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110 Volt vs. 220 Volt Lathe

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I am considering buying a new lathe that comes with the option of either a 110 volt motor or a 220 volt motor. The price is almost the same and my shop is wired for 220 volts. Which motor should I choose and what are the advantages or disadvantages?

thanks - Ted
 

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I am considering buying a new lathe that comes with the option of either a 110 volt motor or a 220 volt motor. The price is almost the same and my shop is wired for 220 volts. Which motor should I choose and what are the advantages or disadvantages? thanks - Ted

Big advantage of the 110 is that it will work where theory don't have 220.
If you plan on using this lathe for demos at craft shows, fairs etc the 110 will be an advantage.
If it is to be stationary 220 is usually the better option for most motors.

Al
 
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I am considering buying a new lathe that comes with the option of either a 110 volt motor or a 220 volt motor. The price is almost the same and my shop is wired for 220 volts. Which motor should I choose and what are the advantages or disadvantages?

thanks - Ted

Size makes a difference.

While it's said that an electric motor doesn't "know" the difference between 110 and 220, your electric service will. A motor running on 220 pulls half the amperage than on 110. Thus, if you want to use a 1hp motor, it will pull about 12 amps on a 110 circuit. If, however, you want a 2hp motor on your lathe running on 110, you'll have to supply 24 amps or more on the circuit which means a new breaker and heavier wire since pulling 24+ amps on a 12ga. wire can be done, but you're asking for trouble, a possible fire, and complaints from family members when the lights blink every time you turn on the lathe. :D

As you haven't shared which machine you're looking at it would help to know since different speed control systems prefer or require higher voltages.
 
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Size makes a difference.

While it's said that an electric motor doesn't "know" the difference between 110 and 220, your electric service will. A motor running on 220 pulls half the amperage than on 110. Thus, if you want to use a 1hp motor, it will pull about 12 amps on a 110 circuit. If, however, you want a 2hp motor on your lathe running on 110, you'll have to supply 24 amps or more on the circuit which means a new breaker and heavier wire since pulling 24+ amps on a 12ga. wire can be done, but you're asking for trouble, a possible fire, and complaints from family members when the lights blink every time you turn on the lathe. :D

As you haven't shared which machine you're looking at it would help to know since different speed control systems prefer or require higher voltages.

The lathe I am looking at is the Oneway 1224. It comes with a 1hp motor with a 15 amp plug.
 
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As Terry said above, the 220v will pull half the current for the same HP motor. That means less loss in the wiring and more torque. If you're wired for 220, then that would be your best choice in my opinion.
 
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The lathe I am looking at is the Oneway 1224. It comes with a 1hp motor with a 15 amp plug.

That'll run just fine on a 15-20 amp 110v (115-120v in places) circuit. You can, of course, ask Oneway if they recommend one voltage or the other. It also can make a difference when you have other items on the same circuit that are drawing amps at the same time. If your lathe will be on a dedicated circuit meaning the full circuit capacity is available for the lathe, you'll have no issues with the lower voltage unless, again, you need to reduce the amperage draw to prevent interfering with the amperage available to other circuits.
 

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I am considering buying a new lathe that comes with the option of either a 110 volt motor or a 220 volt motor. The price is almost the same and my shop is wired for 220 volts. Which motor should I choose and what are the advantages or disadvantages?

thanks - Ted

The motor might be the same for both models unless there is a stated difference in horsepower or if the lathe has an inverter (AKA variable frequency drive). It would be helpful to know what particular lathe you are considering. That way, we might be aware of some particular reason for choosing one model over another. Does your shop have both 120 and 240 volts available?

