I'm contemplating building a workshop, but my concern is with heating. I know that some people use wood space heaters for heating, however isn't this asking for trouble. I would think that sawdust in the air would be dangerous. Other furnaces have pilot lights and flames that can also ignite. There's also dust that can get into the workings of the furnaces. What are some of the options to minmize these concerns?
-
Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details) -
Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Workshop heating
- Thread starter Douglas Long
- Start date
Dust collection is your friend
More important then fire danger, it keeps you healthy and your tools clean
More important then fire danger, it keeps you healthy and your tools clean
Electric, radiant heat, circulating oil heater is the way to go. This looks kinda like a radiator on wheels. It contains oil which is heated with an element and circulated through the radiator. Efficient, no flame, exposed element, or spark, fully enclosed so dust won't be a problem. Doesn't even put out any CO. Can even put it on a timer to start heating a few hours before you head to the shop.
Dietrich
Dietrich
If you're actually building the shop, you may even want to consider putting your radiant heat into the concrete pad, or on the pad under a wooden superflooring. A la This Old House rebuilds where the tubing (copper?) is run just below the standing surface. No floor space taken up, hot or cold can be run through to help with temperature regulation. Concrete becomes a heat or cold distributor and reservoir. No drying from hot air, no open flames in your shop. The oil-filled radiant heat is similar, but localized. Some say that this is very easy on the heating budget. I like my little DeLonghi radiator, but it doesn't heat a larger room very well. It takes the chill off my little computer/office space nicely. Bumps a poorly heated room up to comfortable fairly quickly.
You might consider a propane furnace. I have one with a sealed combustion chamber that draws in outside air for combustion and exhausts throught a separate duct. The heat ducting has a filtration system that stops sawdust from getting into the ducting but even if some does it does not get near the combustion chamber. I've had this system in my shop for 6 years and it works fine.
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Messages
- 231
- Likes
- 1
- Location
- Newville, PA (south of Harrisburg)
- Website
- www.torne-lignum.com
I, too, am trying to decide on a heating system for a new shop. I have a 3-car garage, closing in 2 bays, it will be 25' x 30'.
Andy, I had the wall mounted, vented, propane heaters in my last 2 shops, both of which were built inside uninsulated, in-the-winds of PA barns and the heat was ok to good with a ceiling fan. Did you look into various heating choices or just like your unit right off?
What about a ceiling mounted (hanging) propane heater with the blower?
Doug, I've been told not to go with radiant because the machines and tools will be cold. Where you live makes a big difference, too. How much sun, wind, cold and how cold, do you have any physical needs (my fingers go numb if not warm, my ankles hurt from creeping cold, etc.) all should be taken into consideration. In my last 2 shops (I move a LOT), I had a row of windows installed on the south side. Pics of my last shop are on my website ( www.torne-lignum.com ) and you can see the heater and all the windows.
Ruth
Andy, I had the wall mounted, vented, propane heaters in my last 2 shops, both of which were built inside uninsulated, in-the-winds of PA barns and the heat was ok to good with a ceiling fan. Did you look into various heating choices or just like your unit right off?
What about a ceiling mounted (hanging) propane heater with the blower?
Doug, I've been told not to go with radiant because the machines and tools will be cold. Where you live makes a big difference, too. How much sun, wind, cold and how cold, do you have any physical needs (my fingers go numb if not warm, my ankles hurt from creeping cold, etc.) all should be taken into consideration. In my last 2 shops (I move a LOT), I had a row of windows installed on the south side. Pics of my last shop are on my website ( www.torne-lignum.com ) and you can see the heater and all the windows.
Ruth
shop
Ruth-love your shop. Lots of character. How do you keep it so clean???? 😀 Gretch
Ruth-love your shop. Lots of character. How do you keep it so clean???? 😀 Gretch
I have been heating my shop with wood for nine years its free heat and I would do it no other way. I live in NewEgland there aren't many places colder. Dust collection is the key. Bob
Richard Baker
RIP
Doug,
Considering your location, the three most important needs for your shop are probably going to be insulation, insulation, and insulation. I have used small thermostat controlled heat/A/C window units in 3 different shops, all about 600 sq. ft., over the past 25 yrs. May not be adequate heat for your winters, as our coldest temp. here is only about 30F (hottest about 100F). Consider 5-1/2" insulation in the walls and twice that in the ceiling. I bet you already knew that.
Considering your location, the three most important needs for your shop are probably going to be insulation, insulation, and insulation. I have used small thermostat controlled heat/A/C window units in 3 different shops, all about 600 sq. ft., over the past 25 yrs. May not be adequate heat for your winters, as our coldest temp. here is only about 30F (hottest about 100F). Consider 5-1/2" insulation in the walls and twice that in the ceiling. I bet you already knew that.
