What would you call it?

[Dave Fritz]

What would you consider a home made finish of equal parts - poly, mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil to be? An oil finish that soaks into the wood or a film finish like lacquer? My understanding Danish Oil and other similar finishes are all combinations similar to the one I've mixed up. Their contents and ratio's are secret.

 

[David Martin]

I've used a lot of spar varnish over the years and from what I can tell they are all a combination of an oil, mostly tung oil, and a resin of some sort, and a carrier which I think is usually mineral spirits. They also add driers and UV filters, and all sorts of super secret whatevers. Looks to me like what you have are the basic ingredients of a traditional varnish.

 

[Carl Scott]

That is close to Captain Eddie’s OB shine juice He used Boiled Linseed Oil, Shellac and denatured alcohol in equal parts. U can watch his YouTube video on it

 

[Curt Fuller]

I'd call it a really great finish. A few years ago during the pandemic I wasn't able to find Watco Danish Oil locally so I decided to try making my own. I use Spar varnish, BLO, and paint thinner in equal amounts. It has enough poly from the spar varnish to provide a good sealer with one coat but can also be built up with multiple coats and buffed for a glass like finish if you want to take the time for that. And, if it starts to thicken I can just add a little more thinner. It's not a fast finish, a little slow to dry especially in the winter, but it has become my go to finish for most of what I make.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Rubbing varnish, varn-oil, love rub, call it what you want, it's similar to most wipe-on oil-based finishes. You can thin straight polyurethane and get the same effect. If you build up enough coats it will become a film finish with the characteristics of the ingredients, if wiped on and wiped off to get a thin build you will get a modicum of protection and just enough thickness to buff out. If you do want a smooth built-up film use a resin system with a minimum of thinner, spray or brush it on, let it cure and sand/buff it.

 

[Dave Fritz]

Thank you gentlemen. I'm getting tired of buying all the different finishes and am trying to simplify things as well as saving a few bucks. I think I'm settling on doctors walnut oil for food serving plates, platters and bowls, straight poly for items that are handled a lot like ice cream scoops, peppermills etc. and this mixture for decorative and lightly used items.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

What would you consider a home made finish of equal parts - poly, mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil to be? An oil finish that soaks into the wood or a film finish like lacquer? My understanding Danish Oil and other similar finishes are all combinations similar to the one I've mixed up. Their contents and ratio's are secret.

I would call it an age-old finish.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I’d call it not quite danish oil. Thin it a bit more, to the same viscosity of purchased danish oil, and its likely the same. I think the only varnish available these days has poly, the others have disappeared from the market. Spar vanish just has more oil in it (and possibly uv inhibiters), so its pretty close to DO just thinned.

As to film or “in the wood”, either one, its all in the application. Really doesnt matter if blo or tung oil is used, no appreciable difference at the end of the day. If I want a filled film finish Its usually lacquer sprayed, far easier to rub out (and not get ghost lines) vs any varnish.

I’ve used variations for many years. Most of my turned pieces get some form of thinned poly/oil. Whether you want a film or not, for the 1st coat, apply a thinned version just like DO - flood on, keep it wet for at least 10 min, longer just gets more in the wood, then wipe it all off. This seals the wood well and makes film forming coats much more even. You can stop after the 1st coat and buff and get a pretty nice finish. You can wet sand with the finish to fill defects, remove dust, etc. adding a 2nd coat the same way fills things in a bit. As the thinners evaporate, the finish finish can be rubbed to fill in, very similar to gel poly.

Letting it soak in helps build structural integrity to punky or weak wood. Your infusing the wood fibers with plastic basically.

 

[Marc Banka]

My ‘go-to’ finish has been Walnut oil and wax, as I’ve considered what I make as ‘table ready’. Could be daily use stuff.
But, reality is that some, especially the bigger bowls either won’t be used, or will get occasional use. Wanting a finish a bit harder and more handleable I played with the varnish mixes (danish oils?).
I used equal parts blo, varnish and a solvent. The solvents I tried were naptha, mineral spirits, and turpentine.
My non scientific observations are that: the naphtha goes away very quickly, less drying time. Mineral spirits has longer drying, and the turpentine took three days to dry.
Three large Sweetgum bowls,,each finished with the same mix except for the solvent. The amount of finish that the wood soaked up all varied according to the drying speed, with the turpentine using near twice the finish compared to mineral spirits. The naphtha thinned mix used very little.
My observation is that the turpentine finish is smoother and deeper, has a glow not in the other two. By virtue of the amount of finish in the wood? Maybe something else? The turpentine seems oily, does that go away or does it impart something else??

But, that fearsome smell of turpentine. It’s a powerful thing!

 

[Richard Coers]

I'd call it a homemade brew. I've always been skeptical of folks who take on the roll of chemist by mixing liquids and expecting a better solution than the professional engineers who have labs to study their products.

 

[Doug Freeman]

@Marc Banka you didnt detail your application process, which can effect the result. Ive used real ms (not the green garbage), paint thinner (not green stuff), and naptha. My method is to saturate the wood, keep it wet, until the wood pretty well stops soaking it up, then wipe it off. With the same amount of solvent (usually 1/2 or 1 solvent to 1 finish) I get basically the same results. If you are just wiping it on (not saturating) you will see a difference.

