when to use a skew chisel

[Kevin Jenness]

I admit it. I am not comfortable using a skew chisel when I need to not screw up. If I used nothing but a skew for a month I would get over that fear, but I would still have the question, when is a skew the best tool for the job?

I visited a long time member of my turning club who has done a lot of exquisite spindle work for a lesson in skew chisel use, and when I explained that I was there to learn how to get a better surface on the outside of the tall hollow forms I have been working on he said that he didn't use a skew that much except for v cuts and finish cuts on the end of spindles. We talked a lot and experimented with different gouges that seemed to work as well for planing cuts as a skew if presented properly, and I came away bemused.

Later the same week I took a workshop with another club member who is adept and confident enough with a skew to venture teaching the subject. At the end of the class I asked him my question about when to use a skew. He hemmed and hawed a bit, said that was a good question, and admitted that when he is making final cuts on a Christmas ornament for sale he usually reaches for a spindle gouge, as it was less chancy. He said that he uses a skew more of late after more practice, but when I asked if it was because it was the better tool or because it was a challenge he didn't really give a straight answer.

I can think of a number of cuts that can be done with a skew; peeling, planing, roughing from a square blank, v-cuts, beads, shallow coves, end trimming, pommel cuts.. Which of these do you grab a skew for and why?

 

[Isaac Litster]

I think it is good at many different cuts, and can do it all, but other tools can do it easier/less "chancy". When I think of the skew I think of Steve Jones, who has a video on YouTube of the possibilities of a skew. In that video, the conclusion is that the skew can do (nearly) anything spindle-related. However, he uses a spindle gouge on coves in his other videos, probably because it is easier. Skews can do a lot, but unless you are a production spindle turner, and need to minimize the amount of time grabbing for another tool, are not always the best tool. I am rather new at turning, but I find that the skew does make a cleaner cut on the extremely soft woods in the Alaskan rainforest, but it is limited to rougher work, such as roughing, planing flat/slightly curved surfaces, and occasionally the ends.

 

[Dean Center]

When I started turning, the very first time I made something, I used a skew. My teacher handed it to me and I was too ignorant to know to be scared. I'm totally comfortable using a skew for anything it can do. That said, it's not the only tool that can do anything, so there's no requirement that anyone learn to use it. I like it and use it whenever doing spindle work, if I have a sharp one and happen to grab it first.

IMHO, the skew is the superior tool for: V cuts, shearing cuts on spindles to get a smooth surface, facing off cuts on the ends of spindles, shaving the end grain edges of box tops and bottoms, getting into 'deep', narrow spaces where a gouge won't reach. I think it would also be best for furniture/architectural type turning, where you need a pommel or something, but I don't make those. The skew is the inferior tool on wonky/figured grain, and narrow coves.

For those who want to learn to use a skew because it's a challenge, I suggest you then move on to the bedan. Now there's a scary tool.

 

[hockenbery]

A lot of times I work with a skew and spindle gouge and sometimes choose the tool that is in my hand.
Most of the time the skew gives the best surface on spindles.

Pommel cuts a skew give me the cleanest surface and a nice curve
Beads on spindles I use a skew - best surface, best shape
Beads on bowls I use a spindle gouge best surface best shape
Vee cuts skew or pyramid tool

Here is an example of tools I use the goblet was not sanded
.

Bowl Top bead and bottom groove turned with a 1/2” spindle gouge

 

[Richard Coers]

peeling, planing, roughing from a square blank, v-cuts, beads, shallow coves, end trimming, pommel cuts.. Which of these do you grab a skew for and why? All of these in my shop. Why? The superior finish off the skew and less sanding, and for long tapers nothing matches the straight surface that comes off the skew. That long bevel on the skew is like using a handplane on lumber. Scrapers have nothing to register from on the wood. just a small bur, spindle gouges have a fraction of the surface on the bevel and much easier to get wander off a straight surface. When I was learning how to use a skew I studied Richard Raffan's books and videos. I had better luck with a slight curve on the skew. But now I use both straight and curved. It's not the tool that is hard to use, it is a simple tool that takes lots of time to get the feel. It's a skill like all the others we must learn to do woodturning. Biggest issue with beginners using a skew? They put a death grip on the handle waiting for it to grab. Loosen your grip, feel the shearing of the wood, and expect your cut will be good. When I learned to mountain bike, I learned to look where I needed to go. If I looked to the side expecting to slip off the trail and fall down, I did.

