Which chuck?

[Richard-tx]

I need a chuck for my Delta HD lathe. I attached a picture or the lathe.

I am torn between a Supernova2 and a PSI Barracuda2.

Has anyone actually tried both and is there a significant difference?

 

[Steve Worcester]

I think the choice really needs to come from where you are doing most of your turning now, how much expandability the system has and where you want to go. Look at a chuck system as an investment that will last through several lathes.

 

[GeorgeH]

Welcome to the forum, Richard.
All things being equal, I don't see enough difference in them to justify spending the extra bucks on the Barracuda. I'd go for the Nova on sale at Woodcraft.

 

[john lucas]

When I first bought a chuck I looked at the cheapest thing out there. Money was a problem. Now I look at all the little factors. do the jaws sizes overlap so I don't run into problems with tenon sizes. Do they have the jaws that I use. How easy is it to clean and/or disassemble the chuck. What style key does it use and which direction opens and closes the jaws. Since I demo a lot is it easy to change the inserts and do they have a wide variety of thread sizes.
These are all little things. Most chucks on the market will do a decent job of holding work. When you start doing production work it's all the little things that make a difference.

 

[LHauch]

Your choice should be based on what kind of turning you want to do. The Barracuda 2 was my first chuck, and I purchased it based on the fact that it came with the four different sets of jaws and I was sure exactly what I wanted to turn. I also picked up the 8" large jaws in order to turn off the tenon on bowls.
After I had turned for about a year, I decided to go with the Vicmarc VM-120 (I now own two) and started picking up extra jaws for them as projects demanded. I have most of the chucks offered, including the 14" adjusta-jaws.
While I own a NOVA DVR-XP I didn't get the Nova chucks because of the adjusta-jaws - Nova (and the PSI) chucks don't handle the size bowls I use the adjusta-jaws for.
Since our club has several of the Jet Mini lathes (1x8 spindle) I still use the Barracuda for demos and turn & learn sessions.
If you plan on getting another chuck at some point in the future, you may want to start with the Nova (I recommend Vicmarc, but that's just my preference) so that when you get a second Nova, the jaws will be guaranteed interchangeable. It's also tough enough to handle the bigger items.

Hope this helps. :cool2:

 

[Wyatt Holm]

It depends on what you plan to turn and what kind of jaws you want to use. The chucks don't make much difference. Just find a brand of chuck jaws that are the size and shape you want, then just get the chuck of that brand and you will be fine.

 

[bob elliott]

Richard,

I see this is your first post on this board. Does this mean you are new to woodturning?
If so, maybe you should try a smaller chuck (Nova G3) until you decide you will need to upgrade. As far as I know, the Nova jaws are interchangeable with their entire line of regular sized chucks (Titan Power Grip jaws only fit the Titan).
It appears you have a 12" capacity lathe, and according to the Technatool website, the SuperNova 2 is designed for a 20" lathe.

 

[Angelo]

Chuck

Someone once told me that if you buy good tools you cry only once....been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

Select the best quality you can afford then go one level higher!

BTW I am interested to see more of the thingy shown in Bob Elliott's avitar in the post before this one

A

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'm Novas times three, but have not heard much negative about the PSI clone. The Novas have a good stable of jaws, though I find myself using two (25mm pin and 50mm) for bowls and one ("75mm") for hollowing, leaving the tenon-chewers in the drawer.

Ol'Blue, my "medium duty" Delta handled the Super just fine. Get the dual-threaded insert so you can turn in or out on the occasion. I had no problems with it seating or with concentricity, so you get additional possibilities for the same price.

 

[Richard-tx]

Richard,

I see this is your first post on this board. Does this mean you are new to woodturning?

If so, maybe you should try a smaller chuck (Nova G3) until you decide you will need to upgrade. As far as I know, the Nova jaws are interchangeable with their entire line of regular sized chucks (Titan Power Grip jaws only fit the Titan).
It appears you have a 12" capacity lathe, and according to the Technatool website, the SuperNova 2 is designed for a 20" lathe.

I am new to bowl turning. I have done a bunch of spindle turning and turned a couple of 8" diameter newell posts. I have also done some tool handles and misc other items.

