Where can I get a commercial pin tool rest?

[Odie]

The tool rest on the bottom left has holes across the top and a pin that can be positioned in any of the holes. I got this from CSUSA about 15 years ago, and I'd like to get something like this that will extend further to the side of the post than this one does.

Anyone know of one that I can take a look at?

If not, I may end up making one, but if there was one available commercially, that might be cheaper than I can make one myself. (I would have to pay for wire feed welding)

thanks for any leads........

OOC

 

[Donna Banfield]

Odie, the rest that you describe sounds like the a tool rest used in metal spinning. Oneway sells that rest, very heavy duty.

http://oneway.ca/metal_spinning/index.htm#spinning_rest

You mention 'reasonable cost', and Oneway is rarely cheap. But then, the picture you have shows what I believe are a couple of oneway tool rests, and if they are yours, then you already know that. But, IMO, you get what you pay for in most turning tools and equipment.😀

 

[Odie]

Odie, the rest that you describe sounds like the a tool rest used in metal spinning. Oneway sells that rest, very heavy duty.

http://oneway.ca/metal_spinning/index.htm#spinning_rest

You mention 'reasonable cost', and Oneway is rarely cheap. But then, the picture you have shows what I believe are a couple of oneway tool rests, and if they are yours, then you already know that. But, IMO, you get what you pay for in most turning tools and equipment.😀

Hi Donna.........

Yep, those tool rests are mine, and yes, I have a couple of Oneway tool rests. I can't praise the Oneway toolrests enough.......tough, sturdy and durable!.....if a bit pricey! As you say, with the Oneway rests, you certainly get what you pay for!

That Oneway metal spinning rest might work for my purposes, but would need some modifications.....At $132, I believe I can make my own a bit cheaper, and customize it to my needs, too boot!

Thanks for providing the link......I was totally unaware of that one!

OOC

 

[Tony K. in NC]

maybe something like this?

This may or may not fit your needs.

http://www.shop.woodcut-tools.com/section.php?xSec=4&jssCart=f834727031dc85521219b1e95c15a048

 

[Odie]

This may or may not fit your needs.

http://www.shop.woodcut-tools.com/section.php?xSec=4&jssCart=f834727031dc85521219b1e95c15a048

Thanks for adding that, Tony....

For my purposes, a post would probably work out better than a "U" shaped swivel.

In the past several days, I've been working on a modification of the tool rest that I have......just finished up this morning. Haven't tested it yet, but it does look like it ought to work.

Thanks to you and Donna for responding......I think maybe I've found the solution I was looking for.

OOC

 

[Donna Banfield]

I'm curious....

What are you going to be working on that you need a 'pinned' tool rest?

Could you post some photos of your tool rest, and the piece that you created with the new tool rest when you've finished? I'd like to see it, and a few others may be curious, too.😀

 

[Odie]

What are you going to be working on that you need a 'pinned' tool rest?

Could you post some photos of your tool rest, and the piece that you created with the new tool rest when you've finished? I'd like to see it, and a few others may be curious, too.😀

You bet, Donna......

I'll try to get you a pic tonight, or this week-end.......along with an explaination of what I'm doing with it. 😀

ooc

 

[Odie]

I've been using the pin rest during roughing the interior of bowls.

Because I'm using a standard straight grind for this, I can't get the bevel to rub as I "round the corner" near the base of the bowl. Instead of switching gouges to a different, or double bevel grind, I've gotten into the habit of using a pin rest. This allows me great control of the tool without necessitating the bevel to rub. It can get a little tricky to learn this technique, but once the principles are established in your mind, it's like anything else......follow some basic rules, and it will be a useful technique to have in your "bag of tricks"!

No real "rocket science" here!

I realize others have their own ways of handling the difficulties of roughing out an interior curve, and that's ok. I'm not trying to say my way will be best for everyone.......just that it's the way I, and a few other woodturners have evolved to.

The first photo shows the pin rest as it was a few days ago. Even then, there were some mods that I did about 15 years ago! The rest itself was originally square shaped, and I ground it to be more a triangular shape.....along the lines of many common wood lathe tool rests.

The second photo shows recent modifications to the pin rest. The post was removed, and repositioned to the end of the rest. This gives me a better "reach" into the interior of a bowl. The original pin was shortened a little for better clearance. A second pin was added, and will be used on the last, or furthest hole from the post. This pin is surrounded by a big thick fender washer. The purpose of the washer is to provide additional support when the gouge is at an extreme angle to the supporting surface of the tool rest. I've added a stop collar with (don't know what you call it) finger screw* adjustment. This allows me to rotate the pin tool rest on the banjo while maintaining the current height setting.

* Edit: It's called a "THUMB SCREW", dagnab it! (I didn't have the right size thumb screw, so I made my own for the stop collar out of a bolt that I did have!)

None of this is unique to me. I've seen photos right here in the members galleries of others who are using their own versions of pin tool rests. I suspect most people who try it, decide to not pursue it, because it's not really a better way of doing things......it's just a different way to do it.

ooc

 

[Donna Banfield]

I get it....

I understand the idea behind the pinned tool rest. It gives your fulcrum more leverage.

I, too, have had my problems with making that transition at the bottom of curves, and for that reason, I will switch to a traditional grind bowl gouge where the bowl is really deep, like a calabash form. Otherwise I stick with the only bowl gouge grinds that I use now - hand-held grinds, ala Hannes Michelsen.

But like I tell my students, there are probably a half-dozen different ways to accomplish the same thing. If you like, try them out, and see which one works for you.

Thanks for sharing that with us, Odie.

 

[rsser]

Don't you get a load of tear-out that way Odie?

 

[Odie]

Don't you get a load of tear-out that way Odie?

Howdy rsser......

Not if the tool is ground right, and presented correctly. If it's done right, it can be close to as solid and rigid as if a bevel were rubbing.

This method isn't used in lieu of more traditional methods, but only supplemental in some circumstances where the curvature might require it, and the particular chunk of wood being turned is accepting of it.

ooc