 

[Bill Blasic]

For me the answer is when I need to open a can of paint. Although I have a drawer full of them I have never felt the need to use them. I've taken cuts with one of them and I've made the dreaded screw cut all in the same time trying it out. For what I do I don't need a skew. My go to tool almost since the start of my turning has been the Thompson 5/8 V Bowl Gouge. I've seen the pros that use the skew and I'm in awe of their skills in using them but again a skill I do not need. As an aside I do believe the skew is the only turning tool that I received a cut from and that happened just putting them away, they are sharp!

 

[Dave Landers]

I don't use a skew often. Sometimes, for me, it's the best tool for a peeling cut to reduce the diameter of a spindle. Sometimes it can get into a corner better than a gouge. It is great at making a straight or nearly-straight planing cut. But I rarely reach for it if I can do the same task with a gouge. Just my comfort zone.

One thing I do like about a skew sorta tracks some of what @Richard Coers said about feeling the cut. If you can get over the anxiety of using it, it is a great tool to learn (or teach) how the bevel (on any tool) cuts. It's easier to see and feel what's happing at the cut because the cutting edge is straight and simple (vs the curves in a gouge's cutting edge).
When demo'ing goblet stems, I spend some time talking about the bevel supporting the cut, direction of cut, why catches and spirals happen, etc - and about half the time I'll start that discussion with a skew because it's easier to see what's happening at the edge. But I do the demo spindle with a gouge.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, as a bowl turner, I do pick up the skew once in a while. Mostly for my boxes and any spindles that I want to make. The peeling cut is optimal for dimensioning rough stock. I generally get a better cut with the skew on spindle grain. If I can learn to use it, any one can. I would not use a skew on hollow forms though, even long grain ones. Mostly, I think, because of the diameter of the turnings.

robo hippy

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I would not use a skew on hollow forms though, even long grain ones. Mostly, I think, because of the diameter of the turnings.

robo hippy

Why would the skew not be a good choice for large diameter planing cuts?

 

[John K Jordan]

I can think of a number of cuts that can be done with a skew; peeling, ..... Which of these do you grab a skew for and why?

Kevin,

I use skews on spindles, large and small. I use them for planing cuts, peeling cuts (fastest way to remove wood), both shallow and deep v-cuts, facing cuts, and shallow curves, as well as roughing on most spindle blanks (depending on the "splinteriness" of the wood). I don't use skews for large beads, spheres, globes of ornaments, and such, although I have friends who do. (One is the best ornament turner I know, shapes the globe with a 1/2" round skew.)

As to why, it depends! Mostly because it's the fastest and cleanest way to make certain cuts. The details could fill a book. Next time I get to Vermont maybe I can look you up and come visit. Or if you get down to East TN, stop in for a day. (I've had people come from pretty far for lessons and to visit!) As my piano teacher always said, "Everything's easy once you know how!"

Some of the skews I use the most, from 1-3/8" to 1/4". I use the 1/2" skews the most.



I think it's well worth the effort to learn to use correctly. It's so sad that many people get afraid of the skew, often when they first try it and get a scary catch. Some never get over it. I've heard professional demonstrators joke about the skew only being good for opening cans - that doesn't help a bit. Maybe instead they could demonstrate some proper techniques (if they know how).

Some never learn how to sharpen properly, and KEEP them sharp during use, which is a big handicap. (I want "shaving sharp".)