I would rather get the Teknatool Supernova2 because I like the fact that an allen wrench tightens and loosens the jaws.

The PSI Barracuda is nice, but it has that special wrench. Getting a replacement in the years to come could prove to be a challenge.

I think both cost about the same at about $200.

As far as size goes, my lathe is a gap bed lathe. As such I can turn 14"-16" diameter platters and such.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Sad to say, if you use a chuck almost all the gap is taken away. Faceplates will allow turning over the gap, or you can go outboard with the LH thread. My non-insert Tommy bar ancient Nova would allow 3/4, IIRC, but the keyed types are longer. It's ~2.375 inches from the spindle nut to the max depth grip on my Supernovas.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I bought the PSI Barracuda chuck a few years ago, but since I got a new lathe I use me Vimarc 140 chuck( I prefer to use tommy bar chuck over the key operated chuck). Since I now longer use it, I could sell it to you, it includes the carrying case that has the woodworm screw, 2" jaws, 3"jaws, pin jaws, step jaws, and 8" cole jaws.
Wyatt Holm
turner.wyatt@gmail.com
435 467 0351

 

[Richard-tx]

I am interested in your chuck but your email addr isn't working.

PM sent

 

[bob elliott]

I use me Vimarc 140 chuck (I prefer to use tommy bar chuck over the key operated chuck).
Wyatt Holm
turner.wyat@gmail.com
435 467 0351

Wyatt,
I also have the 140 Vicmarc and the original Oneway (also tommy bars). Very satisfied with those chucks!

 

[Richard-tx]

Sad to say, if you use a chuck almost all the gap is taken away. Faceplates will allow turning over the gap, or you can go outboard with the LH thread.

Yes, you are correct. A face plate come to mind but that opens a different can of worms. Maybe outboard turning is the solution for that.

 

[Russ Fairfield]

I have posted some information on chucks on my website. It might be helpful.

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/Chucks.html

 

[Wyatt Holm]

Thanks Russ,
That article you wrote was a great help to me. I have recommended it on this forum in the past.
Before I got my 140 chuck I borrowed a friend's his must have been an older style because I could open the jaws a lot further than I can with my new one. Well I fixed my new one by removing the safety pin, now it opens wider than my friends chuck. I just have to watch it a not open it so wide that the jaw slides come out.
Wyatt

 

[bob elliott]

I have posted some information on chucks on my website.

Russ,
One thing you might want to add as an update to your site is the newer Vicmarc chucks aren't the rust buckets they used to be and apparently come with corrosion-resistant coating. I have had no problem and have never oiled my chuck since I purchased it three or so years ago. In addition to the chuck bodies, the corrosion-resistance seems to include the jaws.
If it was going to rust, it would rust here in Florida!

 

[Odie]

I have posted some information on chucks on my website. It might be helpful.

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/Chucks.html

That was an enjoyable read, Russ.

Thanks for posting it.

I would have recommended the Oneway Stronghold on this thread, but it didn't seem to be what the original poster was interested in.

I now have three Oneway Strongholds, and they are the only chucks I use these days.

I have gone through a progression of chucks, until I've settled on the Oneway Stronghold.

Nova chuck was my first in the late 1980's. Then I played around with the 3" and 4 1/2" Vicmarc chucks. Both were satisfactory. Since I wanted the large mega jaws for finishing the bottoms of bowls, I purchased my first Stronghold sometime in the early 1990's. Eventually, neither of the Vicmarcs or the Nova were being used.......so I sold them. I now use the Oneway Strongholds exclusively. Reasoning: The Vicmarc has (or did have) a jaw gripping surface that is much less powerful than the Stronghold......the Nova was a good starter chuck, but became too small for my purposes. I realize both brands now have a geared key to operate, but mine were the old fashioned bars that required three hands to operate well.

You mentioned that the Oneway might not be as precision, due to it's design. This, I find not to be a problem, since the first chucking is usually on unseasoned wood being prepared for drying, and any discrepancy is a moot point after the bowl has some warp after drying. Unless one is doing multiple chuckings on various stages of a completed bowl (which I usually do not), I don't see where a small variance in chucking precision is a factor at all.

