Axminster sk114 not fitting on grizzly g0766

[Sam Fleisher]

You'll have to excuse me for not knowing the terminology but here's a some pictures of my problem. The store was closed when I was trying to install but I thought maybe someone has had a similar problem.

The first pic is what I'm working with, second pic is as far as it screws on. It doesn't act like it's galled or anything it's a solid stop. Third pic shows plenty of threads to go.

My old chuck screwed on up to the face of the spindle past that smaller diameter shoulder. The axminster goes onto the smaller shoulder for a little bit then that's where it stops. Is that where they ride? Seems like it should be on further.

Thanks

 

[Michael Anderson]

Hi Sam! That’s frustrating. Your chuck should screw on all the way without a gap. Two things to check. Are you sure your SK114 is the version with 1.25 8tpi threads, and not the m33 3.5 version? And, your set screws aren’t screwed in, right? Beyond those two things, But m not sure. (I’m assuming your headstock spindle and the chuck threads are not damaged and are clean)

 

[Sam Fleisher]

It screws in fine until it doesn't. says it's the right one on the box. The set screws are out. The one pic shows it's clean no damage. The lathe is only around 4 years old with very little use. I need to get a battery for my calipers so I can measure later today. But it looks like there should be plenty of room before the threads start inside the chuck.

 

[Jim McLain]

Sam - I once had a sk114 direct thread that would not seat on my Titan 400 lathe but it was bottoming out inside the chuck. The new ones should be long enough. My guess would be the shoulder is a few thousands larger than the inside of the chuck or there is a burr inside the chuck where it meets the shoulder.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Sam - I once had a sk114 direct thread that would not seat on my Titan 400 lathe but it was bottoming out inside the chuck. The new ones should be long enough. My guess would be the shoulder is a few thousands larger than the inside of the chuck or there is a burr inside the chuck where it meets the shoulder.

That's what I'm figuring, I'm waiting for stuff to open around here so I can get some batteries for my calipers that probably won't work.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Just seems odd it went over that smaller shoulder a little bit before it stopped. And. Looking down in there eyeball says there's room before the threads start. I was reading a review older on the lathe and a couple people mentioned taking a file to the spindle. Don't know what chuck though And I want to be sure before I mess anything up.

 

[Dave Delo]

Take a small triangular file to that flat area on the spindle with the lathe running. Check often so you don't take too much off. Should take less than 10 minutes. Only need to take off a few thousands so the axminster will fit correctly.

 

[Brian Gustin]

Before taking a file to anything, get some easily removed marking (Acrylic paint from dollar store would work, or if you happen to have a machinist friend maybe he'll have a bit of Prussian Blue) and smear it on to the shoulder of spindle, then work chuck on til it stops, lightly snap it back and forth , before removing it, and then look for the mark (either shiny spot in the blue/paint, or transfer to the chuck) and you'd find what's hanging up. that way you won't be filing into something that doesn't need it.

 

[Bob Vaughan]

A black felt tipped marker works better for me than Prussian Blue or anything else. Its an easy clean-up with lacquer thinner.
I suspect that Prussian Blue is little more than blue tinted shellac. It actually makes a thicker coating than I like when trying for an accurate slip fit.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I liked that idea! You should know that prussian blue is a rare thing in Canton IL. But I was able to find some at the fourth place. A file was just a little easier to find.

 

[Joe Kaufman]

I suggest that you don't take a file to the spindle. I would suspect that the drilling and tapping operation for the 3 chuck locking set screws slightly distorted the I.D. I presume that you purchased the chuck from TWTS. If so, talk with Steve. Another option would be taking the chuck to a machine shop and asking a machinist to hand scrape just the area where the threads protrude the I.D. It's stainless steel, relatively soft and easy to do. If they had a plug gauge that size, they could check the I.D. also.

 

[Tom Gall]

DON'T try to turn anything with that gap. Good chance the chuck will bind on the spindle making it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to remove. Possibly damaging the threads on the chuck or the spindle. I have some old spindle adaptors and a faceplate with the same problem. IF there is nothing wrong with the threads on your chuck you may need to purchase a machined "arbor spacer(s)" that is just a little larger than the gap. They come in different ID's and thicknesses. I've bought a bunch in different sizes from Grizzly (inexpensive) about 25 years ago - don't know if they still carry them, but should be available from MSC, McMaster-Carr, and others.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I suggest that you don't take a file to the spindle. I would suspect that the drilling and tapping operation for the 3 chuck locking set screws slightly distorted the I.D. I presume that you purchased the chuck from TWTS. If so, talk with Steve. Another option would be taking the chuck to a machine shop and asking a machinist to hand scrape just the area where the threads protrude the I.D. It's stainless steel, relatively soft and easy to do. If they had a plug gauge that size, they could check the I.D. also.

