Anyone know where a L shaped chuck key for a Stronghold chuck can be purchased?
Better get it from ONEWAY if you need a new key. They may know of L shaped keysAnyone know where a L shaped chuck key for a Stronghold chuck can be purchased?
I have a talon chuck and a stronghold chuck bought at least ten years apart, both keys fit each other.Better get it from ONEWAY if you need a new key. They may know of L shaped keys
CAUTION
STRONG HOLD KEY is oneway’s one failure in precision. We have 3 strong hold chucks and the three keys are not interchangeable. One key won’t even pass through the hole in another chuck.
All keys have slightly different teeth. So it is likely the scrolls are threaded slightly differently as well.
I’m not aware of L shaped keys but would likely have the same issue
All my chucks were bought before 2000.I have a talon chuck and a stronghold chuck bought at least ten years apart, both keys fit each other.
I have two Stronghold chucks. One is about ten years older than the other. The ring gears and pinions (key) are the same. I also have five or six Talon chucks. The pinion keys can be used in any of them.Better get it from ONEWAY if you need a new key. They may know of L shaped keys
CAUTION
STRONG HOLD KEY is oneway’s one failure in precision. We have 3 strong hold chucks and the three keys are not interchangeable. One key won’t even pass through the hole in another chuck.c
All keys have slightly different teeth. So it is likely the scrolls are threaded slightly differently as well.
I’m not aware of L shaped keys but would likely have the same issue
My first Oneway Stronghold chuck was purchased when I got my Woodfast lathe in 1992. The chuck key for this one doesn't fit the three subsequent Stronghold chucks I purchased later on.....all after 2000, I believe. The later three all have the same chuck key.It appears that the compatibility problem with the ring and pinion gear teeth was fixed before I started turning twenty years ago (2004).
Why do you want an L-shaped chuck key ... more leverage? If so, why don't you just slide the rod to either end? You can epoxy or tack weld in place if you think that is necessary.Anyone know where a L shaped chuck key for a Stronghold chuck can be purchased?
So I can mount bowls with a mortise on the inside. Unless the bowl is shallow a L shaped key is needed to tighten the chuck.Why do you want an L-shaped chuck key ... more leverage? If so, why don't you just slide the rod to either end? You can epoxy or tack weld in place if you think that is necessary.
Please don’t tell anyone, but
Steve, if I had to do this, I would get a chuck ket from Oneway and cut the gear end off, then weld the bar on top of the gear end at right angle, you will not need much room to insert and remove the head.So I can mount bowls with a mortise on the inside. Unless the bowl is shallow a L shaped key is needed to tighten the chuck.
I currently do this with my square key chucks using a ratchet wrench.
Good idea Leo. Hate to cut up a chuck key but looking like that is the only way.Steve, if I had to do this, I would get a chuck ket from Oneway and cut the gear end off, then weld the bar on top of the gear end at right angle, you will not need much room to insert and remove the head.
Of course you could do it another way, leave a stub from the chuck key (not weld the head on) sticking up above the chuck body, file the stub to a hex shape, then you can use a flat ratchet wrench to tighten or loosen the chuck (faster than the other way)
Good luck )
Most buy the Nova chucks because they are CHEAPER , and that is fine, I bought the Oneway chucks for the much higher quality, and I still would do that, I know what I got and would certainly not trade them for Nova chucksThat's why I chose Nova chucks. I have multiple keys, but I can get another (socket, L shape, or T handle) at any hardware or auto parts store.
I guess I just don't understand why you would need to do that. I've never done that. I'm sure there are other work methods that would accomplish the same without the extra steps. If you have a center mark you can always true up your tenon - or even a recess, if you grind (or buy) a tool to do that. I think several people have posted photos of a tool they made just for that purpose.So I can mount bowls with a mortise on the inside. Unless the bowl is shallow a L shaped key is needed to tighten the chuck.
I currently do this with my square key chucks using a ratchet wrench.
Anyone know where a L shaped chuck key for a Stronghold chuck can be purchased?
My motivation for the L handle modification came when I got hired to do 275 rosettes.
Below - the first 50 and 225 to go.
Uh-oh, I think my dog was reading over my shoulder, but he doesn't talk much and he lost his internet privileges last week.Hear that, folks? It's a secret so be sure to keep it under your hat.
Steve, if I had to do this, I would get a chuck ket from Oneway and cut the gear end off, then weld the bar on top of the gear end at right angle, you will not need much room to insert and remove the head.
Of course you could do it another way, leave a stub from the chuck key (not weld the head on) sticking up above the chuck body, file the stub to a hex shape, then you can use a flat ratchet wrench to tighten or loosen the chuck (faster than the other way)
Good luck )
Uh-oh, I think my dog was reading over my shoulder, but he doesn't talk much and he lost his internet privileges last week.
Bill we have a similar problem, we can be watching something on TV when the channel will change, we have extricate the remote from under the cat.My cat's Internet privileges are potentially on shaky ground. I've warned him about flopping down on the keyboard when I am approving new forum members. I can't prove it's his fault, but some forum members were banned. The cat claims it's Emiliano's fault. I'm not sure who to believe.
I had this same thought last night - went out to the shop to make sure I still had a few spare keys for the strongholds I’d squirreled away over the years. Later today I’ll sacrifice one to see how it works…you could do it another way, leave a stub from the chuck key (not weld the head on) sticking up above the chuck body, file the stub to a hex shape, then you can use a flat ratchet wrench to tighten or loosen the chuck
Thanks for the kind words.@Bob Vaughan I’m envious of your well-organized chucks, jaws, centers, etc… Something to aspire to.
That's why I chose Nova chucks. I have multiple keys, but I can get another (socket, L shape, or T handle) at any hardware or auto parts store.
Most buy the Nova chucks because they are CHEAPER , and that is fine, I bought the Oneway chucks for the much higher quality, and I still would do that, I know what I got and would certainly not trade them for Nova chucks
My process when I am coring once turned bowls is to take a core, put a mortise on the next core, take a core, etc.I guess I just don't understand why you would need to do that. I've never done that. I'm sure there are other work methods that would accomplish the same without the extra steps. If you have a center mark you can always true up your tenon - or even a recess, if you grind (or buy) a tool to do that. I think several people have posted photos of a tool they made just for that purpose.
There are several high end chucks that use a hex key in the surface of the chuck's outer perimeter, ...
So I continued with the 3 jaw metal chuck and faceplates to hold my turning pieces, it did limit my choices and shapes. feet etc. but I turned lots of wood, bowls for everyone in the families, scoops and some boxes and coasters candle holders etc.
The 4 jaw chuck I wanted was a precision chuck with the so called soft jaws, they are removable and shaped to special shaped, the cup chucks I had never seen, they just did not get used in the metal working world, though I know now that they can work well with spindle turning, hard on bearings with the wood pounded into them, even with spindle blockingLeo
I still have some of those three and four jaw machinists chucks... they sure could knock a lot of skin off your knuckles before you could say ouch or words to that effect! I still have a couple of those that I put to other uses nowadays.
Those are cup chucks.(drifting this thread a little further) What did you use those cup type attachments for? They look interesting.
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Thanks for the additional images and how-to. I may have to copy that. I definitely agree with being tired of digging through drawers, piles, etc… This might also help me with putting something down and instantly forgetting its location.Here's a couple of shots of the rack.
And here I thought I was the only turner that did that!… This might also help me with putting something down and instantly forgetting its location.