If the horsepower is the same and it is not variable speed, then it is possible that the same motor is being used in both models. It is common to find that motors in the 3/4 to 1 1/2 horsepower range are dual voltage. The term dual voltage means that the motor has two sets of 120 volt windings for the purpose of being configured for either service -- parallel for connection to a 120 volt service or series for connection to a 240 volt service. Internally, as far as the motor is concerned, there is no difference since the current through each winding is the same. Externally, as viewed from the electrical service panel, there is the difference in the required minimum branch circuit breaker sizing that Mark pointed out. As Al pointed out, being able to connect to 120 volts is an advantage if you will be using the lathe in different locations. The only advantage of operating from 240 volts would be the convenience of taking advantage of an existing 240 volt outlet if 120 volts isn't conveniently located close to where you plan to locate the lathe. That's not much of an advantage, but I wanted to emphasize that as far as the motor is concerned, there is no advantage of wiring the motor for one voltage over the other.
 

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As Terry said above, the 220v will pull half the current for the same HP motor. That means less loss in the wiring and more torque. If you're wired for 220, then that would be your best choice in my opinion.

The difference in wiring loss is trivial unless the building wiring is intrinsically lacking (if it dates back to pre WWII). As far as the motor itself -- there is absolutely zero difference in torque or in power. That idea is one of those internet myths that has taken root and will be persistent forever even though it is incorrect. Residential wiring voltages are 240/120. Motors are rated at 230/115, but will meet nameplate power even under lower voltage conditions. Residential voltage was 110 volts in the 1930's, but by the but by the 1950's, 120 was the standard. By the 1960's it was typical to have 240/120 residential service. However, older terminology isn't going to go down without a fight. There is no technical reason to wire the motor for 240 volts. However, warm fuzzies count for some intangible benefits that may triumph over technical reasons.
 

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Perhaps the attached article from Popular Woodworking, November 2003, will help you sort it out. - John

I've seen the article before and it ought to be an embarrassment to Popular Woodworking. The article starts out describing the basics correctly, but most of their statements regarding motors operating on 240 volts vs 120 volts painfully shows the poor understanding of the subject. I had to cringe at the bludgeoning of science while simultaneously feeling pain for the author flaunting his misunderstanding. Their selection of an expert is unfortunate. Based on personal experience, I would be hesitant to consult an electrician for expertise on the underlying science. Their expertise lies in understanding and interpreting the regulatory requirements and in the industry best practices for designing and implementing electrical installations.
 
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The lathe I am looking at is the Oneway 1224. It comes with a 1hp motor with a 15 amp plug.

My guess is that the inverter providing the variable frequency 3 phase for the motor can be wired for either a 110 input, or a 220 input. It could be that depending on the choice of input voltage a different inverter would be used. Call Oneway and ask if the inverter input voltage can be changed by the user after the lathe is delivered or if once an input voltage is selected a different inverter is required for an input voltage change.

Either way, the 1 hp motor wont know the difference. Pulling 1 hp with 110 volts is a moderate load for 110, going thru the inverter it might take a max of 8 or 9 amps at full load. Half that much on 220. Startup current with an inverter is not substantially higher than full load as the inverter brings the rpm's up at a reasonable rate.

I would get the 110 for the flexibility and possible resale value if a voltage change after purchase is not possible without a different inverter.
 

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The main difference here with a 120 circuit there are typically other items on the same feed. So if you have lights, a grinder and the lathe, you may be pushing the limits of the wiring assuming you are turning with the lights on and the lathe running. Turn on the grinder and you may pop the circuit if the lathe is running.
with 220, I believe it is supposed to be a dedicated circuit, so only the lathe is on there and you are less likely to pop the breaker.
 
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Dedicated Circuits

The main difference here with a 120 circuit there are typically other items on the same feed. So if you have lights, a grinder and the lathe, you may be pushing the limits of the wiring assuming you are turning with the lights on and the lathe running. Turn on the grinder and you may pop the circuit if the lathe is running.
with 220, I believe it is supposed to be a dedicated circuit, so only the lathe is on there and you are less likely to pop the breaker.

