Advice on 220V circuit for new lathe?

[Dale Bright]

I will be putting my new lathe (Jet 1642 2HP) together tomorrow and an electrican friend and I will be running a 220V 50amp subpanel to my garage. The documentation that came with the lathe does not give a specicfic amperage for the circuit but shows a picture of a 15amp plug. The specs on the motor seem to indicate a 15amp circuit will be enough.

Can someone who has this lathe please advise me on the circuit specs?

I know, no pics, it didn't happen. I will take some pics tomorrow. We are moving into a new house with a very over sized garage and I got the new lathe and a Delta 50-760 1.5 hp dust collector. I have had my Rikon mini in our basement with just a shop vac for DC and the dust has been problematic.

Thanks in advance

 

[Lars Stole]

Plenty of power

Generally speaking, a reasonably efficient, continuous-duty motor will run fine on about 5-6 amps (220) per HP -- double that for 110v. 15 amps should be fine. I have a 2.2HP Nova DVR and a 1 amp Gast pump on the same 15 amp circuit and have never had a hiccup.

 

[Rob Wallace]

15 A should be OK with the Jet 1642-2 HP...

I will be putting my new lathe (Jet 1642 2HP) together tomorrow and an electrican friend and I will be running a 220V 50amp subpanel to my garage. The documentation that came with the lathe does not give a specicfic amperage for the circuit but shows a picture of a 15amp plug. The specs on the motor seem to indicate a 15amp circuit will be enough.

Can someone who has this lathe please advise me on the circuit specs?

Mr Frog:

I've had the Jet 1642-2HP for the past few years (....and love it!) and I ran a 15 amp 220 line from my shop's 60 Amp sub-panel (I used #10 in case I ever needed to upgrade the current capacity on this circuit). The 15 A circuit should be more than adequate for the needs of the 2HP lathe.

I actually added a magnetic starter switch (220V version) ahead of the motor so I can kill the lathe power completely without having to unplug it each time between turning sessions. Otherwise there is current going to the motor controller, and the digital lathe speed circuitry is energized whenever the lathe is plugged-in. You may want to consider adding a separate switch of some kind, particularly if you have lightning strikes in the area, or power surges of any significance. I think I got my starter switch from Woodworkers Supply (ABQ, New Mexico) and just mounted it onto the lathe leg with a piece of aluminum angle and a few machine screws in tapped holes in the cast iron leg.

Don't forget that the lathe does not come with the required "cap" (="plug") installed.... you'll have to supply your own part for the plug-in portion of the electrical cord - you may also want to consider getting a twist-lock outlet/cap combination. Remember to get these parts, especially the plug, when you go shopping for the electrical parts you're using (...DAMHIKT!)

From the Central-Iowa Division of the "Been there - done that" Department.

You will enjoy your new lathe!

Cheers,

Rob Wallace

 

[MichaelMouse]

The breaker protects the wires. Your motor will draw "up to" a certain rating, which should be printed on the motor. It will draw more briefly on startup.

Match your breaker to the wire gage and the wire gage to 100% rated load and all will be fine. Think code is 75, but copper is cheaper than fire insurance, so I go 100.

Your JET is probably rated at 10-12 amp @ 240

 

[Dale Bright]

Thanks for all of the great advice. Off to the new house to put the lathe together and do some wiring.

 

[waltben]

Same thing

Generally speaking, a reasonably efficient, continuous-duty motor will run fine on about 5-6 amps (220) per HP -- double that for 110v. 15 amps should be fine. I have a 2.2HP Nova DVR and a 1 amp Gast pump on the same 15 amp circuit and have never had a hiccup.

I've had my 2hp Stubby and Gast pump on the same circuit for over four years without any problems at all.