I turn a lot of spindles, often very thin, and I rely on the skew, complemented as needed with the spindle gouge or Hunter tools for curves. Over the last 14 years or so I've done demos on thin spindles at six different clubs in four states. I take lots of examples, including a couple of long, thin spindles that taper from about 1/.2" to about 1/16" over about 25" or so, pictured here. One of these is walnut, the other one (with a handle) is from a piece of pine shelving board from Home Depot. (Before someone asks, I use no steady rest.)



Warning: this may be controversial to those who don't understand - the proof is in the results: I think spindle turning with a skew is so important that I always start beginners with the skew as the first tool in their hands, even if they have never seen a lathe before. I've done this dozens of times (and not one has ever gotten a catch). I have developed a method of teaching where I start with a rounded blank with the lathe off. I turn the lathe by hand and guide them into the correct stance and tool presentation and let them experiment until they learn to make shavings. I'm watching every second and instruct to correct the tool angle, grip, tool rest use, horizontal motion - both what to do and what NOT to do!. When the blank gets cut into a little, I take over and turn it smooth again so they don't have to fight with the surface unevenness.

I believe this is a FAR better way to teach the skew than starting with the lathe spinning! Once the person can repeatedly make perfect, thin shavings, I turn the lathe on as slow as it can go and they make more shavings. As they get more comfortable, I gradually turn up the speed. After the planing cuts, we work on v-grooves. Next is beads and coves with a spindle gouge. Before they leave, I finally introduce the roughing gouge.

As well as young people, I've taught remedial skew to guys even older than me [gasp!}. One told me recently that the lesson I gave him years ago changed his approach to turning and the skew is now one of his favorite tools. Several younger students have told me the same thing: "that pointy one, that was my favorite". One teen girl, starting from zero, ended up getting her own lathe - she's now an expert turner, not only with spindles, but bowls, platters, vases, etc., plus wood burning and decorating. She's starting to get a following in her area! Makes me smile.

Coincidentally, I was just now preparing to make a post about a demo I did on thin spindles a few days ago in Knoxville. To accompany the demo, I wrote a 30 page document as a handout (and a separate doc on texturing). My thin spindle demos focus on "magic" wands to show a variety of techniques, and discuss other thin spindles such as making conductors batons. (a great project, BTW!)

A few pages from my latest thin spindle document:



I plan to write a post about this demo as soon as I can figure out the right place to post it. (I've had an extended absence from all the forums, a story for another time.)

JKJ (yikes, he's back!)

 

[Kevin Jenness]

John, thanks for the lengthy reply. I like the idea of teaching and learning the basics of tool presentation at very low speeds. I look forward to seeing your demo.

I am getting less clutched up about using the skew, and I appreciate Richard Coer's observation about not falling into the ditch by not looking at the ditch. After a several hour workshop I feel a lot more comfortable with the various cuts, but not comfortable enough to confidently reach for the skew to perfect the surface of a large blank, especially without being sure it is the best tool for the job. What do you think of Robo's eschewing the skew for long grain hollow forms, particularly largish ones (6"+ diameter)?

 

[Kirk Yarina]

John, very OT but your profile pic sure looks like a lamb being fed through a Prichard's teat. We've retired from farming but used a lot of those during our nearly 30 years of sheep farming

 

[Curt Fuller]

They make a great negative rake scraper.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

What do you think of Robo's eschewing the skew for long grain hollow forms, particularly largish ones (6"+ diameter)?

I'll take a stab at this. The large diameter/circumference of the turning vs. the relatively short and straight edge of the skew chisel puts the points/tips/ends of the tool edge hauntingly close to the spinning wood. If the tips find the spinning wood accidentally, it creates a sphincter clenching unplanned design change.

Now, a curved edge skew (usually rather large in size, often over 1" wide) as shown on the far left in John's skew chisel image above, can buy a little more open space between those tips and the wood, making cuts on large diameters less stressful.

The skew chisel is a great utility tool that does a lot of things if you can spend some time practicing with it. Look for some Richard Raffan videos, he shows and teaches it really well.

 

[John K Jordan]

profile pic sure looks like a lamb being fed through a Prichard's teat.

