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What to use on spalted wood as a finish that won't heavily discolor?

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I did a bit of searching and couldn't come up with a clear answer. I have a spalted maple vessel with patches of fairly heavy "punk". I'm not talking about the best practice on how to cut the wood cleanly when I say the word finish. I'm talking about products after the item is finished and sanded.

I hear that oils will discolor which makes sense as they'll suck into punky areas much more than non-punky. I have a friend that suggested "tried n true" as well as an acrylic fixative but i'd love to hear other opinions. I'm wondering if a couple coats of blonde shellac as a base under an oil would work well. I have zero experience with spalted woods so there ya go.

Thanks in advance for any input you might be able to provide.
 
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If I were to use shellac as a basecoat under anything, I would use shellac seal-coat. I do believe seal-coat has been de-waxed. I use shellac 90% of the time, on punky or soft wood, I soak it with seal-coat first then let it dry before applying final finish. I try to hit it pretty fast to help prevent some warping/cracking but still get some. I have not tried it under any oil base so can't give you a good answer there.
 
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I watched an online demo by Seri Robinson last year and she recommended not using a finish due to the issues of uneven absorption you mention.
 
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In my experience oils "muddy" the zone lines if the wood is punky. Best luck so far has been lacquer or shellac. I have a can of artist fixative but haven't experimented with it yet. It's supposed to add a protective coating but not show as a finish. I don't feel it's a waste of time or finish to experiment on the rough piece. I'll go as far as sanding and finishing a section of the rough piece just to make sure I'm headed in the right direction. I have learned my lesson about experimenting with finishes on a finished piece... The worst part is, I'll probably learn it again...
 
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"Heavily discolor" is really not definitive enough. We all have our own thoughts with these types of descriptors. If you have some pics of what is too much and what is just right it would help. As far as imparting the least amount of color to the wood, it depends on the look and gloss level desired.

> spray fixative, it seemed next to nothing color wise. It leaves a matte gloss. Long term color shift unknown
> nc lacquer, minimal color on application, several gloss levels available, long term will yellow
> CAB Acrylic lacquer (solvent based) - minimal color on application, several gloss levels available, long term stays clear - that was its design goal
> Parfix 3408 - minimal color on application, hi gloss only, can be rubbed to desired gloss, long term stays clear
> blo - blotches a lot, very yellowing, long dry time, can be rubbed to desired gloss
> poly varnish - blotches a bit less than blo, bit less yellowing vs blo, faster drying. can be rubbed to desired gloss
> Zinsser Sealcoat - blotches some, does cause some coloring. Applied in many thin coats to seal it lessens the coloring

I have had good luck using the CAB Acrylic lacquer as a sealer, hand applied, thinned 1:1, light sanding, poly over the top. It lessens the blotching and coloring. It could probably be hand applied by itself and buffed up, I just haven't tried it. As for oil or poly "muddying" spalted punky wood zone lines, I don't see it, but maybe you can. When applied there is a fuzziness, but after curing and buffing I don't see it.

I took the attached pics today at the same time with the same lighting and camera settings. They were all spalted, punky wood. The 1st is maple with Parfix 3408, the 2nd is sycamore with a bunch of blo and then mw poly, the 3rd is sycamore with mw poly. The poly, alone and with blo, certainly yellowed the wood and created some blotchiness, but to my eye the clarity of the grain and markings is the same.

For smaller pieces, up to ~ 6" x 6" or so, Parfix is a good option. While it is a longer open time CA glue, there are still some limits on how much surface can be covered. Look up Mark Silay on utube if not familiar with it. For any size object, the CAB Acrylic lacquer will work. It depends on the type of finished look you want. For a fully filled glossy finish it needs to be sprayed and I know the sherwin williams stuff I use doesn't come in a spray can. There are probably some water based rattle can products that provide minimal to no coloring but I haven't worked with them. Water based stuff has other limitations that I don't like so I'm not too fond of them.
 

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I have used WRU-20 from chroma craft and it goes on clear without yellowing or heavily darkening the piece. It applies really well through an airbrush or you can use it like you would a wipe on poly. It will give the piece a bit of a sheen after a few coats with the airbrush or if you friction dry with a paper towel.
 

Randy Anderson

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Well, not to be contrary to the other advice but, I turn a fair amount of spalted and often punky wood and walnut oil is my go to finish. Never had it be an issue.
 
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Well, not to be contrary to the other advice but, I turn a fair amount of spalted and often punky wood and walnut oil is my go to finish. Never had it be an issue.
Hey, we're woodturners, which means we all do things differently. The next person to post will tell us how he uses a can of something he got 20 years ago from an Air Force maintenance facility where they worked on the SR-71 Blackbirds. We got more options than Dalmatians got spots!
 
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Doug gave a good summary. BLO will definitely add an amber color. Shellac less so, but still some. I've done some shellac friction polish finishes on ambrosia and the look is beautiful, but it was a lot of work due to the surface area.

Another option is epoxy coatings. I just bought some Total Boat High Performance to try as a top coat.

I believe there some special CA-glue-like products out there made just for finishing. Not sure if they off-gas like regular CA or not. I can't take those fumes!

I have only limited opportunities to use lacquer due to humidity and/or temperature, and I don't really like the look of the gloss lacquers. The archival lacquer in satin is pretty good though..... when the weather is right.

Most of the varnishes will impart some color change.
 
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I think that any penetrating type of oil will darken the colors of the wood. Never considered that a bad thing. Pretty much any surface type finish will do better at keeping the color as is. This would include most spray on types, though some will penetrate in a bit.

robo hippy
 
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I believe there some special CA-glue-like products out there made just for finishing. Not sure if they off-gas like regular CA or not. I can't take those fumes!

It was not developed just for finishing, but the Parfix 3408 is a CA glue with a 40 second longer open time and different chemistry that does not out gas or smoke like the CA's we are used to. It may have a bit of odor to it but I haven't noticed when using it.
 
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Thanks for all the input. As there was some figure I went with danish oil over shellac. Worked great, looks great, i'm happy. I now can file all this info away for next time under different circumstances.
 

Kevin Jesequel

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It was me who recommended to Tom the T&T, specifically their varnish oil, which has the viscosity of honey. This piece was all punky below the zone line. I wasn't going to oil it because I didn't want it to get muddy, but funnily enough, it was Tom who convinced me to oil it. I applied the T&T varnish oil very thinly and wiped it off immediately. I was very happy with the result.
 

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