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What tool for knurled texture?

M

Michael Perez

Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Messages
254
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64
Location
Lima, Peru
Hello I’ve been looking for a tool to create knurled texture and I’m kinda confused, according to my research there are basically 3 types

1 spiraling system that works with interchangeable toothed cutter (Robert sorby and Crown)

2 texturing tool The knurled wheel on this tool stamps a pattern(Wagner).Maybe this is not the most convenient for hardwood

3 Henry Taylor decorating elf, that uses an hss cutter (like dremel)



If you have any experience or recommendations will be very helpful for me, before buying one or attempting to make one I would like to know your advice.
 
The Wagner or Ron Brown knurled wheels work very well on hardwoods. You can get different patterns depending on what angle you hold the tool at when pressing into the wood.
 
Ed Weingarden said:
The Wagner or Ron Brown knurled wheels work very well on hardwoods. You can get different patterns depending on what angle you hold the tool at when pressing into the wood.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, just checked and Ron Brown is available in Amazon sell by peachtree and the wagner is out of stock in craft supplies.
there are 2 option in RB 1/4 x 12 tpi and 3/8 x 16 tpi.
do you think that the 1/4 small would be more appropriate for small pieces?
greetings
 
This ornament is red gum eucalyptus - one of the hardest woods that grows in Florida.
You must have harder woods


I have the Wagner and use it to texture these little ornaments. Does a nice job.
IMG_0645.jpeg. IMG_0646.jpeg. IMG_0647.jpeg

I try to make the grooves 48mm to be perfect circle diameter of my chuck jaws. Lets me grip the groove without marking the ornament.
 
Michael, I've had the same question myself. The 3 different tools you mention all produce a different result, so it depends on what you want to do. A chattering tool would be a 4th type. I'm looking forward to someone providing a comparison of them, in words and pictures. Thanks for asking.
 
I use the Robert Sorby Micro Texture Tool

372980274_10160975003391692_7548982243593008314_n.jpg
 
Dean Center said:
Michael, I've had the same question myself. The 3 different tools you mention all produce a different result, so it depends on what you want to do. A chattering tool would be a 4th type. I'm looking forward to someone providing a comparison of them, in words and pictures. Thanks for asking.
Click to expand...
Thank you ,I really would like to try all of them but now I’m interested in the knurled texture like the one in the thumbscrew.
 
Michael Perez said:
do you think that the 1/4 small would be more appropriate for small pieces?
Click to expand...
I use the 1/4 x 12 for both small and larger pieces. You can get wider texturing by applying the wheel next to the first pattern you put in. You can keep going as wide as you want. Or, you can put multiple patterns in by leaving a space between them. Then I accentuate each pattern with a small V groove on each side of the pattern. When I bought the Ron Brown tool (a number of years ago), it came with a CD showing the various things one can do with it. If there's no CD, you can find demos on Youtube.
 
Richard Coers said:
If you did metal turning you might see the humor in your title. You know, like asking who is buried in Grant's Tomb. A knurling tool will work great to add knurling texture!
Click to expand...
Hahahahhah, I don’t do metal turning but I understand, I like the thumb screw knurled texture, and first when I was looking for it, I found the knurling tool but for metal the one that has 2 cutters, do you think it will work also for wood?
thanks for the funny comment
 
Ed Weingarden said:
I use the 1/4 x 12 for both small and larger pieces. You can get wider texturing by applying the wheel next to the first pattern you put in. You can keep going as wide as you want. Or, you can put multiple patterns in by leaving a space between them. Then I accentuate each pattern with a small V groove on each side of the pattern. When I bought the Ron Brown tool (a number of years ago), it came with a CD showing the various things one can do with it. If there's no CD, you can find demos on Youtube.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, if I decide to buy the RB I’ll go for the 1/4.
 
Michael Perez said:
Hahahahhah, I don’t do metal turning but I understand, I like the thumb screw knurled texture, and first when I was looking for it, I found the knurling tool but for metal the one that has 2 cutters, do you think it will work also for wood?
thanks for the funny comment
Click to expand...
Yes they work fine. I made a special texture tool for doing acorn Christmas ornaments because I wanted a heavier texture. I bought a cheap star grinding wheel dresser at Harbor Freight. I took out about 1/3 of the stars and ground the rest to a fine point. It really grinds up the wood, but mimics white oak acorn caps quite well.
 
Richard Coers said:
Yes they work fine. I made a special texture tool for doing acorn Christmas ornaments because I wanted a heavier texture. I bought a cheap star grinding wheel dresser at Harbor Freight. I took out about 1/3 of the stars and ground the rest to a fine point. It really grinds up the wood, but mimics white oak acorn caps quite well.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, I do woodworking but have many tools for mechanist, my squares, my blades, milling bits and also my drill press with a proxxon xy table.
greetings
 
Of the three options I definitely prefer the knurling tools. I have three! :) I mostly use them for spin tops, bowl bottoms, and decoration under box lids - so I prefer the narrow ones. Recently purchased the ¼"x12 tpi from RB. Also have a Wagner ¼"x16 and a RB 3/8"x12.
I prefer the Wagner tool design better, but as I recall Wagner doesn't have a 1/4x12 option. The way I use them I had to pop the pin on the RB's to remove the wheel and then grind down the body to come close to the pin/axle hole. I also like the chatter tool - but that only works well on end grain.