I picked up this heater from a trailer park down the road. They were stripping an old trailer before removal and told me to help myself. Free is good! They even tried to give me the oil tank but i had plans to plumb it into the main house tank since it has oil heat also. It heats my 24x24 detached garage with 10' ceilings like a charm. I can get it to 70 in about 5 min. This one is oil burning but they had propane ones there also. some of them can be turned on there sides and be put in the attic but be sure you ask a pro before doing so. I find it very cheap to run also. Wouldn't hurt to ask around your area.
Attachments
Last edited:
Pot-bellied Stove
I have a pot-bellied antique style heater. I save all my wood scraps all summer long, in a huge box. I heat my entire shop (20X40) with this wood-burning heater, by hanging a two-speed fan up high, behind the heater. When I fire-up the heater I turn on the fan. It circulates the heat throughout.
My clean air machine hangs over the lathe, and also helps to circulate the air.
No problems with dust in the air... if it's dusty enough to explode, you couldn't be breathing it anyway.
Allen
I have a pot-bellied antique style heater. I save all my wood scraps all summer long, in a huge box. I heat my entire shop (20X40) with this wood-burning heater, by hanging a two-speed fan up high, behind the heater. When I fire-up the heater I turn on the fan. It circulates the heat throughout.
My clean air machine hangs over the lathe, and also helps to circulate the air.
No problems with dust in the air... if it's dusty enough to explode, you couldn't be breathing it anyway.
Allen
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 19
The answer is insulate. Then you have a second decision to make. Are you going to rust your machines by having them below the dewpoint after bringing your moist breath in there, or are you going to maintain some heat all the time to protect them.
If you are going to protect them by keeping a bit of warmth there all the time, you can certainly consider convective slow heat like the electric, though at what cost, I don't know. Better for drying/keeping your wood dry as well.
If you're going to keep the place cold until you're in it or about to enter, then you want something that produces a lot of heat quickly and moves it mechanically to rapidly warm you and the things in your shop. Favors combustion on site and fans to do the job. Dust won't be a big worry around a flame unless you introduce a bolus of same by dumping the bag from your collector in proximity to the ignition source. When the concentration's low, it'll burn away with no problem. You'll of course want a furnace which filters air taken from inside or uses air from outside to avoid problems with oil spray or dust on freshly lit burners. Isolation in a positive pressure "closet" would be a reasonable choice, properly vented to handle fumes when you're not there, and the pressure generated.
Since you have, as I recall, a lot of trees available out there, you might want to consider the woodstove and ceiling fans option. Perhaps, if you're rural enough, one of those outside smokies located down the prevailing wind would be the ticket. They're capable of producing and storing a lot of heat in various configurations. Wouldn't be an economical choice for the shop alone, given the need to charge them up and the delay in obtaining heat, but I don't know the prevailing cordwood prices, nor if you can harvest your own.
If you are going to protect them by keeping a bit of warmth there all the time, you can certainly consider convective slow heat like the electric, though at what cost, I don't know. Better for drying/keeping your wood dry as well.
If you're going to keep the place cold until you're in it or about to enter, then you want something that produces a lot of heat quickly and moves it mechanically to rapidly warm you and the things in your shop. Favors combustion on site and fans to do the job. Dust won't be a big worry around a flame unless you introduce a bolus of same by dumping the bag from your collector in proximity to the ignition source. When the concentration's low, it'll burn away with no problem. You'll of course want a furnace which filters air taken from inside or uses air from outside to avoid problems with oil spray or dust on freshly lit burners. Isolation in a positive pressure "closet" would be a reasonable choice, properly vented to handle fumes when you're not there, and the pressure generated.
Since you have, as I recall, a lot of trees available out there, you might want to consider the woodstove and ceiling fans option. Perhaps, if you're rural enough, one of those outside smokies located down the prevailing wind would be the ticket. They're capable of producing and storing a lot of heat in various configurations. Wouldn't be an economical choice for the shop alone, given the need to charge them up and the delay in obtaining heat, but I don't know the prevailing cordwood prices, nor if you can harvest your own.
A number of years ago - Fine Woodworking Magazine had an article about heating shops. Good article. Might be worth looking up. I believe it was about 6-7 years ago.
