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What is Antique Oil?

K

KEW

Joined
Jun 9, 2005
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Location
North Metro Atlanta
Would it be classed as a varnish or something else?
I think it is a combination of varnish and Linseed Oil.

Also wondering about shelf life. I have some which is about 1 year old in a sealable clear plastic bottle. It is starting to gel. Is there a way to use it. The balance is in a can which has remained sealed since I poured some into the bottle. Is it likely to be gelled as well (not so easy to tell in the can unless a lump pours out)?

Thanks for the help!
 
Last edited:
Wipe-on varnish. Check the solids proportion and you'll see it's somewhere between high-test and lo-cal "Danish" oil. Resin is alkyd, but I'm not sure if the oil is soy or flax. It's pretty warm looking compared to the poly resin, making it a great finish for cherry or walnut. My dad used it and 209 a lot, and after forty years on tables in their living room it is looking fine.

Never had it last more than a year or so after initial opening, even with adding marbles. What starts to gel and separate leaves the oil and thinner behind. Which isn't much of a finish.
 
"Antique oil" is really a class rather than a specific formula. All are wipe on finishes and only water resistant, not water proof. They do leave a warm finish that I prefer over poly types. Fine Woodworking classified MinWax's version to be a wipe on varnish equal to Watco's Danish Oil. Olympic's version is totally different and even has an unpleasant odor. I've also used Bush oil that I believe is at least equal to MinWax. Just like tung oil (which is waterproof), a container with air will cause the oil to gel within months if not weeks. I repackage quart or larger containers of both into 8 oz squeeze bottles from here http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin41.html, and keep extra air out. Next to no wastage this way.
 
Antique Oil can last a long time... if.

KEW said:
Great info!
Thanks!
Click to expand...

I use marbles to bring the level back to the very top, after I've removed some from the can. Then I put the lid back on VERY tight (I have to use channel locks to remove the lid).
If I ever have any finish that gels a little bit, I add just a little bit (1/2 to 3/4 oz) of a proper thinner, and shake for 2 or 3 minutes in a paint shaker. Then strain the finish through a double layer of panty hose. You may have to change to a clean round quart can to put it into a shaker, but it works for me.
In fact, I think a can of Antique Oil that gelled a little turned out better after this little thin-shake-strain procedure... it wasn't as sticky as before. Maybe some of the goo I removed by straining was some of the alkyd resins????
 
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