"Home Run" circuits are great if you have the room in your service panel. The only things I have on dedicated circuits are the dust collector and the big compressor and my lathe. My band saw and table saw and planer all share a single 240v circuit because I never have two of them running at the same time. The big compressor needs its own 240 breaker since it's in the unheated garage and would blow a 20amp breaker starting up in winter. The DC, of course, runs whenever one of the 240 wired tools are running. When I moved the lathe out to the garage, I had to use the last three bays in my sub-panel for its 240 primary and a 20amp GFCI circuit for other garage power tools like drills and sanders and grinders. So far so good, but if I need more juice I have to call my sparky and deal for MORE POWER for the electric company.
 
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Bill Boehme

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Generally lighting and outlets are not on the same branch circuit, but that is not a guarantee.

What Steve says about 240 is true -- they are not daisy chained -- just one device per branch circuit.
 
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I was kind of wondering the same thing or at least a similar thing. I am looking at the Jet JWL-1642-2EVS which is 2HP 220 Volts and the JWL-1642-EVS which is 1.5 HP and 110 volts. I'm wondering if it is worth a couple of hundred more dollars for the 2HP model. I have room in my circuit breaker panel for a 220 circuit if I go that way.

Rich
 
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I am considering buying a new lathe that comes with the option of either a 110 volt motor or a 220 volt motor. The price is almost the same and my shop is wired for 220 volts. Which motor should I choose and what are the advantages or disadvantages?

thanks - Ted

Ted,

There have been many good points in this thread for 110 v. Remember it is the power in wattage (P = VI) that matters in any appliance. The bottom line is, you are only talking about a 1 HP motor, which draws less than 9 amp on 110 v and 4.5 amp on 220 v. If you have the 110 v version and your circuit is for 20 amp (the neutral side of the receptacle would look like a "T" if the electrician knew what he was doing), you are not even using half the load that the breaker is rated for. You can still use a grinder (usually 3/4 HP) on the same circuit although I never run my lathe and the grinder at the same time. As to lighting, you'd have to have more than 10 100 W incandescent bulbs on the same circuit before you have to worry about overloading the circuit. (I only use CFLs these days and a 40 W CFL will put out lumens equivalent to a 150 W incandescent.) Someone mentioned resale in this thread and I agree. Not everyone has a 220 v outlet where they want to put the lathe. Personally, I have been so frustrated by my 220 v Oneway 1018 because every time I want to use it for a demo somewhere else I have to request a special 220 outlet and sometimes it is just not possible. In fact, I just got in a "voltage doubler" today from Oneway so in the future I wouldn't have to worry about power source anywhere I go. (It is just a bare circuit board with diodes, capacitors etc and two pairs of pigtails. I still have to put it in a box with a plug and a receptacle. What a pain in you know where!!)

Enjoy your new Oneway 1224. It is a beautiful machine, except I would get rid of that clunky base. I built a wooden base for my 1018. It is functional as well as good looking, but I CAN move it.
 

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I was kind of wondering the same thing or at least a similar thing. I am looking at the Jet JWL-1642-2EVS which is 2HP 220 Volts and the JWL-1642-EVS which is 1.5 HP and 110 volts. I'm wondering if it is worth a couple of hundred more dollars for the 2HP model. I have room in my circuit breaker panel for a 220 circuit if I go that way.

Rich

My opinion is YES. Go for the 2 HP model. Our club has the 1.5 HP model and it ought to be better than it is, but demonstrators very frequently stall the motor.
 

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There is another facto to consider. Resale. It's easier to sell a lathe that is 110 v. Particularly in that size. If it can be easily changed from 220 back to 110 then its not a problem.
 
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My opinion is YES. Go for the 2 HP model. Our club has the 1.5 HP model and it ought to be better than it is, but demonstrators very frequently stall the motor.

Stalling the motor: Often a bit more tension and a bit of belt dressing can alleviate much of that problem.

On the other hand, I don't keep my lathe as "tight" as possible for safety reasons. I can't stall a 3hp motor running on a VFD, but I can stall the spindle in the event of a catch or something else going wrong. When I really need all the power (as in roughing some honker of a log with a 1" Glazer), it's easy to add more tension on the poly-v.
 
