ears, with chaps and gloves...which probably is a good idea for any chain :>)