Another finishing question...

[Ziffy]

I love turning... I get more pleasure out of taking a piece of wood and 'discovering' what treasure is hiding inside. One of my greatest frustrations however, - besides sharpening - is finishing. There are so many finishing products and processes out there, and I have no idea which will produce the best result. I tend to stick with the easiest; a friction polish. I guess my question is do you'all do most of your finishing on or off the lathe, and what is your typical finishing product, and process.

Thanks in advnace, and everyone have a great holiday!

Ziffy

 

[Jake Debski]

.......................... I tend to stick with the easiest; a friction polish. I guess my question is do you'all do most of your finishing on or off the lathe, and what is your typical finishing product, and process.

Thanks in advnace, and everyone have a great holiday!

Ziffy

All of the above. Experience will dictate different finishes for different woods. I'm sure you will get all sorts of advice from this forum most or all of it usable and valuable . But my best advice to you is to experiment. Beg, borrow, or buy small amounts of finishes and use them on your turnings. When I started I turned dozens of bottle stoppers, few of which were of the same wood nor finished with the same product. Five years later I'm still experimenting and asking questions. Never, close your mind to trying something different because you are comfortable with a specific product.

 

[Al Neighbors]

I've done like Jake... experimented and tried just about everything, and it depends on what I'm making. I tend to stick with Danish oil and buffing a week after the final coat, for bowls, because it really makes the grain pop and it polymerizes.
I use mostly a Lacquer Wash (25% Lacquer/75% Thinner - 3 or 4 four coats, each wiped dry on the lathe) and next-day buffing hollow forms, lidded boxes and vases.
I do some finishing on Old Griz (and old Grizzly lathe), but for the bowls, I have to put the final coats of Danish by hand, because I don't have a vacuum chuck, and the bottom is finished.
When I make a wooden handle for a tool, I finish it with Lemon Oil, because it doesn't polymerize, and keeps the shrinkage of the handle to a minimum. An additional coat every once in a while just adds to the beauty of the wood.
When I make stillettos (large needle with handle) for my wife and her quilting friends, I dip the handle in 100% Lacquer and hang it upside down, and wipe the drop at the handle end in about 5 minutes.

 

[Jake Debski]

...........................................................................
.........When I make a wooden handle for a tool, I finish it with Lemon Oil, because it doesn't polymerize, and keeps the shrinkage of the handle to a minimum. An additional coat every once in a while just adds to the beauty of the wood.
When I make stillettos (large needle with handle) for my wife and her quilting friends, I dip the handle in 100% Lacquer and hang it upside down, and wipe the drop at the handle end in about 5 minutes.

Al,

Can't speak for Ziffy, but thank you for a couple of new things to try.

 

[Jack Savona]

Tried to send you a PM, but your address bounced back.

You'll find everything you ever wanted to know about finishing here: http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ3.shtml

Jack

 

[Bob Chapman]

finishing

Hi Ziffy,

Everyone has their own favourites when it comes to finishing, so you 'pays your money and takes your pick'. In my case I sand down to the finest paper I have (usually around 1000 grit wet & dry, used dry), then seal with melamine lacquer diluted with an equal volume of cellulose thinners. I de-nib this with 0000 grade steel wool and then use a stick of beeswax immediately followed by carnauba wax. I use a soft cloth (don't wrap it round your fingers) to apply enough friction to melt and blend the two together and remove any excess wax. Then continue buffing with a clean part of the cloth. This gives a rich finish which seems to penetrate the wood rather than sitting on the surface.

I've used oil finishes but am too impatient to keep waiting for the coats to dry. In general I'll take forever over final fine cuts, sanding etc, but when it comes to polishing I want it finished and I want it NOW!

Bob

 

[cypher]

Ziffy,
When I began turning I hated this question and I also stuck with friction polish. As my piece got larger, friction polish was harder to get consistent. I tried many things and eventually watched a Kurt Theobald video where i saw a finish I liked. I then called and asked him what he used. Below is what he told me and what I use on most of my pieces with great success. All done on the lathe.

Finish Instructions
Per: Curt Theobald

• Min Wax wipe-on polyurethane (I use gloss)
• Warm poly in sunny window or near shop heater to make it thinner
• Apply one coat of poly on the lathe with soft rag (t shirt material works good)
o Spin (very very slow) for 10-15 min to ensure even coat.
o Let stand for one day (remove from lathe if you can and place in dust free area, try not to touch it. I move mine chuck/faceplate and all)
• after one day, Sand with 1200 grit auto sandpaper (on lathe, low speed)
• Repeat process for 3 to 4 coats (some i use 3, some i use 4, depends on wood)
o Let finished piece stand for 3 days
• Use old cutup blue jeans to polish after three days.
o Lower speed to ensure no brandishing
o Jeans have different buffing ability on the inside and the out side.


Min Wax will not work on oily woods like cocobolo. Alternately use Water Lox and the same process.

Warning – wet Water Lox rags can spontaneously combust. Be sure to hang wet rags in well ventilated area until dry.