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My opinion is YES. Go for the 2 HP model. Our club has the 1.5 HP model and it ought to be better than it is, but demonstrators very frequently stall the motor.

I agree with Bill. Having demoed on a 1.5 110 1642 I found it to be a good machine but there were two things that were a bit of a detractor. The banjo is a bit short for doing max diameter pieces, and the 1.5 hp came up a bit short for larger pieces. It was fairly easy to slow the lathe during roughing on large pieces and if not easing up the lathe could have been stalled. I will admit to guilty on the charge of heavy handed while roughing though.
 
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Ted,
When buying a Onewsy 1224 get the 110 motor. I have two of them with 110 and have no problems, they are great lathes. I demo at a college that has a Oneway 1018 and a Oneway 1224, both with 220 motors, what a PAIN if they need to be moved to a different room.
Jack
 
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I agree with Bill. Having demoed on a 1.5 110 1642 I found it to be a good machine but there were two things that were a bit of a detractor. The banjo is a bit short for doing max diameter pieces, and the 1.5 hp came up a bit short for larger pieces. It was fairly easy to slow the lathe during roughing on large pieces and if not easing up the lathe could have been stalled. I will admit to guilty on the charge of heavy handed while roughing though.

What do you do about the banjo. Is there a replacement or is there another lathe for around the same price that doesn't have this problem.

Rich
 
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What do you do about the banjo. Is there a replacement or is there another lathe for around the same price that doesn't have this problem.

Rich

The banjo is not unworkable, just would be handier if it were a couple inches longer. The length of the banjo is fine for bowls 12" or 13" dia. It is a bit short for working on the backside of blanks much larger.

Oneway sells replacment banjos that would probably work with the correct clamp block, but you would need to check with Oneway to be sure.

I don't have experience with the alternatives in the 1642 size/price range.
 

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Stalling the motor: Often a bit more tension and a bit of belt dressing can alleviate much of that problem......

Those two things would be ways to address spindle stalling while the motor is still turning -- in other words, squealing the belt.

Poly V belts should not need much tension. If there is slipping or if the belt is squealing, then it it is time to inspect the belt for wear or glazing. I'm not a fan of belt dressing. It goobers up the rubber and masks other problems which usually turns out to be a worn out belt.

A poly V belt is the same as a simple belt in many respects -- they run on the sidewalls and are worn out when they "bottom out". They can glaze from slipping, wear too fast if the pulleys are not in perfect alignment, and get hard from ozone cracking. Ozone cracking can be checked by tightly bending the belt backwards and looking for tiny transverse cracks.

Motor stalling on a variable speed drive could be caused by several things, but in the case of the Jet, I would want to check the programmed settings of the VFD because it seems all too easy to either bog down the motor or even bring it to a full stall. Of course, that behavior could be the result of the pulley ratio, motor characteristics, or even a component failure. At our last meeting, there was an obvious problem where it almost seemed that the spindle was loose in the headstock.
 

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Just to clarify for those who may be confused by the '220 volts pulls half the amperage as 110".
This doesn't mean power consumption is less, or that cost of running is less.
It simply means that the power is provided by two hot circuits instead of one, each supplying half of the required amperage. So Mark is correct when saying a higher amperage load on a single hot wire would require much thicker wire than the same amperage spread across two circuits.

Also, it really should be stated as 120 volt vs 240 volts.... It's been many years since 110 and 220 were provided by utilities.

Size makes a difference.

While it's said that an electric motor doesn't "know" the difference between 110 and 220, your electric service will. A motor running on 220 pulls half the amperage than on 110. Thus, if you want to use a 1hp motor, it will pull about 12 amps on a 110 circuit. If, however, you want a 2hp motor on your lathe running on 110, you'll have to supply 24 amps or more on the circuit which means a new breaker and heavier wire since pulling 24+ amps on a 12ga. wire can be done, but you're asking for trouble, a possible fire, and complaints from family members when the lights blink every time you turn on the lathe. :D

As you haven't shared which machine you're looking at it would help to know since different speed control systems prefer or require higher voltages.
 
