Which Chuck For Bowl Turning?

[jpscroller]

I am new to woodturning and just recently purchased a Jet 1442 lathe. I want to try turning some bowls and vases, and obviously will start small, but would like to grow into bigger projects. The lathe is supposed to handle up to 14 inches over the bed. In the reading I have done, it looks like I would need a chuck to hold the bowl on one end (if not using the faceplate) and then turn it around and use some sort of jaw set to hold the open end of the bowl, so that the bottom can be finished? Am I wrong about that? Which chucks should I try to get? Also, will a larger chuck work on a mini lathe? Thanks for any help.

Jeff

 

[Jeff Jilg]

There are a lot of ways to skin that cat (turn a bowl).

• use a screwchuck, and either pare off the stub or fill in the hole
• use a faceplate with screws, then use a compression chuck to turn the bottom
• use a 4 jaw chuck, which provides a few different ways to do it
• use a pin chuck, and fill in the hole or pare off the tenon

You should consider purchasing a book or two on the topic, and or watching a local demo, or purchasing a video. Also use the search feature on this forum to find more info about this. This topic comes up frequently and there are a bunch of posts about this already in the forum. Turning your first bowl will be great fun. Just plan it out a bit and take it slow. Before you know it you'll have stacks of roughouts just like this At that point people will know you have an obsession rather than a hobby. :cool2:

 

[john lucas]

Jeff pretty much nailed it. I used to use faceplates and then put a scrap piece of wood with leather on it and bring up the tailstock to hold it in place while turning the bottom. I start most of my bowls between centers to there is a center mark to make lining the bowl up easier.
Now I do the same thing but I just put a rubber sink stopper over my chuck and bring up the tailstock to turn the bottom. It's faster than using my vacuum chuck. I will use the vacuum chuck if I need to but most of the time I can have the bowl turned in time it takes to change to the vacuum chuck.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Larger chuck would work on a mini-lathe of the same thread. The 1442 is a 1"8TPI? However, your smaller lathe will appreciate a smaller chuck, and if you use suspenders in addition to your belt, your big lathe doesn't need anything too big and heavy.

Mainly, don't let anything "hang out" unsupported unless you absolutely have to. Use your tailstock or a steady if you can. I use a pin chuck for roughing bowls, which is almost a tough to dislodge as a properly applied faceplate, and I don't pull the tailstock back until I'm ready to make the hold for the flip. I leave the center in until the bulk of the interior is removed after the flip. No merit in my house in unnecessarily loading a chuck, so I get things as light as possible before snugging up and going solo.

Scroll chuck is the choice. Don't believe any are intrinsically better than the others, though it ought to operate smoothly with properly-mating parts. Most recommendations will be the brand the individual owns, and the subject of recess versus tenon has sparked some nearly religious conflicts. I don't care for "feet," so I favor a recess. Means I buy chucks with dovetail holds.

 

[Dudley]

Jeff,
Did you treat those rough outs with something before you placed them on your "stack?" If so, what did you use?

 

[Jeff Jilg]

I am a die-hard Anchorseal user. There is a thread about it here

I've tried other techniques but am not in a hurry. Anchorseal works great. The only problem wood I've encountered is oak, and around here it is just too reactive - it would rather crack than become a bowl.