You sound pretty specific. Happened to you?

 

[Joe Kaufman]

You sound pretty specific. Happened to you?

Yes, but it wasn't with an Axminster chuck. My SK114 was/is fine.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I couldn't get a good mark with the prussian blue by putting it on the spindle. (one I could see anyway)

I put some inside the chuck and screwed it on till it stopped. The mark is on the smaller shoulder behind the threads right on top of the corner. It's like the diameter is just a smidge too large. Fulgoni suggested I purchase a washer from mcmaster carr to fill in the gap. I don't like that fix, I think I'd rather make the diameter smaller. It's the equivalent of the washer without the washer and that smaller shoulder is supposed to go inside the chuck I believe like it did on the cheapy chuck I have been using.

Looking at the three set screws they have been cleaned up already it looks like. Small bevel around the holes.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I couldn't get a good mark with the prussian blue by putting it on the spindle. (one I could see anyway)

I put some inside the chuck and screwed it on till it stopped. The mark is on the smaller shoulder behind the threads right on top of the corner.

Possible it has been slightly mushroomed from your prior chucks? (If your fingers sensitive enough you might be able to feel a slight ridge, kind of like a burr on a scraper...) Basically if a prior chuck that also fit over the shoulder was not perfectly machined (wouldn't be a surprise with a cheapie chuck) such that it had a slight bit of taper where it contacts shoulder, coulda peened over the corner of the spindle? If I suspected that I'd probably take a small mill file and lay it flat on the spindle and take a short stroke, if there's a ridge, there'd be a prominent line right next to it. (where the file couldn't cut metal)

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Reference the first picture in first post, it looks almost brand new. There's not a lot of use on this lathe but I do remember back when I bought it about sometimes people had to file it to make their chucks work. I don't remember which chucks though. It was back in 17. I did go through the reviews on grizzlies site and a couple do mention having to file but they don't say what chuck either.

If all else fails and I mess it up a new spindle shaft can be had for $100.

I didn't buy a mill file this morning. I bought a triangle one like someone suggested. At least I'm adding to the tool collection. Does it have to be a mill?

 

[Brian Gustin]

Reference the first picture in first post, it looks almost brand new. There's not a lot of use on this lathe but I do remember back when I bought it about sometimes people had to file it to make their chucks work. I don't remember which chucks though. It was back in 17. I did go through the reviews on grizzlies site and a couple do mention having to file but they don't say what chuck either.

If all else fails and I mess it up a new spindle shaft can be had for $100.

I didn't buy a mill file this morning. I bought a triangle one like someone suggested. At least I'm adding to the tool collection. Does it have to be a mill?

MIll file refers to the cut, pretty much - Single cut flat file is what I use mostly (I have a box of chainsaw raker files left over from my small engine shop, so...) Triangle saw file could work, should be the same cut as long as you have a flat surface of the file to register cleanly along the shaft - a wider file would be better, as you can hold file flat and perpendicular to spindle (filing across) so that the flat will cover any ridge (if one exists) on the spindle - That way if you can draw a light stroke across the spindle, any high spots (I.E. the ridge if there is one) will be the first to be cut , and then you can see the shiny low spots which would indicate a ridge on the "corner" of the shoulder - If you don't get any high spots (That is, the single stroke of the file cuts evenly across its width) then you know the spindle is pretty much "trued" so if it is still a tad too big, perhaps it can be sanded down with emery cloth (spin up the lathe and just hold a length of emery cloth across it to take the surface down evenly - much better result than trying to hand file, I would think.. not as good of a result as having it machined down in a metal lathe though)

 

[Joe Kaufman]

I measured my PM3520 spindle shoulder with a Harbor Freight digital caliper, 1.248 inches. The I.D. of the SK114 measured 1.248 inches. There is a little clearance. where is the error?
1-2" micrometer spindle measurement is 1.248". With the 1" standard for the micrometer in the HF caliper the reading is 1.000". A micrometer measurement of the I.D. jaws with the 1" standard still in place is 1.003". 0.003" error is not unreasonable for a caliper that was under $20 a few years ago. Something to keep in mind.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Take a small triangular file to that flat area on the spindle with the lathe running. Check often so you don't take too much off. Should take less than 10 minutes. Only need to take off a few thousands so the axminster will fit correctly.

You called it! re-polished with some fine paper and I'm good to go! I had read several old reviews from the time I got my lathe and people said they had to dress the spindle when they got their G0766 to get a chuck to fit. I never had to because I have always used the small grizzly chuck.

In the end I decided re-sizing the shoulder on the spindle would be better than having a machine shop mess around with the chuck and possibly voiding the warranty if I ever needed to use it. (I don't think I have to worry about the warranty with this monster though)

Thanks for the responses!