I built a shop about 4 years ago. I used this article to find the proper furnace for the shop. I was going to use a wood stove (bought the stove, pipe, etc.). Even had the plans drawn up with the wood stove and received approval from the county. Then I started to think of how much space it was going to take up in the shop for clearances and decided on a natural gas furnace. I belive mine is made by Empire (that is without running out to the shop and checking). I got it because of the recommendation in Fine Woodworking. The whole unit is about 14" wide x 3' long x 2' high. It vents through the wall through a 4 inch hole with a two wall pipe. There is an electronic pilot and the flame uses air from the outside and never contacts the air in the shop. Thus dust never contacts the flame. The fan circulates the air in the shop over a hot coil.
All in all - a compact unit that is efficient. I know I live in a mild climate (50 miles north of San Francisco) but in the winter I belive it only costs me about $10 - $20 per month to heat the shop. Clearance from the wall is about 4 inches. Instillation is just bringing in gas (I believe it will run on propane also), a 120 V outlet nearby, and a 4" hole in the wall.
All in all I am glad I went with the gas heat over a wood stove. As much as I like wood stoves, I think the gas heat in the shop is very convenient and efficient and I have more space in my shop. I do heat the house with wood though.
Hugh
I built a shop about 4 years ago. I used this article to find the proper furnace for the shop. I was going to use a wood stove (bought the stove, pipe, etc.). Even had the plans drawn up with the wood stove and received approval from the county. Then I started to think of how much space it was going to take up in the shop for clearances and decided on a natural gas furnace. I belive mine is made by Empire (that is without running out to the shop and checking). I got it because of the recommendation in Fine Woodworking. The whole unit is about 14" wide x 3' long x 2' high. It vents through the wall through a 4 inch hole with a two wall pipe. There is an electronic pilot and the flame uses air from the outside and never contacts the air in the shop. Thus dust never contacts the flame. The fan circulates the air in the shop over a hot coil.
All in all - a compact unit that is efficient. I know I live in a mild climate (50 miles north of San Francisco) but in the winter I belive it only costs me about $10 - $20 per month to heat the shop. Clearance from the wall is about 4 inches. Instillation is just bringing in gas (I believe it will run on propane also), a 120 V outlet nearby, and a 4" hole in the wall.
All in all I am glad I went with the gas heat over a wood stove. As much as I like wood stoves, I think the gas heat in the shop is very convenient and efficient and I have more space in my shop. I do heat the house with wood though.
Hugh
I built a new shop 8 years ago and it has a high-efficiency gas furnace. The combustion chamber draws air from the outside so the fumes in the shop are not a safety concern with the furnace. (Obviously they are a concern for my health.) Dust collection is important, especially since my plumber doesn't like to clean crud off the heat exchanger.
Another thing to consider is the flooring in your shop. I went with a conventional wood floor with a crawl space below. Wood is warmer and easier on the feet, and it is also more friendly to dropped tools. The only draw-back is the load-bearing capacity for super-heavy equipment.
p.s. My insurance rates are lower because I don't have a wood-burning stove.
Another thing to consider is the flooring in your shop. I went with a conventional wood floor with a crawl space below. Wood is warmer and easier on the feet, and it is also more friendly to dropped tools. The only draw-back is the load-bearing capacity for super-heavy equipment.
p.s. My insurance rates are lower because I don't have a wood-burning stove.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Messages
- 231
- Likes
- 1
- Location
- Newville, PA (south of Harrisburg)
- Website
- www.torne-lignum.com
Gretch said:
Gretch, that's a shop I used to have before I moved and those pictures were taken the day after I had painted it all (ceilings, walls, floor) and, believe me, it NEVER looked that way again. It really was a cool shop, lots of personality but on a hill at the end of a long valley where the wind came up and ended at my barn. I won't go for the "view" again, my shop is low and protected from north winds.
Shop Heating
I have a small electric heater/cooler that does OK in my single car garage located under my house. The floor is concrete and I have thought about buying one of those heated floor mats to keep my feet from getting numb. Anyone using one? And how do you like it?
Thanks,
Ken
I have a small electric heater/cooler that does OK in my single car garage located under my house. The floor is concrete and I have thought about buying one of those heated floor mats to keep my feet from getting numb. Anyone using one? And how do you like it?
Thanks,
Ken
If you're building there's only one way to go:
http://www.arttec.net/Solar/BarnHeat.html
When I move out of Southern California, I'm definitely going this route for my shop and house if I can handle it. Insulation is also necessary, but if you're pouring a slab, you might as well take advantage of the opportunity to run the tubing.
You could even hook up the solar later.
Brodie
http://www.arttec.net/Solar/BarnHeat.html
When I move out of Southern California, I'm definitely going this route for my shop and house if I can handle it. Insulation is also necessary, but if you're pouring a slab, you might as well take advantage of the opportunity to run the tubing.