There will be a difference in dry to the touch time, but not actual cure time.

 

[Marc Banka]

@Doug Freeman, you’re right and thank you.
My method was to flood the piece, as you suggested, continuing to wipe on, rub in for as long as the piece was accepting more. 30 minutes, or so. I would come back after a while to wipe any remaining finish setting on the surface. Just one heavy coat. I don’t want a film finish, but do want to fill and fortify the fibers.

I had mixed the amount of finish I thought was reasonable for the size of these bowls. Three tablespoons of varnish, oil and solvent. The piece thinned with naphtha absorbed roughly 1/4 of the mix. The mineral spirits (pure mineral spirits labeled “paint thinner”) took more, maybe 1/2? The piece for which I used turpentine absorbed all but about 1 tablespoon.

So, what’s going on here, is my question. Going into this, I assumed there would be little difference , that a solvent was just to get the mix thin enough for one’s purpose, but I think there is more going on here, especially as regards the turpentine. Does the longer open time set the finish deeper? Is the oily nature of the turpentine more compatible with the wood fibers? Give better penetration? Turpentine isn’t used much, although it’s on the shelf at Lowe’s? Did folks move away from it just because of the smell? And maybe marketing, ‘just as good, dries fast without the stink’. And was something lost?

I don’t have the years experience that some of you enjoy, especially as regards finishes, but I am a quick study! So, I do enjoy gaining from your wisdom, particularly if you can share the why as well as the how.

My interest in playing with finish mixes is twofold. First, I would lIke to mix the finish that I need only, eliminating the skinning over problem of canned commercial products. Secondly, and most important to me is that I gain an intuitive understanding of these mixes and what the different elements of the mixture do, how different species of wood respond differently.

 

[Doug Freeman]

@Marc Banka I’ve been using wood finishes for 40 yrs but I still have a lot learn. I like to know what’s actually going on with finishes vs what a mfr’s lying marketing materials say.

Sounds like you did a good comparison test, providing observable controls. The results suggest the slower evaporating solvents allow deeper penetration into the wood, which makes sense. You might put small samples of ms and turpentine in separate containers, say small dishes, and check evaporation times. As yet I havent found a comparison. The links below state there are some different types of turpentine, that can have varying amounts of residue. More solids content would explain the visual results you are reporting.

Q&A: Mineral spirits vs. paint thinner vs. turpentine vs. naphtha - FineWoodworking

Solvents can be incredibly confusing and the most common point of confusion is paint thinner vs. mineral spirits. To many, mineral spirits and paint thinner are interchangeable—both in function and […]

www.finewoodworking.com

solvents

www.mguest.plus.com

 

[Marc Banka]

@Marc Banka I’ve been using wood finishes for 40 yrs but I still have a lot learn. I like to know what’s actually going on with finishes vs what a mfr’s lying marketing materials say.

Sounds like you did a good comparison test, providing observable controls. The results suggest the slower evaporating solvents allow deeper penetration into the wood, which makes sense. You might put small samples of ms and turpentine in separate containers, say small dishes, and check evaporation times. As yet I havent found a comparison. The links below state there are some different types of turpentine, that can have varying amounts of residue. More solids content would explain the visual results you are reporting.

Q&A: Mineral spirits vs. paint thinner vs. turpentine vs. naphtha - FineWoodworking

Solvents can be incredibly confusing and the most common point of confusion is paint thinner vs. mineral spirits. To many, mineral spirits and paint thinner are interchangeable—both in function and […]

www.finewoodworking.com

solvents

www.mguest.plus.com

@Doug Freeman, thanks for the link and your suggestions.

Interesting article with not a whole lot applicable to our/my situation and needs. It states that naphtha is the clear winner because it goes away the fastest, which might be desirable for flatwork, but doesn’t help to soak the finish deeper. For that, slower drying seems best.
The differences between similar solvents, paint thinner vs mineral spirits is great to know. And that the more pure of the two has less odor.
The mention of purity of turpentine is also great to hear. So, I did a bit more reading about turpentine. Apparently, the good, more pure has very little odor and no fumes. It’s commonly used as a digestIve aid - well being supplement. Who knew!?

I think my reported results, the turpentine thinned finish is deeper, has to do with the amount of finish absorbed.

To continue my little journey, I’ve ordered pure turpentine (food grade) and some expensive varnish from tried & true. I’m excited to try using a product that’s pure, no dryers, additives, heavy metals and so on. I’ll report back!

 

[Darryl Fective]

Not quite a Danish oil, but a sweet finish. How about Swedish Fish Oil?

 

[hughie]

I'd call it a homemade brew. I've always been skeptical of folks who take on the roll of chemist by mixing liquids and expecting a better solution than the professional engineers who have labs to study their products.

Maybe, where I live I used to buy Minwax products imported direct from the USA, namely Wipe on Poly and Antique Oil. A local manufacturer copied the W.I.P. and then undercut the importer till they stopped importing. Now the 'new W.I.P' is all that is available, and it does not compare in finish and quality. So now I resort to making my own in an effort to get what I want. The bottom line is a powerful sentiment that drives many today.