Which chuck should I use?

[Duane A Ross Jr]

I am turning some 3X3X12 pieces and making candle sticks holders out of them. The first two I used a worm screw and the tail stock. But when they are dry, I am not going to be able to remove the tail stock to cut the recess for the candle to sit in. The worm screw certainly will not hold it alone. What should I use to hold a square piece of wood tight so I can cut it again? All I have right now is the Supernova2 with 50MM jaws.
Thanks!

 

[Mark Mandell]

If you're turning straight (as opposed to multi-axis) sticks, what I've always done is the same as when I do tool handles. Drill your "receiving" end hole (cup) first, then bury your live center on the TS in that while using the spur drive on the HS end. However, nothing says you can't use a 4-jaw scroll chuck instead of the spur drive.

 

[n7bsn]

Marks idea would certainly work, but if you wanted to use a chuck, I really like the holding power of the spigot jaws. They grip square stock solidly

TTFN
Ralph

 

[David Wilkins]

Or you can use the chuck and jaws you have, they certainly would work. Each time I tackle a new project I mentally reference how it was done 100 years ago to see if I'm overthinking it.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'll second the idea of boring first, turning after. Do it to the green wood and when dry, clean it out again. If you have the Nova live center the taper alone will center and hold. I know a guy who regularly centers for roughing and final turning on a bore quite similar.

If you didn't buy one purpose-made, alter one of your 7/8 spade bits to taper to a touch less than 3/4 over 3/4 of an inch so that the standard taper will be a close fit.

I would NOT use the Nova spigot jaws. Have a set, and they're worthless unless you're interested in chewing wood if the bit stalls. The 75mm (83) jaws have good broad faces to shoulder on, and a long dovetail to draw the shoulder tight. If you're going to bore on the lathe, get or make a steady or two.

 

[john lucas]

I have done it both ways. My prefered method is to bore the holes first. Then I have a custom made center for my tailstock that fits the hole. I use a special candlestick boring tool from Woodworkers supply. It drills a tapered hole to match the candle. Then I simply mount everything between centers and turn turn the candlestick.
The other method I have used is to glue a wasteblock on the base of the candlestick and then put that end in the chuck. I bore the whole and then turn the whole candlestick. If I have chatter problems I'll bring up the tailstock with my custom insert.
I turn some candlesticks with 2 parts. The main spindle and the base are separate. I turn the spindle between centers and turn a tenon on the bottom. Then the base is turned using a glue block and CA with accelorator. After I turn the top portion I bore a hole for the tenon. Then I have a wasteblock with a dowel in it that fits the tenon. I hold the base on that using the tailstock to hold it in place. Turn the bottom and then carve away the last little tenon.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I am turning some 3X3X12 pieces and making candle sticks holders out of them. The first two I used a worm screw and the tail stock. But when they are dry, I am not going to be able to remove the tail stock to cut the recess for the candle to sit in. The worm screw certainly will not hold it alone. What should I use to hold a square piece of wood tight so I can cut it again? All I have right now is the Supernova2 with 50MM jaws.
Thanks!

Duane,

While I have not made any candle holders, I have made plenty of tool handles and the basic idea is the same. I don't think that it is really necessary to use a woodworm screw or chuck to hold the candlestick at the headstock end. I would just mount it between centers using a Stebcenter, dead center, or spur drive at the headstock end and a live center at the tailstock that can accommodate shop-made attachments such as a tapered fitting to fit a drilled hole.

For the tapered hole that fits the candle, you can buy a special tapered drill or just make your own the way that MM does. Of course, if you had a chuck (and, preferably a steady rest, you could turn the tapered hole.

I am not too keen on the idea of rough turning green wood for spindle work -- I just don't believe that there is anything to be gained. Saw the wood into turning blanks and let them thoroughly dry or find or buy or borrow or steal wood that is already dry.

Whether to drill the hole first or last is up to you. I have done it both ways. Drilling first is probably better in that I would prefer the disappointment of the drill bit grabbing and messing up an unturned blank as opposed to ruining a finished spindle.

 

[Joe Greiner]

I turn vases and candle holders from whole logs or quarter-split logs, substantially longer than the final product, and not necessarily dry. Square stock would work almost the same.

I mount the workpiece between centers, and turn a tenon to match the chuck jaws. Then I mount it in the chuck, and bore the hole from the tailstock. For candle holders, I use a spade bit ground to the shape of a candle cup (e.g. CSUSA's 041-0444).

I replace the drill chuck with the live center, with the truncated cone/cup center just nesting in the hole, with very little end pressure. Turn the final shape. I shape most of the bottom by cutting into the excess length to leave a foot ring, until there's a small post remaining. Cut it by hand with a small saw, and remove the remnant with a hand chisel or a small router bit in a Dremel, off the lathe.

If the tenon is the only intended waste, I'd cut it off flush. For hand saw clearance and rotational symmetry, I'd re-chuck the tenon with reduced purchase, and rotate the piece by hand, sawing gradually to the center.

A foot ring is more stable than flat, but with dry wood it shouldn't matter.