 

[Doug Freeman]

When the G0766 lathe was introduced, this specific issue was often cited by owners (as was the too short banjo and maybe a 25mm tool post hole, ). Filing/sanding the shoulder ID was the fix. I believe within ~1 yr Grizzly took action, reducing the shoulder size and redesigning the banjo. Some chucks would fit, some would not. The OD of that shoulder is not a critical feature, the flatness and parallelism of the face that the chuck/insert face mates to is a critical feature - its what aligns the chuck. So, you even if you did kinda screw up the OD of the shoulder, nothing to worry about.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

When the G0766 lathe was introduced, this specific issue was often cited by owners (as was the too short banjo and maybe a 25mm tool post hole, ). Filing/sanding the shoulder ID was the fix. I believe within ~1 yr Grizzly took action, reducing the shoulder size and redesigning the banjo. Some chucks would fit, some would not. The OD of that shoulder is not a critical feature, the flatness and parallelism of the face that the chuck/insert face mates to is a critical feature - its what aligns the chuck. So, you even if you did kinda screw up the OD of the shoulder, nothing to worry about.

Mine was kind of in the middle of that. I had the longer banjo but drilled the tool rest hole to 1". The grizzly chuck fit fine so I never had to file until now. I made sure not to touch the face surface with the file.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Took the chuck for a drive a little bit ago. Way better than my old one. But, it's a good thing I still had the old one because I also used the speed sizer thinga-ma-bob and I guess I think differently than whoever made/designed it.

Like an idiot I didn't read any instructions just did the outside went to mark for a mortise. My thinking was internal meant for a mortise because you are inside it. Imagine my surprise when I had the outside all done, took it off the worm screw flipped it around and whoops internal means for a tenon grasped inside the jaws. Because the jaws definitely didn't fit in the mortise I made. Old chuck to the rescue!

 

[Brian Gustin]

Took the chuck for a drive a little bit ago. Way better than my old one. But, it's a good thing I still had the old one because I also used the speed sizer thinga-ma-bob and I guess I think differently than whoever made/designed it.

Like an idiot I didn't read any instructions just did the outside went to mark for a mortise. My thinking was internal meant for a mortise because you are inside it. Imagine my surprise when I had the outside all done, took it off the worm screw flipped it around and whoops internal means for a tenon grasped inside the jaws. Because the jaws definitely didn't fit in the mortise I made. Old chuck to the rescue!

a little confused here, but finally figured maybe you meant the speed sizer with "internal" and "external" dimensions? I'd have been thinking like you in that case - Internal WOULD be the size of a mortise I'd think , which would be a larger diameter than an "External" tenon - Perhaps whoever made the speed sizer shoulda thought through their printing job on it...

 

[John Hicks]

Did you think of using a spacer?

 

[Sam Fleisher]

If I would have used a spacer the set screws of the chuck would have ended up on the spindle threads. That shoulder was just a shade too big. less than ten minutes with a file including re-polishing to make it look pretty and it fits.

And I didn't have to do anything to the chuck which might have voided the warranty if I ever needed it.

Also, the spacer might not have fit over the shoulder either. I don't know the tolerances as far as the inside diameter of one.

 

[Tom Lucas]

I had the same issue with a Vicmarc VM120 chuck on my G0766. The Nova SN2's fit fine but the Vic would not. About 30 seconds running slow with a file on that should and all is well now. Not a big deal at all.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I took about ten mintutes because I was in uncharted waters but it ended up well.

I've found I need to get smaller jaws with the 114 now. On a smaller dog dish/candy dish a mortise is almost too big with the c jaws.

 

[Michael Anderson]

I need to get smaller jaws with the 114 now. On a smaller dog dish/candy dish a mortise is almost too big

You could use a tenon instead. That will let you go at least 1/2” small than what you would need for a mortise. Unless you’re making REALLY small dishes, I don’t think you need smaller jaws than the type C.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

For one this size I'd like just a smaller mortise. It depends on what I'm making but I like a mortise just to be able to flip it around turn the inside and be done. I need more jam chucks before I start messing with taking tenons off. I usually don't try and hide how the bowl is made by making it completely flat on the bottom.

 

[Michael Anderson]

Fair enough. Looks like a nice bowl!

 

[Sam Fleisher]

That one was dried wood I had laying around.

This one is green. I have a beaver problem but they are providing me with practice wood. I keep watching a you tube vid of rescue beavers. My thought is I wonder if they would rescue mine before I get a hold of them.

Working on my technique of making one of these without sanding it. Just tool.

I no longer make bowls. I'm going to tell people I make candy dishes.