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What to use on Cocobolo..?

Joined
Jan 28, 2005
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Location
Kansas City, Missouri
I have started to turn out Escrima sticks for my son, (it's jut a long straight stick, like a night stick) and have tried using some Cocobolo.

I would like to put a hard polyurethane finish on it but the polyurethane just wont take. It wont cure, harden. It just stays tacky indefinitely.

What am I doing wrong? Is there something better to use? 😕

Thanks

Austin
 
Cocobolo is a very oily wood and some finishes just don't do well on it...
one solution is to wipe it down with acetone before putting a coat of shellac on it as a sealer and then the finish of your choice...
On pens and peppermills I use a CA finish that dries hard and clear....
I don't know what this item is used for, but if it is subject to hard use, the poly or CA finishes will crack and be real hard to fix....
Another solution might be to seal with shellac and use a lacquer finish... lacquer is easier to refinish than either of the other two..
But in any case I recommend wiping down with acetone to remove the surface oils...
Edit in:
Just did a search on escrima sticks and found out they are a martial arts weapon... considering the use, you might want to just sand smooth and use an oil finish like Watco or a 50/50 BLO\Mineral Spirits mix, let dry and buff it... at least then refinishing will be real simple...
 
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Oily cocobolo

I am with Tom on this one. For the intended use, probably no finish at all, which would be my first choice, or oil finish like Watco.

What I found works well for me on oily woods is very much what Tom recommended. Sand to 400, and wipe with DNA (alcohol, not the genetic molecules!), and apply a couple coats of shellac, sanding lightly after the first one. Then sand through the fine grits (600-2000) until the desired amount of gloss is obtained. Then wipe on 2-3 coats of MinWax PolyCrylic.
 
Thanks oldgriz, Fred in NC.

I hadn't thought about the repair issue, that makes a lot of sense, he is pretty hard on them and repair WILL definitely be an issue.


Thank you both for the help.

Austin
 
I'd vote for the no finish at all approach. Cocobolo will take a mirror-like shine with no finish. Just sand up to the 1000+ grit and then burnish with shavings or a piece of paper bag. If you want to harden it further, something like Watco tung oil or even BLO, though you're gonna have to give it a long time to dry. Final buff out with carnuba wax for a nice glow.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Dietrich
 
Dietrich,

I am new to this stuff and so please bear with me thru some stupid questions.
What is "BLO", I have used Tung Oil and really like the finish it gives. I tried to go for the "shiny" finish since that is what my son liked.
I'll try the sanding (up to the 1000 and up), currently I haven't gone anywhere near that fine (300).
How would the Carnuba be applied? Could that be done on the lathe? Is it better to do that off the lathe by hand?
Again sorry for the question but I'm trying to learn this, and I want to do it right.

Thanks

Austin
 
Austin,

Are you aware that Cocobola is one of the exotic woods with oils that people can be or become very sensitized to causing anything from a breaking out like poison ivy to very severe allergic reactions. One of the main ways that this oil can enter the body is through the sweat glands. If these are going to be used during a hard, sweaty workout then you definitely want to seal the oil out using a finish. I use a good bit of Cocobola and usually finish my work with Shellac 2 pound mix/Denatured Alcohol/BLO (boiled linseed oil) - mixed in thirds. I put on several coats with the piece turning on the lathe drying with friction. I then put a couple of coats of good hard wax (such as one of the Hut wax sticks) and buff. You will want to watch and make sure you rewax as he uses the sticks and that he does not wear through the finish.

I know this is a beautiful wood but I would not use it for this type of an item where someone would be sweating heavily while using. I have heard of one turner that was sued due to a duck call made of Cocobola that the purchaser did not keep waxed and he reacted to the oil coming out of the wood onto his lips.

Wilford
 
Thank you Wilford, thats a good point.

I don't use the sticks myself, but I am sure that my son does get sweaty when he works out. I don't do to much of the sweaty workouts anymore, it just keeps getting tougher every year!

If you don't mind my asking, what do you make with the Cocobolo?

Austin
 
I would just buff with a wheel, finish with Carnauba wax. I made some "chucks" out of Cocobolo and have seen nightsticks too.

A buffed finish is easily repairable. Given the environment, anything you use will rubb off quickly.

BLO is Boiled Linseed Oil
 
Thanks Steve.

I bet those chucks are nice, I had never turned anything out of Cocobolo before this and this was only because my son is a lot like me and he really likes dark grainy woods.

I did make some Kubotons (sp?) for him out of Bocote, they were nice.

Austin
 
Cocobolo

Austin,

General rule is that there are two types of people in the world, those that are allergic to cocobolo and those who will be after being exposed to it. As a sensitizer, the effect increases over time. Your boy will need to be mindful that although fine at the start, he is due to have some reaction down the road. Not the best choice for a set of "working" sticks, but great for trophies. Know a well known turner who can't even eat walnuts (let alone work the wood) after becoming hypersensitized to the Juglone protein after turning so much of it. 🙁
 
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I read something about that a bit back in the thread but it just now clicked. I didn't pick up on what he was saying before that it will accumulate more or less. I didn't realize that........I guess I do need to look for something else a little less toxic.
It figures, the really pretty stuff is bad for you....

Any suggestions for a replacement? Something that is dark and grainy like the cocobolo.

Austin
 
Austin,

Suggest you look into some American Ironwood or African Blackwood and the ebonies of course; they make woodwind instruments out of them with no effect on the musicians. Not all the tropicals are toxic either. I haven't heard "bad stuff" about purple heart and it will turn almost black in time, but can't tell you about its other properties and suitability for sticks. Lignum Vitae is very durable and won't need any finish, but its also very heavy; might not be a good option. Also check on Wenge.

I seem to remember a chart somewhere that listed the toxicity and other properties of many woods. I'll see if I can hunt it up and give you a link.

Mark
 
Hi Austin,

You asked what I make with Cocobola. I made one pepper grinder and salt shaker for the wife, swore after that I would not make another. I burned up 2 good fostner bits trying to drill the pepper mill out! I was worried about the oil transfering to the salt and pepper and we did see some discoloration on the first couple of fillings. We would dump the salt and pepper corns out when we saw this and refill. After about 2-3 fillings it appeared the dry salt and pepper had pulled all of the oil they could out of the items, I take them every so often out to the shop and buff a coat of wax on them. I also have made several pens for adult members of the family. I give them with warning that they are to keep them waxed, not use them if sweaty (these are special desk pens) and keep them out of their mouths. Other then that I use it for special accents like finials.

I do take some special precautions for myself when using Cocobola. I make sure I have the shop cool enough that I will not start sweating. I wear a half face respirator under my face sheild with organic filters. I work it as the last item I will work on for that shop time and as soon as I vacuum up I go to the house and change and shower.

I too would suggest looking at Wenge. It is a wood that will split off easy when turning but should be fine once you turn it and put on a good polyurethane finish. I just made some pens out of Wenge and they came out beautiful with a black colored grain showing. Make sure and work from the center towards the ends with your tools.

Wilford
 
Thank you Rick-U.
I guess you can find pretty much whatever you want if you just try. For some reason the web is usually the last place I look, I've got to get past that....

Wilford,

I bet those were some nice pieces, Cocobolo is such a pretty wood. I'll do a check on some Wenge, I don't think I've ever seen any, at least not that I can remember.

Thank you Gentlemen for all the information/help, it is appreciated.

Austin
 
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