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When I first set up my wood shop some 20 years ago, first, I bought a bunch of books to help me figure out what I needed. Every single book, when talking about motors said that any of them, 1 hp and above ran better on 220 current. I think most 1 hp motors can run fine on 110, but for 1.5 hp, it will run far better with the 220. I have turned on the Jet 1642 with the 1.5 hp motor, and 110 volt. It is rather weak. It is not an issue of tighter belt or higher rpm, it just doesn't have much power. Now, if you are not concerned about time, and you won't be turning many bowls, then the 110 volt model will work fine. If you are going to get into bowls, you need the extra power.

robo hippy
 

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.... I think most 1 hp motors can run fine on 110, but for 1.5 hp, it will run far better with the 220....

Reed, I don't doubt your observations, just your interpretation of them.

Just to clarify for those who may be confused ....

Alan, bro, thank you for your never ending battle for truth, justice, and the American way. I'm beginning to think that if we haven't managed to effectively explain things to smart guys like Reed then we're doing something wrong.
 
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I had one belt sander that had a 1 hp motor, and my jointer and drum sander both had 1.5 hp motors. I had them rewired to 220 volt. I didn't notice a lot of improvement on the belt sander, but big improvement on the other two tools. It could have been the power of suggestion, and I haven't turned on the Jet with the 220 volt motor, or the DVR with a 220 volt motor, so can't compare them with actual experience. I do know there is a huge difference in the actual motors, kind of like the difference in the 3/4 hp motor on my old Woodcraft blue no name grinder and my Baldor 3/4 hp grinder. The power difference is comparable to the weight difference, which is almost 2 to 1 in favor of the Baldor.

So Bill, what about my interpretation doesn't make sense. No offence taken at all, just curious.....

robo hippy
 
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I had one belt sander that had a 1 hp motor, and my jointer and drum sander both had 1.5 hp motors. I had them rewired to 220 volt. I didn't notice a lot of improvement on the belt sander, but big improvement on the other two tools. It could have been the power of suggestion, and I haven't turned on the Jet with the 220 volt motor, or the DVR with a 220 volt motor, so can't compare them with actual experience. I do know there is a huge difference in the actual motors, kind of like the difference in the 3/4 hp motor on my old Woodcraft blue no name grinder and my Baldor 3/4 hp grinder. The power difference is comparable to the weight difference, which is almost 2 to 1 in favor of the Baldor.

So Bill, what about my interpretation doesn't make sense. No offence taken at all, just curious.....

robo hippy


Most dual voltage motors will start quicker on the higher voltage. There will also be less voltage drop that can make a difference on long circuits. So I would agree with your observation that there is an improvement (in getting up to speed).
 
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Bill Boehme

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.... I think most 1 hp motors can run fine on 110, but for 1.5 hp, it will run far better with the 220. I have turned on the Jet 1642 with the 1.5 hp motor, and 110 volt. It is rather weak. It is not an issue of tighter belt or higher rpm, it just doesn't have much power.

This is comparing apples and oranges. The Jet 240 volt 1642 is 2 HP. Besides when you toss a VFD into the mix it becomes impossible to make a subjective comparison of motors because what you see is mainly how the VFD is designed to control the motor. I certainly support your observation that the 1.5 HP Jet is a 90 pound weakling, but it isn't because of the voltage. The VFD that Jet has used might not be the bottom of the heap, but it certainly isn't far from the bottom with respect to performance capability. When it comes to VFD performance, the operating voltage certainly does matter, but that is the VFD and not the motor.