www.aawforum.org

Tops for Charity

Maple tops – textured and colored with acrylics, inks, iridescent, interference, and metallic paints. Every year the New Jersey Woodturners club members make tops and the club sells them at events throughout the year. All proceeds go to the...
www.aawforum.org www.aawforum.org
www.aawforum.org

Tops for Charity (view of bottoms)

Maple tops – textured and colored with acrylics, inks, iridescent, interference, and metallic paints. Every year the New Jersey Woodturners club members make tops and the club sells them at events throughout the year. All proceeds go to the...
www.aawforum.org www.aawforum.org
 
Tom Gall said:
Of the three options I definitely prefer the knurling tools. I have three! :) I mostly use them for spin tops, bowl bottoms, and decoration under box lids - so I prefer the narrow ones. Recently purchased the ¼"x12 tpi from RB. Also have a Wagner ¼"x16 and a RB 3/8"x12.
I prefer the Wagner tool design better, but as I recall Wagner doesn't have a 1/4x12 option. The way I use them I had to pop the pin on the RB's to remove the wheel and then grind down the body to come close to the pin/axle hole. I also like the chatter tool - but that only works well on end grain.

www.aawforum.org

Tops for Charity

Maple tops – textured and colored with acrylics, inks, iridescent, interference, and metallic paints. Every year the New Jersey Woodturners club members make tops and the club sells them at events throughout the year. All proceeds go to the...
www.aawforum.org www.aawforum.org
www.aawforum.org

Tops for Charity (view of bottoms)

Maple tops – textured and colored with acrylics, inks, iridescent, interference, and metallic paints. Every year the New Jersey Woodturners club members make tops and the club sells them at events throughout the year. All proceeds go to the...
www.aawforum.org www.aawforum.org
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for sharing, very nice work.
The Wagner is out of stock, do you know if any of these options will work ? I always end buying mechanist tools for woodworking.
I’ll be very thankful with your advices and recommendations.

 
Peter D'Attomo said:
Yes, these wheels will work well. As said above, you can score the lines straight or on an angle. You do not need a 2 wheel holder
Click to expand...
Thank you, i was thinking in the two wheel holder because i want to get the diamond texture and my concern is if I can get diamond texture with single wheel working in an angle?
 
Michael Perez said:
Thank you so much for sharing, very nice work.
The Wagner is out of stock, do you know if any of these options will work ? I always end buying mechanist tools for woodworking.
I’ll be very thankful with your advices and recommendations.

Click to expand...
I made a Knurling tool with two opposing wheels . One on each end of the tool and all you do is flip it to get a crosshatch pattern. I found the knurling on wood not deep enough to get the pattern I wanted. I have all the other types mentioned and find I like Sorby and Wagner the best.
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
I made a Knurling tool with two opposing wheels . One on each end of the tool and all you do is flip it to get a crosshatch pattern. I found the knurling on wood not deep enough to get the pattern I wanted. I have all the other types mentioned and find I like Sorby and Wagner the best.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much , so instead of the Double-Wheel Lathe knurling Tool for metal (that is basically the same principle you did with opposite wheel ) the WAGNER texturizing tool would be a better option?
wagner isn’t available but this it the alternative that is in Amazon
please i would like to know your advice I’m planning to buy it this weekend.
 
Michael Perez said:
Thank you so much for sharing, very nice work.
The Wagner is out of stock, do you know if any of these options will work ? I always end buying mechanist tools for woodworking.
I’ll be very thankful with your advices and recommendations.

Click to expand...
Definitely DON'T get the double wheel - that's made for small diameter cylinders (like metal tool handles) where both wheels contact the surface at the same time. Even if you used one wheel at a time that tool is too bulky and probably won't fit in a lot of applications without touching where you don't want any design.

The single wheel tool has possibilities but some of those wheels may not give a pattern you are looking for.

Since the Wagner isn't available I would go with the Ron Brown. If you just push it straight in on a convex or straight surface - no problem!
I use the tool in several different ways (angled and on concave surfaces) and the body rubs the work when I don't want it to. That's why I grind down and bevel the handle so it is close to the pin. Hint - I found out the hard way - when punching out the pin, the holes are slightly different in size even though they look the same. So, if the pin doesn't want to come out reverse it and punch out from the other side. DAMHIKT!!! Three hands are helpful here. ;)
 
Tom Gall said:
Definitely DON'T get the double wheel - that's made for small diameter cylinders (like metal tool handles) where both wheels contact the surface at the same time. Even if you used one wheel at a time that tool is too bulky and probably won't fit in a lot of applications without touching where you don't want any design.

The single wheel tool has possibilities but some of those wheels may not give a pattern you are looking for.