Actually, an orphaned baby goat being bottle fed. I had a bunch of goats at one time but sold them when I started getting llamas and alpacas. The camelids share the same parasites with goats but instead of dropping them in piles the goats spread them everywhere!

Look for some Richard Raffan videos, he shows and teaches it really well.

I really like Raffan's books (hey, I got him to autograph some when he was in TN)



As a beginner, I actually learned woodturning from two books, Raffans "Turning Wood" and Mike Darlow's "Fundamentals of Woodturning". I have nothing against (some) videos, but the fact is there is SO much more information in a book, both in width and depth, than would ever fit in a video of reasonable length. Good in-depth explanations, well thought out exercises. Some learn better from videos, though. I learn better from the words/photos/diagrams.

JKJ

 

[Larae Palmer]

Kevin,

I use skews on spindles, large and small. I use them for planing cuts, peeling cuts (fastest way to remove wood), both shallow and deep v-cuts, facing cuts, and shallow curves, as well as roughing on most spindle blanks (depending on the "splinteriness" of the wood). I don't use skews for large beads, spheres, globes of ornaments, and such, although I have friends who do. (One is the best ornament turner I know, shapes the globe with a 1/2" round skew.)

As to why, it depends! Mostly because it's the fastest and cleanest way to make certain cuts. The details could fill a book. Next time I get to Vermont maybe I can look you up and come visit. Or if you get down to East TN, stop in for a day. (I've had people come from pretty far for lessons and to visit!) As my piano teacher always said, "Everything's easy once you know how!"

Some of the skews I use the most, from 1-3/8" to 1/4". I use the 1/2" skews the most.

View attachment 66925

I think it's well worth the effort to learn to use correctly. It's so sad that many people get afraid of the skew, often when they first try it and get a scary catch. Some never get over it. I've heard professional demonstrators joke about the skew only being good for opening cans - that doesn't help a bit. Maybe instead they could demonstrate some proper techniques (if they know how).

Some never learn how to sharpen properly, and KEEP them sharp during use, which is a big handicap. (I want "shaving sharp".)

I turn a lot of spindles, often very thin, and I rely on the skew, complemented as needed with the spindle gouge or Hunter tools for curves. Over the last 14 years or so I've done demos on thin spindles at six different clubs in four states. I take lots of examples, including a couple of long, thin spindles that taper from about 1/.2" to about 1/16" over about 25" or so, pictured here. One of these is walnut, the other one (with a handle) is from a piece of pine shelving board from Home Depot. (Before someone asks, I use no steady rest.)

View attachment 66928

Warning: this may be controversial to those who don't understand - the proof is in the results: I think spindle turning with a skew is so important that I always start beginners with the skew as the first tool in their hands, even if they have never seen a lathe before. I've done this dozens of times (and not one has ever gotten a catch). I have developed a method of teaching where I start with a rounded blank with the lathe off. I turn the lathe by hand and guide them into the correct stance and tool presentation and let them experiment until they learn to make shavings. I'm watching every second and instruct to correct the tool angle, grip, tool rest use, horizontal motion - both what to do and what NOT to do!. When the blank gets cut into a little, I take over and turn it smooth again so they don't have to fight with the surface unevenness.

I believe this is a FAR better way to teach the skew than starting with the lathe spinning! Once the person can repeatedly make perfect, thin shavings, I turn the lathe on as slow as it can go and they make more shavings. As they get more comfortable, I gradually turn up the speed. After the planing cuts, we work on v-grooves. Next is beads and coves with a spindle gouge. Before they leave, I finally introduce the roughing gouge.

As well as young people, I've taught remedial skew to guys even older than me [gasp!}. One told me recently that the lesson I gave him years ago changed his approach to turning and the skew is now one of his favorite tools. Several younger students have told me the same thing: "that pointy one, that was my favorite". One teen girl, starting from zero, ended up getting her own lathe - she's now an expert turner, not only with spindles, but bowls, platters, vases, etc., plus wood burning and decorating. She's starting to get a following in her area! Makes me smile.