I had one belt sander that had a 1 hp motor, and my jointer and drum sander both had 1.5 hp motors. I had them rewired to 220 volt. I didn't notice a lot of improvement on the belt sander, but big improvement on the other two tools. It could have been the power of suggestion, and I haven't turned on the Jet with the 220 volt motor, or the DVR with a 220 volt motor, so can't compare them with actual experience. I do know there is a huge difference in the actual motors, kind of like the difference in the 3/4 hp motor on my old Woodcraft blue no name grinder and my Baldor 3/4 hp grinder. The power difference is comparable to the weight difference, which is almost 2 to 1 in favor of the Baldor.

So Bill, what about my interpretation doesn't make sense. No offence taken at all, just curious.....

robo hippy

I didn't intend to imply that your interpretation didn't make sense, but that you conclusions based on your experience was incorrect. It might well appear logical to a reasonable person, but there can be other factors not accounted for that are the reason for what you believe. James mentions a couple of them. Another example would be comparing a 1.5 HP motor with a VFD operating on 120 volts on one machine to another fixed speed machine with a 1.5 HP single phase induction motor operating on 240 volts and having stepped cone pulleys to control the output speed. Also, saying that a motor ran "better" after rewiring might need a "better" description of what "better" means, if you know what I mean. :rolleyes:

Also, never underestimate the power of suggestion -- it is often equivalent to one or two horsepower.

Most dual voltage motors will start quicker on the higher voltage. There will also be less voltage drop that can make a difference on long circuits. So I would agree with your observation that there is an improvement (in getting up to speed).

As James said, quicker start up is one thing that you can see on some single phase induction motors. That is because the same start winding configuration is used for either operating voltage. However, it would be worth pointing out that has nothing to do with motor performance once it is up and running. If it takes a motor 0.15 seconds to get up to speed when running on 120 volts, then it might take 0.09 seconds when running on 240 volts. Once the motor speed reaches roughly 2/3 of operating speed, the centrifugal switch kicks the start winding and start capacitor out of the circuit until the next time that the motor is started from a full stop. So, the faster startup is only good for warm fuzzies. It can't do anything to improve power output from the motor.

James mentioned voltage drop on long wiring runs, but really that is a red herring except in rare instances (it's rare if it happens to other people, but not to you. :rolleyes: ). Most woodturners worry that their situation is one of those rare instances. I suppose that we all need to have something to worry about, but I like to worry about bigger things like whether the universe will continue expanding or will reverse and collapse into another "Big Bang". I would like to stick around to find out which way things go. I worry that I won't be able to hang on that long or might be senile if I do. If wiring is done to code then long wiring runs don't make a meaningful difference. Besides that AC induction motors are very tolerant of voltage variations. In most situations, the voltage can sag to about 105 volts per phase before motors start overheating from over current conditions.

Something else to consider especially with lathes -- the nameplate full power current is not the current being drawn except when it is being loaded to its maximum capability. Most of the time the current through the motor is a fraction of the maximum. Voltage sag only happens when the branch circuit is loaded down. Anybody who is really concerned could buy a digital meter and leave it plugged into the power line at their lathe. I suspect that most of us won't see a lot of drop in voltage -- maybe 5 volts, but probably not any more than 10 volts. If you see 15 volts drop, you might consider talking to an electrician about a solution.
 
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Just to clarify for those who may be confused by the '220 volts pulls half the amperage as 110".
This doesn't mean power consumption is less, or that cost of running is less.
It simply means that the power is provided by two hot circuits instead of one, each supplying half of the required amperage. So Mark is correct when saying a higher amperage load on a single hot wire would require much thicker wire than the same amperage spread across two circuits.

Also, it really should be stated as 120 volt vs 240 volts.... It's been many years since 110 and 220 were provided by utilities.

Agreed the power consumption is the same, and operating cost is the same... a kilowatt is a kilowatt.