The variety of jaw sizes available for the Stronghold is outstanding.......With the exception of the flat jaws where you make your own wood grippers, I have all of them. I've never had any instances where the jaws available didn't meet my needs.

If I were going to make a recommendation, it would be the Oneway Stronghold.......or, for lathes less than 16" swing, the Oneway Talon would be a good option.

Russ, you are also right that faceplates should be considered. For those who will consider faceplates, I'd strongly suggest looking into a screw center with optional holes on the perimeter for screws......when extra holding power becomes necessary.

It's also a good idea to match a particular jaw to one chuck jaw slide......and this is what I've done on mine. Since the Stronghold jaw slides are numbered, all that was necessary is to use my vibrating engraver to mark each individual jaw.

otis of cologne

 

[MichaelMouse]

As the user and advocate of dovetail holds I find some of what Russ says misleading or inaccurate. There is no "grip," to a dovetail. It is a wedge. It ensures full contact of the front of the jaws to the piece, even draws them a bit, though one should never use words like "tighten" any more than "grip" when referring to chucks. The piece is not held with "four points" of contact, it is wedged anywhere the piece tries to lift away from the jaws, even if it is not a near circle. Just as the shoulders on a mortise/tenon joint in flat work, it is the shoulder which resists racking. Use of tenon-smashing jaws can actually pull the shoulders away from the front of the chuck, since there is no wedge, merely an edge, which exerts equal force both toward and away from the shoulder as it bites into the wood.

Mortises allow greater depth on log shapes, because you don't turn a quarter-three eighths of an inch away when you're nearly done. They also keep you from making a tenon too small on wet stock, because the wood closes in and reduces their diameter as the piece dries. As far as funnel-making goes, any of the folks who make a center recess for stability in stance on a bowl after parting away the tenon are at the same risk.

Further advantage to non-destructive holds in that re-mounting is always possible and perfect, because you haven't deformed the wood in any way by "tightening" to increase your "grip." So you don't end up fishing for the status quo ante where the piece ran true. The dovetail recess/tenon being always circular and the shoulder always drawn into full engagement makes it a simple matter. Those of us who integrate a recess as our finished bottom can even re-mount later to take the finish off of a piece or put in a couple of finger ridges.

Consider dovetail holds when you want to hold a circle, the other type of jaws are more suited if you want to hold a square.

 

[GLENN ROBERTS]

Just to add a few more things to consider, the idea of a wedge is more evident on the Vicmarc and Vermec jaws also they use a large jaw face than the Nova etc. Which provides a larger surface to ensure a more positive hold.
I think these 'issues' are often lost when people are looking at buying chucks.

While on the subject, one chuck worth adding to the list is the new Vermec chuck www.vermec.com it has a lot of features and while perhaps not as readily available in the USA with the low Australian $ it might be worth considering. Well worth a look.

I mention their chuck as I think that well made innovative products by small companies deserve to be recognised, as they assist turners greatly.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Have you seen the so-called 75mm set for the Teknatool chucks? There's some surface for you. I find it a great set for holding a tenon, because the breadth of jaw comes at the expense of the center. I can get a worthwhile shoulder on smaller pieces with them than the 50mm.

Of course, wide jaws are a mixed blessing. You almost want to undercut a bit on the shoulder as you do with the bottom of a bowl so it sits on a ring. Take the leverage over the breadth of contact.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I have never heard that anyone broke the jaw face on a set of jaws, I suppose that possibly it has happened but again I've never heard of it. That would not be a big priority in shopping for a chuck. Now what was important was that if I had two different size chucks that I would not have to buy different jaws for each size chuck. When I bought my DVR it came with a Super Nova chuck and at that time I did not even know that all the jaws(except one set, the Titan Powergrip Jaws) fit all the current line of chucks. I only use the Nova chucks because that is what I started with and I see no reason to mix and match. Not that they are better as it still seems to me that its a brand thing (Chevy/Ford) when people talk about these things. If you use any of the big 3 chucking systems you will not be disappointed. I do agree with MichaelMouse that the 75mm jaws are massive jaws. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[Gordon Seto]