Coincidentally, I was just now preparing to make a post about a demo I did on thin spindles a few days ago in Knoxville. To accompany the demo, I wrote a 30 page document as a handout (and a separate doc on texturing). My thin spindle demos focus on "magic" wands to show a variety of techniques, and discuss other thin spindles such as making conductors batons. (a great project, BTW!)

A few pages from my latest thin spindle document:

View attachment 66926

I plan to write a post about this demo as soon as I can figure out the right place to post it. (I've had an extended absence from all the forums, a story for another time.)

JKJ (yikes, he's back!)

Awesome teaching method. Good for you.
I was just handed an oval skew once and didn’t know I should have been nervous about it. It’s now one of my favorite tools!

 

[Don Stephan]

JKJ - great to see you out and about again!!!

Several years ago I watched a video where the turner was changing tools every minute or less - so much wasted time. The skew is very versatile.

 

[Hugh]

When to use a skew?
I think it is when you decided to go fishing and need an anchor.

 

[Dean Center]

When turning larger 'spindles', one thing to keep in mind is that you need to raise the tool rest so you can continue to work on the 'top half' of the spindle. IMHO, a radius edge or curved skew is more forgiving. Larger might also keep the long point out of danger, but the size of the cuts being made is most important in choosing a skew size. Small beads=small skew, long tapered table legs=large skew, for examples.

 

[John K Jordan]

They make a great negative rake scraper.

Certainly, but a good NRS really needs a burr.

Some people use the grinder burr, but in my experience is this has a very short life. I find it far better to burnish a burr. I used to use a 1/4" carbide rod, then went to much smaller dia carbide rods (tighter radius, more burr for the same force), and finally found the French-made Arno burnisher - it's amazing! It has a small diameter carbide rod on one side, the other is a "triangular" shaped carbide - but the active edge is not sharp but with a very small radius. In addition, the handle is great and both carbide pieces are pre-mounted at an angle which is good for most cabinet scrapers and NRS.

I couldn't find the Arno for a long time but yay, I see it on Amazon now:

https://www.amazon.com/Arno-Carbide-Cabinet-Scraper-Burnisher/dp/B076GW8N5K

I just ordered another for "just in case."

If you haven't compared a NRS without and with a burnished burr, you're in for a treat. Whisper shavings that float into the air. (I refresh the burnished burr numerous times - diamond hone/burnisher - before having to return to the grinder.)

Speaking of negative rake scrapers, I came up with this grind some years ago and it's my favorite for bowls, platters, and other face work. I keep at least two, with the burrs on opposite sides so I'll 'll have both "left handed" and "right handed" scrapers. These are somewhat like many I've seen but my main addition is the flat on the end instead of the typical curve - makes smoothing some things SO much easier, especially when "turning air".



I grind these from Thompson steel.

In use, "turning air" while making one of my "small squarish dished platters".



It's surprising how smooth these leave the surface. A bit of hand scraping and 400/600 paper (by hand or micro ROS) and it's like glass.

JKJ

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

A lot of times I work with a skew and spindle gouge and sometimes choose the tool that is in my hand.
Most of the time the skew gives the best surface on spindles.

Pommel cuts a skew give me the cleanest surface and a nice curve
Beads on spindles I use a skew - best surface, best shape
Beads on bowls I use a spindle gouge best surface best shape
Vee cuts skew or pyramid tool

Here is an example of tools I use the goblet was not sanded
View attachment 66913. View attachment 66914

Bowl Top bead and bottom groove turned with a 1/2” spindle gouge
View attachment 66916

Awesome post. Love the pictures.

 

[robo hippy]

If I was to put an 8 inch spindle blank on the lathe to turn round, I would take it to the table saw first and trim off the corners. I would then, probably, take a skew to it to round it out. Anything above that size and I go to a gouge. Not sure why, but the gouge is a far more familiar tool to me. On bowls, I use a scraper for all of my roughing. For smaller spindles, I use the skew in a peeling cut as learned from Eric Lofstrom. This is more for spindles 3 inch or so diameter, or less.