You could even hook up the solar later.
Brodie
Ken, I skip the heated floor mat and use the 6-8" of pounded down shavings on the floor. Does a pretty good job. Cept that lathe is gettin pretty short.
Dietrich
Dietrich
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2006
- Messages
- 197
- Likes
- 0
insulation is the first step to a happy winter shop. I like using woodstoves as it gives me a place to burn lots of scrap and junk mail.
Ruth:
I considered various heating scenerios before deciding on the gas furnace. My shop is a converted mother-in-law cottage. It originally had radiant heat and a fireplace. By removing the radiant heat I gained eight 220 volt circuits for use by the shop tools. I chose gas over oil because the pool and spa are heated by gas. The cottage was already adequately insulated so it was just a matter of installing the furnace and duct work. The furnace is a high efficiency Trane upright unit, not wall mounted. I have been very pleased with it's performance.
I'm located in northern Va. We met at 5 Barns this past summer. On your way down to Barbara Gills you could stop by and take a look if you would like. Georgia and I would be happy to see you again.
I considered various heating scenerios before deciding on the gas furnace. My shop is a converted mother-in-law cottage. It originally had radiant heat and a fireplace. By removing the radiant heat I gained eight 220 volt circuits for use by the shop tools. I chose gas over oil because the pool and spa are heated by gas. The cottage was already adequately insulated so it was just a matter of installing the furnace and duct work. The furnace is a high efficiency Trane upright unit, not wall mounted. I have been very pleased with it's performance.
I'm located in northern Va. We met at 5 Barns this past summer. On your way down to Barbara Gills you could stop by and take a look if you would like. Georgia and I would be happy to see you again.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2004
- Messages
- 372
- Likes
- 0
- Location
- Burnt Chimney, SW Virginia
- Website
- www.burntchimneystudios.com
Heat pump
When we moved to SW Virginia there was a shop on the premises. SWMBO suggested that I insulate it and get a heat pump. Smith Mountain Lake generates electricity, so a heat pump turns out to be the most economical way to go in this area. The shop is cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
If I was going to build a new shop I would go with the heat pump again. And I think the Robust would approve. 😀
When we moved to SW Virginia there was a shop on the premises. SWMBO suggested that I insulate it and get a heat pump. Smith Mountain Lake generates electricity, so a heat pump turns out to be the most economical way to go in this area. The shop is cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
If I was going to build a new shop I would go with the heat pump again. And I think the Robust would approve. 😀
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Messages
- 231
- Likes
- 1
- Location
- Newville, PA (south of Harrisburg)
- Website
- www.torne-lignum.com
Andy, thanks for the invitation and when you mentioned your wife's name, I remembered who you are. : ) Well "Andy" is common, "Georgia" is but not, in PA. ! I don't know if I'll be able to stop but if I can take some extra time, I'd certainly like to see your shop.
Ruth
Ruth
I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious- move to Florida! Now if you want to talk about how to air-condition a shop . . . . :cool2:
woodWish that I could!woodwish said:
Summer may be a cummin seed, but Autumn is upon us and snow ain't far behind! 😀
Thanks for all of the replies. I'm going to run this off on hard copy (remember when we used to callit paper?), and evaluate the pros and cons for each system. Wood is in abundance here on the island. I can get all that I want for free. My only concern is with fire hazzard. My shop is in a converted greenhouse, and I could insulate, but I would loose my view. I do appreciate all of you taking the time to answer this question.
In floor works good for me
I built a 24 * 24 workshop 2 years ago and took the opportunity to put in-floor heating in the cement slab. I use a 110V 1000 W water heater (the smallest I could get) and a circulating pump. I designed the system myself and used only 300 ft of pipe in the floor this is only about half of what the experts recommend. The walls are 2 * 6 construction and I doubled the insulation in the ceiling. I live in Nova Scotia and last year the workshop kept very comfortable. I cost me about $50 a month through the heating season. I have more details if you are interested.
Richard....
Stand clear, rest near and cut the wood as it wishes to be cut.
I built a 24 * 24 workshop 2 years ago and took the opportunity to put in-floor heating in the cement slab. I use a 110V 1000 W water heater (the smallest I could get) and a circulating pump. I designed the system myself and used only 300 ft of pipe in the floor this is only about half of what the experts recommend. The walls are 2 * 6 construction and I doubled the insulation in the ceiling. I live in Nova Scotia and last year the workshop kept very comfortable. I cost me about $50 a month through the heating season. I have more details if you are interested.
Richard....
Stand clear, rest near and cut the wood as it wishes to be cut.