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What is this glue......?

D

Doug Rasmussen

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Took a screen grab off Youtube. I see a number of Youtubers (or may be the same prolific guy) using this type glue. With the light tan color it looks to me like my favorite, Weldwood Plastic Resin glue. It came as a powder to be mixed with water. It's rigid when cured, no flex like Titebond. Not water proof though.

I did a number of items from furniture to turned objects with Weldwood glue some from 30+ years ago, never a glue failure. . Then about 10 years ago I ran out and managed to find it at only one distributor in a gallon container. Probably the formaldehyde content is what killed it off.

Anyone remember it?


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Is it a form of hide glue? If so there are some more current versions that have the same capabilities as older formulations. Titebond even makes a version that doesn't require a glue pot.

Gregory
 
I built 30-40 end grain cutting boards 40+ years ago using it.
Last I heard is they are all still in use. It was a light brown powder that was mixed with water and was best used in a very warm shop.
 
It could be epoxy. What's he doing there, coating the surface? I've never seen uf glue being used other than for lamination whereas epoxy is used for sealing, coating and filling as well. Powdered resin glue is not meant for thick buildups as it would tend to shrink and craze. Post a link to the video, maybe that will help.
 
Kevin Jenness said:
It could be epoxy. What's he doing there, coating the surface? I've never seen uf glue being used other than for lamination whereas epoxy is used for sealing, coating and filling as well. Powdered resin glue is not meant for thick buildups as it would tend to shrink and craze. Post a link to the video, maybe that will help.
Click to expand...
I thought his glue might be a variation of the Weldwood powder I used for years. Looks the same except a bit lighter in color. I didn't save a link to the video. It was just one of many videos the guy has posted. Pretty sure the poster is Asian, a good deal of his videos are in an open air work area using a Japanese combination saw/jointer/ planer working with large, thick glue ups. I don't recall exactly what he was making, possibly a base for a table.

From high school on Weldwood was the only glue I used except for a couple sailboat builds using a water proof resorcinol glue that's expensive. The only negative I've read about the Weldwood was not to use it for laminations where flexibility was needed like a bamboo fishing pole.

Most of his videos he slathers on more glue than I think is necessary, but likewise I feel the same about the amount of Titebond some users apply. Once you clamp the excess squeezes out anyway.
 
PPR is good stuff for veneer in particular, very stiff glueline, relatively long working time, high moisture resistance. Downsides are limited shelf life once opened, formaldehyde content and requires curing temps > 65*F.
 
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My understanding is that urea/formaldehyde glues need very close-fitting joints. Not gap-filling at all. Also, they aren't flexible at all like polyurethane adhesives. But, they don't creep like PVA adhesives can. Not reversible as hide glues are.
 
John Snow said:
My understanding is that urea/formaldehyde glues need very close-fitting joints. Not gap-filling at all. Also, they aren't flexible at all like polyurethane adhesives. But, they don't creep like PVA adhesives can. Not reversible as hide glues are.
Click to expand...
Normally urea/formaldehyde glues are gap filling.
I recently did a test using Cascamite among others, posted in Facebook "Segmented bowl turning"
My first post in this group was about what glue you used. Most people including me seemed to use PVA-glue, like Titebond. I was a little curious of the strength of different glues for gluing end grain, so I did a little not so scientific test with three glues:
PVA
Cascamite, urea formaldehyde glue
Epoxy
I did two tests with each:
good clamping pressure
gap of about 0.5 mm
All glue joints were allowed to cure over night.
As comparison I also tested a piece glued together from several short pieces of side grain. All test pieces were birch with a section of 10x50 mm, with 250 mm between supports. I did the testing in my regular glue press, with a bathroom scale for measuring force to break.

Load to break:
PVA 41 kg
Cascamite 29 kg
Epoxy 17 kg

Sidegrain PVA, glue did not break, but the wood at 10 kg

Load to break joints with a 0.5 mm gap:
PVA 28 kg
Cascamite 24 kg
Epoxy 29 kg
Conclusion
End grain joints are not as weak as often said. PVA is not regarded as gap filling, but still did well also with gap.

Technical data sheet for Cascamite: https://www.marineindustrial.co.uk/...e-aa0901159096/Wood_Glue_Cascamite_TDS_HF.pdf
 
I used to buy UF/plastic resin glue from Amazon, haven't needed any lately. I've used it for veneering, and for wooden bows. It or similar is commonly used in the laminated wood bow world, so I don't understand the comments about it not being good where flexibility is required.
 
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