As for using a skew for a NRS, the angles are too acute for me, and the burr is gone in seconds. For me, I prefer some meat under the burr to give it strength, and a burnished burr is at least as sharp as the grinder burr, and far longer lasting. With the skew, just like a kitchen knife, you have to strop off the burr before using. It really makes a huge difference.

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

John, very OT but your profile pic sure looks like a lamb being fed through a Prichard's teat.

Actually, an orphaned baby goat being bottle fed.

Ok, since I don't have goats anymore but have been collecting equipment, I changed my profile photo to one I use in some other forums.
Anyone in the area or passing through - If you haven't operated an excavator, tracked loader with/without a grapple and would like to, stop in and you can dig some holes, move rocks, brush and logs.

I tell people this is a woodturning tool - I can easily pick up a 1000 lb log and cut a chunk off the end!



Amazing, this young friend had never operated one of these!
(I've known her since she was 5, in my kindergarten SS class)



JKJ

 

[Chris Hoehle]

@John K Jordan, I ordered one of the Arnos, looking forward to giving it a try. Is that about a 40 deg. included angle I'm seeing on your NRSs?

 

[John K Jordan]

@John K Jordan, I ordered one of the Arnos, looking forward to giving it a try. Is that about a 40 deg. included angle I'm seeing on your NRSs?

I grind those NRS to 60-deg angle. I haven't tried it, but my gut feeling is 40-deg might be too accute.

BTW, the long grinds on those scrapers take a significant amount of grinding! I've switched to a 60 grit CBN for all my tool shaping, then sharpen on a 600 grit.
These are made from Thompson straight-end scrapers. I ground the one in the middle from a Thompson skew chisel - note the rounded edge he machines on the edge that contacts the tool rest, for easier control for some cuts. The rounded edge doesn't make any difference when used as a scraper, but the spare skew happened be handy when I made these (years ago)



I demonstrated the Arno burnisher to a student here yesterday after showing some other burnishing options. He immediately ordered an Arno!

Just FYI, note that Arno also sells a tool that at a casual glance "looks" like the burnisher, but is a knife sharpener - one side removes metal easily, the other puts leave a nice, sharp edge.
Both come with a very nice leather case!

JKJ

 

[Bill Boehme]

Why would the skew not be a good choice for large diameter planing cuts?

The larger the diameter, the wider the shavings because more of the cutting edge will be in contact with the wood. This means that at some point as the diameter increases, the skew will be on the hairy edge a world-class catch. A giant screw thread on the hollow form will become the featured enhancement.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Ok, since I don't have goats anymore but have been collecting equipment, I changed my profile photo to one I use in some other forums.
Anyone in the area or passing through - If you haven't operated an excavator, tracked loader with/without a grapple and would like to, stop in and you can dig some holes, move rocks, brush and logs.

I tell people this is a woodturning tool - I can easily pick up a 1000 lb log and cut a chunk off the end!

View attachment 66975

Amazing, this young friend had never operated one of these!
(I've known her since she was 5, in my kindergarten SS class)

View attachment 66976

JKJ

That would be fun. When I was 14 my dad put me in one of these scrapers. Moving dirt is satisfying. He and I built an airport in 1976, when I was 16. I ran front loaders, scrapers, and road graders on that project.

View: https://youtu.be/9ysTo34dzCE

 

[Neil S]

I have seen the Swedish woodturner Ulf Jansson, who is an end grain specialist, turning the outside of his thin bowl forms with a skew.

View this content on Instagram

View this content on Instagram

View: https://www.instagram.com/p/CPZFMRHjAEn/

He turns the inside of those forms with a ring tool, which he refers to as a curved skew!

You can see some of his pieces at the bottom of this page...

Demonstrator on the Woodturning cruise, Ulf Jansson

This trip is a once in a lifetime voyage where you will not only see the beautiful country of Norway but you will meet many wood turners, learn a lot of turning techniques from skilled turners, and even do some wood turning yourself on the high seas! A very special experience! Although it is a...

www.woodturningcruise.com

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