I believe there were some outdated information here. I don't have extensive personal experience with all the brands, so I am sticking with what I have. I am not a cheer leader of what I have. I am not going to argue who makes a better chuck.
I choose Nova is based on that I think they are more consumer friendly. From their tiny Precision Midi, G3, SN2 to the 7 pound plus Titan, all the jaws are interchangeable (except the Power Grip for Titan as seen in picture). The two key operated chucks were the babies in the Nova family of chucks. I like that when they design the Titan that requires 3 screws per slide; they can still be backward compatible with the smaller jaws that use two screws per slide. I also like their faceplate rings. I also like their long nose jaws.
Oneway design is better for the Oneway pocket book than ours. When you upgrade from a Talon to a Stronghold, you have to repurchased all the jaws again. That is a lot of money.
The picture is the Titan chuck with the 75 mm bowl jaw, Titan Power Grip Jaw and the regular Power Grip Jaw for comparison.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I have seen a lot where people do not like lever operated chucks, due to having to use the two tommy bars and needing three hands. The way I do it with my Vicmarc 140 chuck is engage the spindle lock, then I can have single handed tightening using only one tommy bar. Not only do I have one handed tightening, it is also faster.
Wyatt

 

[waltben]

I believe there were some outdated information here. I don't have extensive personal experience with all the brands, so I am sticking with what I have. I am not a cheer leader of what I have. I am not going to argue who makes a better chuck.
I choose Nova is based on that I think they are more consumer friendly. From their tiny Precision Midi, G3, SN2 to the 7 pound plus Titan, all the jaws are interchangeable (except the Power Grip for Titan as seen in picture). The two key operated chucks were the babies in the Nova family of chucks. I like that when they design the Titan that requires 3 screws per slide; they can still be backward compatible with the smaller jaws that use two screws per slide. I also like their faceplate rings. I also like their long nose jaws.
Oneway design is better for the Oneway pocket book than ours. When you upgrade from a Talon to a Stronghold, you have to repurchased all the jaws again. That is a lot of money.
The picture is the Titan chuck with the 75 mm bowl jaw, Titan Power Grip Jaw and the regular Power Grip Jaw for comparison.

I've one of each of the Nova's (although my Super is an older open back one) and just about all their jaw sets save the big ones for the Titan. With three lathes in two (sometimes three) different places, it was the only way to go. The single drawback with Technitool that I've found is that the "Cole" bowl jaws are too small and the buttons not as very well engineered for what I needed. A Vicmarc 120 with their two larger bowl jaws solved that problem and am very pleased with them for what I need.

 

[Odie]

I have seen a lot where people do not like lever operated chucks, due to having to use the two tommy bars and needing three hands. The way I do it with my Vicmarc 140 chuck is engage the spindle lock, then I can have single handed tightening using only one tommy bar.
Wyatt

Wyatt.......

Sometimes the solution is so simple that it embarrasses some of us to hear it!

If I ever use another chuck that operates with the tommy bars, I'll remember that.....thanks for making your point.

hog

 

[Wyatt Holm]

You can thank Mike Mahoney for that. When I watched his video "From The Tree To the Table" I noticed he used a tommy bar chuck and operated it in that manner. Also if you set up a good vacuum chuck, I don't think you need cole jaws.

 

[Gordon Seto]

Some production turners also prefer the tommy bars operated chucks, because they are faster acting.

 

[Aaron G+11]

As mentioned earlier in this thread, it is the little things that make or break a tool like a chuck. Furthermore, the same feature might be a boon for one and a bane for another. I find the Technatool (Nova) chucks to be well made and fairly priced, however, the fact that to close the chuck requires the key to be turned counter-clockwise makes is a no go. The fact that my Stronghold and Talon chucks are backless are an asset to me. It permits me to clean it with a blast of compressed air. A fellow turner, who is not fond of the design, likes to tell me that I would not have to clean it if it had a back on it.

I doubt that you will go wrong with any of the big named chuck manufactures, Oneway, Technatool, and Axminster. Look for the features that are the most important to you. Play on other people's stuff and ask what they like and don't like about it before you invest.


God luck,

Aaron

 

[MichaelMouse]

I find the Technatool (Nova) chucks to be well made and fairly priced, however, the fact that to close the chuck requires the key to be turned counter-clockwise makes is a no go.

