Bandsaw Advice / Priorities?

[robo hippy]

I am wondering, for those who have high cutting capacity on their bandsaws, what blade do you use. I never even considered a 1/2 inch blade on my 16HD. I would think it would be impossible to get enough tension on the blade to keep it cutting any where near straight. I have the Lennox bimetal resaw blade that is 1 1/4 inch wide and teeth about 3/4 inch apart.

There are a lot of old 'big' bandsaws out there, but they only cut maybe 12 inches high at most.

If you are selling your work and do a lot of bowls, having that cutting height on your bandsaw is a HUGE plus for time saving, both on ease of cutting slabs, and in getting blanks with parallel sides so you spend far less time roughing.

robo hippy

 

[Allen Mattsen]

I have a question: why would one want/need two miter slots on a bandsaw or how useful might that be?

 

[Tim Tucker]

I am wondering, for those who have high cutting capacity on their bandsaws, what blade do you use. I never even considered a 1/2 inch blade on my 16HD. I would think it would be impossible to get enough tension on the blade to keep it cutting any where near straight. I have the Lennox bimetal resaw blade that is 1 1/4 inch wide and teeth about 3/4 inch apart.

There are a lot of old 'big' bandsaws out there, but they only cut maybe 12 inches high at most.

If you are selling your work and do a lot of bowls, having that cutting height on your bandsaw is a HUGE plus for time saving, both on ease of cutting slabs, and in getting blanks with parallel sides so you spend far less time roughing.

robo hippy

First - loved your chainsaw chop saw video...
I use a 3/8" or 1/2" 3 TPI. As I don't try to force or rush the wood, it is not a problem. Blade tension has not been a problem yet. But - I do not have the decades of experience you do. Perhaps I have not "tested" the limits as I may at some point.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

what blade do you use. I never even considered a 1/2 inch blade on my 16HD. I would think it would be impossible to get enough tension on the blade to keep it cutting any where near straight.

I have a steel frame 14" (Jet 14 SFX). It came with a 5/16" blade. I bought a 3/4" Resaw King and have no trouble tensioning as far as determined by my tension guage and my finger tip. In fact I think I've been using it over tensioned.

I do think 3/4" may be too big. I use the Snodgrass set up method and with the gullets on the crown the back edge of the blade is just off the back of the wheel.

It does cut straight, but I am not necessarily using my saw for the same tasks as others.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I have a question: why would one want/need two miter slots on a bandsaw or how useful might that be?

I like the option of being able to run the miter guage on either side. Sometimes one side is a better set up than the other. On my table the slot runs out the right side of the table crossing the right miter slot and there's just a tiny step off that will catch the occaisional piece of wood as it passes.

It also offers some options if you are making/designing jigs.

 

[Allen Mattsen]

I have a 1/2", 4tpi Starrett/Woodcraft blade on my 10" bandsaw, which I'm sure I bent doing something dumb (taking a corner off a log w/out support) which is contributing to my frustration, but won't be talking me out of a new bandsaw, either. I'll use a thinner blade on this one for curves, jigs etc when I get a larger machine, most likely.

Why skip tooth vs hook tooth? I landed on this one somehow, but will take the info from this thread earlier when I do buy a new blade for one or the other saw(s).

 

[hockenbery]

I have a question: why would one want/need two miter slots on a bandsaw or how useful might that be?

The one thing that breaks blade in an instant is a small piece of wood falling through the throat on the wheel side and getting between the wheel and the blade. The blade can’t grow so it breaks.

a miter slot on the left would put the small cutoffs on the right.

when I do small pieces I use a sled the slot is cut by the blade and there is no possibly of small cutoffs going through the sled. Eliminates my need for two slots.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

. I’ve bought a package of these inserts and create what amounts to a zero-clearance slot for the blade. They are cheap enough that they can be replaced if the slot grows over time. They are pretty effective at keeping anything but dust from going under the table

The one thing that breaks blade in an instant is a small piece of wood falling through the throat on the wheel side and getting between the wheel and the blade. The blade can’t grow so it breaks.

 

[Tim Tucker]

Zero clearance inserts have likely done more for blade life than any other single thing on a the band saw.

 

[Larry Copas]

I suppose I should of got a patent!

Takes maybe 3 minutes to turn one out.

 

[Tim Tucker]

And..good practice!