Since the Wagner isn't available I would go with the Ron Brown. If you just push it straight in on a convex or straight surface - no problem!
I use the tool in several different ways (angled and on concave surfaces) and the body rubs the work when I don't want it to. That's why I grind down and bevel the handle so it is close to the pin. Hint - I found out the hard way - when punching out the pin, the holes are slightly different in size even though they look the same. So, if the pin doesn't want to come out reverse it and punch out from the other side. DAMHIKT!!! Three hands are helpful here. ;)
Click to expand...
huge thank you, for your time and recommendations.I’ll go for that one ,I’ll try it and I know if it doesn’t want to go I know I have to grind it but honestly don’t like doing it but if there‘s no alternative I’ll be very happy grinding it.
have a very nice weekend and thank you again it was really helpful
 
Michael Perez said:
Thanks so much , so instead of the Double-Wheel Lathe knurling Tool for metal (that is basically the same principle you did with opposite wheel ) the WAGNER texturizing tool would be a better option?
wagner isn’t available but this it the alternative that is in Amazon
please i would like to know your advice I’m planning to buy it this weekend.
Click to expand...
Ron Browns tool is basically the same as Wagner and I would use the terms interchangeably . When using this tool you will need to press firmly. It will not skate across the wood but must be pressed in for each width you want til you reach the size embellishment you want. a friend showed me that you can turn it to about 45 degree angle and create a line on tops , then color that line for a "dotted" ring. Just remember it is not a cutter .
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
Ron Browns tool is basically the same as Wagner and I would use the terms interchangeably . When using this tool you will need to press firmly. It will not skate across the wood but must be pressed in for each width you want til you reach the size embellishment you want. a friend showed me that you can turn it to about 45 degree angle and create a line on tops , then color that line for a "dotted" ring. Just remember it is not a cutter .
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, yes I understand it works more like a stamp that marks its patter. Now I feel more confident buying the RB.
have a nice sunday
 
Michael Perez said:
huge thank you, for your time and recommendations.I’ll go for that one ,I’ll try it and I know if it doesn’t want to go I know I have to grind it but honestly don’t like doing it but if there‘s no alternative I’ll be very happy grinding it.
have a very nice weekend and thank you again it was really helpful
Click to expand...
I don't know if it has been mentioned anywhere else in this post - but, there is no bearing on these tools, so you need to use a drop or two of light machine oil on the shaft (i.e. "3in1") initially and then occasionally afterwards. Run the wheel against some scrap and wipe of the excess off a few times so the oil doesn't get on your work. Also, because there is no bearing it is important to run the lathe at a slower speed than when turning your object.
 
Tom Gall said:
I don't know if it has been mentioned anywhere else in this post - but, there is no bearing on these tools, so you need to use a drop or two of light machine oil on the shaft (i.e. "3in1") initially and then occasionally afterwards. Run the wheel against some scrap and wipe of the excess off a few times so the oil doesn't get on your work. Also, because there is no bearing it is important to run the lathe at a slower speed than when turning your object.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, just yesterday saw a video in YouTube of Wagner using oil and I was wondering if it could interfere with the finishing, thanks so much for the advice.I’ll use WD40 or vistony that is odorless (Peruvian brand).
What speed would you recommend for small pieces like pens, key holder, bottle opener and small boxes? My lowest speed is 250.
Have a nice Sunday
 
Michael Perez said:
Thank you so much, just yesterday saw a video in YouTube of Wagner using oil and I was wondering if it could interfere with the finishing, thanks so much for the advice.I’ll use WD40 or vistony that is odorless (Peruvian brand).
What speed would you recommend for small pieces like pens, key holder, bottle opener and small boxes? My lowest speed is 250.
Have a nice Sunday
Click to expand...
WD40 might be a little too thin - but I've never tried it. Might have to be applied more often. I can usually tell when it needs a little lube by rotating the wheel with my finger - not that often, really.
Speed? ... don't know. I have a dial for speed control. High speed about 11:30 o'clock (2000 rpm ?) ... for knurling I usually turn it down to around 4:00 to 6:00 o'clock for small work (depending on inner/outer position). Experience will tell you after about five minutes of using the tool. Hope that helps.
 
This is quite easy on a rose engine. The Flute Master Spiral Master will probably also work.
 
I looked in my photo file and found this with examples of tools we have discussed. The outer ring is Sorby Spiral Master, then Decorating Elf, and the inside is Wagner. On the purple plate the outside two Wagner and the rest Sorby.IMG_4191.JPGIMG_7220.JPG
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
I looked in my photo file and found this with examples of tools we have discussed. The outer ring is Sorby Spiral Master, then Decorating Elf, and the inside is Wagner. On the purple plate the outside two Wagner and the rest Sorby.View attachment 56935View attachment 56937
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for taking the time and sharing your work,it’s very helpful for taking my decision.
According to the advices I’ve received I’d prefer the Wagner but since it not available I’ll go for the Ron Browns.
 
Hello, thank you very much to everyone for the time and all the advices I have received, it really helped me to take my decision, I’ve already placed my order for the RB 1/4 12 tpi.
When I receive my tool that is going to be approximately in 3 weeks I’ll be posting my impressions and showing some of the work as Dean Center suggested providing comparison, I’ll be posting at least swatches of RB1/4 12 tpi
thank you again and best wishes.
 
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