However two hot wires each supplying half the current? The same current flows in both hot wires. It's just a matter the motor windings are in series instead of parallel. If the motor were connected to a 240 volt circuit that had one hot and one neutral(theoretical, yes I know such a situation doesn't usually exist), it would still pull half as much current. Look at it this way... if for some reason the neutral to the breaker panel opened, the 240V stuff still works, still has 240V. Would wreck havoc with the 120V stuff , though. Bottom line there is 240V between two points to which a motor is connected, no current splitting going on!


Although you are correct of course about the 110/220 vs 120/240 thing, those aren't going to change in many peoples mind any time soon. For general purpose just a technicality... actually I see a lot of places pushing closer to 124 these days!
 
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I have the Oneway 1224 w/ 120 volts

Hi Ted,

I bought my Oneway 1224 new in 2004. At that time I did not have a 240 circuit in my turning shed. (an unheated shed!)
I checked with Oneway and was told I could change it later. In 2012 I finished my new turning shed (small heated shop). I have separate 120 circuits for: lights, 2 outlet circuits, and a spare; I have a 240 heater circuit and a 240 circuit originally for the lathe. After talking to Oneway reps at the Albuquerque NM Symposium I realized an electrician would need to change it, so I decided to not change it for now.

I wanted to change my lathe to 240 because the 1224 ALWAYS blows the GFI. In my original turning shed I used a 12 gauge extension cord to a garage circuit that at that time did not have GFI. Later I moved into the garage while the new shed was being built. The garage had been rewired, due to a quilting studio being built above it, so I used the garage door opener ceiling plug/circuit since that was the only plug/circuit without GFI available. It is code in my location to use a non-GFI single outlet circuit in a garage. The freezer got that one. Now in my shed, since I have wood floors, I do have a non-GFI outlet for the lathe. Note, my electrician pointed out that 240 is always non-GFI.

I love my 1224. It is the perfect size for what I do and I have no problems with my current 120 volt set up.

Since it weighs about 300 pounds I do not move it around without several friends coming over.
When needed, I take my Jet 1018 to demos and classes.

Ann
 

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Duane, i see it as somewhat a matter of semantics. I understood what Alan was saying even if the description might have appeared to be slightly convoluted to those who might be sticklers for details (that would be you and me and maybe a few others).

Ann, inverters (also known as, VFD's) used to be notorious for playing havoc with GFI breakers. Some still are causing Gfi problems. A line reactor might help. I'm surprised that Oneway didn't have a filter that might help.
 
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Note, my electrician pointed out that 240 is always non-GFI.

Ann, not to get side-tracked here, but your sparky's wrong. If you had a hot tub or Jaquzzi with a heater, it absolutely must be wired by home-runs to the service panel for 240 and be fed with 240 GFCI circuit breakers (one for the pump and one for the heater). OTH, he would be correct if he stated that the outlets for 240 are not GFCI. That's because 240 GFCI circuits must use GFCI breakers in the service panel to prevent only one leg of the circuit from tripping out.

[Yeah, probably more than you wanted to know :D ]
 
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Ann, not to get side-tracked here, but your sparky's wrong. If you had a hot tub or Jaquzzi with a heater, it absolutely must be wired by home-runs to the service panel for 240 and be fed with 240 GFCI circuit breakers (one for the pump and one for the heater). OTH, he would be correct if he stated that the outlets for 240 are not GFCI. That's because 240 GFCI circuits must use GFCI breakers in the service panel to prevent only one leg of the circuit from tripping out.

[Yeah, probably more than you wanted to know :D ]

If we are going to be nitpicky you're wrong too. In practice residential 240v circuits are dedicated for appliances and do not require GFCI. For hot tubs or Jacuzzis the National Electrical Code requires that an approved manual disconnect device adjacent to the hot tub, at least 5 feed away, and within sight. The service panel will have a standard breaker and the disconnect panel is typically where a 240v GFIC is located. Older hot tubs had built-in GFIC devices but that has changed in the last 10 years or so, as most areas don't allow it. OTH, you would be correct if you had stated that hot tubs or Jacuzzis have to be protected with a GFCI circuit breaker.

