I’ve used an electric chain saw - THEY CAN THROW OIL
I just need to say I’ve used chain saws, reciprocating, and rotary cutting tools to shape and remove rough wood. I might be concerned about a oil from a chainsaw except for two things. First, very little oil will come from a properly adjusted chain saw. If the saw is “throwing” oil, the pump may not be adjusted properly. For example, the recommended method to test the oil pump before using any chain saw is to aim the tip at a clean board or smooth rock a few inches away and run the saw at a very high speed - watch for oil spattering on the wood. (If seeing NO oil, you may have a real problem!) I have done this many times, almost every time I begin to use the saw, and I do see oil but it’s an very small amount. However, when it’s run at normal operating speeds, there is no or almost no spatter from the tip. By design, there is always a small amount of oil being pumped into the gap in the chain for necessary lubricant. (If you pick up a saw and there’s a puddle of oil on the floor, it can be a sign of the oil pump, or more likely the tubing or connections.) Secondly, almost any oil from the chain will come off the tip, not off the horizontal cutting section. Third, If any oil is “thrown”, or more realistically lightly spattered on the outside of the wood, it will not soak deeply into green wood (since the pores are already full of water) and that surface of the wood will almost certainly be cut away with no harm. (A dry wood boards with open pores is a different story)
The other thing I found is reciprocating and rotary blades are sometimes more difficult to control than moving the chain back and forth on the surface - assuming the log is supported so it doesn’t roll, of course. (Note that the bar must be held vertically with the chain at the bottom, not with the bar on it’s side with the chain cutting down the log. Maintain a good grip with both hands!)
Another way I’ve used often to remove irregularities before the next step (in my case, mostly preparing logs sections for further processing on the band saw), is to use a good old fashioned hand hatchet. I have a razor sharp SOG I keep on the shop wall which does a great job at removing bark and smoothing lumps and knots. This does take some energy and some time but works well. I’m also not opposed to using a mallet and a wide chisel, again razor sharp. (And all this is easier if the bark is split/pealed off first.)
BTW, one thing about using any sharp tools on the outside of the log section is, depending on where the log has been, its important to clean the surface. In my bandsaw video I briefly show using a wire brush to brush off any dirt which may contain abrasives (sand, fine rocks, etc.) Before I work on log sections that have been on the ground, a great way to clean the wood is stand the chunk up on a clean surface and hose it down with a strong stream of water from the hose, or better, if it’s handy, hit it with a small electric pressure washer. (In some cases, a strong pressure washer can also take off the bark for you. Wear eye protection!)
All this should go without saying but best to say it: if new to chain saws or other cutting tools, get some help/training from an experienced person! I once got a call from a girl I worked with who wanted to come visit - turns out she had signed up for a chain saw carving class starting the next day. She had never used a chain saw. Ackkk! I set up some logs and spent the better part of the rest if the day, starting with the basics of starting the saw safely, stance, grip, safety equipment, etc, basic cross cuts, hard emphasis on kickback with graphic examples what could go wrong, then longitudinal slicing, cross and radial plunge cuts, cutting with the tip without kickback (needed for carving), and everything else I could think of. She somehow got through the course without any 911 calls!
JKJ,