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

In case no one has mentioned it, Delta 14" saws can use a height attachment increasing the cutting thickness to 12".

Cutting thickness, IMO, is far, far more important than throat depth.

Here's a Jet with extra height:

JET 14" Deluxe Pro Bandsaw ~ Model: JWBS-14DXPRO ~ 1-1/4 HP, 1Ph -...

JET 14" Deluxe Pro Bandsaw ~ Model: JWBS-14DXPRO ~ 1-1/4 HP, 1 Ph, 115V - Only $745.00! This is an unused surplus model, in great condition. Some minor cosmetic paint scratches from shipping. The...

seattle.craigslist.org

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Here is related question, but getting tangential.

I have heard that, unlike U.S. bandsaws, European bandsaw wheels are not crowned. I suppose if I could have my "druthers" I'd go without the crown, but I'm curious what others see as the relative merits?

 

[Dean Center]

Here is related question, but getting tangential.

I have heard that, unlike U.S. bandsaws, European bandsaw wheels are not crowned. I suppose if I could have my "druthers" I'd go without the crown, but I'm curious what others see as the relative merits?

It seems that with a domed tire/wheel, if you align the blade tracking so the gullet is in the center of the wheel, which is how I was taught to set things up, the the wider/kerfed teeth part of the blade would be over a lower part of the tire/wheel, with a little less pressure on the teeth, which might preserve the set of the teeth a little longer. Just speculating out loud.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I use the miter gauge from my table saw. It is longer on one side so if I have something short I am cutting I can move the miter to the left slot and have more to hold on to.

 

[Tim Tucker]

I have heard that, unlike U.S. bandsaws, European bandsaw wheels are not crowned. I suppose if I could have my "druthers" I'd go without the crown, but I'm curious what others see as the relative merits?

Was not aware of any other type wheel than "crowned"...Otherwise. How would you adjust where the blade ride on the wheel?

 

[Mike Johnson]

Plenty of estate sales will be coming up later this year with the Covid-19 thing winding down and people venturing back into the public realm. Plenty of older boomers will be scaling down, moving to retirement areas and or retirement homes. This was a very large segment of the population that kept the economy chugging along for decades and many of them had wood hobbies, wood shops, and wood related businesses before the Covid-19 thing struck. Many of these will be coming up for sale for a number of different reasons.

 

[John Jordan]

This is great to hear! I'm having a hard time talking myself out of this saw. For the price point, capacity, and features, it seems like a good value.

The larger Grizzly's are a very good value-simple and straightforward, easy to adjust simple guides. Bearings for guides are cheap from the local supply house. 2HP is plenty with good blades. I like the Timberwolf green wood blades and use 3/8 or 1/2 even on the large Grizzly. Found 3/4" were overkill.

John

 

[Nathan Roper]

Lol. I just melted the tires on my Laguna 18bx. I'm sure it was me and not the bandsaw. I'd been cutting green honey locust and walnut into blanks for the past 90 minutes. It happened in the middle of a walnut blank. I noticed something black at the point of entry on the blank and shut the saw off. Shouldn't have done that.

My blade is/was pretty dull. I was going to grind the teeth but I guess I'll need to cut the blade.

 

[Glenn C Roberts]

Some kinds of rubber melt, not necessarily because of heat, but because of age. I bought and old 14" craftsman band saw at an auction for $2, and the tires were "melted". The tires were soft and tacky, enough so one would think the tires are melting. I've seen old rubber on equipment I work on literally drip and run like glue.

 

[John Hebdon]

A old school 20" 1 HP Delta with steel guides. 3 TPI band in 1/4" to 1/2" width. The big advantage, and it is huge is the size of the table. Trying sawing a big rough 60 pound blank on a small table. I would not even consider a 14" saw for that reason.

Sawing bowl blanks for a week long bowl turning class.
View attachment 39096

Having written that, I must add that I never use the bandsaw to get a blank for myself. Its all chainsaw and lathe. When I went to David Ellsworth's shop last year for a week he had a 20" Powermatic bandsaw and we never turned it on. Several other turners do the same.

I have the same bandsaw that I picked up for $50. New tires, repaired the top blade guide and a new blade and she cuts like a dream. I like older tools. They seem to last a lot longer.

 

[Ed Jarvis]

I bought a craftsman 18" that was made by parks, parts still available. and it is wood and metal, installed 2hp motor