For most things there is almost always exceptions.
 
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If we are going to be nitpicky you're wrong too. In practice residential 240v circuits are dedicated for appliances and do not require GFCI.

Didn't mention "appliances".

For hot tubs or Jacuzzis the National Electrical Code requires that an approved manual disconnect device adjacent to the hot tub, at least 5 feed away, and within sight. The service panel will have a standard breaker and the disconnect panel is typically where a 240v GFIC is located. Older hot tubs had built-in GFIC devices but that has changed in the last 10 years or so, as most areas don't allow it.

Granted, but in my area, without a GFCI breaker in the service panel protecting the entire circuit in addition to the manual disconnect, the inspector will make you do it again. My sparky instructs only one GFCI per circuit, thus it goes in the service panel rather than the M-D box.

OTH, you would be correct if you had stated that hot tubs or Jacuzzis have to be protected with a GFCI circuit breaker.

For most things there is almost always exceptions.

Thought that's all I said. Certain 240 circuits must be "dedicated" and GFCI protected.
 

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Didn't mention "appliances".

Since everybody seems to be hell-bent for nitpicking, I will join the party. The NEC Refers to a lot of things as appliances. Those with dedicated branch circuits are called "fixed appliances". Some fixed appliances are hard wired such as ovens and ranges while others like washers and dryers have outlets. If memory serves me correctly, a Jacuzzi type bathtub is treated as a fixed appliance while a hot tub is in the same section of the code as swimming pools. I'm not sure why we're talking about hot tubs anyway seeing as this isn't a Cialis forum although we ARE talking WOOD.
 
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Bill,
Well, I think I was saying some thing similar to your points. There is a huge difference in motors, and after you mentioned it, the converters, and the converters can be programmed many different ways for both torque and rpm. I had my converter reprogrammed so it would go down to about 20 rpm so I could sand my warped bowls. Brent also changed the speed ranges, so my mid range speed (the AB had 3 pulleys back then) was up to about 2200. So, now, we need to take a bunch of lathes and figure some way to make comparable torque tests.....

The motor on my compressor is 5 hp or so, and it is 1/4 the size of the 4.5 hp Baldor motor on my Laguna 16HD bandsaw, and my routers are 3 hp.....

Like Mark Twain said, "There are 3 kinds of lies in this world. Lies, damned lies, and statistics."

robo hippy
 

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We can add another category of lies to what Mark Twain said that is even worse than statistics. In addition to compressors and routers, let's not forget shop vacs. Some claim to be 6.5 HP with a motor no larger than my fist.

NOTE: I did some time traveling from the future (October 23, 2022, to be exact) and after reading this ancient thread, I felt that it is/was/will be necessary to warn any future time travelers that nothing much has changed as far as looking to the Internet with great expectations that it was, is, or will become a source of knowledge and wisdom. One specific pearl of ignorance is the frequent reference to 120-volt circuit breakers vs. 240-volt circuit breakers. For the record, circuit breakers are rated by current rating (15, 20, 30, 40, etc. Amperes), not voltage. There are single-pole and double-pole breakers. In residential service, the double pole breakers would be used in a 240-volt branch circuit. Single pole breakers can be used independently for a 120-volt branch circuit or ganged together for a 240-volt circuit. Back to the future.
 
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Didn't mention "appliances".

Probably would have if they knew they were talking to a lawyer though. :)

Granted, but in my area, without a GFCI breaker in the service panel protecting the entire circuit in addition to the manual disconnect, the inspector will make you do it again. My sparky instructs only one GFCI per circuit, thus it goes in the service panel rather than the M-D box.

The inspector is the judge and areas can make and interpret code differently. But I find that odd as it would really make it difficult and expensive for spas that require two GFCIs. Some have a separate one for the heater.

Thought that's all I said. Certain 240 circuits must be "dedicated" and GFCI protected.

I was just pulling you chain a little. I apologize if I have offended you.
 
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