Embedded Objects

[Rick Urban]

I have a horror story about embedded objects in a magnolia I harvested from a fence row in an old community, but I'll leave that for another time and open this with the short version.

When cutting a log, if you don't use a metal detector first, at least be alert for ebonizing. Ebonizing is what happens when ferrous metal reacts with the tannin in the log, mainly in the heartwood. It turns the wood black, or at least dark, in many, but not all, species.

You can do this on purpose by putting some steel wool in some vinegar, let it soak for a little while or longer, and painting it on some wood. The affect on white oak is dramatic.

Once you start turning a blank continue being alert for the discoloration, because some objects can become totally engulfed over time (picture). In addition, be alert for changes in sound as you cut. A "tick, tick, tick" as you turn should be investigated.

 

[hughie]

In the effort to avoid this I am very selective where I get my wood from, trees from the backyard I tend to walk away from. It would have to be something special for to take it on.

 

[Dave Landers]

In the effort to avoid this I am very selective where I get my wood from, trees from the backyard I tend to walk away from. It would have to be something special for to take it on.

I am not so selective, however you make a good point that you should know (or try to find out) where your wood comes from.
Backyard trees may have held tree houses, bird houses, or other ornaments - leaving behind nails and screws. Farm or other urban trees might have held up wire fences. I got a tree from an old home site that had remnants of electrical wiring and insulators...
It's not a sure thing, but knowing the environment where the tree lived may give you a clue when to be extra cautious.

 

[robo hippy]

I had one adventure with a 'barnyard' tree. Never more!!!!!

robo hippy

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

This pecan was gigantic and in the small amount I turned (28 offering plates) there were at least 6 nails . Most of these were cut by chainsaw. Also had one bullet which was no problem as it was lead.

 

[Gary Beasley]

If the nail part is perpendicular to the surface a plug cutter will likely get the nail out with the least surrounding damage. Depends on how much nail is still in the wood. Afterwards cut another plug to fill the hole.

 

[Dean Center]

If the nail part is perpendicular to the surface a plug cutter will likely get the nail out with the least surrounding damage. Depends on how much nail is still in the wood. Afterwards cut another plug to fill the hole.

They can be challenging to get out. They deteriorate with moisture and time, so they're often soft, even friable, when you find them. A pair of vise grips works well, if you can get the nose of the pliers onto the metal. I have a pair of long-nosed vise grips just for this job. For those times when it would be necessary to dig into wood you want to keep to get the nose on the metal, a screw extractor, the type that takes out a core as Gary describes, might be just the ticket.

 

[robo hippy]

When I do find nails, I chip out around them with an old bench chisel, then use the vice grips. Some times I will slip a nail puller under the vice grips so I can leverage straight up rather than at an angle to prevent the nail from breaking.... Bullets are nice in a chunk of wood, and will help the piece sell.

robo hippy

 

[hockenbery]

I also chip around with an old chisel to lock vice grips on the tease it out.

My most memorable nail was at acclub earthday event where we had 4-5 demo laths - I hit a nail hollowing 14” cherry bowl.
This time the vice grips pulled out half a nail. Shucky-darn!!!

Somehow 3 of us got into a find the nail contest. Finder buys dinner after the demos.
Each in turn takes a cut rim to bottom center with their gouge until the nail is hit.
A fun time! Amazing how many 1/16” cuts you can use to find a nail

 

[John Whitley]

It's worth noting that a wand-type metal detector can be an inexpensive addition to your shop. I ended up picking one up from a surplus store, and you can find them at Harbor Freight and the like. Test it out on something you know has embedded metal – perhaps find some brads or drywall screws in/around your shop. Even the cheap ones often have simple calibration procedures. Check the instructions in case the detector isn't setup right from the factory, then retest.

The wand detectors have a very broad area of detection, which is desirable for scanning questionable lumber thoroughly. For pinpoint location, a Zircon Metalliscanner m40 works great, and is a boon to finding studs in some challenging wall situations as a bonus. ;-)

 

[Alan Weinberg]

A pair of vise grips works well, if you can get the nose of the pliers onto the metal.

I’ve used a drill to cut the wood around the metal till I could grip it with a Vise-Grip.