Got myself one of those left-tilt saws a while back. Had a hell of a time changing blades at first because all my life tablesaws had arbors that tightened counter-clockwise.

I learned pretty quickly though. No mental blocks in my head. 😉 Guess the reason I never felt frustrated by the opposite thread on the Nova chucks is that I use them almost exclusively in the expansion mode where right is tight.

"Lefty Lucy doesn't spread 'em for Chuck" is my mnemonic.

 

[waltben]

Also if you set up a good vacuum chuck, I don't think you need cole jaws.

I have to use bowl jaws to clean the bottom of oval bowls, where I can't use my vacuum system through the VOD oval turning chuck. I've a Stubby 750 that I modified with risers to get 34" swing so even the large jaws don't hit anything while moving about with the VOD.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I doubt that you will go wrong with any of the big named chuck manufactures, Oneway, Technatool, and Axminster. Look for the features that are the most important to you. Play on other people's stuff and ask what they like and don't like about it before you invest.


God luck,

Aaron

Don't leave Vicmarc off the list!
Wyatt

 

[Aaron G+11]

Sorry did not mean it as a slight, just another "Mental Block", or was it "Mental Pause."😱

 

[ken belanus]

vicmarc fan

looking at the specs, see that vicmarc has the largest grip range, so is the most useful to me. as to any rust bucket charges, i have an old vm120 and the newer model with the chrome plating neither is rusting and wd-40 and wax are cheap... boeshield on an item costing about as much as a minilathe makes sense to me.

i noticed that John Berkeley, Dick Sing, Richard Raffan, and several other pros who do ornaments and boxes have two vm-120 chucks. after selling some work i bought a second identical chuck with extended dovetail profile jaws. so i would not have to change jaws anymore. this is pretty lazy and oh so obvious, but having two chucks is like having three lathes, you can have a part in each chuck and remove it from the lathe spindle to switch to a spur drive or the second chuck. after careful study of their books i learned that getting what the pros have in your area of specialization/interest is where you want to be. they even showed me what jaws i needed, and i have been totally satisfied never change jaws and can grip anything i need. if i went for larger work, i would get a third vm120 and the step jaws, a 3-1/2 dia chuck with 1-8tpi is just right for me, but you might need a 5-1/2 inch for larger work.

after using a supernova for two years and selling it with a lathe upgrade i can say that i do not like articulated keys, and that geared keys are a pest compared to hex recess. three surfaces have to be engaged to insert the key every time. also look at the size of that spinning hole on the old supernovas and most all oneways. all they are doing is saving the making of two geared parts that have the hex key recess and engage the scrool gear, but also close and reduce the open hole/spinning safety hazard.

a vicmarc can crush anything you give it with a 6:1 gear ratio and new jaws can grip and hold on 1/16 inch if the wood can take it...but you know i hate to say this, but i glue-block most of my work to save expensive wood...just like the pros say to do. these guys earned their place in turning, look at the pictures in their books and learn.

Just to clarify, i have the 3-1/2 inch diameter smaller chucks and after reading Rob Wallace, my part numbers may be incorrect. Does being an ISU graduate help my case for a pardon, Rob???

 

[Rob Wallace]

Another nod to Vicmarc...

I just got my third Vicmarc chuck a few months ago (I now have two VM 100's and one VM 120), as well as owning one of the Vicmarc 100 knock-offs from Grizzly (had to try it, just to compare...).

I like the fact that you use a T-handled hex key to tighten or loosen the chuck, and don't have to be sure gear teeth are meshed to seat the handle before you can work the chuck. All of the Vicmarcs are remarkably smooth in their operation. The 'issue' of "reverse" tightening isn't one for me; when using the left hand, tightening onto a tenon requires the use of the strongest digit - the thumb - very ergonomically designed, IMHO.

When the right deal comes along, I'll probably spring for another VM 120, if I don't move to the new VM 150 "dual action"......

I've heard it said that chucks are like clamps - you can't have too many...(!). Gee, Mr. Rogers, can you say "tool junkie"? Sure you can.....

These chucks prove the point that Elle McPherson is not the only beautiful thing to come out of Australia!

Cheers,

Rob Wallace